TinyMight / TM 2

BrianTL

Westchester, NY
Just FYI, if your TM was working well, and it has subsequently stopped working well, and you did not see an unusual light show with constant vibration, then your problem is unlikely to be resolved by a Temperature Range Adjustment (TA). Your problem is likely a contact issue.

Or oring sealing issues. Keep in mind there are 3 distinct types of orings used in the Tinymight: those on the cooling unit (if you use one), one to hold the stem, and one under the top plate that sits on top of the inner glass cylinder. The latter two are critical for optimal operation. Also check your battery and the contacts to insure they’re clean. Then the contact under the top plate as mentioned already recently. The recalibration should only be used as a last resort if one has tried all other things and your unit is running too cold or hot. I’ve never tried the recalibration (too chicken shit); don’t get much vapor below 5 with my year-old TM but it works well above that and I’ve accounted and adjusted for that. Life is good, what can I say... :peace:

Or a battery on its way out... can't skip past that as a possibility either!

I agree though. A once-working unit shouldn't be recalibrated as a "fix." These dont just fall out of calibration...a change in performance is an indicator of a problem somewhere else. Not the heat-output relative to the dials position.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Or oring sealing issues. Keep in mind there are 3 distinct types of orings used in the Tinymight: those on the cooling unit (if you use one), one to hold the stem, and one under the top plate that sits on top of the inner glass cylinder. The latter two are critical for optimal operation. Also check your battery and the contacts to insure they’re clean. Then the contact under the top plate as mentioned already recently. The recalibration should only be used as a last resort if one has tried all other things and your unit is running too cold or hot. I’ve never tried the recalibration (too chicken shit); don’t get much vapor below 5 with my year-old TM but it works well above that and I’ve accounted and adjusted for that. Life is good, what can I say... :peace:
Yes, this is true, it could be orings if you have taken it apart. I was really referring to folks who have lost heat they previously had who have not done anything that might have contributed to the problem. That is part of why I might discourage people from disassembling their unit to clean it when they first get it. I never took mine apart until I needed to fix the haptic feedback, for example.
And yes, to me, the TA repair is the BFH approach and probably not the fix for most peoples low heat problems.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Post number 8139 in this thread.

Yes, those are the same instructions I got. And to make it easier to find, that post is on page 326. The warning on the post is important as this will not solve contact issues which is the main reason for poor vapor production. It changes the whole range of temps the device can produce so it is particularly helpful if you wish to use concentrates in the TM.

I only looked into it as a way to find my own posts where I answered someone’s question, and can quickly post a link, to someone new, asking the same questions. You can add a short keyword and description to the bookmark you are about to save. It’s not perfect, but personally I don’t have the time to respond to repeat questions with a bunch of new text.
Good looking out. And just in case anyone doesn't know: the date and time at the top of any post links to that post directly. That's a handy way to share something from a while back and the link preview looks nice too
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Yes quality greens is the N1 thing if anyone want a good experience, i only stir 1, max 2 times between 4-6 hits, i usually dont micro dose :cool:and i use around .20ish +-, i use Dzoinp mod since i saw it here, for me solved 2 problems, stirring and the darker circle, IMO putting the load a bit further away from the heat source is an upgrade. I really thought Ville would use it since its easy to do, just add that extra screen...:mental:
I got some rubber caps that fit great and i will do a rubber version of the Cork Mod i just need the right thing to stir... i will share the pic once i got it.
Cheers
:cool:

I believe that the results you get with the mod are closer to your ideal results than the stock setup, and that seems to be true for other users of the mod too, but there would probably be a lot of people mad the load being farther away from the heater too. Especially if they couldn’t mod it back.

I do think they should switch screens though, and/or the screen holder to make it harder for it to get pushed into the heater.

Adding an extra screen without the extra space would be another good option for adding diffusion and keeping the heat more even.

I don’t have a TM to try it with, but I think someone should give it a shot. It would waste less of your heat. :)

I’m sure the mod is good though, so I’m glad @dzoinp posted it and that it’s helped you guys. It’s a great adjustment any TM user can make, I just don’t think it’s the best improvement that the manufacturer could make.
 

Pepeluis33

Well-Known Member
Hey, I've been following this thread for a while because I would like to pick one, but too many red flags. Is company solving the issues in the latest units? Or still too many issues to deal with?
 
Pepeluis33,

passenger

is this thing on?
I am interested in the TM and was that from the start. It checks a lot of boxes for me but I can not deny the red flags as well. Is a revised version planned for the near future? How good is the CS inbetween?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I am interested in the TM and was that from the start. It checks a lot of boxes for me but I can not deny the red flags as well. Is a revised version planned for the near future? How good is the CS inbetween?

No there is no revised version plan, it has been streamlined I suppose over the past year, I have one from December 2019 and just got another one last month... if you read recently you will see that CS has vastly improved as well, just buy one already :tup:
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
Yeah i contacted them today, i dont want to open my vape too, if you do the heater calibration let me know if it Is better
You are mistaken to think you have to....or even need to do this!

You need to learn the vape first to understand it is probably just your technique, flower, or simple other reason your brand new unit is not giving you results you want.
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
I am interested in the TM and was that from the start. It checks a lot of boxes for me but I can not deny the red flags as well. Is a revised version planned for the near future? How good is the CS inbetween?

I try to keep an open mind when it comes to CS from another country. What is normal here may not be else where and then you add the communication complication. While it took a while, I was extremely happy with my recent CS inquiry and experience.

Once we got past the communication hurdle and we were on the same page for issues and how we arrived here, he not only sent a full new unit, but made up for the mistake in the past and then some!

I also have a Dec '19 unit to compare this new one (arrived yesterday) to and I'm in the same place as the others that have been able to compare.

The fit and finish of the newer unit is noticeably better. Heat up time and functionality is just like I remember, outstanding. I think this one is running hotter than my first, I'm clearing bowls on 3-5 in lieu of 5-7.

It's a very versatile, powerful vape in a great form factor. Don't let early production unit woes hold you back from enjoying a great vaporizer that has ironed out the little bumps. Many of the recent posts sound more panicked in nature than actual problems (not all, but many).
 

Saerdna

Svapatore seriale
You are mistaken to think you have to....or even need to do this!

You need to learn the vape first to understand it is probably just your technique, flower, or simple other reason your brand new unit is not giving you results you want.
Yeah i know i have to learn the vape, but i'm not satisfied, i tryed different technique but the result seem to be the same, also the avb if i finish the session on 10 its not that dark. I'm in italy so the flower for sure are not top shelf from Ca but in my tubo evic or even in my glow i can get better results in term of vapor production
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Yeah i know i have to learn the vape, but i'm not satisfied, i tryed different technique but the result seem to be the same, also the avb if i finish the session on 10 its not that dark. I'm in italy so the flower for sure are not top shelf from Ca but in my tubo evic or even in my glow i can get better results in term of vapor production

There are two main issues people run into with the TM. Power path and air leaks.

Both have been well discussed here, you can't read a page without mention but the basics are keeping all the viewable contact points clean. Battery lid and body threads, battery contact internally including making sure that the spring isn't compressed. Then it moves to the internal contacts, it seems those are better than they used to be, but can be somewhat problematic on some units.

The air leaks have been a lot of the small o-ring in the oven chamber at the top where the stem is inserted. There can be other places, but that is the first place to look.

Let's figure out which side of the fence we're probably fighting first......when you're on 10, and try to finish a load, does the body get warm or hot? That will tell us if you're heating but it's not getting to the load. If the body is staying cool, we're probably just a connection path issue.

I hope people remember, that while they are starting to produce these on a larger scale, they are still a hand assembled, artesian good. They sometimes come along with the inconsistencies that go along with handmade, artesian items.

It's been said before, but I'm in agreement, for most of the people on here having issues, the fix is NOT doing a calibrating adjustment to the heater.
 

Saerdna

Svapatore seriale
There are two main issues people run into with the TM. Power path and air leaks.

Both have been well discussed here, you can't read a page without mention but the basics are keeping all the viewable contact points clean. Battery lid and body threads, battery contact internally including making sure that the spring isn't compressed. Then it moves to the internal contacts, it seems those are better than they used to be, but can be somewhat problematic on some units.

The air leaks have been a lot of the small o-ring in the oven chamber at the top where the stem is inserted. There can be other places, but that is the first place to look.

Let's figure out which side of the fence we're probably fighting first......when you're on 10, and try to finish a load, does the body get warm or hot? That will tell us if you're heating but it's not getting to the load. If the body is staying cool, we're probably just a connection path issue.

I hope people remember, that while they are starting to produce these on a larger scale, they are still a hand assembled, artesian good. They sometimes come along with the inconsistencies that go along with handmade, artesian items.

It's been said before, but I'm in agreement, for most of the people on here having issues, the fix is NOT doing a calibrating adjustment to the heater.
I cleaned the battery lid and the bottom with ISO alredy, but i don't think is that my problem, maybe air leek at this point? The body when i vape on my tm get warm yes, i just finished a session on 10 and thats the result
 
Saerdna,

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
I cleaned the battery lid and the bottom with ISO alredy, but i don't think is that my problem, maybe air leek at this point? The body when i vape on my tm get warm yes, i just finished a session on 10 and thats the result

Have you verified this o-ring is in place?

check if you have this o-ring:

IMG-20200511-001056.jpg
 
Hey, I've been following this thread for a while because I would like to pick one, but too many red flags. Is company solving the issues in the latest units? Or still too many issues to deal with?

I can tell you my experience. When I did email about my unit not heating like it used it, I had a response within a week with the info attached at the bottom.

Also bought a unit for backup, that had issues, I emailed them and sent pics, had a response within a few days. I'm sending my unit in for repair and will let us know on here how it went.

------ from TM -----
Hello,

Well it sound like the battery is out of juice, try charging it for a
while and try again.

If that doesnt help try using the following steps:

1)check if the screen hasn't fallen on top of the heater, if so please
place it back in place.

2) Tighten the big screw at the bottom of the unit which can lead to a
better contact.

If these steps wont help then we advice you to check if the heater is
still in good shape by removing the glass stem , o-ring , metal
cylinder and the screen to have a better picture of the heater and if
the heater looks intact then follow the third step below:

3) remove the top panel carefully and you will find a bit of steel
coming out the heater chamber, try cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol
if there is some dirt and that can cause a better contact with the top
panel and you may add a small piece of aluminum foil to it as well.

4) Clean the battery cap.

Please update us if these steps solved the problem.

Kind regards,
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Looks like TM is recommending the same troubleshooting techniques that we are. Who is the egg here I wonder? :cool:

It's really all about how well the device is making contact. A failure at a contact point will lead to low power.

ADDED: I just wanted to be sure this from the above post was clear...

3) remove the top panel carefully and you will find a bit of steel
coming out the heater chamber, try cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol
if there is some dirt and that can cause a better contact with the top
panel and you may add a small piece of aluminum foil to it as well.

By this they are referring to the metal strip that provides the point of contact with the battery. And the piece of aluminum foil we are calling a shim to put under the strip to raise the contact point. Just for clarity.
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
If you haven't disassembled yours the orings are probably not the problem. Since you haven't had it long it would be unusual (but not impossible) for you to have contact problems. Has it ever worked well for you? You might try a different battery to be sure that isn't the issue. Also make sure the battery is fully charged.
 

Saerdna

Svapatore seriale
If you haven't disassembled yours the orings are probably not the problem. Since you haven't had it long it would be unusual (but not impossible) for you to have contact problems. Has it ever worked well for you? You might try a different battery to be sure that isn't the issue. Also make sure the battery is fully charged.
Alredy tryed to switch some batteries but its not the problem
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
So you haven't said if it ever worked well for you, but I am guessing that it hasn't. If I set mine on 10 and took normal hits I would combust for sure. If you are uncomfortable taking it apart to check contact points I think you are gonna have to send it back to them. I don't think it is likely that you are doing anything wrong enough to get these results on a completely working unit. Sorry to say.
If, when they get it back they say there is nothing wrong with it than it may just not be the right vape for you.
 
cybrguy,

dzoinp

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Alredy tryed to switch some batteries but its not the problem
If the screw is really tight, try to calibrate it before sending it for repair ... From the photo it looks like it is working, but at 10 it should be much more roasted. I already had a p80 and the results are similar if not better on the TM;)
 

Saerdna

Svapatore seriale
If the screw is really tight, try to calibrate it before sending it for repair ... From the photo it looks like it is working, but at 10 it should be much more roasted. I already had a p80 and the results are similar if not better on the TM;)
Tomorrow i will check that thing too but i dont know if have the right screwdriver. Yeah it's working because i can get vapor, but its not working fine for me.
 
Saerdna,

t_o_k_e_p_h

Well-Known Member
Looking to add the Tinymight to my lineup. I’m just not sure what accessories to purchase. Is the long stem preferred over the short? Should I opt for 3rd party options for wpa/stems/screens, etc.? Has anyone tried the dimpled Extra Long Stem? Most importantly how’s the beeswax?
 
t_o_k_e_p_h,

dzoinp

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Tomorrow i will check that thing too but i dont know if have the right screwdriver. Yeah it's working because i can get vapor, but its not working fine for me.
you can see if it is tight by holding the plates up and down and trying to turn in the opposite direction. if they move it is because it needs to be tightened.
If you want more power, calibrate it. :nod:

If that doesn't work :\ ... CS
 
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