TinyMight / TM 2

[bgrpph]

i don't use capsules, just Grav upline, stock TM short/long tubes & an RBT dimpled tube- i've just been following the TM advice & putting the larger screen flange facing upwards after cleaning. I've not had any screen issues & figured that inserting it as TM advises, allows the wider edge on screen holder to be facing up so the tubes have more metal to rest on thereby lessening chances of screen being pushed in by tube.

i've not looked closely at the screen holder when its out to see how it holds the screen. But one would think that if wider edge faces down, it makes screen more secure against being pushed down, as those that have screen issues are doing. Seems like good idea, but wonder why TM specifically recommends opposite?

I find when i'm using my TM, i can feel a very slight movement in the stem/tube while taking a hit. The top oring holds the tube very solidly but it seems the stem moves just a bit when taking a hit. I figure this slight movement is normal and that having the wider edge of the screen holder facing up gives the tube more metal to rest on at the bottom with less chance of hitting screen. Very interesting discussion

 

[cybrguy]

I think the movement of the stem comes from an oring near the top and no other stem holder near the bottom so it wiggles a bit.

I also think the rim on the screen helps keep the stem from getting as much hot air directed into the stem glass so reduces how hot the stem may get. It still can get quite hot on the bowl side, but less so I would think due to the rim.

 

[slayyou]

I think the movement of the stem comes from an oring near the top and no other stem holder near the bottom so it wiggles a bit.

I also think the rim on the screen helps keep the stem from getting as much hot air directed into the stem glass so reduces how hot the stem may get. It still can get quite hot on the bowl side, but less so I would think due to the rim.

Yes, that is correct, the tube is only supported by the single o-ring, I still don't see how any of that causes the screen to get popped out though. Nonetheless, that unlikely event was one of the things I tried to amend when designing my steel chamber insert. I made sure to give the screen some extra support from bellow, insurance .

Attaching a gasket on my stem holder that slides in between the glass and the aluminum ring fixes the movement of the mouthpiece. This way the glass is supported in 2 locations, the result is that there is no longer any play. I want to keep this device for a few years, if it bugs me I might as well fix it.

That being said I have a lot of hope for TM 2.0, my fixes were quite basic, I imagine they will come up with something much better.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

I pulled out my screen today to measure and then decided to add an RBT basket screen like the famous @dzoinp mod.

I fired up a bowl at temp 7 through my glass ball filled long stem. 5 good hits, zero stirring.

Adding the RBT screen took away the ring imprint in the flower I've seen at higher temperatures. I would normally stir once or twice if I'm vaping at entire bowl at 7 or higher but I didn't need too. I'm impressed.

i've not looked closely at the screen holder when its out to see how it holds the screen. But one would think that if wider edge faces down, it makes screen more secure against being pushed down, as those that have screen issues are doing. Seems like good idea, but wonder why TM specifically recommends opposite?

The wider side has to face up because if you don't have a seal with the stem the device doesn't work. I'd like to see the botton piece redesigned with an X for support at minimum. I haven't had issues but some have and it would make the device more sturdy so why not improve it. That should be part of Tinymight v2 along with a couple other minor things.

 

[EddIW]

Just realised what the at-temp indication is for session mode. I thought there was just the one red LED at the charger and that it leaked into the heating chamber, but there's a separate led in the heating chamber that only comes on when the temp is reached. If you use it in on-demand mode both of the LEDs will blink at the same time and hold solid at the same time when you hold the button in. But in session mode the charger LED will come on straight away with the initial button sequence, but the heater LED will only come on once at the set temp. Just now noticed that it was a separate LED. Nice to know now when the temp is good to go when in session because of the lack of haptic. Don't know if this is well known or not, up until now I have just been leaving about 10 seconds before my first hit in session mode thinking there's no indication smh

 

[RustyOldNail]

Just realised what the at-temp indication is for session mode. I thought there was just the one red LED at the charger and that it leaked into the heating chamber, but there's a separate led in the heating chamber that only comes on when the temp is reached. If you use it in on-demand mode both of the LEDs will blink at the same time and hold solid at the same time when you hold the button in. But in session mode the charger LED will come on straight away with the initial button sequence, but the heater LED will only come on once at the set temp. Just now noticed that it was a separate LED. Nice to know now when the temp is good to go when in session because of the lack of haptic. Don't know if this is well known or not, up until now I have just been leaving about 10 seconds before my first hit in session mode thinking there's no indication smh

Yes, reported already..... and in this thread... go figure...

 

[EddIW]

Yes, reported already..... and in this thread... go figure...

Never hurts to let more people in a 271 page thread know pal. I've been on this thread quite a bit and haven't seen it mentioned, even searched google and the tinymight reddit for an indication. It's also not noted on the instructions or website afaik, so now there's a newer message for people to see, no harm...

 

[RustyOldNail]

Never hurts to let more people in a 271 page thread know pal. I've been on this thread quite a bit and haven't seen it mentioned, even searched google and the tinymight reddit for an indication. It's also not noted on the instructions or website afaik, so now there's a newer message for people to see, no harm...

I replied to your: “Don't know if this is well known or not”.

Thanks to member ”dzoinp“:

TinyMight / TM 2

In session mode the second red led turn on when the temp is reached. If you press the button in session mode actives the boost ( 1.5 step up) :D

fuckcombustion.com

Now as soon as I click the POST button, this info will be a page behind, and we can then point back to your post, in the near future, unfortunately few things here can ever be “well known”....

 

[cbd.equipment]

That's what I ended up doing after pushing the screen down onto the coil.

My Tinymight lost its mind and went super-nova when the screen was touching the coil, instantly generating massive heat and igniting my herb; it actually burned a hole thru the screen! I couldn't get it to power back up after that and figured that it was likely toast, so I tore it down and did a thorough cleaning. I even removed the coil from the glass tube, took the pins out, flattened it out and thoroughly cleaned it. It was a MASSIVE pain getting that coil wound back up with the pins in place; I highly do NOT recommend it. It's been working flawlessly ever since, though!

Great work! Dismantling is very scary! Lots of people on this thread asking "how on earth can that happen", when in fact it is quite easy to do! It is spring loaded and only held in via tension - nothing more.

The mesh should be thicker, more dense and electrically tacked (at minimum) to it's housing ring. I suspect on later revisions this will be improved.

Also, people saying that reversing the ring prevents it from working? Works fine here my friend and it fixed the problems I was having.

 

[SixStringToker]

The wider side has to face up because if you don't have a seal with the stem the device doesn't work.

The o-ring at the top of the TM creates the seal. With that o-ring in place, the air flow has no other route to take except up through the heater coil and into the stem. If I pull the stem out slightly, creating a gap between the stem and the screen holder, I still get an excellent hit. if that o-ring were not in place, it'd be a completely different story, though.

In my own case, with the screen holder reversed, I've actually found that the stem sits down inside the screen holder, essentially locking itself in place so that it can't wiggle around.

 

[Vaporific]

In my own case, with the screen holder reversed, I've actually found that the stem sits down inside the screen holder, essentially locking itself in place so that it can't wiggle around.

True however I initially had it wide flange side down and the screen somehow got loose, touched the heating coil and (cough!) caused a combustion incident. I could see the charring on the screen from the coil. I prefer the wide side up so there’s little chance the stem can make contact with the screen And the stem sits flush on top of the screen ring.

With the narrower side up like you have, I know the stem will fit inside the ring but I think it’s more prone to putting force on the screen in certain situations. A fixed ring as someone above suggested would be an improvement with the ability to change screens too - that would be my recommendation.

Two led lights, eh? Still don’t see this but I won’t quibble. I’m still under the impression there’s only one. I need to look at teardown pics again for affirmation. Eventually. Just glad my TM works well - every single time.

 

[LabPong]

In my own case, with the screen holder reversed, I've actually found that the stem sits down inside the screen holder, essentially locking itself in place so that it can't wiggle around.

This is how you can poke the screen out of the holder and thus falls into the heater tip and wreaks havoc!

Best to be safe and keep that posibility off the table so to speak......that is probably how this happened to many....they had the screen in upside down and it allowed the glass stem to push it into the heater coil.

 

[SixStringToker]

This is how you can poke the screen out of the holder and thus falls into the heater tip and wreaks havoc!

I've found the opposite to be the case; it's quite a bit easier to push the screen through from the other side due to the smaller lip. I was quite paranoid after getting my TM put back together and spent no small amount of time intentionally trying to dislodge the screen with the stem in this configuration; that screen is not going anywhere. It probably helps that I'm using a slightly larger screen than the original so that it's really locked in place.

 

[LabPong]

I've found the opposite to be the case. I was quite paranoid after getting my TM put back together and spent no small amount of time intentionally trying to dislodge the screen with the stem in this configuration; that screen is not going anywhere. It probably helps that I'm using a slightly larger screen than the original so that it's really locked in place.

Good call on the stronger screen...that should work very well then....good hack!

 

[dzoinp]

In my own case, with the screen holder reversed, I've actually found that the stem sits down inside the screen holder, essentially locking itself in place so that it can't wiggle around.

Sorry but this is the correct orientation for the coil screen.
The objective is precisely that ... for the stem to fit into it.

 

[SixStringToker]

Sorry but this is the correct orientation for the coil screen.
The objective is precisely that ... for the stem to fit into it.

It certainly seems more secure this way; it's just the opposite of what the manufacturer recommends.

 

[fogbank]

Two led lights, eh? Still don’t see this but I won’t quibble. I’m still under the impression there’s only one.

I have two TinyMights. I received the first one in January, and I received the second one in June.

The one that I received in January only shows one LED color: red. When I push the button 3 times to turn it on I only see red LED lights.

The one I received in June shows two LED colors: red and green. When I push the button 3 times to turn it on I see both red and green LED lights. Green flashes first, then red.

 

[Cheebsy]

There are still 2 LEDs lol... The one on the bottom is now dual colour, it wasn't in early revisions. It's also nowhere near the heater so couldn't shine up through the unit. It's near the narrow battery radius, not the thicker heater radius.

I admit I didn't realise at first, but if you run session mode a number of times, especially if that's at night, it is quite obvious.

 

[LabPong]

Sorry but this is the correct orientation for the coil screen.
The objective is precisely that ... for the stem to fit into it.

I only have used the stock stem one time when I got the first TM. Took out a stock stem and fit it on both sides of the screen/washer. It does fit very well in the wider end and will also hold the screen in better..... so it cuts down on the probability of pushing the screen out of the washer and then into the heater.

Though the manufacture shows directly on the directions and has quoted that here on the forum....the wider side of the flange is supposed to go outward. With my RBT stem the flange can go either way, but fits better in the stock position. This is because the glass end has a bit of taper to it and the the wider opening end allows for air leaking outside the stem entrance.

So using the stock stems....probably wont matter for vapor production either way you use it....but seems if you use the mods for stem setups...you might want to use the wider opening side outward to help the screen stay in better.

If using other stems..pull the screen/washer out and see how it fits on the glass you are using.....go from there.

 

[dzoinp]

The image of the instructions clearly shows the orientation of the screen.
We all seem to agree, don't we? But the word "flange" in the text of the instructions is shuffling everyone ... and this has been happening for a long time

edit:
I don't use the coil screen stock.
As it should be, I use my mod screen and then yes, the screen is placed in reverse.

 

[Djsleepy]

The one month mark.....feeling soon.....got all tools and stuff.....I am super stoked about this!

 

[SquirrelMaster]

The o-ring at the top of the TM creates the seal. With that o-ring in place, the air flow has no other route to take except up through the heater coil and into the stem. If I pull the stem out slightly, creating a gap between the stem and the screen holder, I still get an excellent hit. if that o-ring were not in place, it'd be a completely different story, though.

In my own case, with the screen holder reversed, I've actually found that the stem sits down inside the screen holder, essentially locking itself in place so that it can't wiggle around.

There was reports of weak extraction when the wide side is facing down and I presume caused a stem to not full seat on the metal rim.

The manual call for the wide rim to face up and this is the only reason I can think of why they do. It makes sense to flip it to prevent the screen from popping out though. Mine is currently wide up because I have an RBT basket screen jammed in to try out the screen mod which is working really well.

@dzoinp
The picture on the instructions isn't easy enough to see which side but the description states "when you re-assemble it, make sure the mesh holder wider flange is upwards and DON'T tighten the tube holder strongly" in the photo I posted a page back.

If someone is really concerned they could take a hammer to their ring to secure the screen if a welder isn't available. Or just be gentle and examine your screen every once and a while and you should be ok.

 

[seatsniffer]

Ive had my unit for around a month now, give or take.

Overall I'm very happy with the device. I like the heater design. I remember around week 7 or 8 of the wait for it to arrive thinking "no way its as good as everyone says, it'll be a disappointment like the mv1" but I was very wrong.

I had some RBT stems so I did the upside down method with a dome screen and started to rip away through my bong. From the first hit, the device became my default except for when I'm in the mood to hit a session vape like my extreme q or something.

At some point around week 3 I had an intermittent problem of the output power being quite low. Examined the air path and re-seated everything multiple times with no luck. I tried cleaning battery contacts (and different batteries) with no luck either. I then took the thing apart and noticed that under the top metal "lid" the foil strip from the heater wasn't getting good electrical contact. So I put a small thin strip of wood (a shaving really, maybe half the size of my pinky fingernail, 0.1mm thick as an estimate) under the foil contact and now I have no more contact issues and it hits perfect every single time.

You could use anything thin and non conductive to do the same if you come across this issue and cleaning the battery contacts or fiddling with the orings doesn't help. I normally would have used electrical tape but I didn't want adhesives or plastics near the vapor path(admittedly probably a little over cautious).

 

[Vaporific]

@dzoinp
The picture on the instructions isn't easy enough to see which side but the description states "when you re-assemble it, make sure the mesh holder wider flange is upwards and DON'T tighten the tube holder strongly" in the photo I posted a page back.

If someone is really concerned they could take a hammer to their ring to secure the screen if a welder isn't available. Or just be gentle and examine your screen every once and a while and you should be ok.

Agreed - the picture could be better. I’ve had the wide side up now for a couple of months, with a new screen since the original got scorched in my second and last combustion incident, and it’s in solid and works well. I can see how some like it the other way, wide side down, but for me I’d the wide side is up it’s next to impossible for the stock stem to touch the screen - and I pack loads with space between the end of the stem and flower. If the metal cylinder is seated well on the heater ring with wide side up, I should never have a problem (again).

Nor will I ever touch or move the glass cylinder again! That was a pain in the ass and dislodged the large clear oring sitting atop of it. Once that came out it was impossible to get in after a few months of usage; it would curl at the slightest touch and difficult to reinsert. I requested and received spares with my last accessory order. PLEASE be mindful when the glass cylinder is exposed when manipulating the heater screen ring is all I’m saying.

I then took the thing apart and noticed that under the top metal "lid" the foil strip from the heater wasn't getting good electrical contact. So I put a small thin strip of wood (a shaving really, maybe half the size of my pinky fingernail, 0.1mm thick as an estimate) under the foil contact and now I have no more contact issues and it hits perfect every single time.

What was the contact making contact with, the top plate itself? I vaguely recall seeing something like that but I’m not taking it apart for curiosity’s sake and too baked - thanks to my TM on my vacation week and I haven’t had coffee yet - to lookup teardown pics.

I gotta say, my Tinymight friggin rocks every single time!

 

[m0sh]

I got the baskets, got the charger, got 4 extra batteries.
Everything is ready for the TinyMight, order says complete
I wonder if it will say shipped ?