The Toad from Morwood

[fangorn]

I love seeing the toads arrive in their new home!!
I love seeing the photos.
I love reading feedback.
... I love this step!!
Thanks guys !



for the question of changing the batteries, I also had these thoughts at the beginning... the fear of dropping the radiator, or the magnet which attracted my batteries!

using exclusively the toad at the moment, it was quickly settled! I too put my fingernail or my finger on the side of the radiator and secure it while I turn the Toad over to retrieve the battery! it has become instinctive. in the same way, I return the lower plate each time I finish a session.
Once upside down, I take out the stem, so as not to spill any crumbs, I blow into the stem, brush it... and it's over!
in short, if you use your toad often, it shouldn't be a problem for very long, finding reflexes / routines... but it's true that if it's used more rarely, I imagine that this impression of "preciousness ", this fear of dropping the radiator may persist...

@Shit Snacks
I don't pretend to give you advice... but with the heating low, I can now easily get many draws, or finish my load in 4 shots. this was all said by Dan and i know you know all this...but the warm-up time changes everything for me (depending on whether i let the heater cool down between puffs or not, and the voltage of the battery).
moreover, even if your blue stem is magnificent, I think that experimenting with the toad with the original stem, without the glass balls, is best, to feel the heat and learn to understand the toad... I I was too impatient and I was quick with this stage, before coming back to it for longer!

@datayoda
I don't know why but from the beginning, this Toad reminds me of Berlin...
your shot really shows it off!!

@Vaporware
where are the pictures of Toad Time Toad?!!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Good to hear your experience with the heater module design. I actually never considered the fact that the heater module is free to just slide in and out to be a negative, but I can see now that some people find it awkward. Perhaps that can be something to change for the future.

What I have always done is remove the bottom plate with the Toad upside down, then put my finger over the heater module as I flip it right side up and tap the battery out into my other hand

Yeah for my practical use, there's really no reason to remove the heater module, unless deep cleaning? And that is what I have been doing, careful to just touch the very edge of the module peek, but using the wood of the base plate is a bit better because otherwise finger oils get on the peek... And what I have been most concerned with, is avoiding touching the center pin in particular, cuz I don't want finger oils there to ruin the contact? I don't know if there is risk of touching the other end in the bottom plate though too...? I want minimal maintenance

That stem looks wonderful! How wide is the internal diameter of the chamber? Just curious

Yeah Phineas killed it obviously, I'll show off the other one too, but it's basically the same without the mouthpiece taper... The mesh screen is also pretty coarse, inner diameter 3/8 inch so pretty thick glass, definitely is a factor for different experience than the stock setup, I am liking the simplicity though for now, I will try I wouldn't stem and nomad glass stems of course and add the balls...

I usually swap my batteries around 3.6v, almost never under that, though.

Yeah I am usually able to do 3.7 or 3.8 at least, but 3.9 means I am relying on the quicker heat up and used to it, it does seem that I got the hotspot when I was trying to push it by holding it down for a long time at that level, but also drawing faster I suppose... Used to be really good with the slow draw thing from the old Milaana days, but newer ones got a more restrictive draw lol type of grind effects so much too!

 

[Dan Morrison]

@Shit Snacks ,

I think that unless you are swapping heaters often (which I am sure most people do when they first get their Toads), I think it's totally fine to just keep the heater module installed at all times. I pretty much leave mine installed continuously for months at a time now.

I do think it's probably best to keep your finger oils off the brass, but I don't think it's that big of a deal with the stainless heater module contacts. The brass is much more resistant to patina vs. the bronze on the OG Nomad 1s. I have not ran into any contact issues caused by patina yet.

When I remove the battery, I put my finger directly on the heater, right on top of the center pin.

Oil does increase contact resistance slightly (You won't notice it in use), but it depends on the thickness and contact area. With the domed pin hitting the spring loaded brass contact, I believe the tiny contact point provides enough force to pierce through the oil layer.

I do give my center pin a cleaning every now and then, but we are talking maybe once every couple months.

As far as maintenance goes, the only other thing I do is clean the brass contacts on the spring loaded contact bridge that is in the wooden bottom plate. I do this about once every couple months as well. I am fairly sure that the slight wiggle of the bottom plate scrapes these contacts clean with normal use.

I never clean the button contacts.

99% of contact issues is because of dust/debri thats been push up into the contact area between the stainless heater shell and the brass ring. This type of debri can be cleaned with alcohol and a qtip on both surfaces.

____

To test your Toad, every once in a while, do this.... Install a freshly charged battery and the high heater. Remove the stem. In a dark room, look down the stem hole at the heater. Using a timer on your phone, press the button and start the timer at the same time. As soon as you see the heater glowing the faintest red, look back at the timer and note the seconds. It should have taken around 10 seconds to start glowing a dim red. No need to go past a dim red. If it takes longer than 13 seconds, either your battery needs replacing, or one of the contacts needs a clean.

If you're ever in doubt, just do the test and you'll know.

After a test with an amp meter, I also do this simple visual test on all Toads and Nomads that go out the door. So I can confirm that all units test almost exactly the same at about 10 seconds.

____

Phineas definitely does nice work! And that does sound like a different experience with the thick glass/smaller diameter, but I imagine it's great for microdosing!

At around 3.9 - 3.7 I am probably pre-heating for around 5-8 seconds. @fangorn is right in that the pre-heat does indeed play a big role it.

But yes... pre-heat too long and you'll be running too hot right out of the gate I think.

@KeroZen, I do think that your air control method would work nicely, I'm going to be testing various methods for adding restriction in the next while and see what's best. For whatever reason I seem to like when the air restriction comes after the herb chamber.... in the stem itself. I'm not sure why, but it just feels different in some way, probably just placebo, haha.

 

[namasteIII]

@Shit Snacks If you glass is thicker than stock, I would imagine it also steals a bit more heat. Which could be contributing to your getting lower performance with higher voltage compared to Dans Numbers.

18650 is abundant and cheap, and toad is easy to swap. Especially when at home with full battery right next to you. No shame to swap early and enjoy peak performance.

@KeroZen ’s Idea for modular draw resistance is neat. I wonder how plausible moving parts like that are in the small available area?

I recall with my mistvape cooling stem the draw being to open, and I never fully enjoyed it because of that.

By now I’ve honed my technique on the stock stems, and a dirty stem actually helps adds some resistance, so a used one is a even better.

Still if I could add resistance I probably would. With a heater you can easily over power, and a fully free draw, they sort of work together to be an imperfect combo.

User draw regulation solves it, but it takes work.

Perhaps for restriction additives we could do something that attaches to the outside of the bottom plate? Has the benift of no heater redesign, and working for existing users. We all know a piece of tape and some holes is the technology. So just have to find a more elegant design. Maybe a snap on piece of wood over top heater hole, or snap in the actual hole. Could house a wood or PEEK spining disk thing like Kero talked about, so it’s adjustable not static.

Like I said its not needed, all one has to do is draw less hard. Still it would likey add comfort and versatility. With this one could add resistance as the voltage drops, makeing the performance decreases less noticeable, or requiring technique adjustment.

 

[Vaporware]

@Dan Morrison I’m not too bothered by the heater modules coming out so easily, but I do think that it would be ideal if they stayed in on their own.

If making the heater shell magnetic would hold it in when swapping the battery but still let you get it out without too much trouble that sounds like a great solution!

To add some draw restriction a couple of options that would work for existing users without modifications are:

1. A plug with variable airflow that fits into the air intake hole on the bottom, maybe something like @KeroZen suggested doing with the heater. I think that was one of @namasteIII ‘s suggestions too.

2. A mouthpiece that can be inserted in the end of the stem with a smaller inner diameter. This could also have variable airflow, but if there is a size that would provide optimal restriction for most people that might work almost as well.

@fangorn I do have some pictures already, but I want to take a few that are more interesting ones once I can use it, and I plan to include them with my first thoughts on using it myself. The surgeon thinks I should wait at least another week or so though…

On the bright side, that means the thread will get some new pictures a little while after most of the new Toads show up!

 

[Stu]

For whatever reason I seem to like when the air restriction comes after the herb chamber.... in the stem itself. I'm not sure why, but it just feels different in some way, probably just placebo, haha.

If you place the restriction after the herb, then you don't get the benefit of vaping at a lower pressure which would boil off the trichs at a lower temperature (like a carb cap does).

 

[im not a robot]

this thread is a joy to follow. the beautiful images would be plenty of reason. but there is an almost collaborative atmosphere here, which seems amazing given what a singular vape the toad is. it is in the communication style i guess. wonderful to have @Dan Morrison be so open & responsive to discuss the evolvement of the toad, wonderful to see so many creative & constructive posts by current or future toad holders. i am an amateur, still very new to this thread, just happy to be on this list.

I've toyed with the idea of making some sort of training wheels... maybe a stem that whistles, or some kind of flow meter... something to reveal the optimal inhalation speed.

i have zero experience with unregulated vaporisers, so i think this could be helpful when getting started. i think i would get greatly annoyed with sth that whistles at me. but maybe thats the incentive i will need?

I'll probably try to find a way to add air restriction into future Toads in some way.

that would be great.. i am in the minority i think, but generally i prefer high restriction.

 

[Ramahs]

1. Insertion of the stem (wood) feels really smooth
2. My button feels like I would expect
3. Flavor is good (B+) but the stem would benefit from a cooling mechanism
4. Cloud vapor is good and has a great feel when you hit it just right
5. Unregulated but mastering is not too hard. Would be the perfect device if it were regulated.
6. The paper feel is legendary
7. I miss the haptic feedback from a device like TM (could this be added aftermarket somehow?)
8. Perfect device for micro dosing during the day rather than long sessions with friends

I LOVE the artwork on that one. That is one beautiful Toad, my friend!

I can say the heater module does not stay in place at all so it is actually pretty tedious to have to carefully keep it in place (without letting finger get anywhere near the pin

I don't understand. When I change the battery, I just put my finger over the heater module and dump the battery.

My finger is over the center post, of course, but what's wrong with that? I've never had any contact problems there from skin oils or anything...So I feel the need to ask, what issue are you referring to?

 

[Shit Snacks]

I don't understand. When I change the battery, I just put my finger over the heater module and dump the battery.

My finger is over the center post, of course, but what's wrong with that? I've never had any contact problems there from skin oils or anything...So I feel the need to ask, what issue are you referring to?

If you see previous posts here (+nomad), and in Dan's reply he explained all, that there is no issue, but why I thought there was...

 

[Zagala]

Congratulations to all happy owners of a Toad. I asked to be added to Dan’s wait list yesterday for both the Toad and the Nomad, and I am so thrilled that one of these beauties will be in my hands someday and be an addition to the devices I treasure. Not that I really need another device but being an old art lover I just could not resist and I am happy I jumped in. The wait does not bother me when it comes to something that seems so unique! I will head to the Nomad thread and get into learning more…To all great members: Happy roasting for now.

 

[Arawfish]

I can definitely attest to a tighter draw restriction creating the perfect conditions for repeatable performance every bowl.

First hit with a cold coil I do a 6 second count before I start drawing, and about 3-4 seconds for every subsequent re-heat. No combustion events except for 1 time on the first day.

I load my stem like I do a dynavap, just shove the end into my grinder and fix it up all pretty with my finger. No hot spots but I do turn the stem a quarter rotation every hit, and because I pack so full I usually get 3-4 lung busters followed by a couple thin lizzies per bowl.

 

[Vapetrees]

All of Batch 2 is shipped now. Really looking forward to everyone's thoughts!

Here are some more Toads from a new batch,

The cool thing about the ordering process is that I get to see which designs are most popular among everyone's picks. I can lean on that info when deciding which designs to paint.

I discovered a new technique for laser printing onto very thin washi. The pigment is deposited onto the backside of the washi, so that when it's glued onto the Toad shell, the pigment is embedded inside of the shell and shows through the transparent washi layer. For Toads that require text, I think this will be a cool technique to use. In this batch I used it for the retro-future orange and cream Toad.

________

037 - Worn leather look + my signature stamp - lichen button.

039 - Green fade - yellow and grey lichens.

042 - Retro-future, label says, "Toad" in Japanese. Other info explains the toad batch number, unit number, and heater resistance value of 0.065ohms. Ancient bog oak button.

040 - Abstract, pottery inspired - lichen button.

045 - Misty mountain pine - This one features a button made from mammoth ivory. Somewhere between 10,000 and 100,000 yrs old. Canadian origin.

038 - Ancient oak tree - yellow lichen on tree bark button.

043 - Ghostly mushrooms - greenish lichen button.

041 - Sky blue fade - abalone button.

044 - Looking up at the stars - abalone button

046 - This one was not part of the official batch, I made it custom for a friend. Minimalist landscape - beetle shell button

And, Toad stats from Batch 4:

Top 3 Most Popular (ranked system – top choice = 5 points, last choice = 1 point)

• No. 038 - Ancient oak tree
• No. 045 - Misty mountain pine
• No. 044 - Looking up at the stars

There were 9 available Toads to choose from for this batch. Of those 9, 4 people got their first choices, and 3 people got their second choice, and 2 people decided to wait until the next batch.

I'll be offering out 040 (abstract pottery) and 041 (sky blue fade) to the waitlist via the Toad lottery - so those who are on the waitlist can watch out for that email today!

Those are beautiful how does one get on the list to buy one?

 

[Ramahs]

Those are beautiful how does one get on the list to buy one?

PM @Dan Morrison

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah, slow draw is the way, much better extraction, used to be so good at this and then I got more and more comfortable with faster draws in other devices, feels nice to be back to the slow sip deep inhale! Still using my custom stem, yeah it is a super microdoser, wish I had a little dugout for it!

 

[goldfinger]

Yeah, slow draw is the way, much better extraction, used to be so good at this and then I got more and more comfortable with faster draws in other devices, feels nice to be back to the slow sip deep inhale! Still using my custom stem, yeah it is a super microdoser, wish I had a little dugout for it!

How's the hit? How does it compare to other on-demand heavy hitters?

I'm curious and excited lol.

 

[Shit Snacks]

How's the hit? How does it compare to other on-demand heavy hitters?

I'm curious and excited lol.

Haha it is very nice, we're not supposed to do comparisons, and that is just too broad, like I said before this is totally unique, despite similarities being glass stem-based pure convection on demand with a single unregulated 18650 battery and metal ribbon heater, the experience is entirely unique? Nice vapor quality, strong vapor signature

 

[passenger]

I have some ideas in the ol' notebook that's for sure! [...] In a way, I'm seeing the Toad as a possible core unit that could adapt to fun new add-ons, kinda like a Lego brick. But we will have to see... ha. For now they're just ideas!

This I find very interesting! Do you have a progress on it inbetween @Dan Morrison ?

 

[Dan Morrison]

@passenger, Oh, I'm always working on these things!

With the Toad, I've found that it's already a pretty tidy little package. I reallly like having everything contained in the fabric case, and the super simple operation. So I'm trying to be careful not to add any unnecessary "fluff" to the design. It's simplicity and portability are it's strong points.

I have been VERY interested in adding a concentrates friendly add-ons. At first I thought that this would arrive in the form of a different heater module, but now I am realizing that it's likely better to focus on adapting concentrates to work with the same convection heaters that I already use.

One thing I am very turned off by are "all-in-one" devices that claim to do everything... but in reality only do one thing well... and those other things poorly. I wouldn't want to force a dab-rig style heater into the Toad if it's not going to be able to compete with dedicated portable dab rigs on the market currently. This pretty much killed the "heated cup" style of heaters I was thinking about.

But, I have found a way to vaporize concentrates with the convection heat source, without needing to crank the temp up or sandwich it between herb/cotton. I think my method brings something new to the market, and expands the functionality of the stock heater... which I will always continue to improve upon batch after batch.

My method for convection vaporizing concentrates uses very thin washi paper (100% cellulose, unbleached, handmade) that is pre-saturated with whatever type of concentrate you have. The paper is cut into thin strips and stored. You can prep a large batch at once.

When you want to pack a chamber, you just take a little pinch of paper strips, ball them up into something that looks like a loose tumbleweed, and pack that into the chamber.

I know that sounds like a whole....thing.... but trust me, I think it's worth it for the end results. This "hash paper" I am calling it, vaporizes amazingly.

The issue with heating any concentrate with convection heat is that it's extremely difficult to penetrate a liquid or semi-liquid with the heat. Hash will ball up, run, or saturate whatever medium it's contained in. When liquid saturates a fibrous medium, airways are blocked. What results is that you're getting poor airflow, low surface area contact with the heat, and with semi-melt hashes, you'll end up with an outer crust that is carbonized, with a center that is hardly vaporized at all. Yes, you can vaporize hash this way... but I always feel like I'm not getting optimal flavor throughout the experience... or that I have to fight with the hash in some way.... stirring it, smearing it...breaking it up...etc...

With non-fibrous mediums like ceramic sponge or SS mesh, you may still be getting clogged airflow as the hash melts... but you're also introducing a ton of mass into the chamber that needs to be heated up to vaporization temps.... this requires more heat.

What the hash paper does is spread out whatever concentrate you're using into an incredibly thin layer and provides a huge amount of surface area contact with the heated air. There is no balling up, airflow blocking or dripping of liquid. When the session is over, it appears as if the paper has simply dried out. It remains off-white, and feels like dry paper to the touch.

This method works with whatever style of concentrate you have. The process of making the hash paper involves pressing the concentrate between layers of washi under a low heat (using a glass filled with hot water). The low heat gently melts the concentrate and allows it to fully soak into the paper. The paper can then be cut into thin strips with scissors. During this process, traditional hashes are essentially "filtered"... or in a way... turned into hash rosin. You end up with a bunch of paper soaked with clear rosin, and a single sheet of paper soaked in rosin and coated in whatever plant material that was in the hash. All of this paper can be used, so there is no waste.

One idea I have is to sell a little kit that you can use to easily make this hash paper at home.

You could use said hash paper in any convection device, Toad included of course.

________________________________________

I've also been developing an entirely new stem system that includes the ability to use capsules. Basically, I want to break down the stem into three parts. The mouthpiece, the center section for cooling, and the herb chamber/capsule.

The mouthpiece will likely be wood (The feel of wood is best IMO) lined with silver or titanium tube. The center section will be a thin-walled tube, made from titanium. This center section can be left empty, or filled with cooling beads. The herb chamber or capsule will be glass.

The glass herb chamber/capsule is the key here.

This glass capsule can be permanently installed, and used just like the OG stem, or... with multiple glass capsules, they can be swapped in and out like a capsule system.

Each capsule is essentially a short (about 10mm long) glass tube with one or both ends capped with a filter disc made from washi paper that is glued to the rim of the glass with organic gum arabic or starch glue, otherwise known as joint rolling/cigar glue.

I know that sounds wild, but stay with me.... By gluing the washi to the glass, you can get an incredibly compact capsule with absolutely perfect particle filtering, way better than SS screens. It's completely tasteless as well.

The glue is standard joint rolling glue, available in many formats, including a pen style that makes it super easy to apply the glue to the glass rim.

I would sell pre-cut washi discs in packs, similar to a pack of rolling papers. If possible, pre-applying the glue to each paper disc would be neat, so all you would need to do is wet the rim of the glass and stick a disc on there. The water re-activates the glue, exactly like how it works when rolling a joint.

I think I would also need to sell some sort of jig that holds the capsule for easy loading and gluing of the paper discs. Not sure on this part yet.... but it needs to be as easy and fast as possible.

Each glass capsule can be loaded, and you can either use the capsule with one end open.... or you can cap both ends with washi paper to seal the contents inside. This would allow you to pack a lot of capsules into a portable container, without worrying about material falling out of the capsules.

These capsules are super easy to keep clean as well, toss in ISO or water and the glue dissolves and the paper discs just fall right off. There are no threads or friction joints or metal screens to fiddle around with.

Going back to the concentrates idea.... filling these capsules with hash paper gives you a very portable and clean way to take convection dabs. The hash paper vaporizes completely with zero mess in the chamber. The spent capsules basically just looks like a glass tube with strips of dry, off-white paper balled up inside, the paper doesn't even turn brown.

Anyhow, that's what I've been working on... I don't know if it's actually going to go anywhere, but we will see! Definitely open for comments and criticisms!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Sounds very cool @Dan Morrison! FYI Prrl Neo came out with a nice organic concentrate pad recently, interesting!

 

[Dan Morrison]

@Shit Snacks, whoa! Looks cool. That material is luffa I think. I'm sure those would work nicely!

I suppose the difference with luffa vs washi is that the washi is pre-soaked and stored, and allows the use of hard hashes.... but with the downside of needing to actually make the hash paper ahead of time.

I will say that when I pack a chamber with hash paper it looks very similar to that luffa pad.

 

[Jill NYC]

@Shit Snacks, whoa! Looks cool. That material is luffa I think. I'm sure those would work nicely!

I suppose the difference with luffa vs washi is that the washi is pre-soaked and stored, and allows the use of hard hashes.... but with the downside of needing to actually make the hash paper ahead of time.

I will say that when I pack a chamber with hash paper it looks very similar to that luffa pad.

Yeah, I use these and can get extremely tasty hits even from lowest temps - definitely best tasting and easiest to use for concentrates with my limited concentrate usage.
I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

 

[FlyingLow]

Toad is the ULTIMATE concert vape.
Personal, pocketable, no lights, nothing to fail, easy to load/refill in dark, PERFECTION!

 

[SonicBacon]

@passenger, Oh, I'm always working on these things!

With the Toad, I've found that it's already a pretty tidy little package. I reallly like having everything contained in the fabric case, and the super simple operation. So I'm trying to be careful not to add any unnecessary "fluff" to the design. It's simplicity and portability are it's strong points.

I have been VERY interested in adding a concentrates friendly add-ons. At first I thought that this would arrive in the form of a different heater module, but now I am realizing that it's likely better to focus on adapting concentrates to work with the same convection heaters that I already use.

One thing I am very turned off by are "all-in-one" devices that claim to do everything... but in reality only do one thing well... and those other things poorly. I wouldn't want to force a dab-rig style heater into the Toad if it's not going to be able to compete with dedicated portable dab rigs on the market currently. This pretty much killed the "heated cup" style of heaters I was thinking about.

But, I have found a way to vaporize concentrates with the convection heat source, without needing to crank the temp up or sandwich it between herb/cotton. I think my method brings something new to the market, and expands the functionality of the stock heater... which I will always continue to improve upon batch after batch.

My method for convection vaporizing concentrates uses very thin washi paper (100% cellulose, unbleached, handmade) that is pre-saturated with whatever type of concentrate you have. The paper is cut into thin strips and stored. You can prep a large batch at once.

When you want to pack a chamber, you just take a little pinch of paper strips, ball them up into something that looks like a loose tumbleweed, and pack that into the chamber.

I know that sounds like a whole....thing.... but trust me, I think it's worth it for the end results. This "hash paper" I am calling it, vaporizes amazingly.

The issue with heating any concentrate with convection heat is that it's extremely difficult to penetrate a liquid or semi-liquid with the heat. Hash will ball up, run, or saturate whatever medium it's contained in. When liquid saturates a fibrous medium, airways are blocked. What results is that you're getting poor airflow, low surface area contact with the heat, and with semi-melt hashes, you'll end up with an outer crust that is carbonized, with a center that is hardly vaporized at all. Yes, you can vaporize hash this way... but I always feel like I'm not getting optimal flavor throughout the experience... or that I have to fight with the hash in some way.... stirring it, smearing it...breaking it up...etc...

With non-fibrous mediums like ceramic sponge or SS mesh, you may still be getting clogged airflow as the hash melts... but you're also introducing a ton of mass into the chamber that needs to be heated up to vaporization temps.... this requires more heat.

What the hash paper does is spread out whatever concentrate you're using into an incredibly thin layer and provides a huge amount of surface area contact with the heated air. There is no balling up, airflow blocking or dripping of liquid. When the session is over, it appears as if the paper has simply dried out. It remains off-white, and feels like dry paper to the touch.

This method works with whatever style of concentrate you have. The process of making the hash paper involves pressing the concentrate between layers of washi under a low heat (using a glass filled with hot water). The low heat gently melts the concentrate and allows it to fully soak into the paper. The paper can then be cut into thin strips with scissors. During this process, traditional hashes are essentially "filtered"... or in a way... turned into hash rosin. You end up with a bunch of paper soaked with clear rosin, and a single sheet of paper soaked in rosin and coated in whatever plant material that was in the hash. All of this paper can be used, so there is no waste.

One idea I have is to sell a little kit that you can use to easily make this hash paper at home.

You could use said hash paper in any convection device, Toad included of course.

________________________________________

I've also been developing an entirely new stem system that includes the ability to use capsules. Basically, I want to break down the stem into three parts. The mouthpiece, the center section for cooling, and the herb chamber/capsule.

The mouthpiece will likely be wood (The feel of wood is best IMO) lined with silver or titanium tube. The center section will be a thin-walled tube, made from titanium. This center section can be left empty, or filled with cooling beads. The herb chamber or capsule will be glass.

The glass herb chamber/capsule is the key here.

This glass capsule can be permanently installed, and used just like the OG stem, or... with multiple glass capsules, they can be swapped in and out like a capsule system.

Each capsule is essentially a short (about 10mm long) glass tube with one or both ends capped with a filter disc made from washi paper that is glued to the rim of the glass with organic gum arabic or starch glue, otherwise known as joint rolling/cigar glue.

I know that sounds wild, but stay with me.... By gluing the washi to the glass, you can get an incredibly compact capsule with absolutely perfect particle filtering, way better than SS screens. It's completely tasteless as well.

The glue is standard joint rolling glue, available in many formats, including a pen style that makes it super easy to apply the glue to the glass rim.

I would sell pre-cut washi discs in packs, similar to a pack of rolling papers. If possible, pre-applying the glue to each paper disc would be neat, so all you would need to do is wet the rim of the glass and stick a disc on there. The water re-activates the glue, exactly like how it works when rolling a joint.

I think I would also need to sell some sort of jig that holds the capsule for easy loading and gluing of the paper discs. Not sure on this part yet.... but it needs to be as easy and fast as possible.

Each glass capsule can be loaded, and you can either use the capsule with one end open.... or you can cap both ends with washi paper to seal the contents inside. This would allow you to pack a lot of capsules into a portable container, without worrying about material falling out of the capsules.

These capsules are super easy to keep clean as well, toss in ISO or water and the glue dissolves and the paper discs just fall right off. There are no threads or friction joints or metal screens to fiddle around with.

Going back to the concentrates idea.... filling these capsules with hash paper gives you a very portable and clean way to take convection dabs. The hash paper vaporizes completely with zero mess in the chamber. The spent capsules basically just looks like a glass tube with strips of dry, off-white paper balled up inside, the paper doesn't even turn brown.

Anyhow, that's what I've been working on... I don't know if it's actually going to go anywhere, but we will see! Definitely open for comments and criticisms!

This hash paper sounds awesome and I love the glass capsule idea. Could we use the hash paper as the capsule screen for a twax hit? or would that restrict the airflow too much?

 

[Dan Morrison]

@SonicBacon, A single disc of the washi paper doesn't hold much concentrate, and the airflow is not great. A better option would probably be to scrunch up a wad of hash paper strips and place it ontop of the herb. I'll have to test that out!

Actually.. I also wonder if you could just mix the paper strips and herb together... hmmm.

The hash paper and capsule screen papers will likely be different thicknesses as well... the screen paper can be super thin...almost looks like a cobweb....transparent thin.

_____

How is everyone feeling about the 11mm internal diameter of the herb chamber these days? I have been thinking about going a tad wider.. maybe 14 or 15mm. For reference, the Tinymight stem is 14mm internal diameter.

 

[Vaporware]

I think 11mm ID stems work for me, but larger would be good too.

Maybe 14mm with 21700 (or whatever the best out there is now) batteries since I assume it would require a little size increase?

Excited about modular stems, capsules and hash paper! We barely touched on the last topic in the Convection thread several months ago, but it sounds like you’ve been working on it! I didn’t even realize what you meant by hash paper at the time…

I’d have to think about potential improvements on the ideas you talked about, but they already sound good!