TinyMight / TM 2

Marlox

Well-Known Member
Hey all,
I finally got my small bubbler from DHGate ...
I don't know if you can buy such metric-glass in your Country, but if so:
 

slick

Well-Known Member
So kind of a happy accident: when installing the cooling unit (and some boro balls) I accidentally pushed in the screen of the CU. I was in a rush so I ended up just using it that way. To my pleasant surprise using the bottom half of the cooling unit as a chamber seems to give more even abv then my wpa with basket screen.

Possible explanations: 1) I hit it natively at a lower temp resulting in naturally more even abv. 2) The lip of the chamber introduces a little air movement resulting in less of a hotspot. 3) It's not more even and the TM is just doing its job too well.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
The only thing I think could use some improvement is a better connection adapter as I only got the 3 in 1 one with the glass screen with my TM order. It works fine, its just that the biggest 18mm taper is quite small on it. around 1/8", so it kind of wobbles a bit in the female connection point of my bubbler. That and the small glass screen only holds enough material for about 2 generously large vape hits before its spent.

Yeah this is why I only use that three in one specifically to do whole nugs or chunky grind with the glass screen, pretty much always using 18 mm backwards RBT stems otherwise although I finally got a 14 mm one from with my HI now too, photos to come!

I'm looking on the TM shop now and have added two 18mm connection adapters and 2 basket screens to my cart. With the shipping the total comes to around $54 USD plus the 2 ish weeks it'll take for them to get to US from Finland. Does anybody have any US based alternatives that work just as well for a connection piece that I could potentially get cheaper and faster? I recall reading about the splinter stem works backwards but not sure if I can get one of those separately

Yeah that is still the simplest, why I suggest getting both with the TM originally, getting two is a good idea, but yes you can use the backward splinter stems. I'm not sure where you can find them in the US for sale now, but you could post that you are looking for them, on EntExchange and classifieds here? I bet plenty of people have spares they do not use

Alternatively yeah email Alan@toasty-top.com if you want to order a 14 mm WPA stem, he does not have 18 however (ditanium mouthpiece is also only 14 mm, like the rogue wax works' titanium lined acrylic mouthpiece) so otherwise if you can find 16 mm diameter stems with an 18 mm tip they will work, like from mountain glass maybe, but they will be much longer if you don't cut them down... Ask vgoodiez maybe?
 
Which accessories/spare parts should I stock up on when I buy it? I'm getting the extra long cooling stem - how often does the rimmed basket screen need to be replaced?
 
Purrito Purrpants,

AndreG

New Member
Anyone with Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh - 15A battery?
I bought it because it appears on the official website of TM. But the battery says not to use in vaporizers.
use in vape.
 
AndreG,

Pepeluis33

Well-Known Member
How's going with the new German boards? is the button much stronger attached than before?

Anyone with Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh - 15A battery?
I bought it because it appears on the official website of TM. But the battery says not to use in vaporizers.
use in vape.
Totally safe. Ignore the message, some brands just doesn't want to be involved into vaping.
 

AndreG

New Member
How's going with the new German boards? is the button much stronger attached than before?


Totally safe. Ignore the message, some brands just doesn't want to be involved into vaping.

Thank you for your reply.

I'm pretty paranoid about these batteries. There are times when I think they could explode at any moment.

I usually vape 2-3 charges, about 40-50 min. So it's almost impossible for any problem to happen, right?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Thank you for your reply.

I'm pretty paranoid about these batteries. There are times when I think they could explode at any moment.

I usually vape 2-3 charges, about 40-50 min. So it's almost impossible for any problem to happen, right?

It's not about your usage of the TM, but yes just try to not worry about it, you are definitely being paranoid! If you want to put your mind at ease just read the battery safety thread here for proper cell care tips
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Thank you for your reply.

I'm pretty paranoid about these batteries. There are times when I think they could explode at any moment.

I usually vape 2-3 charges, about 40-50 min. So it's almost impossible for any problem to happen, right?

It’s smart to respect the power in any lithium battery, but educating yourself on care and usage will eliminate “paranoia”!

Link in my SIG, to Battery University is a good place to start.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Personally I think if you are cautious and treat 18650s with respect they are not really that dangerous. Only buy them from reputable sources (not Amazon) to be sure they are not rewraps, keep them from shorting by using battery cases and not putting them in your pocket with coins or keys, and you should be fine. If you get any cuts in the sleeve that surrounds them, replace the sleeve. They are really cheap and are usually called battery wraps.
I have never seen an 18650 vent in person, just in videos when people were testing them to see what would happen. The clip on the link below tells you how Fire Marshal Mike feels about them...
 

Shivo23

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone... I had a problem with my TinyMight, which has already been described (and solved) here in the forum. It also appears in the manufacturer's FAQ.

But even if it is solved, I would like to understand the reason. Unfortunately, I have no knowledge about electronics and hope someone can explain it to me.

The problem was that the device suddenly no longer produced any vapor. The device got warm as usual, but only warm air came into the mouth when drawing. Since the oven was also getting warm, I didn't understand what was going on.

After I loosened the bottom screw as described by the manufacturer and wiggled it a little, the problem was solved and I'm getting thick vapor again!

But what's the problem here? And why can it be fixed with a little wobbling? I dont get it...
 

zatonic

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone... I had a problem with my TinyMight, which has already been described (and solved) here in the forum. It also appears in the manufacturer's FAQ.

But even if it is solved, I would like to understand the reason. Unfortunately, I have no knowledge about electronics and hope someone can explain it to me.

The problem was that the device suddenly no longer produced any vapor. The device got warm as usual, but only warm air came into the mouth when drawing. Since the oven was also getting warm, I didn't understand what was going on.

After I loosened the bottom screw as described by the manufacturer and wiggled it a little, the problem was solved and I'm getting thick vapor again!

But what's the problem here? And why can it be fixed with a little wobbling? I dont get it...
The contacts from battery to board aren’t plugged / soldered together like most other electronics. Just contacts that touch. So over time as materials settle, things can loosen or get jolted in the slightest which cause a weak / short connection.
 
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Shivo23

Well-Known Member
The contacts from battery to board aren’t plugged together like most other electronics. Just contacts that touch. So over time as materials settle, things can loosen or get jolted in the slightest which cause a weak / short connection.
ah ok. thanks!
 
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Shivo23,
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Marlox

Well-Known Member
The problem is mainly that the aluminum surface oxidizes over time (when exposed to air), this increases the contact resistance and prevents enough current from flowing.
That "Wiggling" with the screw loosened is supposed to scrape off some of the oxide and thus make the connection low resistance again.
What used to be done in Germany for aluminum contacts is to mix Vaseline with some crushed tungsten carbide.
This is a combination of conductive grinding dust in an air barrier paste. The tungsten carbide particles bore through the oxide layer and maintain the contact, and the Vasline largely prevents atmospheric oxygen from reaching the bare aluminum surfaces and causing them to oxidize again.
The abrasive content also helps the "wiggle" to break up any oxides better.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
The problem is mainly that the aluminum surface oxidizes over time (when exposed to air), this increases the contact resistance and prevents enough current from flowing.
That "Wiggling" with the screw loosened is supposed to scrape off some of the oxide and thus make the connection low resistance again.
What used to be done in Germany for aluminum contacts is to mix Vaseline with some crushed tungsten carbide.
This is a combination of conductive grinding dust in an air barrier paste. The tungsten carbide particles bore through the oxide layer and maintain the contact, and the Vasline largely prevents atmospheric oxygen from reaching the bare aluminum surfaces and causing them to oxidize again.
The abrasive content also helps the "wiggle" to break up any oxides better.

Try a CONDUCTIVE LUBRICANT.....
 
RustyOldNail,

zatonic

Well-Known Member
The problem is mainly that the aluminum surface oxidizes over time (when exposed to air), this increases the contact resistance and prevents enough current from flowing.
That "Wiggling" with the screw loosened is supposed to scrape off some of the oxide and thus make the connection low resistance again.
What used to be done in Germany for aluminum contacts is to mix Vaseline with some crushed tungsten carbide.
This is a combination of conductive grinding dust in an air barrier paste. The tungsten carbide particles bore through the oxide layer and maintain the contact, and the Vasline largely prevents atmospheric oxygen from reaching the bare aluminum surfaces and causing them to oxidize again.
The abrasive content also helps the "wiggle" to break up any oxides better.
This makes sense. Then are we all to be doomed with future wiggling?
 
zatonic,
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