Thermal Accumulator by phattpiggie

alex91

Well-Known Member
Just my own personal preference, but if I could stretch to the extra cost, I'd get a MadHeaters Revolve2 spiral & mouthpiece and a wooden sleeve, to use as a TA stem. For the size it's got to be one of the best stems around for cooling and the wooden sleeve gives enough insulation to be comfortable to hold.

I already have the Stinger mouthpiece and I plan on using with the Blackwood instead of the Vortex I already have. Do you think it would be much worse than a Revolve 2 + Tempest wood sleeve?
 
alex91,

General Disaster

Of cabbages and Kings.
I already have the Stinger mouthpiece and I plan on using with the Blackwood instead of the Vortex I already have. Do you think it would be much worse than a Revolve 2 + Tempest wood sleeve?
Sadly I'm poorly qualified to say with any accuracy, the Revolve is my main stem experience, so I can mostly just wax lyrical about how impressed I was to get a gob-full of what felt like cold vapour! 😀
Not to mention the endless reviews at Madheaters (and elsewhere) extolling it's virtues, and those from people with more experience of other stems I reckon.
I'd imagine from what I (don't 😉) know about the Stinger, if your Stinger stem can cope with the Stinger, I'd expect the TA to be in a similar range of heat capacitance and be ok too.
Besides, if you already have that stem, what harm trying it out before spending your hard earned/stolen readies?
 
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emily

Well-Known Member
I already have the Stinger mouthpiece and I plan on using with the Blackwood instead of the Vortex I already have. Do you think it would be much worse than a Revolve 2 + Tempest wood sleeve?

I have had a Simrell MVS and I have a Tempest wood stem. The tempest stem has a similar design to the Revolve 2.

I was surprised to find that the Tempest stem cools the vapor considerably more than the Simrell. I don't know how Mad Heaters does it, but it cools the TA3 to the point where I wonder if I got any vapor, and then I blow out a giant cloud.
 

Rodney

Well-Known Member
If you use the Dani Fusion screens in the TA3 you get combustion if you heat it up even a bit too much. I combusted 3 times in a row and now only heat it until it glows slightly.

Maybe I will go back to normal screens.
 
Rodney,

General Disaster

Of cabbages and Kings.
If you use the Dani Fusion screens in the TA3 you get combustion if you heat it up even a bit too much. I combusted 3 times in a row and now only heat it until it glows slightly.

Maybe I will go back to normal screens.
But according to Chaos Theory, it could be that just that little bit extra butane you use tips the whole planetary weather system into total chaos and unpredictability! The vape session to end all vape sessions, literally! And we'll all know who's fault it was! 😬😉
 
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kegstandman420

Well-Known Member
this is my ta3 on a simrell vortex and a simrell wpa. I actually ordered his new brass stinger that just came out to make a full stem with the wpa. Both stems stay surprisingly cool with the ta3. I will say when I put the ta3 on my tempest with wooden sleeve that the mouthpiece was pretty hot by the end. The cooling unit definitely was doing it's job!
 

TedJones

Well-Known Member
I threw mine back on the Dovetail stem after it was in need of a good cleaning and set aside during a lot of wpa activity. This time left out the inter-cooler that was sliding around and wow, what a difference. Around 6-7 nice & easier pulls on a full bowl. :o Unfortunately chipped the MP with a fingernail & the wrong size o-ring when reassembling :doh:
 

Duba

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Mine is on a @Aezhenn wood and glass stem (it can be short or long like on the pic) and i really enjoy it. The long version have a more restrictive draw but the vapor production is awesome.
IMG-20241029-132920.jpg
 

Radwin Bodnic

Well-Known Member
Hey all,

I recently bought a new stem for my TA :
foto-no-exif.jpg


This is a fixed condenser all glass stem.
Previously I used a very simple glass one hitter as a stem. I quite liked it because it was easy to clean, flavorful, fully open and made of thick glass. But the stem could get real hot if chaining bowls at the point that I had to hold it by the first inch to be comfortable.

This is why I bought the new stem. And indeed the vapor only traveling through the inner condenser, the outer wall remains cool. And the mouthpiece is very comfortable. still not perfect though...

First, it has a noticeable restriction.
Then if I don't close the carb I get almost no vapor. Most of the air is coming from the carb, and yes the TA airflow disc is fully open.
Therefore I have to maintain my thumb or index on the carb as I hit, missing the double flow function. And this is not my favorite way to hold it (better with the thumb over the carb actually).

It's the first stem with a carb hole that I use. Do I miss something ?

The gap between the part of the TA bowl that goes inside the stem and the condenser is quite big (almost a centimeter).
Would shortening this gap (by shortening the stem) allows to adjust the vapor/air ratio (considering I don't want to close the carb) ?
Or is this thing just poorly designed ?

Thanks for the help.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Hey all,

I recently bought a new stem for my TA :
foto-no-exif.jpg


This is a fixed condenser all glass stem.
Previously I used a very simple glass one hitter as a stem. I quite liked it because it was easy to clean, flavorful, fully open and made of thick glass. But the stem could get real hot if chaining bowls at the point that I had to hold it by the first inch to be comfortable.

This is why I bought the new stem. And indeed the vapor only traveling through the inner condenser, the outer wall remains cool. And the mouthpiece is very comfortable. still not perfect though...

First, it has a noticeable restriction.
Then if I don't close the carb I get almost no vapor. Most of the air is coming from the carb, and yes the TA airflow disc is fully open.
Therefore I have to maintain my thumb or index on the carb as I hit, missing the double flow function. And this is not my favorite way to hold it (better with the thumb over the carb actually).

It's the first stem with a carb hole that I use. Do I miss something ?

The gap between the part of the TA bowl that goes inside the stem and the condenser is quite big (almost a centimeter).
Would shortening this gap (by shortening the stem) allows to adjust the vapor/air ratio (considering I don't want to close the carb) ?
Or is this thing just poorly designed ?

Thanks for the help.
It's hard to say if it would ever work the way a Dynavap would but with those, the condenser is slightly inside the tip, balanced between drawing from both sources. It might be possible to do as you suggest, cut the outer glass to a better length aimed at balance. To answer your other question, my glass stems with carb can only be used with the hole closed, sort of like a mini steamroller.
 

TedJones

Well-Known Member
The gap between the part of the TA bowl that goes inside the stem and the condenser is quite big (almost a centimeter).
Would shortening this gap (by shortening the stem) allows to adjust the vapor/air ratio (considering I don't want to close the carb) ?
Or is this thing just poorly designed ?
That’s how the XL dyna condenser sits in my wooden stem too. Found my Omni condenser and mouthpiece also fit (yea!) and that’s even further away. It’s going to be hard to get anything going without covering the carb (at least initially). A different feeling pull for sure but I’m getting used to it.
 

Radwin Bodnic

Well-Known Member
To answer your other question, my glass stems with carb can only be used with the hole closed, sort of like a mini steamroller.
Thanks for the heads up @coolbreeze.
Could you share examples of these stems ? In a message or another thread if it's off topic.

Your answer makes me wonder if shortening the outer tube will have any impact on the ratio of air passing through the thermal matrix or through the carb...

It might worth a try (this she costs 20€). But I don't even really know how to cut a borosilicate tube that thick. I'm pretty sure just marking the cut line with a file and levering the two parts won't work here...

It’s going to be hard to get anything going without covering the carb
So you hold the carb anytime ?
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the heads up @coolbreeze.
Could you share examples of these stems ? In a message or another thread if it's off topic.
Fwiw, I have broken a couple less-expensive glass WPAs so I'm using only thick glass stems now. These are examples that are mostly thick enough, I think:
IMG-0790.jpg

For the four stems to the right, the first two are carbed, the second two are not. The bluish one, the clear one next, and the green are very thick, and perfect for this I think. The two with marias are my top picks because those really arrest the spread of heat down the stem. My top choice, left, is very thick, has marias, no carb, and looks great! ; ) I think the green Aristocrat stem is probably the easiest to find and it's a thick stem. The carbed ones I tend to use with my Woodscents.
Your answer makes me wonder if shortening the outer tube will have any impact on the ratio of air passing through the thermal matrix or through the carb...

It might worth a try (this she costs 20€). But I don't even really know how to cut a borosilicate tube that thick. I'm pretty sure just marking the cut line with a file and levering the two parts won't work here...
Yeah, I would think it'd be difficult to get it just right. But the internal tube in yours may still have some cooling effect if it lengthens the path for some of the vapor and adds some turbulence, as in the grey OWW Inception stem.
So you hold the carb anytime ?
 

Electrofever

Well-Known Member
The gap between the part of the TA bowl that goes inside the stem and the condenser is quite big (almost a centimeter).
Would shortening this gap (by shortening the stem) allows to adjust the vapor/air ratio (considering I don't want to close the carb) ?
That would be an idea, but you would have to be super precise, the gap between the small glass condenser and the TA should leave more or less the same quantity of air passe through than what goes through the TA. So it does seem quite difficult to achieve correctly.
 

Cheebsy

Microbe minion
But I don't even really know how to cut a borosilicate tube that thick. I'm pretty sure just marking the cut line with a file and levering the two parts won't work here...
If you search YouTube for how to cut Boro tube you'll get a number of results, I think most of them wouldn't work great with your situation, the best option would be to score and then apply a molton blob of glass to the end of the score but i don't know if you have a torch string enough to get a blob... Do you have a Dremel or similar tool? You're best bet would be a diamond cutting disk. Cut a little long, then use the edge of the disk to grind off any extra you need. Flame polish after if you like.
 

Rodney

Well-Known Member
I started to use my TA3 today and have done extensive testing and am here to tell you all, DO NOT use dynavape or Dani Fusion 2 screens with the TA3 as even when you just heat it a little bit it will combust almost every time and it will give you not good vapour even when it does not combust.

so i switched to normal screens and you can heat it up loads with no combust and good vapour.

I tested and tested and now am high as a kite weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :p
 

General Disaster

Of cabbages and Kings.
I started to use my TA3 today and have done extensive testing and am here to tell you all, DO NOT use dynavape or Dani Fusion 2 screens with the TA3 as even when you just heat it a little bit it will combust almost every time and it will give you not good vapour even when it does not combust.

so i switched to normal screens and you can heat it up loads with no combust and good vapour.

I tested and tested and now am high as a kite weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :p
That kinda sounds like those screens are being directly heated by the induction? Putting a very hot screen very close to the weed?
Maybe steel instead of Ti?
 

Rodney

Well-Known Member
That kinda sounds like those screens are being directly heated by the induction? Putting a very hot screen very close to the weed?
Maybe steel instead of Ti?

Turned out that it WAS NOT the Dani Fusion 2 screen. It was a few bits of old gauze that had broken up and got caught in the bowl. They had loads of gunk on them.

This is why you should not be lazy like me when cleaning as this type of thing can happen. I was wondering why it kept blocking up after every use and when inhaling there was this hissing and bubbling sound when inhaling and lots of restriction..

It was like a little ball of gauze and gunk, this is the only way to describe it.
 

General Disaster

Of cabbages and Kings.
It was like a little ball of gauze and gunk, this is the only way to describe it.
Wow! Those are exactly the same words my brain surgeon used just before the anaesthetic took effect! 😄

(Luckily he shut up once it finally did take effect on him!)
 
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nicknobody

Well-Known Member
I threw mine back on the Dovetail stem after it was in need of a good cleaning and set aside during a lot of wpa activity. This time left out the inter-cooler that was sliding around and wow, what a difference. Around 6-7 nice & easier pulls on a full bowl. :o Unfortunately chipped the MP with a fingernail & the wrong size o-ring when reassembling :doh:
Sorry about the mouthpiece. My dovetail mp has also chipped a bunch. It really needs to be thicker around the xring.
 
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