Discontinued The Venus Apollo
- Thread starter villekille2
- Start date
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
Thank you for that short update.
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
Please do! I am chomping at my nails over this vape as well.
vapen00b
Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
Hey guys,
got news!
Here's an extract from villes mail:
[...] Yeah you can pass info, and I think it is true there community seemed amazing and it is possible to find solutions together! I cannot say yet any confirmation for dates, we will see! I'll try to get back there once I have little bit more time, now I am also organizing the production of Venus Vaporizer as I'm opening another production facility to keep up with the demand! About portable one, I think price will be in similar range as our current model Venus Vaporizer, 229-249 euros. [...]
That's all good news!
got news!
Here's an extract from villes mail:
[...] Yeah you can pass info, and I think it is true there community seemed amazing and it is possible to find solutions together! I cannot say yet any confirmation for dates, we will see! I'll try to get back there once I have little bit more time, now I am also organizing the production of Venus Vaporizer as I'm opening another production facility to keep up with the demand! About portable one, I think price will be in similar range as our current model Venus Vaporizer, 229-249 euros. [...]
That's all good news!
vapen00b
Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
Hi guys,
about the temperature settings and the question of 18mm mouth pieces:
[...] about temps, there are actually now 10 steps for the power setting, from 10 to 100% so I'm sure there are tems for the most delicate herbs under 100 degrees Celcius and for those who wish near combustion temps. To be honest I am now a little bit clueless how to get that 18mm mouth piece to this design and manufactured, I am open for ideas. [...]
If someone has a brainwave considering the 18mm mouth piece, feel free to post here or pm me. I'm passing it to ville asap.
Have a nice week end everyone!
about the temperature settings and the question of 18mm mouth pieces:
[...] about temps, there are actually now 10 steps for the power setting, from 10 to 100% so I'm sure there are tems for the most delicate herbs under 100 degrees Celcius and for those who wish near combustion temps. To be honest I am now a little bit clueless how to get that 18mm mouth piece to this design and manufactured, I am open for ideas. [...]
If someone has a brainwave considering the 18mm mouth piece, feel free to post here or pm me. I'm passing it to ville asap.
Have a nice week end everyone!
SlinginPaint
As Above ∞ So Below
This looks like it could be a great addition! Halogen heating element, almost like a portable Herbie with a glass air-path, AND a replaceable battery? I wonder what the battery life is like though...
btka
Well-Known Member
does he mean that he does not know where to source the 18mm glass stems?
SlinginPaint
As Above ∞ So Below
LOL was just wondering that myself.
If he means he does not know how to DESIGN the device to utilize an 18mm GonG, I'm sure FC can come up with something....
HELL, all you need it a 18mm GonG glass stem with a smaller diameter and a couple of perfectly-sized O-rings and slide it in tot he current glass stem?
vapen00b
Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
I think this has nothing to do with where to source the stems themselves.
As I understand, it's the design and everything that has to deal with it... And I guess it can be a lot - even more when design has been determined like it is - but sure I don't know.
About the o rings and gong I thought into the same direction. The outer diameter is 22mm, the inner one 18... So this wouldn't really fit with a 18mm gong, or would it? Only thing I could imagine is a 18mm male stem - with a smaller diameter, as u say, for the whole stem side- and put it upside down into the telescopic stock stem sealed with o rings - to attach a bubbler / water tool.
Some other kind of work around could be a short piece of silicone tube adapting to a 14mm gong. But that would restrict the air flow significantly I guess and kill the whole 22mm wide open experience
@Ratchett If you have something in mind, feel free to chime in. You're known for smart ideas
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I'd have to see the mouthpiece by itself to see what sort of ideas I can come up with..... What diameter is the MP? I'm thinking my Medium Nu-SonG would fit 
vapen00b
Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
@Ratchett: As far as I can tell it's 22mm outer diameter and 18mm inner. As soon as I get a more precise info I'm letting you know.
BTW: Do you have also kind of male-male songs? Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251911508917?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT ?
Cheers!
BTW: Do you have also kind of male-male songs? Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251911508917?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT ?
Cheers!
Gotcha, my Medium Nu-SonG might not work then... lol
No I don't make any M2M SonGs yet, but that's a good idea
vapen00b
Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
@Ratchett I'm sure m2m would greatly fit your product line up. Actually I thought you must have done that already. You sure gonna close a gap with it... Got several setups that needed a piece of silicone hose trimmed down to suit as connector/seal between glass pieces. But they aren't sturdy enough.
Would love to see m2m 18-18/ 14-14/18-14 mm ones.. Maybe even compatible to 10 mm?
Gonna pm you for one setup,.l don't wanna go too OT
Guys, Ville is gonna be back here very soon with quite some news on board.
Keep an eye out!
Would love to see m2m 18-18/ 14-14/18-14 mm ones.. Maybe even compatible to 10 mm?
Gonna pm you for one setup,.l don't wanna go too OT
Guys, Ville is gonna be back here very soon with quite some news on board.
Keep an eye out!
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello all again, and sorry for being away all summer!
So there are a couple of things I'd like to fix before release:
Wood around heating panel gets too warm in longer sessions if many people use the vaporizer and it doesn't have time to cool down. For this I have been trying to get ideas how to do it. Now the hot heating element, with its stainless steel tube at over 150-200 degrees Celcius is sitting inside the oak, and there is 2,5 mm separation between them. And because the wood doesn't have many mm material left on top and bottom side of the oak frame, the heat gets trough and can get uncomfortably hot to the touch.
I assume that the reason for this is that the airflow between wood and heating element is nearly non existent when nobody is inhaling from it, so there will be hot air standing there. And the bigger reason, is that a stainless steel tube that hot, is radiating infra red heat around quite a lot, and the oiled, dark coloured oak wook is absorbing this very well and the oil content in wood makes it conduct heat better than plain wood. so it is no wonder, that when we are doing tests with it and leaving it on for a table without any airflow, and running 10 minutes, the wood will feel painfully hot to the touch on the region over the heating element.
Now I have some ideas to combat against this. The positive thing is that none of the test users of my prototypes has said this is a real problem in use, or would lead to returning the unit, you don't really hold it from that part of the vaporizer, but I really would like to get it cooler.
I have read and seen how metallic reflective surfaces are used to block and reflect heat radiation from getting to more sensitive parts. this would make sense to install for example aluminium shield there, between heating element and the oak, so that it would prevent most heat radiation from directly reaching the oak. Of course the shield will get warm too, but nowhere near the temps of heating element and thus will radiate many times less energy towards the oak. And if this aluminum shield would be installed so that there is little airgap also between the heat shield and oak, the temperature transfer from conduction would be much less and I think these changes will lower the temperature of the wood considerably. If this is not enough, I think a small fan installed in the back, blowing air out and making air move trough the system can be used to control temps, and get the excess heat energy out of it after use.
I am now preparing drawings for new parts to try out these changes.
The other thing is, that there is a possibility for the user to burn his finger with the hot herb chamber. Normally you can hold it in your hand ergonomically from the upper part of so that you don't touch the herb chamber but it even happened to myself once or twice, that I was not paying attention and just grabbed the vape from the table without looking what I was doing, and the burning sensation of my finger made me remember to be more careful with it. So some for of protection would be nice to have so that everybody would not need to learn this lesson the painful way.
For this I am open for suggestions, how it could be implemented in this vaporizer. As well as all other things too of course, new ideas are always welcome!
About battery run time, about this I've heard positive comments from my testers, that extra set of batteries have not even been necessary as a single charge goes so far. I've never got to test how long it actually works but I made one test. There is automatic turn off of the unit, if it is idle for 4 minutes without touch. So it is some +6 minute session if turned on with warm up and the until automatic shut down. This is quite a long session as the vaporizer put outs massive clouds of vapor as soon as it is warmed and will medicate very quickly. But anyway, I just turned it on always after it had shut down, and after 12 times doing this and batteries still worked, I got tired and didn't get to see how many times they would have lasted. But I think best part of quickly replaceable batteries is that there is no need to worry if the batteries will have to be charged or not before vaping because it doesn't matter when you can just put new ones in anytime necessary and let the empty ones get charged without need to wait for that. And also, no need to worry about batteries wearing in use, they don't cost that much that it is worth worrying when you can always get new ones when necessary. And also possible to enjoy advancing battery technology with better capacity ones coming out every year.
I've been also thinking, how much to keep it as simple as possible and how much to give freedom to the user. Now there is possible to adjust pre-heating time quite freely to achieve different temperature levels automatically depending on the herbs used and the personal preferences. Also it is possible to change the power level of heating element in 10 steps, 10-100%. The only thing I see now which cannot be changed is the level of the boosting. Now, when user presses the boost, it will immediately put out the predetermined maximal power of the heating element. But to be honest, with the new improved halogen heating element, this is quite powerful and sometimes I felt that unlike the old one in the Venus Vaporizer, when it was possible to just boost always when taking a hit, now I had to sometimes release the boost in the middle, as the vapor started to get really strong and hot. So there is at least need to fine tune the power setting for boosting, But on the other hand, I would not like to restrict the capabilities of the heating element in case someone will find it useful. So maybe I could have also a setting for boost power level, for example 3 different, low, standard, and high.
So there are a couple of things I'd like to fix before release:
Wood around heating panel gets too warm in longer sessions if many people use the vaporizer and it doesn't have time to cool down. For this I have been trying to get ideas how to do it. Now the hot heating element, with its stainless steel tube at over 150-200 degrees Celcius is sitting inside the oak, and there is 2,5 mm separation between them. And because the wood doesn't have many mm material left on top and bottom side of the oak frame, the heat gets trough and can get uncomfortably hot to the touch.
I assume that the reason for this is that the airflow between wood and heating element is nearly non existent when nobody is inhaling from it, so there will be hot air standing there. And the bigger reason, is that a stainless steel tube that hot, is radiating infra red heat around quite a lot, and the oiled, dark coloured oak wook is absorbing this very well and the oil content in wood makes it conduct heat better than plain wood. so it is no wonder, that when we are doing tests with it and leaving it on for a table without any airflow, and running 10 minutes, the wood will feel painfully hot to the touch on the region over the heating element.
Now I have some ideas to combat against this. The positive thing is that none of the test users of my prototypes has said this is a real problem in use, or would lead to returning the unit, you don't really hold it from that part of the vaporizer, but I really would like to get it cooler.
I have read and seen how metallic reflective surfaces are used to block and reflect heat radiation from getting to more sensitive parts. this would make sense to install for example aluminium shield there, between heating element and the oak, so that it would prevent most heat radiation from directly reaching the oak. Of course the shield will get warm too, but nowhere near the temps of heating element and thus will radiate many times less energy towards the oak. And if this aluminum shield would be installed so that there is little airgap also between the heat shield and oak, the temperature transfer from conduction would be much less and I think these changes will lower the temperature of the wood considerably. If this is not enough, I think a small fan installed in the back, blowing air out and making air move trough the system can be used to control temps, and get the excess heat energy out of it after use.
I am now preparing drawings for new parts to try out these changes.
The other thing is, that there is a possibility for the user to burn his finger with the hot herb chamber. Normally you can hold it in your hand ergonomically from the upper part of so that you don't touch the herb chamber but it even happened to myself once or twice, that I was not paying attention and just grabbed the vape from the table without looking what I was doing, and the burning sensation of my finger made me remember to be more careful with it. So some for of protection would be nice to have so that everybody would not need to learn this lesson the painful way.
For this I am open for suggestions, how it could be implemented in this vaporizer. As well as all other things too of course, new ideas are always welcome!
About battery run time, about this I've heard positive comments from my testers, that extra set of batteries have not even been necessary as a single charge goes so far. I've never got to test how long it actually works but I made one test. There is automatic turn off of the unit, if it is idle for 4 minutes without touch. So it is some +6 minute session if turned on with warm up and the until automatic shut down. This is quite a long session as the vaporizer put outs massive clouds of vapor as soon as it is warmed and will medicate very quickly. But anyway, I just turned it on always after it had shut down, and after 12 times doing this and batteries still worked, I got tired and didn't get to see how many times they would have lasted. But I think best part of quickly replaceable batteries is that there is no need to worry if the batteries will have to be charged or not before vaping because it doesn't matter when you can just put new ones in anytime necessary and let the empty ones get charged without need to wait for that. And also, no need to worry about batteries wearing in use, they don't cost that much that it is worth worrying when you can always get new ones when necessary. And also possible to enjoy advancing battery technology with better capacity ones coming out every year.
I've been also thinking, how much to keep it as simple as possible and how much to give freedom to the user. Now there is possible to adjust pre-heating time quite freely to achieve different temperature levels automatically depending on the herbs used and the personal preferences. Also it is possible to change the power level of heating element in 10 steps, 10-100%. The only thing I see now which cannot be changed is the level of the boosting. Now, when user presses the boost, it will immediately put out the predetermined maximal power of the heating element. But to be honest, with the new improved halogen heating element, this is quite powerful and sometimes I felt that unlike the old one in the Venus Vaporizer, when it was possible to just boost always when taking a hit, now I had to sometimes release the boost in the middle, as the vapor started to get really strong and hot. So there is at least need to fine tune the power setting for boosting, But on the other hand, I would not like to restrict the capabilities of the heating element in case someone will find it useful. So maybe I could have also a setting for boost power level, for example 3 different, low, standard, and high.
Hey, it's good to see you back @villekille2! And that is a very interesting and informative update. Please, just don't leave it so long next time eh?
There are definitely ways and means around the heat issues you experiencing . . . and I am sure you will find them. Something tells me that you will likely get a slew of suggestions from the FC crowd right here . . . .
It's all part of the journey.
Good luck!
There are definitely ways and means around the heat issues you experiencing . . . and I am sure you will find them. Something tells me that you will likely get a slew of suggestions from the FC crowd right here . . . .
It's all part of the journey.
Good luck!
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
thanks for the update.
About the insulation. I believe milar is something that is being used for this with good results. Head over to the Zion thread to read more about it, I am sure they are using it for that purpose.
I don´t know about aluminium. This insulation material would be in the airpath?
About the diameter of the glass tube. I believe 22mm is also a diameter being used for standard gongs(I believe the new mobius glass use this diameter of connection on there new pieces). So maybe it would be a possibility to have the 22mm exit as a ground glass joint, giving users the posibilty to connect it to water with a simple glass reducer?
Another option would be to send one of your glass tubes to @Ratchett and see if he can come up with something, although I think me and many others here would prefere having an all glass option. Having both, a glass option and a printed one(when will they come up with a glass printer??) is off course the ideal...
About the insulation. I believe milar is something that is being used for this with good results. Head over to the Zion thread to read more about it, I am sure they are using it for that purpose.
I don´t know about aluminium. This insulation material would be in the airpath?
About the diameter of the glass tube. I believe 22mm is also a diameter being used for standard gongs(I believe the new mobius glass use this diameter of connection on there new pieces). So maybe it would be a possibility to have the 22mm exit as a ground glass joint, giving users the posibilty to connect it to water with a simple glass reducer?
Another option would be to send one of your glass tubes to @Ratchett and see if he can come up with something, although I think me and many others here would prefere having an all glass option. Having both, a glass option and a printed one(when will they come up with a glass printer??) is off course the ideal...
I knew it wouldn't take long for this to come up! But I think you mean the sheet silicate mineral - 'mica'.
Indeed. Good suggestion.
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
Yes, thank you for the correction!
The airpath of fresh air would be from two ways, mostly from the hole at the back panel, and partly from the opening where also the herb chamber is placed, between wood and heating element. Now I prepared the prototype batch without hole at the back panel, so all incoming air comes from the herb chamber opening and travels down to come up again. This works too, but it got hot and if I will put insulation there, the air space might become too small to have unrestricted vapor flow experience.
So, I think the opening at the back will be necessary and that is what I am now preparing in my design drawings. It will be also the easiest way for the air to get in, so I think most of fresh air will come from the back. What about heat shied material? Well, I think from technical standpoint the use of aluminium as a heat shield even if part of incoming air might contact it, is not a problem. Clean aluminum at some 40 degrees should not leach anything unwanted, it is not a heating element , just reflector. Of course this could be made of stainless steel also, but aluminum is easier to handle.
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
Dude, you have got me chomping at the bit. I hope we get some periodic updates, I want to be with this baby as it grows and develops!
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
Check out the mica material. I am sure it would work better then aluminium. If it is easy to work with I do not know.
When you do decide to use aluminium, please make sure it is as ´pure´ as can be. For sure you do not want to find out it might contain impurities like lead or something.
About mica, I actually cannot tell you more about it. I am sure if you contact @thekarmawhore (sure he will like this one too, a bit like the European approach to the Zion hihi, and I am sure he will like the light source for heat) he can tell you more about it.
Good to see you are back and on track!
When you do decide to use aluminium, please make sure it is as ´pure´ as can be. For sure you do not want to find out it might contain impurities like lead or something.
About mica, I actually cannot tell you more about it. I am sure if you contact @thekarmawhore (sure he will like this one too, a bit like the European approach to the Zion hihi, and I am sure he will like the light source for heat) he can tell you more about it.
Good to see you are back and on track!