Discontinued ThermoVape Evolution

[Pipes]

I hate to misquote you , but "powering it all with a 10440 may not be worth the tradeoffs". Maybe an IMR14500.

Party pooper...jk. Pending on usage could be useful for the price.
Also found you can go with the e-go pass through at 1000 mAh for $25 (IMO too much). The problem would be it likely has timed output and/or current limit circuitry. And would need a "shorty" extension.
Anyone want a looksee, Altsmoke
Gotta love options. Keeps life interesting.

Maybe it's not meant to be? Time for a 'those grapes are probably sour anyway' moment? OF

I hear ya. Idea is sound, just need to cram a bigger battery in there. Kinda puts it back to square one. I do like the handle part by itself though. Just need to chop off the USB and let your imagination run a muck. BestEcig
To get the imagination running faster throw this in the mix.

Pipes

 

[OF]

Also found you can go with the e-go pass through at 1000 mAh for $25 (IMO too much). The problem would be it likely has timed output and/or current limit circuitry.

I've got one of these guys, actually the "upgrade" version that has a second 'regulator bypassed' mode that costs a dollar more where I got it. IMO a great feature, well worth a buck. You hold the button down for five seconds when it's locked out. It changes color and when you unlock it again (5 pushes) it's in the other mode.

Yes, it has a ten second (?) timer and also has current limit that prevents Evolution level loads. Fine for Revolution/DART and Omicron carts.

The 650 mAh version is actually one of my favorite supplies. I've got one in my pants pocket right now with an Omicron cart and adapter in a doob tube. Mighty handy.

OF

 

[Pipes]

I've got one of these guys, actually the "upgrade" version that has a second 'regulator bypassed' mode that costs a dollar more where I got it. IMO a great feature, well worth a buck. You hold the button down for five seconds when it's locked out. It changes color and when you unlock it again (5 pushes) it's in the other mode.

Yes, it has a ten second (?) timer and also has current limit that prevents Evolution level loads. Fine for Revolution/DART and Omicron carts.

The 650 mAh version is actually one of my favorite supplies. I've got one in my pants pocket right now with an Omicron cart and adapter in a doob tube. Mighty handy.

OF

Good to know. Amazing how smart they make those things.
BTW, I edited my post above at the same time as you were responding.

Pipes

 

[OF]

To get the imagination running faster throw this in the mix.

Small world. A few posts back I said I was working on stuffing a 14500 and holder in the PA body I got from TV and got sidetracked? Wanna guess what got me sidetracked? I ordered two of these (Mauser carries 'em for ten bucks each), they fit inside just fine...... Still haven't figured out how to put the trimpot in too so it can be adjustable.......

Someday I'll get back to it.

OF

 

[Pipes]

Small world. A few posts back I said I was working on stuffing a 14500 and holder in the PA body I got from TV and got sidetracked? Wanna guess what got me sidetracked? I ordered two of these (Mauser carries 'em for ten bucks each), they fit inside just fine...... Still haven't figured out how to put the trimpot in too so it can be adjustable.......

Someday I'll get back to it.

OF

Too funny.
Instead of a trim pot, I was thinking a single switch to set between 2 preset voltages. 3.7/6 Volt. Just need a couple resisters and a micro dip switch.
Another thought I had was the guy a few pages back who needed extra power for extended periods as no AC was easily available for charging. One could buy one of the OKRs and a relatively cheap 12volt rechargeable flashlight and install it into the flashlight with a switchable output for a power handle. This would be very stealth as who questions a flashlight.? Or install into a car battery assist packs. (common up north here.)
It could also be installed into a easily obtainable 12 volt wall supply and add an addition DC input which can be used in the car and you would have a power solution for home and while travelling as well as dual output voltage option. A true all in one solution. Add a DC meter if really want to be fancy and some realistate exists.
That OKR is one cool device for sure.

Pipes

 

[OF]

That OKR is one cool device for sure.

Yup. The idea started as a 'feedthrough' PA head that could drive LV stuff from the same 6 Volt switcher the SV uses. From there to switched LV/SV version as you suggest since you could run it on a 'car cord' or any other source handy. From there VV seems a natural next step.....

About now someone should come up with the saw about 'two great minds, single thought' I suppose, but I favor the Pole's take (old Polish folk saying): "Fools seldom differ".

OF

 

[Nick Again]

Yup. The idea started as a 'feedthrough' PA head that could drive LV stuff from the same 6 Volt switcher the SV uses. From there to switched LV/SV version as you suggest since you could run it on a 'car cord' or any other source handy. From there VV seems a natural next step.....

About now someone should come up with the saw about 'two great minds, single thought' I suppose, but I favor the Pole's take (old Polish folk saying): "Fools seldom differ".

OF

Boy, go away for a day....

One problem is I believe the OKR parts are step-down/"buck" only. I originally suggested one for a 6v supply from automotive 12v (or 13.2 from the battery or 13.8 from the alternator). I'm pretty sure that those regulators require a supply voltage just a bit more that a diode drop above the output voltage (i.e. without checking, I believe it was 0.8v above required).

Now, if you want a boost/buck design, TI has some controllers that drive external N channel FETs that can handle the current; I don't know of any integrated (i.e. single package with input and output directly connected) part that can handle more that an amp or maybe two (some Maxim or old NationalSemi parts).

-NDA

 

[Pipes]

Boy, go away for a day....

One problem is I believe the OKR parts are step-down/"buck" only. I originally suggested one for a 6v supply from automotive 12v (or 13.2 from the battery or 13.8 from the alternator). I'm pretty sure that those regulators require a supply voltage just a bit more that a diode drop above the output voltage (i.e. without checking, I believe it was 0.8v above required).

Now, if you want a boost/buck design, TI has some controllers that drive external N channel FETs that can handle the current; I don't know of any integrated (i.e. single package with input and output directly connected) part that can handle more that an amp or maybe two (some Maxim or old NationalSemi parts).

-NDA

Welcome back.
Yeah, the topic went a couple different ways as we were throwing ideas around. The use of the OKR was intended to be used with a 12 volt input supply. Whether from car, 12 volt supply (which are so much easier to find) or rechargeable flashlight. The point was that it would be an easy way to have a "switchable" or VV output. The topic started as a USB charger feeding a battery for buffered PA.
Always fun to poke ideas out there.
Edit:
Aye, yes OF did state the same supply. (how'd I miss that) The solution would be to just use an easy to find supply. Lots to pick from if not overly concerned on the voltage and just need current capabilities.

Pipes

 

[OF]

I'm pretty sure that those regulators require a supply voltage just a bit more that a diode drop above the output voltage (i.e. without checking, I believe it was 0.8v above required).

Actually it's two Volts of needed headroom. Still enough to make a 3.7 Volt PA powered by the existing 6.0 one TV uses.

I also had to switch to the 10 Amp version, not because of the current but the 15 Watt total output limit ('runs out of iron' it seems?).

Edit:
Aye, yes OF did state the same supply. (how'd I miss that) The solution would be to just use an easy to find supply. Lots to pick from if not overly concerned on the voltage and just need current capabilities.

I was surprised to find 3.7 Volt switchers don't grow on trees. 3.3 maybe, 5.0s a plenty, but a big old hole right were TV needs a COTS solution. And made in USA if possible....

Fun project, for a later day.

OF

 

[Mr Five-Hundred]

Hi guys - I just got my LV evolution -

Only problem is, the LV battery fits so snuggly into the holder that it is IMPOSSIBLE to get it out.
Has anyone else had this problem??
Have they sent me the wrong holder for the battery?

 

[OF]

Hi guys - I just got my LV evolution -

Only problem is, the LV battery fits so snuggly into the holder that it is IMPOSSIBLE to get it out.
Has anyone else had this problem??
Have they sent me the wrong holder for the battery?

No, I doubt it. Some 17670s are real tight all right, seems to me to be the label that's the 'straw that broke the camel's back'. I have several, and a couple of tubes, but even the tightest ones can be 'banged out' (hold it nose down in your hand then bang your hand into something and let inertia work for you, don't take a chance on denting anything). Otherwise you can poke it out through the vent hole in the bottom.

You can also put it in either end first, that might help as well?

OF

 

[Mr Five-Hundred]

No, I doubt it. Some 17670s are real tight all right, seems to me to be the label that's the 'straw that broke the camel's back'. I have several, and a couple of tubes, but even the tightest ones can be 'banged out' (hold it nose down in your hand then bang your hand into something and let inertia work for you, don't take a chance on denting anything). Otherwise you can poke it out through the vent hole in the bottom.

You can also put it in either end first, that might help as well?

OF

Hey OF.

It does seem that it is the battery label causing the un-wanted tightness - Is it safe to use the batteries stripped??

I have tried all the tips you have mentioned to get the battery out to no avail. -

I really dont understand how they can sell a product with batteries that don't fit properly.

 

[OF]

It does seem that it is the battery label causing the un-wanted tightness - Is it safe to use the batteries stripped??

I have tried all the tips you have mentioned to get the battery out to no avail. -

I really dont understand how they can sell a product with batteries that don't fit properly.

Yes, it's fine to remove the label. Don't however strip the black jacket off.

Have you tried poking it up enough to grab the top of the battery? I'm having a tough time seeing how that doesn't work. I just tied it here.....

They sell what is supplied to them. If you measure a few batteries you'll see some of them are oversize by a tiny bit (enough it seems?) and some are out of round causing the problem. This is actually a fairly common problem in Li-ion batteries. There's a large variation in diameter and length (a bigger issue sometimes) in 18650s for instance, to the point that some brands (not just examples) don't work in some e-cig and flashlight applications. Sometimes standards aren't so standard.

This is also an issue with MFLB sometimes, seems NiMH batteries aren't all that round either?

Anyway, poking the stuck one out should work, removing the label should prevent further problems. You might also like to mess around with temperature? Say put the lot in the refrigerator for a bit then hit the outside of the tube with a hair dryer so it expands before the heat gets to the battery and expands it as well?

OF

EDIT: I'm not sure I rush right out and blame battery makers, they're under a lot of pressure to push the internal volume as high as absolutely possible to get the highest possible ratings to make sales. In a way it's us customers that are driving it, strange as that is. They push it as far as they possibly can to please us.....sometimes it seems a mite too far?

The key remains, I think, to get a set that works for you? OF

 

[Mr Five-Hundred]

The only thing that will fit through the hole is a paper clip - the paper clip is not strong enough to push it out. not even a millimetre.- I'm going to go find a tiny screwdriver. Trust me this is stuck fast.

I will try the hot and cold method.

Interesting what you say about the not so standard sizes

Thanks OF.

MR 500

 

[OF]

The only thing that will fit through the hole is a paper clip - the paper clip is not strong enough to push it out. not even a millimetre.- I'm going to go find a tiny screwdriver. Trust me this is stuck fast.

I will try the hot and cold method.

Interesting what you say about the not so standard sizes

Thanks OF.

You're welcome, sorry you're having troubles. I had one I really pushed in hard and got jammed (turns out I had a bit of paper in there with it.....). I used a short length (so it wouldn't bend) piece of brass rod (1/16 inch diameter) I had from another project. It just stuck out an 1/8 inch or less, it just got the battery started when I pressed it down on the deck. I followed it up with a slightly longer piece (ends filed flat after cutting). At that point it got loose enough so a longer piece or rod pushed it all the way clear.

Yup, noting like non standard standards is there? Darn metric system, never happened with real inches.....well not as often.....

Huxley was right you know, a pint satisfies like no half liter ever will. Funny how when we shifted off traditional 'fifths' (of a gallon) for spirit bottles, the smaller 750 ml became the standard. Price went up, too.

Best wishes.

OF

 

[Nick Again]

Yes, it's fine to remove the label. Don't however strip the black jacket off.

Have you tried poking it up enough to grab the top of the battery? I'm having a tough time seeing how that doesn't work. I just tied it here.....

They sell what is supplied to them. If you measure a few batteries you'll see some of them are oversize by a tiny bit (enough it seems?) and some are out of round causing the problem. This is actually a fairly common problem in Li-ion batteries. There's a large variation in diameter and length (a bigger issue sometimes) in 18650s for instance, to the point that some brands (not just examples) don't work in some e-cig and flashlight applications. Sometimes standards aren't so standard.

This is also an issue with MFLB sometimes, seems NiMH batteries aren't all that round either?

Anyway, poking the stuck one out should work, removing the label should prevent further problems. You might also like to mess around with temperature? Say put the lot in the refrigerator for a bit then hit the outside of the tube with a hair dryer so it expands before the heat gets to the battery and expands it as well?

OF

EDIT: I'm not sure I rush right out and blame battery makers, they're under a lot of pressure to push the internal volume as high as absolutely possible to get the highest possible ratings to make sales. In a way it's us customers that are driving it, strange as that is. They push it as far as they possibly can to please us.....sometimes it seems a mite too far?

The key remains, I think, to get a set that works for you? OF

Protected mode cells are allowed .5mm of space in the diameter to account for the wire or ribbon (in better brands) which connects the bottom terminal to the circuit board at the top. This connection runs under the wrapper the length of the cell, If you peel a protected mode battery, it can become dangerous either by exposing the wire/ribbon, or by breaking it and rendering the protection circuit useless (in some brands, the cell will still "work" - very bad - they should fail if the board doesn't have power, but different brands are different).

So, in particular, you should actually expect NOT ROUND and should be able to feel the ribbon or wire on the side (of course, "IMR" or LFP/LiFePO4 or unprotected cells with no circuit board WILL be round).

BTW. I'd guess NiMHs may be "out of round" due to poor quality control on the welds - no circuit board in them (but I have a box of cheap AAs that aren't round and won't fit a small pocket flashlight I carry).

-NDA

 

[OF]

If you peel a protected mode battery, it can become dangerous either by exposing the wire/ribbon, or by breaking it and rendering the protection circuit useless (in some brands, the cell will still "work" - very bad - they should fail if the board doesn't have power, but different brands are different).

Exactly right. OK to remove the (metal foil) label, but not the plastic jacket. Sometimes you can even find a wrinkle in the jacket from the shrink down process not being exact.

OF

 

[jambandphan03]

so how does the new mod LV Evo compare to the original?? is it a monster?

 

[Thewall420]

I thought I would try connecting the mouthpiece directly to the evolution (standard voltage) and not use the outer shell at first it was working great and then this happened.

I did not taste or smell any burning plastic and the melted plastic came out of the evolution without any force and left no apparent residue behind.
I'm just posting this so others don't make the same dumb mistake. now I got to figure out how to make a new mouth piece.

 

[Haywood]

Wow!!! I've been using my SV Evo for months with the mouthpiece directly connected, and nothing like this has ever happened! I've been using my Delrin mouthpieces not even my PTFE (high temp Teflon) mouthpiece, and they have all been fine. My SV Evo is on it's way back to TV to be re-cored to 30W (it's normally 20W, IIRC). I think I'll stick with the PTFE mouthpiece when it comes back.

I suspect if you ask nicely, TV may replace your mouthpiece for you, even though it's "not their fault"

 

[Thewall420]

ya its completely my fault, its not a big deal I found some tubing that fits on the outer shell portion of the evolution and I am testing it now to see if it can hold up to the heat.

 

[Vape N Bake]

so how does the new mod LV Evo compare to the original?? is it a monster?

Not a monster but definitely better.
Quicker heat up.
Better vapor production. (Still room for improvement)
Better extraction. (Abv still not as dark as I like. Save your abv for your desktop.)
Batteries stay cooler. (I used to switch batteries during a session so they don't get so hot. Now I don't need to.)

I use the EVO stock and dry. Running thru water might get you closer to the monster you are looking for.

 

[Nic]

so how does the new mod LV Evo compare to the original?? is it a monster?

Yea it is. I am using it direct UFO style with an Alpha Ultra, and I'm having trouble keeping it from combusting. When you get it right, it's a powerhouse. If anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them! I'm wondering if it's just too powerful to use without the sleeve...

 

[jambandphan03]

Well, I'm grounding myself from spending for a bit, until I can get caught up with some payments, but I want to get the ultra and possibly the upgraded Evo core. Maybe when the next big sale comes along the timing will be better. Thanks for the input!!

 

[OF]

Yea it is. I am using it direct UFO style with an Alpha Ultra, and I'm having trouble keeping it from combusting. When you get it right, it's a powerhouse. If anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them! I'm wondering if it's just too powerful to use without the sleeve...

Actually, I'd think having the (insulating) sleeve there would make it hotter, not cooler.

I got a couple of different power levels of 'Beta test' prototypes to test. For most of it I had two cores (they'd rebuild them for the next test sometimes) so I could A/B test them (more or less identical units, except for the change, using the same loads; one in each hand). I assume others did the same drill. My 'best value' unit is the one that went into production (that doesn't always happen....). IIRC it was the second of five levels? The hotter ones tended toward combustion and were harder to 'milk the taste out' on the low temperature end (as you'd expect I guess). I've never tried the new LV version (as such), but I think it's probably higher up that power scale so what you report seems exactly what I'd expect.

Run it right and you can get some astounding performance, but it takes more control to avoid trouble kind thing.

I also had more trouble getting uniform ABV as I recall, do you see that as well? A useful tradeoff, but as you suggest perhaps too powerful for some.

OF