The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[Bandoo]

Well that's strange really. Apart from the different shiny screen bezel and the different font on "Smoant" our mods are the same.

Way before 10 seconds my mod reads "temperature control" and drops to about 4W. It's not glowing at all and never has once. My coil is still shiny and uniform in color.

You are not supposed to let it sit without air flow anyways. In some of my other experiments with custom RDA's I had the coil glow when not drawing but just gently blowing on it stopped the glow.

Some people also make their Milaana or MistVape Touch glow but to me it's a no go! Neither of mine are glowing with the way I'm using them.

I think I found the problem with the fast overheating.
Somehow the TCR value changed from 00180 which I set it to, to 4450 0445 or 0045 something like that.
I forgot which or how exactly.

Anyway It's set back to 00180 now.
Tried it out at 40w 165c and seems to work but hot. Lowered it to 32.5 watt and testing..
Also it's reading 'temperature control' at the right time.

btw- What wattage is yours set to?

Thanks a lot!

 

[Pipes]

When in TC, the set watts is the available power to get to the set temp. The more power the faster it comes up to temp but also can overshoot easier. 40 watts is generally fine as easy on the battery too. If running too hot, either just lower the temp or if you don't like how the numbers are correlating with the dialed up temp, you can lessen the TCR to let's say, 170 and try. Also, lowering the TCR number will make the temp between dialed degrees widen up. So if 10 degrees is making too much temperature difference, the TCR needs lowering. We have all seemed to zero in on around the TCR 180-190 range. This is coil build dependent as well. So many factors.... Ball parking is fairly easy and it's the fine tuning that can cause the grey hair.

 

[Bandoo]

Thanks Pipes! That was a great explanation and just what I wanted to know.
I will begin fine tuning..

 

[jimt0r]

Pardon me, but why don't you just order a ready-made one from @Pipes?

At the time when i had asked Pipes about acquiring a SF there wasn't any mention that he was still furthering this project. Its all good tho, I made the decision to put some pocket money into making a small stash, using local talent such as @Kamikaze Viking for my wood work and supplying people I know locally

@Pipes cheers mate, another step closer to

others will carry on with this and we'll have multiple providers.

ATM. I am still sourcing and acquiring parts from the inter nets. Maybe i will start a thread when i get to start getting close to the production stage

 

[Pipes]

Yahoo!! Finally, another enthusiast willing to jump into the fun! If you need any direction on getting it going, let me know.
Gathering the parts list and getting the stuff on order is of course the first step. Getting set up with tools and jigs is good to get moving on while waiting. My start was a little bumpy while I sorted out the minimum equipment needed as my techniques and the use of jigs evolved. Knowing some of this ahead of time would greatly get the ball rolling quicker. As well as saving some heart ache from not doing things the easiest way. Example of this would be, I initially was cutting the SS tubing with a hack saw and lathe. Ended up being hard as hell. Then I though, I all ready had a small hand held grinder and found a holding device on line. It transformed it to a small miter looking cutter. Man, what a difference, use a very thing cutting blade and hot digaty dog. Same with drilling the SS tube, don't even try using a hand held drill. A press is a must.
Minimally, you will need a bench lathe, drill press, grinder/cutter would be the biggest ticket items if you don't have already. Kijiji is great for this type stuff. Find those angry house wives selling off their husbands or x's tools.
For a few hundred bucks you will get the money back and have some new toys to boot. win/win
WTG!!!

 

[KeroZen]

Why start a different thread though? It's an open hardware project in spirit, variants should be discussed and remixed here so it creates more and more emulsion no?

Forking the discussion would only dilute our already meager forces... But that's IMHO.

 

[Pipes]

Doesn't bother me. I'm easy.

 

[jimt0r]

bench lathe, drill press, grinder/cutter

I can outsource the use of the 1st 2 items by going to friends and family and the later I have.

Why start a different thread though? It's an open hardware project in spirit, variants should be discussed and remixed here so it creates more and more emulsion no?

Forking the discussion would only dilute our already meager forces... But that's IMHO.

Threads like http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/diy-510-compatible-rebuildable-dry-herb-atomizer.17187/ got me started in looking at all this, some parts in relation to this project are on the way as I kinda like the style, TBH I'm not sure which way I'm going with all this lol, everywhere I guess

I will be in here for testing and such, AT production stage I may make a new thread or as @Pipes has a linked banner, I'll open that when I get to it. For now is time to chill and enjoy the creative emulsion

 

[virtualpurple]

Can the project be used with the funky junky firmware to take advantage of the cruise mode?

 

[E0x]

Can the project be used with the funky junky firmware to take advantage of the cruise mode?

i am not expert but i don't recomend it because the insulator we are using right now , i don't think can withstand a cuise mode session, be careful.

 

[funkyjunky]

Can the project be used with the funky junky firmware to take advantage of the cruise mode?

yes as @E0x says the insulator might not make it. what is the official max temp its capable to take?

the newest version of the tubomyevic firmware introduced ecolevels where the temp is lowered when no draw is detected. eco level 3 always lowers it to 135degC, i would think that this mode should be suitable for the project.
HOWEVER the draw detection is configured for he tubo heater, i dont know how well it works with the project. maybe when i have a little more time i will try and even configure a version for he project. if someone is brave enough to try in the meantime, i am all ears


with short cruise times (20s or so) it should be ok for the insulation without eco stuff.

 

[Joaon]

My Evic VTC Mini is powered by @funkyjunky's firmware since couple of month now,
I did have issues with the insulator melting (during short coil, or something like that. Nothing since..)
But a few page back, I remember someone posted about ceramic insulator, that would be perfect !

About draw detection and ecolevel, mine didn't detects at all the draw, on any level !
So I tuned it back to 0 in the meantime.

Looking forward on this ecolevels for the Project !

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Can some please can send me a picture of that insulator piece you are talking about is it a ring? Is it that white thing round thing ?

 

[Joaon]

That white piece

 

[stickstones]

I've been using my project with the Tubo firmware set to 40 watts and 30 seconds and love it.

 

[funkyjunky]

if someone wants to make a screen shot of the device monitor from nfirmwareeditor that would speed things up.
id need a screen shot or even a file created with the "record-button" for each:
- fire button pressed, no draw @ ~150degC
- fire button pressed, medium draw @ ~150degC
- fire button pressed, no draw @ ~210degC
- fire button pressed, medium draw @ ~210degC
(additionally also for low and high draw rates)

or if someone already knows: average wattage consumption during these scenarios

 

[oddjobold]

if someone wants to make a screen shot of the device monitor from nfirmwareeditor that would speed things up.
id need a screen shot or even a file created with the "record-button" for each:
- fire button pressed, no draw @ ~150degC
- fire button pressed, medium draw @ ~150degC
- fire button pressed, no draw @ ~210degC
- fire button pressed, medium draw @ ~210degC
(additionally also for low and high draw rates)

or if someone already knows: average wattage consumption during these scenarios

How does eco mode simulate draw detection?

(Sorry if this is cover else where)

 

[funkyjunky]

basically when a draw ends the wattage falls rapidly to maintain the heater temp. and the other way around. for now i have exact trigger points like if wattage is over X then trigger high temp. made them dynamic to set and idle temps. thats why a reconfiguration for the project is likely necessary.

@Joaon can you try eco level 3 and hard draw to activate it?

 

[Joaon]

​

@funkyjunky, here are the FILES

About draw detection, I tried any levels, and barely triggered it on level 3 with really hard draw.
Sadly, I tried today to record a file demonstrating that, and .. see edit ->

​

Edit: Oopsy doozy, melted the insulator..

Here is the post about insulators.. Thanks Kerozen

I tried to look for a solution to the Project Achilles' heel: the insulation bushing / washer that can deform with heat and create problems.

My goal was initially to find a ceramic replacement of some kind but I stumbled on other items that could prove interesting.

First those TO 220 bushings which appear to be the exact same size but in a different color. This time we know for sure that they are nylon and not teflon, and they are sold as "high temperature". Not much specs though and this particular lot/seller has outrageous shipping prices, so it's just for reference.

The best would be to find the same made of PEEK, which also often has this same brown-ish color. I saved a picture of the item in case the link disappears:

And the link >> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...-RoHS-diameter-6-mm-aperture/32640814813.html

Apparently another name for the shape we need is "shoulder washer", as seen here >> http://www.essentracomponents.com/e...d-spacer-us-75079/shoulder-washers-us-p090930

On this same site I found these ceramic washers. Not perfect but the first ones are close with and OD of 5mm and ID of 2.5mm, unfortunately they are too thick >> http://www.essentracomponents.com/e...d-spacer-us-75079/non-threaded-spacer-ceramic

These ones are even better, but also a bit too thick, dimensions are closer. This time it's called "alumina insulator bead" >> https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/HUTO-custermized-and-stardard-sizes-of_666551873.html

...and another source >> https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...0411620259.html?spm=a2700.7743248.51.1.5HAFOK

The "orchid PEEK insulators", don't know if they would fit but PEEK should be better than nylon >> http://www.avidvaper.com/orchid-peek-insulators/

There is this delrin (POM) center pin insulator >> http://www.avidvaper.com/510-connector-rigid-insulator-and-silver-plated-center-post/

Another cheap PEEK insulator set >> http://www.cloudycollabs.com/cci-archon-rda-replacement-insulator-set/

And those things that come in either rubber or silicone >> https://www.lightningvapes.com/coll...10-pack-ce-type-atty-s-eg-protank-evod-t3-etc

Nothing perfect though but some could be worth testing? What do you think?

Project definitivelty needs a proper ceramic (or peek, or whatever safe) insulator. And a wooden sleeve.
Everybody needs wood.

---

Still trying to find or make a good jig to build some pretty clean stove top coils.
Those are quite difficult to make bare hands.. Ah!

 

[b0]

Mine starts glowing at 210 and the max I use is 215-220 usually. I use an Evic mini:

TCR 235
PWR 50
Coil locked at .6
Res is jumping between 600-610

I adjusted my tcr bassed on trying to get close to temps, probably should get it a bit lower but at 185 it wasn't working good enough and sometimes had to use temps up to 265. My res came high and to be honest I dont know how to adjust to make it have less res, any tips will be welcomed.

Wow big changes in my SF!! Decided to move to Arctic Fox and configured everything as pipes guide except 2 things:

1.- My coil always goes from .605 to .615 with this FW so instead of locking at .6 i locked at .620
2.- ATM I use TCR 185

So in now I'm using:

TCR 185
PWR 40
Coil locked at .620
Res is jumping between 605-615 when cold.

Right now the vape production at 200º is amazing and it can still be used through glass great. More experimenting to come but really glad that I changed to Arctic Fox

Wich preheat type you use? Absolut, Relative or Curve? Not sure how this will affect.

 

[jimt0r]

look for Delrin Tube Blanks

http://www.fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html
http://www.fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html
might be useful for them melted insulators

 

[Pipes]

I'm going to do some testing to compare these PEEK insulators and the current nylon ones.
Will have to snip the collars off though as not flexible like the nylon so can't cram it in. Means a little more focus needs to be on centering everything up when assembling. Hopefully can get a few more degrees out of it.

 

[Joaon]

Rx2/3 received this morning, instantly updated with @funkyjunky 's firmware and plugged to Project,
I must say it behave much better than my old VTC mini!
Draw detection is now working!
On level 3, cruise mode, it warms up to set temp, then if no draw, goes back to 135°c.
As soon as I draw, the screen shows max power (40w for me) then settle with draw speed.
It milks pretty quickly

I plane to make soon a side-by-side video, with all my vaporizers in a round, with same strain, same quantity, and as much same temp as possible! Certainly the Project will be in the round!


@funkyjunky, tell me if you need new files with the Rx

 

[goodpunk6]

@Pipes What are the wait times for the Eraser and the Pure SF?

 

[E0x]

@Joaon keep check the insulator please and let us know in a week or 2 of use.

thanks in advance