Discontinued The Timber Elite by Vapwood

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Those pictures from yesterday I showed you with my settings were done with the Ohms that I settled on in TC, btw. Not the stock settings.

If it's peaking at 413 during a draw with a set temp of 400f with ohms at 0.305, imagine how it would have been at stock ohms, 0.32

I'm not trying to discount anyone's testing, I just want the best experience for ME.


Also I did see that 20s timeout thing, but screen still shuts off after 10s. Guess I was worried no screens = no powah

To increase puff time in escribe.

Open escribe and make sure you are in manufacture mode. (toolbar under options user interface)

Then got to safety tab increase maxs puff time to 20 seconds.

The click mod tab under it is another safety tab increase manufacture maxs puff time to 20 seconds.

The screen light clicks off after 10 seconds I never felt that needed changed in settings. It's in the theme designer under appearance screen fading. Keep in mind it's just a set time for screen to go dark after any button is clicked i.e. not relate to maxs puff time.


I'm not trying to discount anyone's testing, I just want the best experience for ME.

I really think there's been a misunderstanding btw me and Mike on how to correctly adjusting the material resistance value with the cold coil resistance values.

You should be using the correct cold ohms for the device instead of changing the cold resistance. If it's running too hot you will get a better experience with changing the material file instead of adjusting the cold ohms. Elite hot material file is around 109 TCR if that helps.

TCR value can be used to increased or decreased the temperature...but it all based on having the correct cold OHM resistance of the coil. You can change the cold OHMS but really it's not the ideal method to use.

I thought Mike was adjusting TCR per device and I must have misunderstood his PM concerning adjusting the cold OHMs. My suggestion was to include each units cold OHMs already preset. Sorry about the confusion this has lead too. I want you to get best experience possible so hopefully this corrected info helps you achieve that goal :)

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/
 

P.A.M.

Vapo Rising
It's possible mike does have cold ohm of batch 2 units . . He had mentioned keeping a journal/Log book page for each LB .
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
You should be using the correct cold ohms for the device instead of changing the cold resistance. If it's running too hot you will get a better experience with changing the material file instead of adjusting the cold ohms. Elite hot material file is around 109 TCR if that helps.

Ohhhhhhhh I got you. This does help. I was just worried I had upset you by changing it and didn't want any issues lol. I do see your point about there being an easier way, and admitted changing the ohms is a hamfisted way to fix it - I just need to mess with escribe I bet.

FWIW - I did change my coil material to "elite cool" on the first night (and kept it that way since). It wasn't until Sunday morning I messed with the ohms. I had 1 combustion, and 1 near combustion in TC on Saturday night before changing the ohms. All good in TC since.

I should get on escribe so hopefully I can help some.

I do appreciate all the work you have done, @HerbieVonVapster so hopefully no foul! :cheers: I do appreciate @funkyjunky efforts with the Tubo, and his encouragement for tinkering. Of course I don't know the Elite's process, but each coil with the Tubo varies, so messing with the Ohms helps to dial in each unit for the user, and is encouraged.

The tubo also uses a custom firmware - so I am wondering if maybe @funkyjunky will chime in.
 
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Ohhhhhhhh I got you. This does help. I was just worried I had upset you by changing it and didn't want any issues lol. I do see your point about there being an easier way, and admitted changing the ohms is a hamfisted way to fix it - I just need to mess with escribe I bet.

FWIW - I did change my coil material to "elite cool" on the first night (and kept it that way since). It wasn't until Sunday morning I messed with the ohms. I had 1 combustion, and 1 near combustion in TC on Saturday night before changing the ohms. All good in TC since.

I should get on escribe so hopefully I can help some.

I do appreciate all the work you have done, @HerbieVonVapster so hopefully no foul! :cheers: I do appreciate Ralph @funkyjunky efforts with the Tubo, and his encouragement for tinkering. Of course I don't know the Elite's process, but each coil with the Tubo varies, so messing with the Ohms helps to dial in each unit for the user, and is encouraged.

The tubo also uses a custom firmware - so I am wondering if maybe @funkyjunky will chime in.

Not at all, I was more upset that your experience wasn't up to par and wanted rule out what is causing the difference in our elites.

Making sure you are set up correctly is what I care about. I would much rather hear something is off than think it correct when it isn't. The feedback from other is extremely important. I'll much rather hear whats wrong and work to figure out where it can be improved.
no foul at all ;)
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
Not at all, I was more upset that your experience wasn't up to par and wanted rule out what is causing the difference in our elites.

Making sure you are set up correctly is what I care about. I would much rather hear something is off than think it correct when it isn't. The feedback from other is extremely important. I'll much rather hear whats wrong and work to figure out where it can be improved.
no foul at all ;)

Watts worked perfect, and I mean a-ok, kiss-the-fingers type good, out of the box.

TC was where I started to dig, and that's only because the few folks I know were interested in the TC capabilities.

I think I got mine running OK and accurately enough. I tried hitting "resample" on the coil earlier today, while unit was at room temp, and it was very close to where I has landed messing around on my own.

I noticed messing with cold ohms in one profile does not affect the others... I am interested to know if I could get mirror performance at 0.32 ohms (stock) in TC if I edited the TCR values in escribe... I will start messing with it tonight.


Here is a bowl I did at 445F from the start... I brushed the top half of the load off,to show how thoroughly cooked it was. nice and even on the inside:

JPEG_20190415_173832.jpg



.304~ is where I am settling - FWIW. Elite cool is my coil material. Preheat turned off
 
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Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Good morning,

@HerbieVonVapster said it right, the Elite has me *spoiled*. I am in love with Booster mode. It's a simple power setting which I usually set to 26 watts and just leave it. The key is the boost, which bumps the coil up to speed really quick for rapid vapor extraction, but then after a second it drops to the selected wattage to smooth things out. Nice effect.

The discussion over cold ohm and TCR (temp coefficient of resistance) settings can get complicated, especially when dealing with lots of units. Coils can all be a hair different. Even the outside air temp can have a minor effect on things. My resistance selection of .32 is easily adjustable. The deeper TCR setting is also adjustable with the help of some guidance and the Escribe software. Neither of these things are really *technical issues*, but rather options.

To break my *testing*, I had to jump out of TC mode, to the simple watts. Now, I love it so much, I can't go back.

Vape on Elitists...
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
TC was where I started to dig, and that's only because the few folks I know were interested in the TC capabilities.

I think I got mine running OK and accurately enough. I tried hitting "resample" on the coil earlier today, while unit was at room temp, and it was very close to where I has landed messing around on my own.

I noticed messing with cold ohms in one profile does not affect the others... I am interested to know if I could get mirror performance at 0.32 ohms (stock) in TC if I edited the TCR values in escribe... I will start messing with it tonight.


Here is a bowl I did at 445F from the start... I brushed the top half of the load off,to show how thoroughly cooked it was. nice and even on the inside:
JPEG_20190415_173832.jpg


That looks more like what I would expect to see AVB wise :)

Having the different profiles might have added to the confusion. In the DNAc each profile uses a separate cold OHM value. It designed for use with different e-cig addys.

Basically each profile has it's own separate settings. With having 8 different profiles this allows for a ton of customized setting. When testing 12 elites I could see a incorrect OHM value possibly been transformed to the wrong profile. It was a totally of 96 different profiles Mike adjusted over 12 Elites well medicating. Since the coils where a close to same in this batch it might have caused my misunderstanding of what Mike PM me where he was setting cold OHMs at.

Here is some more details from
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/
I highlighted the most important aspect.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It is extremely important that when you attach an atty to your mod that the atty is cooled down to the current ambient temperature. Just to give you an indication of the sensitivity we are talking about, consider the following example. You have an SS coil installed, with a resistance of 0.5 Ohm, at the current ambient temperature of 28 °C (your mod will most likely assume it at 20 °C, but the 8 ° difference won’t hurt us much). You take a toot or two on it - and the coil temperature jumps to 240 °C, with a resistance of 0.68 Ohm. If you remove and reconnect your atty (and stating that it is a ‘new coil’ - more on this in the next paragraph), your mod will think the base resistance is 0.68 Ohm at 20 °C. If you hit it now, it will go up to what the mod thinks is 220 °C, but the resistance will be 0.86 Ohm, which in reality will be ~400 °C. In other words, you will get one hell of a dry hit, and most likely some fire from the atty as well. This is a drastic example, but take my word that even a change of 0.05 Ohm of the base resistance can lead to very large (40 to 100 °C) changes in the measured temperature in comparison to the actual temperature. This will either lead to a dry hit when the mod thinks it is still safe, or practically no vapour at all.

Your mod determines the cold resistance when you connect an atty - it assumes the atty is sufficiently cooled down. However, this is not always practical - maybe you have an atty that you have to remove in order to refill, but don’t want to wait 10 minutes before you reconnect it. For this reason, almost all TC mods have a check when you connect an atty. It will generally ask you “Is this a new coil? Y or N?” prompted by a left or right button press. If you say “no” it will use the previously determined last cold resistance which it used. If you say “yes” it will read the resistance of the atty, and use that value as the cold resistance. Note that most mods have an undocumented function where you can reset the cold resistance (or at least reset the prompt) by disconnecting your atty, then hitting the fire button (with no atty connected). Doing so will result in your mod always asking whether your coil is new when you reconnect it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In FCSHARE profiles I remove the cold OHM value to force a remeasure. With the elite I suggest to Mike supply this info. That why he suggested not to remeasure the coil.
One issue I have had is people not waiting for devices coil to cool down before a remeasuring. They would be using device then install a new profile and remeasure a warm coil.

I was hoping using this method would make things easier for the elite user. Really no biggie since just a software settings and you can easily update this software. I figured as more of these get out to people issue might pop up.


What I'm going do is to upload up a profile and 3 different material files ( Hot material is installed in profile). Mike adjusted the TCR values in a attempt to produce the best experience and not sure what one he adjusted (I think he adjusted Hot material?) so it's easier to just supply all three.

I rather do it this way for testing than to upload a new version of the software. Profile 8 is unused and I'm going suggest we use it for testing. This won't effect the other profiles so seems a good use for it.

If you like to help with testing.
Using escribe load this profile into profile 8 slot.
Elitetester.ecigprofile
After upload, it will force a remeasure of coil on profile 8 please do this on a coil that's cold.

Under Material tab is a place to upload these 2 additional material.
Cool.csv
Warm.csv

These are wide enough apart to give you a different experiences. There roughly equal to a TCR value of Cool 90 TCR Warm 100TCR and Hot 109TCR
(I used TFR material files so TCR value are more close range than a exact match).
Once you find one that is close to your ideal experience you can adjust the TCR value of it to more closely match your likes. Use a small adjustment of 1 TCR till you zero in on value you prefer.


Since there can be variable on the user side. Like what type screen people you use. The possibility of different distance from coil if using something like 19/19 stems.( My rough guess is each additional 1mm distance from coil is roughly 5 degrees temperature difference).
These file should give a few option to start zeroing in to what experience best suits each user needs.

I based the Hot material temperature by comparing it to the Mighty at the same temperature. Using the stock stem and screen. Granted this method isn't perfect but it's as close as I'm able to achieve.


Also Mike is right, this guys has got me spoiled too :) I spent a couple days last week on getting travel vapes setups together. Although my travels vaporizer preform really well. I prefer the Elite for my Home use.

Been over 5 weeks with the elite and our honeymoons is over...but the marriage is damn strong. This is going be a long lasting relationship.

Well folks my hand has had it for now will check back later. I'm going go medicate and test some new batteries out. The Elite tracks power usage and puff time so we should be able to more easily compare the battery life using these figures.

My guess is umm around 100 puffs at roughly 10 seconds each. Testing at 400 degrees using a new battery. (same battery as Mike supplies with the Elite)
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
JPEG-20190416-141141.jpg


been using a glass stem since Sunday but went back to wood, midday yesterday. Much more even roasting. The glass conducts too much heat around the out side of the load, thus there's that little ring of slightly more undercooked herb on the outside edge... Not the case with the wood stems. Also very little difference in heat/agitation to my throat from the xl8r jr to the stock wood stem.
 
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Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Upward and onward...
30 Elites going through the paces. Today, each one got sized to length. I also pulled a few units out and *warmed up*, making sure everything is happening just right, jigs in good shape, nothing getting outta whack. I drilled out five units, messed with tolerances a hair (.5). I'm talking about the location of the tapered hole in relation to the battery and board compartment, and how that effects the bottom cap. Smart to do it this way, instead of banging out the whole batch and realize a set up was a bit off. A final tweak before mass production...
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Really gonna dig in today. Right now it's all about efficiency, and refining the various processes. Get more done without going faster. Work smarter, not harder. Just like woodworking, this is all about refining the process.

BIGGEST TIME SAVERS

1. Final assembly

This is the result of how *good* I've been throughout the build process. Accuracy and consistency equal speed in the final assembly. I'm rewarded here for adhering to tolerances quite closely.

2. Sanding and finish work

Holy shit did this used to take forever. Now, I kind of keep up with sanding as I go. I use the belt sander, disk sander, then mostly sponges and aluminum oxide strips, down to 600 grit. The machines have added lots of speed to the process, but so has the sponges which help protect against *over sanding*, and then having to chase any mistakes - time killer. Beeswax still takes forever.

3. Battery mortise and board mortise are the same size

This makes for one really tight set up. Of course the battery mortise is deeper, but both are ideal at about 75 x 19 mm, and the jig / shim set up is stellar, simple, repeatable. Getting really good at one thing is nice.

4. Three routers

Having three routers set up, without having to change set ups, is big time saver. The less time I'm changing bits, setting things up, the better.

5. Table saw *shaving sled*
Mastering the art of *shaving*, I was previously cutting box joints and some dove tails on my table saw using this method. The table saw is the most accurate tool in the shop, why not use it? Getting the hang of removing stock safely and efficiently took awhile, but with a few simple shims, stops, it is a simple process.

6. x / y axis vice for drill press

This was originally purchased to make the cover plate, but has now become one of my most used tools. It speeds up every hole I drill, and adds incredible accuracy.

7. Bench planer to bring everything to size

When I started using a bench top planer to bring stock to exact size and thickness, accuracy soared, but so do efficiency. With the addition of some calipers, bringing stock to perfect size is now a routine process. This new level of accuracy avoids all issues that need to be dealt with, huge time waster.

8. Soldering the board

The DNA75 color board is a pleasure to work with, as well as resilient and durable. No muss, no fuss, it just works.

9. Flipping the bottom cap

Best structural change yet. The edge and face grain pair so nicely. I barely have to do any hand fitting, and that can waste lots and lots of time. I use square stock to start, size with the planer, and basically slice blocks, a drop of chisel / file / sand paper - done.

10. Coil forming

I've become quite proficient at coiling. Took some time to get quick at the entire process that involves butt splices, tinning wires, soldering, forming the coil, attaching to the disk, mounting in the unit, a lot of steps. Slow coil means slow process. If the coils is formed perfectly the first time, it just pops right into any unit.
 

P.A.M.

Vapo Rising
Proud to home this gorgeous Lil' Bud Elite ! it's an honor to be part of batch #2 . Mike pushed and worked hard on this batch, stayed on top of his game, all while losing and mourning a man's best friend. I'm proud of you , Mike , looking forward to see and support upcoming Vapwood products coming soon. Stay tuned folks!

IMG-4048.jpg

IMG-4045.jpg

IMG-4049.jpg
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
Proud to home this gorgeous Lil' Bud Elite ! it's an honor to be part of batch #2 . Mike pushed and worked hard on this batch, stayed on top of his game, all while losing and mourning a man's best friend. I'm proud of you , Mike , looking forward to see and support upcoming Vapwood products coming soon. Stay tuned folks!

IMG-4048.jpg

IMG-4045.jpg

IMG-4049.jpg

Nice - any reason for that particular airflow setup?
 

P.A.M.

Vapo Rising
Nice - any reason for that particular airflow setup?
Lol , So , that is , just on mine isn't it ? Lol Or are there others like it ?

I don't know, Mike knows im picky, lol, but also knows I understand the blood sweat and tears that go into woodworking . So maybe I just landed with this lil runt by nature or mistake or Mike wants me to test and report back .

Or maybe, and most probably , Mike's just fucking with me knowing I'm a Southpaw and that I won't be able to choke them vent holes if I'm vaping with the "bad" hand ! :lol:
 
P.A.M.,
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Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Hey All...
@P.A.M. That ain't no runt. That bad boy is one of the last off the line, but going forward, every Elite will have that vent hole set up. My DD has it as well, and it works really well. It will be on many units soon. The slightly extra draw resistance pairs well with the Elite power and temp control. The fourth hole is venting the board compartment. While all holes are on the same side, the outer holes penetrate to the middle of the coil chamber (180 degrees apart). The next upgrade that will begin to appear on units is the fourth vent (for the coil comp) will go all the way through to the other side (vented on both sides). Forget about covering holes, this isn't a Classic.

It's sale time...
Coupon Code FOUR20 will save you $42 side wide, on every Lil' Bud from the Classic Bare Bones to the Elite Complete. Tell your friends, spread the word!

Oops, almost forgot. So in addition to the 4 low vent holes, the other change is a flush cover plate. Here's a peek at one.
20190325-173501.jpg
 
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Wow lot of changes is the works.

The air hole change design really is interesting. I mentioned before that the air resistance is one of the things that set the different 510 devices apart. The elite already has a great air restriction. It's less than the Splinters but not as wide open as the iheat.

I mentioned to Mike how happy I was with the elite restriction and that felt was it was almost perfect. Guess almost perfect wasn't good enough and he made it even better :)

I still kinda mixed on faceplate design. I think I like the older style a little more. I'm sure once I see one in person I like it more. I still think a gasket or something to block the light leak would help.

Battery testing isn't going as well as planned first test on Elite was 60 13 second hits used 777 mwh. Realized I was doing it stupidly by writing it down. Second try on the tester I reset stats on device. Got 64 hits but hit accidentally hit reset and lost data DUH. So going rerun it on the tester before shipping it back.

Third times the charm the battery now been charged 3 times on nitecore D2 charger. I jumped on escribe to make sure a reset on device, also reset device monitor. Then ran another battery down.


Here are the results just ignore the last puff it is when it tossed a weak battery message. I could Milk another couple hits out but woulda messed up the results.

Look at the Mean and std . dev. values. These value are of 74 hits. I think it says a lot on a Elite's accuracy.
14occub.png
 
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muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
Interesting. I'm gonna be honest I do like the new faceplate look better. It is much cleaner.

I like my symmetrical airholes, but do wonder how the units with the new setup perform in comparison.
 

P.A.M.

Vapo Rising
I like my symmetrical airholes, but do wonder how the units with the new setup perform in comparison

I still wonder how the LB Classics angled vent holes perform compared to non angled holes of my versions , so I find that funny :lol:

I doubt it's much of a game changer in this situation like in the Classics, more tweaks to better the overall performance for the mass crowds. I think for the most part, more experience users figure it out with what they have. (not to say we don't have personal preferences we find or not, you and I being curious , hence our wonder ) . Mike says he will add one on the other side where I have none .. so I'll wonder too ( I could drill one but hell no!!!! Lol) I'd rather have an outdated unit , a very unique one :D (I did write "runt" in a good way earlier by the way ! )

Good luck to anyone trying to take my Elite from me. :evil:

The 4 vent holes in a row are neat ! ( I Do love the holeless face , I bet mike did it has such being a OCD thing of his not liking a vent hole "visually" on LB's .. LOL . )

But theoretical , yes , well thought of.
1st hole - DNA Board vent hole
2nd and 4th hole - think North Pole / South Pole (180 degree opposite even if holes on same side of LB)
3rd hole - typical side vent

Results 3 vent hole such as early LB Classics. They are smaller then on iHeat and LB Classics, great flow , almost normal to me perfect restriction .. :clap:

Oh , I didn't write a review or comments huh? Hmmm , worked out of the box for me. Super fun DNA screen display to learn and navigate . Very user friendly in that regards (easy to learn/figure out) !

Vapor is so cool & fast, effortless & abundant !

You do have to try it to believe it :nod:
 
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Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
I am very happy to put an Elite in your hands @P.A.M. Thanks, as always, for the kind words. I hope you get many, many hours of joy out of your new gadget. The cool @HerbieVonVapster screen is sweet.

Me? I'm working, working, working...

What I'm working on is bringing my *stock* batch of Elites and Classics up to almost 50 units, while fulfilling orders from March, April. Little of this, little of that, bringing everything along.

The new cover plate mount is both really cool looking, as well as structurally superior. The way it is held is place is *pinned* vs screwed. It creates a few positive situations.
1. From the top / bottom view it is completely recessed. I plan to let it sit proud a hair (again, both for aesthetics and function), not trying to make it look like on piece, but rather create an interesting shadow.
2. The amount of material that needs to be shaved from the bottom of the plate is now very small. Gives the plate more strength, as well as huge time saver.
3. One less process (no groove)
4. Can be final fit to the unit a head of time.

As far as vent holes....
There isn't a ton of difference. It's now three, 5/64" holes or 15/64 total vs two 1/8" holes or 16/64 total. So 1/64 less, maybe a bit less wide open, possibly benefit from a slower pull. Like a said, very minor. I think it'll be a winner. The angled vent will stay on the Classic.
 

P.A.M.

Vapo Rising
Updated family photo .

IMG-4053.jpg


It would make a lengthy video to showcase them all in action but might get to it one day! I still want to do a iHeat video first and later the Elite . You guys need to see the Quilted Walnut figure of my Elite , photos don't do it justice. I love it , Mike , thank you .
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I like my symmetrical airholes, but do wonder how the units with the new setup perform in comparison.

Sounds like a small restriction to airflow. You might get a similar experience by using a basket type screen with finer Mesh. There is a fine line here if too restricted it's like sucking a straw. Without enough you get some scorching of the material.


Good luck to anyone trying to take my Elite from me. :evil:

I know that feeling all to well :)

After spending a week with the tester there's a few small differences. The tester runs better on the Med material file and dropping the preheat to 3. I'm debated dropping the preheat a bit lower but need test it more.

There a small difference in the distant from coil btw my batch 1 and tester 9 (1-2mm) So I'm finding either cool or warm material works little better with batch 2.

So for batch 1 suggest the hot or med material.

Batch 2 try instead the med or cool material and drop preheat to 4.

Use the onscreen temperatures to monitor the peak temperatures. You should shot for around 5% precent over a set temperature of 400f. The other temperature is average over a draw so it should be close to what temperature is set to.

There's also peak wattage displayed on main screen. When setting up the software for TC mode I used 50w to allow a wide range of user style. Using escribe more experience user can setup there own peak watts.

For TC mode, open escribe device manager.
In TC mode the elite only uses the wattage needed to compensate for what heat you pull off the coil. If set too low you will see the temperature start to drop. You want to set watts at the point you not able pull the set temps down well taking the biggest hit hit possible.

Using device manager makes it easy for the tweaker to customize this setting for there own usage pattern. A heavy draw style requires higher wattage @P.A.M :)


I'm really impressed with the outcome of the testing above. I ran it to show the battery life aspect.
If look under mean and std dev. there's less than a 7 degrees difference over 74 hits and less than 2 watts difference in power used.

I know the elite was performing great. but I normally don't use elite in same manner as i did for battery testing. Normally I adjust my temperatures in use.

Seeing how well it maintained the set temperature impressed me. It really is excellent and I wanted point that out in case other missed that aspect in above results.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
That is quite the collection. I can't wait to see and hear about @P.A.M. 's adventures with the Elite. Lots and lots to play with for those who love to tinker. Since I spend all day tinkering, sometimes I prefer the Elite's innate ability to just work amazingly on a low power setting with a little punch. Simple, I'm at 25 watts now.

@HerbieVonVapster , you continue to out do yourself. Your contribution to the Elite is much appreciated by all.
 
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muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
Sounds like a small restriction to airflow. You might get a similar experience by using a basket type screen with finer Mesh. There is a fine line here if too restricted it's like sucking a straw. Without enough you get some scorching of the material.

I like the airflow as is, so I guess I should be happy with my symmetrical-ness, and more free airflow (1/64th BABYYYY!!!!!)

So I'm finding either cool or warm material works little better with batch 2.

For sure. I do think Elite Hot works good, but it's a bit fast and aggressive, tending to lead to dark spots.

I am finding TC the way I have had it set since last Sunday has been 100% perfect and how I will likely keep it, unless I get un-lazy enough to go into escribe and try and replicate my results by tweaking the TCR value rather than the cold ohms.


:cheers:

This is a kickass vape. Favorite electronic portable I have used no doubts.
 
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