The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

oddjobold

Vape swap shop
Would be the best of both worlds. Bonus points if we can keep the external wood diameter under 23mm to fit into SBS mods.
Not sure if that would be possible as the shitfucker is 20mm at its widest point. That would mean the wood sleve would only be 3mm thick. Not sure if its possible to make it that thin. Unless you use something else other than wood. But i might be wrong i am no expert.

Could you use the same gunk that is used in the eraser body to ecase the glass? A kinda hybrid? I think that would do 3mm.

Juat throwing some ideas out there. Its exciting to think about the possibilities.

Edit: not planning on using an sbs myself so i prefer the wooden sleve idea.
 
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phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I've got @emmdeemo's SF and I'm going to see how easy it'll be to sleeve.

Looking at the Splinter there is a possibility of doing the same thing here.
It'd be interesting to see what style deck is used and how it's held in place.
HVXzcrY.jpg

Meant to say about an all wood body before, no glass or SS just wood.
This would be one of those 'suck it and see' situations.
Thick like a pipe bowl would be okay but the wood could well add a wanted/unwanted flavour.
Tobacco pipes cope with heat well above the SF's output so in theory it should work.
 

Bandoo

Well-Known Member
OOaEkVq
KZo7b
How does this look?
I was impatient since I received the coil today from Pipes (thanks again) I didn't have a 14 female and didn't want to wait 2 weeks to get one. So I took an 18 and put a silicone band on the outside of the 18mm female, took out the o-rings and the band holds the female joint in there tight. The uneven bottom edge of the glass lets in just the right amount of air so it's an all glass pathway, except for the wood mouthpiece.

This is the first time I used the Knight or any mod so I don't know if I used it right.
When I first turned it on it asked if it was a new coil but I never confirmed it and I can't get it back to that message when I turn it on. I set the temp at 210 and 30 watts and it seems to work fine.
Maybe there is a tutorial on using it somewhere. The instructions were a pretty basic.

Anyway what do you think!

PS: Hope I posted the pic correctly if at all........
 
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GreenHopper

20 going on 60
KZo7b
How does this look?
I was impatient since I received the coil today from Pipes (thanks again) I didn't have a 14 female and didn't want to wait 2 weeks to get one. So I took an 18 and put a silicone band on the outside of the 18mm female, took out the o-rings and the band holds the female joint in there tight. The uneven bottom edge of the glass lets in just the right amount of air so it's an all glass pathway, except for the wood mouthpiece.

This is the first time I used the Knight or any mod so I don't know if I used it right.
When I first turned it on it asked if it was a new coil but I never confirmed it and I can't get it back to that message when I turn it on. I set the temp at 210 and 30 watts and it seems to work fine.
Maybe there is a tutorial on using it somewhere. The instructions were a pretty basic.

Anyway what do you think!

PS: Hope I posted the pic correctly if at all........

Hello bud,

The pic seems to be missing.

Regarding getting the 'New Coil' option, all you need to do is remove the coil, press the fire button the knight so it recognises the coil has been removed. The screw it back on again.

The next time you press the fire button you'll get the 'New Coil' option.

Select 'Y', this will cause the mod to attempt to detect the coils resistance (very important) and set it correctly (automatically) for you.
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
That looks very cool. Very nice wood working and using the Knight to hold the glass oven in place is spot on! Can adjust the air flow by space around the bottom which also eliminates any glass drilling. Brilliant. You need to heat treat the bottom of the glass a bit..;)
I think you have this very well thought out. :clap:
The glass joint for a bowl is going to be a perfect set up. :science:
Well done!

Here is the picture your having a hard time posting.

OOaEkVq.jpg
 
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goodpunk6

Well-Known Member
That looks very cool. Very nice wood working and using the Knight to hold the glass oven in place is spot on! Can adjust the air flow by space around the bottom which also eliminates any glass drilling. Brilliant. You need to heat treat the bottom of the glass a bit..;)
I think you have this very well thought out. :clap:
The glass joint for a bowl is going to be a perfect set up. :science:
Well done!

Here is the picture your having a hard time posting.

OOaEkVq.jpg

dude, seriously? Am I gonna have to get the Eraser AND the Pure/SF??? Christ Almighty! Just take my wallet already! :lol::lol::lol::lol:

Someone please post some vapor porn of this!
 
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Bandoo

Well-Known Member
Thanks Pipes!
I didn't have a 14 to use and I didn't think the cork would work. Was lazy.
I have some colored 18's I will use later.
Was in a hurry to use it so I just stuck it together with a funky female joint I had lying around, which I was not going to use, from Ryan to see if it would work.
Once in a while I have to replace a Milaana joint after dropping it.:rolleyes:

Have some 14's coming later but this 18 size seems to be fine.

Later I will cut, flame polish and drill a better looking amber or cobalt joint. Maybe a tad longer to keep the herbs farther from the coil.
To me it looks like a naturally good fit, if you have a mod that can hold the glass.:brow:

I have a few questions though please.
How did you get the dang pic to post? I think I tried all the instructions and tutorials.
And how do I make the pic smaller? I resized it in Imgur, maybe I should have used the smaller thumbnail size? Can a post with a picture be previewed?

This is the first time I used a mod box. Though I did go through the thread.
If I am in TC mode do I need to also set the wattage and ohms or is that for a different mode?
Is this design/size coil optimum for an 18er?

And is TC the best mode for this setup?

Thank a lot again! :love:
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I think you did a bang up job for just sticking it together. :nod::tup:

Had a fun time figuring out the picture stuff from Imgur myself. Ended up opening in a new tab and copying that link.

Not familiar with the Knight myself neither. If it has a TCR setting, set to 180 and see what temperature works best.
Others who use it may have a better setting.

Give the provided coil a go to see how even it cooks the surface area of the load. A wider diameter coil might be in order but never know till you try.

So guy's, here is a gif of my new Fidget Spinner. Best one ever, oh and my personal wooden Project works good too. Now, NO, I'm not making as a product to sell so get that idea gone... That wooden piece took me a couple days of work. But figured I deserve it.. :p

Now I can get high and keep amused all with one device.... :freak:



Didn't even wake up the little pussy cat. :lol:
:science:
 
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Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I'm afraid I'm not the skilled wood turner. Like I mentioned that was a special one which took a lot of time. Can't really put a price on it and do not have the time these days for special requests of that nature. Has come up many times and would love to help but trying to keep the price down as well.
Once you have the eraser, there are a few skilled wood turners around here that can accommodate a custom sleeve.

Might not have being the best thing to post that picture but I do love to tease a bit...:D
Besides, that piece @fluffhead posted a page back, got even me jealous. :luv:
Shows what can be done with just sleeves.
 

goodpunk6

Well-Known Member
I'm afraid I'm not the skilled wood turner. Like I mentioned that was a special one which took a lot of time. Can't really put a price on it and do not have the time these days for special requests of that nature. Has come up many times and would love to help but trying to keep the price down as well.
Once you have the eraser, there are a few skilled wood turners around here that can accommodate a custom sleeve.

Might not have being the best thing to post that picture but I do love to tease a bit...:D
Besides, that piece @fluffhead posted a page back, got even me jealous. :luv:
Shows what can be done with just sleeves.

Once I get my hands on one, I'll hit up @phattpiggie for custom stem. I'm gonna go all out, Burl baby!
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
The Pure SF + Knight v2 has become my most used portable vape. I bring it everywhere I go. I can vape at work, at bars, at parties, concerts and night clubs and it never draws any attention at all (apart from smell of course, but that's completely independent)

I don't use it at home, as it's not as good as my Zion. I need to take longer draws with the Project, exceeding 10 seconds (and with the Knight stock firmware I have to release and retrigger once per hit) in order to get the kind of hits I'm after. Taste also degrades faster for some reason, don't know if it's due to the nature of the 14mm bowl or something else. At the same time it extracts faster, which is a plus when I'm outside and definitely a desirable trait for a portable.

But it's already so much better tasting than any of the conduction vapes I own, there's no comparison. I can't detect any parasitic smell or taste, contrary to the Eraser, and the silicone o-rings are very minimally exposed to the air path, being located below the intakes.

I've been using the exact same stem in the Pure SF, the MistVape Touch and the Milaana, so I'm able to make direct comparisons. And the temperature regulation is clearly more comfortable. No need to count mentally, no need to think about draw speed too much, the mod is able to cope and adapt.

The screen above the coil can be a pain in the ass sometimes. I never ever managed to make it sit as perfect as when I received it. I can get it close enough, but it's always wobbly shaped. But as long as it prevents any bits from falling under, it does the job and it's only an aesthetic detail.

An interesting point is that I don't have to adjust the set temperature to be able to fully extract. And it's the case with all my glass stem based convection vapes (Zion included) The only convection vape that I have that gives me the "surgical temperature control" effect is the Swift-Pro. It does the same as the Ascent or the FM5-Pro: you can set a given temperature then deplete it fully until there's no vapor output at all, then as soon as you rise the temperature you start getting new vapor. Proof that their regulation is spot on.

But I don't get that with my glass stem based convection vapes. A combination of factors make that in practice you get some kind of automatic temperature climb and you just have to push it as far/high as you wish. Note that with the Project, sometimes (and it's rare) I might bump the temperature once at the end, but that's it.

For the Knight v2 settings, my coil reads 0.48ohm and is solid (I dedicated the mod to the Pure SF so it helps, I'm not wearing my 510 out by swapping often like I did previously with the evic VTC mini) TCR is set to .00180 on screen (which translates to 180 in other mods) and power set to 40W. I might even try lowering that last parameter to increase battery life, because as it is it's between my Milaana and my MVT, using the same set of cells (I have a pool for all my single cell vapes and one for my dual cell vapes)

This setting lands the set temperature somewhere at the middle of the scale (200°C) The usable range for me seems to be 210°C to 240°C and it doesn't correspond to the real bowl temperature but I strictly don't care. I usually do all sessions entirely set to 220°C. There might be a more optimal TCR setting that would give me either a more precise temperature display or a larger usable temperature range (because with 5°C or 10°F increments you don't get that many levels in practice) but as I said above, a single temperature appears to do it all for me.
 

goodpunk6

Well-Known Member
The Pure SF + Knight v2 has become my most used portable vape. I bring it everywhere I go. I can vape at work, at bars, at parties, concerts and night clubs and it never draws any attention at all (apart from smell of course, but that's completely independent)

I don't use it at home, as it's not as good as my Zion. I need to take longer draws with the Project, exceeding 10 seconds (and with the Knight stock firmware I have to release and retrigger once per hit) in order to get the kind of hits I'm after. Taste also degrades faster for some reason, don't know if it's due to the nature of the 14mm bowl or something else. At the same time it extracts faster, which is a plus when I'm outside and definitely a desirable trait for a portable.

But it's already so much better tasting than any of the conduction vapes I own, there's no comparison. I can't detect any parasitic smell or taste, contrary to the Eraser, and the silicone o-rings are very minimally exposed to the air path, being located below the intakes.

I've been using the exact same stem in the Pure SF, the MistVape Touch and the Milaana, so I'm able to make direct comparisons. And the temperature regulation is clearly more comfortable. No need to count mentally, no need to think about draw speed too much, the mod is able to cope and adapt.

The screen above the coil can be a pain in the ass sometimes. I never ever managed to make it sit as perfect as when I received it. I can get it close enough, but it's always wobbly shaped. But as long as it prevents any bits from falling under, it does the job and it's only an aesthetic detail.

An interesting point is that I don't have to adjust the set temperature to be able to fully extract. And it's the case with all my glass stem based convection vapes (Zion included) The only convection vape that I have that gives me the "surgical temperature control" effect is the Swift-Pro. It does the same as the Ascent or the FM5-Pro: you can set a given temperature then deplete it fully until there's no vapor output at all, then as soon as you rise the temperature you start getting new vapor. Proof that their regulation is spot on.

But I don't get that with my glass stem based convection vapes. A combination of factors make that in practice you get some kind of automatic temperature climb and you just have to push it as far/high as you wish. Note that with the Project, sometimes (and it's rare) I might bump the temperature once at the end, but that's it.

For the Knight v2 settings, my coil reads 0.48ohm and is solid (I dedicated the mod to the Pure SF so it helps, I'm not wearing my 510 out by swapping often like I did previously with the evic VTC mini) TCR is set to .00180 on screen (which translates to 180 in other mods) and power set to 40W. I might even try lowering that last parameter to increase battery life, because as it is it's between my Milaana and my MVT, using the same set of cells (I have a pool for all my single cell vapes and one for my dual cell vapes)

This setting lands the set temperature somewhere at the middle of the scale (200°C) The usable range for me seems to be 210°C to 240°C and it doesn't correspond to the real bowl temperature but I strictly don't care. I usually do all sessions entirely set to 220°C. There might be a more optimal TCR setting that would give me either a more precise temperature display or a larger usable temperature range (because with 5°C or 10°F increments you don't get that many levels in practice) but as I said above, a single temperature appears to do it all for me.

can you post a video of the pure in action?
 
goodpunk6,

Bandoo

Well-Known Member
Pipes - Had a fun time figuring out the picture stuff from Imgur myself. Ended up opening in a new tab and copying that link.
Yo-Where did you copy the link to?? The same link I used in my post that went to Imgur?

Does the preview feature also work with pics so I don't have to screw up the post till I figure it out?

Thanks again. :wave:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[COLOR=#ffff00 said:
"KeroZen,[/COLOR] post: 1146962, member: 17815"]The Pure SF + Knight v2 has become my most used portable vape. I bring it everywhere I go. I can vape at work, at bars, at parties, concerts and night clubs and it never draws any attention at all (apart from smell of course, but that's completely independent)
For the Knight v2 settings, my coil reads 0.48ohm and is solid (I dedicated the mod to the Pure SF so it helps, I'm not wearing my 510 out by swapping often like I did previously with the evic VTC mini) TCR is set to .00180 on screen (which translates to 180 in other mods) and power set to 40W. I might even try lowering that last parameter to increase battery life, because as it is it's between my Milaana and my MVT, using the same set of cells (I have a pool for all my single cell vapes and one for my dual cell vapes)

This setting lands the set temperature somewhere at the middle of the scale (200°C) The usable range for me seems to be 210°C to 240°C and it doesn't correspond to the real bowl temperature but I strictly don't care. I usually do all sessions entirely set to 220°C. There might be a more optimal TCR setting that would give me either a more precise temperature display or a larger usable temperature range (because with 5°C or 10°F increments you don't get that many levels in practice) but as I said above, a single temperature appears to do it all for me.

---------------------------------------------------------------
Are you speaking about a different mode here than TC? ".00180 on screen (which translates to 180 in other mods) and power set to 40W."

Ken,
Would you mind then telling me how you set your K2?
What I first did,
1- I first did the new coil thing.
2-Then set it to ss.
3-Then tcr 1 or ss - it doesn't seem to make a diff?)
4-So it now reads 230c 0.48 ohms 80 watt.
I cant get it to move the wattage or get to the .00180 setting in ss or trc mode. Am I in the right mode ??

Or should I just do the new coil set, then set it to vw and 40 watts and use it like that without any other settings being set? That seems to work but the coil gets red hot after about 10 seconds.
It's set itself at 49 ohms. How did you set it to .00180 in that setting?
------------------

I guess that's separate from a TC setting, no?

Am I missing something here, besides brain cells? :hmm:

If you have the time would you please walk me through your K2 setup step by step?

I am going to use it with the 18 till the 14's arrive or maybe just leave it. Have spread out the coil some per Pipes the 18 seems fine.

How can you wear out your 510?

Whatever.........................

Thanks a lot! :)
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Coil should never glow at all in the Pure SF, not even barely. Otherwise it means temperature control is not working as it should OR that your set temperature is way too high (prolly close to combustion territory)

You have the same coil reading that I have, it's a good start. Now that you accepted the value it shouldn't ask you anymore until you swap with another RDA. So 0.48ohm is good and as it should be, so far so good.

Then with device powered, hit trigger three times. Menu should pop-up. Select "TCR M1". Click once, and it should display "TCR SETTING" with a value below. Set that value to .00180 and hit the trigger once to validate and it should get back to main display. Now below the battery gauge you should have "M1" displayed, that's the current mode.

Finally, to set the watts it's a bit strange, hold "+" and trigger for a while and temperature and watts should swap on screen (but for some reason sometimes it reverts quickly so you need to insist until the watts stays at the center) When the watts are displayed you can set them using +/-. I'm now at 35W since my last post.

Then it's unclear how you get back to the temperature setting mode, power cycling the device seems to work. Or try "+" and trigger again. You should end up with the temperature in the middle and watts in small on the right corner.

Voila!
 

Bandoo

Well-Known Member
Coil should never glow at all in the Pure SF, not even barely. Otherwise it means temperature control is not working as it should OR that your set temperature is way too high (prolly close to combustion territory)

You have the same coil reading that I have, it's a good start. Now that you accepted the value it shouldn't ask you anymore until you swap with another RDA. So 0.48ohm is good and as it should be, so far so good.

Then with device powered, hit trigger three times. Menu should pop-up. Select "TCR M1". Click once, and it should display "TCR SETTING" with a value below. Set that value to .00180 and hit the trigger once to validate and it should get back to main display. Now below the battery gauge you should have "M1" displayed, that's the current mode.

Finally, to set the watts it's a bit strange, hold "+" and trigger for a while and temperature and watts should swap on screen (but for some reason sometimes it reverts quickly so you need to insist until the watts stays at the center) When the watts are displayed you can set them using +/-. I'm now at 35W since my last post.

Then it's unclear how you get back to the temperature setting mode, power cycling the device seems to work. Or try "+" and trigger again. You should end up with the temperature in the middle and watts in small on the right corner.

Voila!

Thanks a lot Ken I got it set! That explained it perfectly.
Got to fine tune it now .....
Have a great day!
 
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natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Coil should never glow at all in the Pure SF, not even barely. Otherwise it means temperature control is not working as it should OR that your set temperature is way too high (prolly close to combustion territory)

You have the same coil reading that I have, it's a good start. Now that you accepted the value it shouldn't ask you anymore until you swap with another RDA. So 0.48ohm is good and as it should be, so far so good.

Then with device powered, hit trigger three times. Menu should pop-up. Select "TCR M1". Click once, and it should display "TCR SETTING" with a value below. Set that value to .00180 and hit the trigger once to validate and it should get back to main display. Now below the battery gauge you should have "M1" displayed, that's the current mode.

Finally, to set the watts it's a bit strange, hold "+" and trigger for a while and temperature and watts should swap on screen (but for some reason sometimes it reverts quickly so you need to insist until the watts stays at the center) When the watts are displayed you can set them using +/-. I'm now at 35W since my last post.

Then it's unclear how you get back to the temperature setting mode, power cycling the device seems to work. Or try "+" and trigger again. You should end up with the temperature in the middle and watts in small on the right corner.

Voila!
Hey buddy! Do you mean it doesn't glow when seeing it in daylight? Cause if the light are off there is definitely glow out of my coil, glows brighter just before it gets to the set temp. Then it lowers a bit... Regulation seems fine.
My Smoant/Eraser is back in rotation after had been l my to a friend for testing. Such a different beast from the Omni but they complement each other so well during the day. Only thing I dislike is that I prefer it dry and it hits the back of the throat harder than the Omni. So I use Omni a bit more. :p Different tastes, both very desirable for me! :nod:
 
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