Discontinued Thermovape Cera

[tavosvo]

Can anyone give me some feedback as to whether their set screw holes have any airflow? Two of mine suck air when i pull while the other two are sealed shut. All the screws are installed correctly. Trying to decide if I need to send it in.

Anyone? This is EO cart btw sorry.

 

[Pipes]

Now people won't wonder how it turns on!


This is just an ebay switch with ratings that vary from 2-5a depending on the seller, so we'll see how long it lasts:


But it passes 4.7 amps (fresh batt) looks good and it is SOO much easier to use!


I can't tell you how big of a pain it was to have to twist off the cap to turn it off, I'll never take buttons for granted again!

I was thinking about your mod here and found a possible cap for you.




Click on the picture to go to the site that tells how to do it.

Now if you go this route don't forget a vent hole somewhere.
Safety 1st. or at least a close second.?

mod note: Please do not quote more than necessary. Pictures removed.

 

[toros23]

Anyone? This is EO cart btw sorry.

Regarding set screws, in my experience there should not be any airflow through there if the screws are all fully inserted. The airflow comes from the bottom of the cart in this case but if a screw is missing/removed most of the airflow will come through the screw hole.

 

[YeeeBuddy]

Anyone? This is EO cart btw sorry.

I'm pretty sure the airflow isn't supposed to be coming from the holes with the screws, I just tried covering all 4 of those holes and still got airflow, i actually cant tell the difference between covering and not.

edit

A side note as following about your concerns regarding button vs flat. I would not be switching back and forth as the overall length is different and going from a button top to flat top might give weaker spring connection as the button top will compress it more. If you're currently using button you might want to leave it be as the batteries can generally be purchased either way. Just food for thought.

This is the difference in length between my 2250's and 2900's, you think that's enough to effect the spring? I guess over time anything is possible.

 

[toros23]

I'm pretty sure the airflow isn't supposed to be coming from the holes with the screws, I just tried covering all 4 of those holes and still got airflow, i actually cant tell the difference between covering and not. I dont think anything is wrong with your cart.

I believe he said his problem is that he is getting airflow through the screw holes with all 4 screws installed.

 

[tavosvo]

I'm pretty sure the airflow isn't supposed to be coming from the holes with the screws, I just tried covering all 4 of those holes and still got airflow, i actually cant tell the difference between covering and not. I dont think anything is wrong with your cart.

Thanks for the response. I still get flow when all holes are covered, but if I uncover the two in question airflow increases slightly and I can hear a whisper from them. When I initially emailed Zeki about this, he said assuming screws are installed right, he has no idea.

 

[toros23]

Thanks for the response. I still get flow when all holes are covered, but if I uncover the two in question airflow increases slightly and I can hear a whisper from them. When I initially emailed Zeki about this, he said assuming screws are installed right, he has no idea.

Something sounds off to me. If all four screws are installed correctly then you should only get airflow from the bottom of the cart.

 

[YeeeBuddy]

Yea I think toros is right, I get no difference in airflow when covering the screw holes. Maybe they came loose and aren't in all the way.

 

[Pipes]

This is the difference in length between my 2250's and 2900's, you think that's enough to effect the spring? I guess over time anything is possible.

It really depends on the type of spring. Some are very sensitive to how much they can move before the memory effect becomes weaker. In the case of the Cera this might not be as big of an issue but why chance it if can be avoided. Only time can tell.
You want to avoid having to pull out the spring at all as that really deteriorates the memory effect. Can get away with it once or twice if VERY careful but still not a good thing.

 

[tavosvo]

Ok thanks guys. I guess I'll wait for my LL cart to show up then send the EO back to TET for a look. Appreciate the help toros and yeebuddy

 

[OF]

Can anyone give me some feedback as to whether their set screw holes have any airflow? Two of mine suck air when i pull while the other two are sealed shut. All the screws are installed correctly. Trying to decide if I need to send it in.

Thanks for the response. I still get flow when all holes are covered, but if I uncover the two in question airflow increases slightly and I can hear a whisper from them. When I initially emailed Zeki about this, he said assuming screws are installed right, he has no idea.

Depending on the exact fit of the screws in the holes and the fit of the base sleeve the heater is built in has to the body it's possible sometimes to get modest leakage there.

I just checked the two EO cores I have handy, one in 8 screw holes shows this.

As long as it's not effecting performance and the screws are solidly in I'd enjoy it.

Persei, OF Adapter, Ti Cera EO cart, Nibbler x, FTW!
no mp, just removed o-rings and nibbler slides right on! i had an extended mp on, i slid it down and it fit, then i noticed that the cera cart and bottom of nibbler were about the same size. pull the plug out the bottom of the nibbler, insert cera. Booyah!
warning, pull on and off slowly

Cool. I tried this, thought it was too tight to mess with (one side being expensive glass) and wrote it off to being metric on the Nibbler and SAE on the TV side.....I never thought of taking the rings off.....

Great catch, it seals well enough without the rings I assume? Beats making an adapter some day like I was thinking.

Another example of why I suspect sometime you're more than just another pretty face around here.....

Now people won't wonder how it turns on!


This is just an ebay switch with ratings that vary from 2-5a depending on the seller, so we'll see how long it lasts:


But it passes 4.7 amps (fresh batt) looks good and it is SOO much easier to use!


I can't tell you how big of a pain it was to have to twist off the cap to turn it off, I'll never take buttons for granted again!

Great find. I guess it goes without saying by all means buy from the guy that is selling the 5 Amp ones.......right?

The switch issue, for being a simple as it seems is really far from it isn't it? The duty switching lots of DC can sneak up and wipe the switches out even though they work fine initially. Like the original momentary (the domed ones) TV used?

I still have a feeling the best solution is in the auto, marine or trucking market. There lots of current at 12 Volts DC is the norm.

It really depends on the type of spring. Some are very sensitive to how much they can move before the memory effect becomes weaker.

While this is true in the general case (one reaches the "elastic limit" of the spring after which it deforms), the type used in Cera is 'extra special' in that it's designed to collapse in an overload. Messing with it is not really advised for that reason (it's not the best general purpose spring type). Instead I'd recommend a shim for short batteries, I put a dime in behind the ones that don't fit tight in mine.

Within the elastic limit, good springs do not degrade in use. Consider how long the ones holding up your car last. Or the valve spring caught fully compressed when the engine stops, sometimes for months or years doesn't 'take a set' from the experience. Once you exceed the limit atoms shift places and the world is never the same again for them. Or the owner.

OF

 

[YeeeBuddy]

So I should be fine switching between 2250's and 2900's with the cera spring? The shorter ones fit fine without a shim everything is solid. I have plenty of 2250's but would like to get some use out of the 2900's from TET they weren't exactly cheap.

Edit: also if the spring did eventually wear out isn't that covered in the lifetime warranty? They were originally shipping ceras with 2250's so its not like they werent expecting people to use them.

 

[Pipes]

So I should be fine switching between 2250's and 2900's with the cera spring? The shorter ones fit fine without a shim everything is solid. I have plenty of 2250's but would like to get some use out of the 2900's from TET they weren't exactly cheap.

You should be fine. The picture you showed is not that bad. Never saw a side by side but have had some button tops with bigger differences, specially if protected.

 

[OF]

So I should be fine switching between 2250's and 2900's with the cera spring? The shorter ones fit fine without a shim everything is solid. I have plenty of 2250's but would like to get some use out of the 2900's from TET they weren't exactly cheap.

Edit: also if the spring did eventually wear out isn't that covered in the lifetime warranty? They were originally shipping ceras with 2250's so its not like they werent expecting people to use them.

Sounds good, I'd use them if you feel inclined. My 'test' is to have it come up snug with solid contact a turn or two before the cap comes up tight. I tip the body back and forth to note when the slack is gone, expect firm contact a turn later and want another turn as 'insurance'.

Again, unless abused springs don't 'wear out' in the normal sense. Should it fail, for any reason, I'm sure they'll fix it. Stretching it past it's elastic limit to change the "free length" is not a good idea generally and doing it more than a few times will weaken the spring so it will fail much as bending a piece of wire will eventually break it (same atomic level process in both cases in fact). Each time you exceed the elastic limit weakens it a bit and it can never recover that without heat treatment.

OF

 

[BLAZING OG]

I hope everyone had a great 420!!!!!!!
I had an amazing 420, woke up at 5am to stand in line (25 seconds walking distance)@ my local collective for a free quarter of some amazing Skywalker OG.................mmmm...........anyways, I busted out cera(a bit empty i might say) and got myself, my best friend & like 5 or six people medicated for a few hours!!!!!! I turned 6 people or more into CERA-aholic's!!!!!!! They asked me "does it hit like a G-Pen?" I said "No, Try this!" They all passed it around coughing and talking about cera in dis-belief on how smooth she hits but yet they were blowing out Clouds of vapor's!!!!!!!
They all agreed that it was way better than a g-pen (lol) not hot to the throat and smooth yet powerful!!!!!!! So far, since my cera came back from repair, she been my go to girl for oils, i havent used my nail & torch at all. I can get such huge hits that its honestly debilitating at times, i have been in a cera comma more than a few times lol lol lol!!!
My wife says "Me & cera dont get along" I ask her "WHY" She tells me " She, Freaking knocks me out every time!" ILMAO ILMAO !!!!!
Cera, can deliver Effects immediately, or you can hit her lightly but then she still creeps on your A$$, & BAAAAAMMMMMMM your down for the count again!!!!!

 

[GR]

I could use some help with the LL cart please.

I can get OF's beginner technique to work fine but I can not do the advanced technique. Every time I pack at all I get combustion 100% of the time. I have tried various packing all with the same result, combustion. If I do a loose load I get vape just fine in under one minute from cold start, but any packing takes closer to 3 min to get the first wisp of vape then pop, combustion.

 

[Darb]

Hey JoeKickass that Cera power supply is awesome!!
I hope you don't mind but I'm going to make one for myself.
I have already broken my Cera body (1.5 inch crack) and chipped a piece from the mouthpiece cap.
Your design looks much tougher. I'm always dropping stuff.

 

[OF]

I can get OF's beginner technique to work fine but I can not do the advanced technique. Every time I pack at all I get combustion 100% of the time.

As a guess you're working at it too hard. It should be basically impossible to combust, Lord knows I've tried. I'm guessing it's a step 1 issue?

First off, don't pack it in, keep it open and flowing. We need to move lots of air for convection to work easily and normally. Secondly, be sure the core is hot and stable. Watch it enough to know when this happens otherwise give it longer, a minute while you're learning it isn't too much. Then, once you know the core is ready (step 1), start the heating pulls of step 2. Not vapor, heating. Do test puffs and keep at step 2 until you get a solid positive before hitting it. The test puff tells you the entire bowl is at or very near working temperature. This is not what I think is happening in your case. You're getting vapor from only a small part of the load which then overheats before the rest of the load comes on line.

The goal in the 3 steps is to do each step in turn, not make vapor. That happens automatically at step 3 if one and two are right.

Good luck. My guess is it's technique not a problem with the unit or the herbs.

OF

 

[GR]

As a guess you're working at it too hard. It should be basically impossible to combust, Lord knows I've tried. I'm guessing it's a step 1 issue?

First off, don't pack it in, keep it open and flowing. We need to move lots of air for convection to work easily and normally. Secondly, be sure the core is hot and stable. Watch it enough to know when this happens otherwise give it longer, a minute while you're learning it isn't too much. Then, once you know the core is ready (step 1), start the heating pulls of step 2. Not vapor, heating. Do test puffs and keep at step 2 until you get a solid positive before hitting it. The test puff tells you the entire bowl is at or very near working temperature. This is not what I think is happening in your case. You're getting vapor from only a small part of the load which then overheats before the rest of the load comes on line.

The goal in the 3 steps is to do each step in turn, not make vapor. That happens automatically at step 3 if one and two are right.

Good luck. My guess is it's technique not a problem with the unit or the herbs.

OF

Thank you OF.

I believe it is also my technique and the LL core is just fine. I think I am screwing up step 2 as you suggest, I have a much better mental image after your post. To fill in some blanks from my earlier post, I usually try the advanced technique after doing a bowl of loose pack so everything is very preheated with the second load. I have tried various packing from a pinch more flower and slight compression to more then double the amount of flower from a loose pack but never enough pack to restrict airflow too much.

Ok so I just successfully did a tighter packed bowl with out combustion, I was screwing up step 2. Still it took from a cold start 4min to get first vapor and it was pretty wispy, the cap and body get uncomfortable hot at the end of the bowl. The one pinch loose pack gets me vapor in under 1 min and I can do 3 bowls before the unit gets so hot it needs a rest. Obviously I still have much room for improvement.

OF if you or anybody wants to learn how to combust with the LL core just let me know, I am really good at it, lol.

Edit: so just timed a loose packed bowl, 42sec to first wisp of vape, entire load done in 4min to a medium brown.

 

[nopartofme]

Excellent point. If you want 'big clouds' use a fresh battery. Also grind it medium fine, dry it well and really pack it in. Give it a few more seconds at step 1 to get the core as hot as possible before going for a longer, steady step 2 (you want the entire load 'almost there') before you shift to step 3.

First off, don't pack it in, keep it open and flowing. We need to move lots of air for convection to work easily and normally.

I'm curious OF, did you change your mind on this? I'm probably just misunderstanding intent. I've combusted plenty of times with Cera, so perhaps I should take some of my approach back to the drawing board…

 

[Dreamerr]

I think it would help if someone who is really good at the steps and is willing to make a video explaining from start to finish including grinding and packing would be sooooooooooooooo helpful to those having issues. Who is up for the challenge?

 

[OF]

I'm curious OF, did you change your mind on this? I'm probably just misunderstanding intent. I've combusted plenty of times with Cera, so perhaps I should take some of my approach back to the drawing board…

No, not at all. Trying to help the fellow along, and it seems that might have happened? You need to work up to big clouds, leaning the skills needed to control the heating. You can't just 'buy bigger clouds' by following a different technique, it's a matter of degrees. Skipping ahead a few chapters doesn't work here. At least not always.

In the core we have 1300 plus degrees on tap, more than enough to start a fire. We need to take a fraction of that off in a controlled manner to cook our herbs. You don't plunger your marshmallow into the campfire willy nilly, right? Same logic I think.

Once you're getting good vapor and want more then it's time to start packing it more, drying more carefully, using the hottest battery in the box and so on. Doing that stuff before you can control it well will only make it harder, not easier, to get there.

It's normal for guys to want to rush over the first parts to get the bigger clouds they paid for and all, but not necessarily going to get you the results you seek, at least not right off.

OF

 

[JCat]

Thanks for the response. I still get flow when all holes are covered, but if I uncover the two in question airflow increases slightly and I can hear a whisper from them. When I initially emailed Zeki about this, he said assuming screws are installed right, he has no idea.

On my first EO cart there was definitely some airflow through the setscrew holes (as their was 100% none through the bottom ... after using for a bit, the flow on the set screws stopped as well ... maybe from overfilling it plugged or they just sealed up from heating/cooling cycles ... not surprised some air can get through along the threads though)

 

[nopartofme]

No, not at all. Trying to help the fellow along, and it seems that might have happened? You need to work up to big clouds, leaning the skills needed to control the heating. You can't just 'buy bigger clouds' by following a different technique, it's a matter of degrees. Skipping ahead a few chapters doesn't work here. At least not always.

Got it. Thanks for your time as always!

There's an LL Cera kit looking almost sold over in the classifieds. Someone's getting an awesome deal!

 

[OF]

Got it. Thanks for your time as always!

You're very welcome. Somehow it seems only fair when I start a bunch of confusion I at least try to clean some of it up......

Thanks.

OF