Ok what about if I say this system brings us better reliability?
Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
Ok what about if I say this system brings us better reliability?
syrupy
Authorized Buyer
Then I'd probably wonder if the gain in reliability is worth it. But I'm up in the nosebleed seats, so there's a lot I don't see. Just dreaming with my fingers...
The old style switches are a lot bigger in size and the room inside leaves no error for assembly, and during use if one wire moves it can cause issues. The rest I can't divulge.
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Hashassin
the uniBHOmber
hi guys, can i run the sr74 or sr71 on a dna 30 vv/vw mod? 7-30w
what does it actually take to get this oh so tempting toy to run?
can i use a high powered mod i own, or do i REALLY have to buy a persei and wait for the iris v2 to get what i want out of this device? that seems like more money and patience than i can spare right now.
what does it actually take to get this oh so tempting toy to run?
can i use a high powered mod i own, or do i REALLY have to buy a persei and wait for the iris v2 to get what i want out of this device? that seems like more money and patience than i can spare right now.
You would need an adapter to mate the Herc to a 510 and on top of that not sure how reliable your battery or your circuit board is on the DNA to withstand constant 20-30 watts for 20+ seconds.
Patrick Hughes
Stoneman
The Persei has vv capability now with the Core power system. I use this setup all the time with my sr71 to tone the power of the white rod down to that sweet spot.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Honestly, I really like the feel of the button travel. I don't need a click, but there's something nice about tactile feedback vs a touch zone that makes me think of those cheap touch lamps my grandmother used to have.
The flat button on the first 2 Persei's is near perfect, the extended button on the V3 is okay, but the 90° angle of the button makes it slightly uncomfortable occasionally. If that button had rounded corners instead of the edge I think it would be perfect. There are high quality switches out there with super solid feel that last a really long time. I would be willing to pay more for a high end vape that had a really nice switch and a really durable anodized finish (like a tactical flashlight) in addition to its awesome vapor producing and battery holding capabilities.
I think there is a way to have cake and eat it to. Solve the problems of momentary vs on/off with a mechanical switch, if you used one similar to a Mag lite that is momentary at the top of travel and then "locks" when clicked-in fully, and then you would push in fully to un-lock. They last for many presses, but it seems to be what happens on the other side of the switch that causes problems...
However. I think sometimes, the customer (me) is not always right. If the touch-sensor is way more reliable, then it should be used.
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@THC SCIENTIFIC I don't remember if this was covered. With the touch switch is there a lock-off feature to prevent accidental firing in a pocket. I like a push button that protrudes, not flush, because I have clumsy sausage fingers.
However, I can adapt to whatever is the best for the design, performance, and durability.
However, I can adapt to whatever is the best for the design, performance, and durability.
@THC SCIENTIFIC I don't remember if this was covered. With the touch switch is there a lock-off feature to prevent accidental firing in a pocket. I like a push button that protrudes, not flush, because I have clumsy sausage fingers.
5 clicks on 5 clicks off that's the Lock out feature.
Caligula
Maximus
LOL, 1000 times yes. Especially on the lamp thing.
Needs more biometrics!
Guys well have the mechanical tops for anyone who still wishes to have a tactile switch.
But to keep the electronics we have to go this route. Remember this unit needs to be easy for people who have a hard time with tactile buttons, this is another reason we are doing this.
I know I can't win them all but well have different tops for different people.
But to keep the electronics we have to go this route. Remember this unit needs to be easy for people who have a hard time with tactile buttons, this is another reason we are doing this.
I know I can't win them all but well have different tops for different people.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Options are good! But if you do release a variety of tops instead of combining features, I hope you'll sell some tubes, too. It would suck to buy one Persei, then all 3, 4, or more of the tops, and have to switch heads constantly!
Standard - V4, touch switch, floating center pin so the Herc and KISS sit flush!, unannounced feature(s)
Iris - VV, lcd screen, the fancy one....
Hammer - On/Off for Hammer Rod/Bender
Mechanical Top - tactile button, no low voltage protection, ?
?? - probably more I don't know about
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The ss tubes already address your question.
The Iris a vv top
V4 touch button top
Mechanical Top
As for the hammer tops we are working on a different version more to come once these go into production.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Iris is only useful in a 7.4 config, not much 'dialing down' from 4.2V.
Hammer top for the Bender - Gonna need 7.4V for this guy too.
Mech Top - this opens the 6v range for 2x CR123's, right? so you'd also need the adjustable tube to use it.
How does the SS kit help out here? Unless you come out with a 2x 18350-length SS tube
syrupy
Authorized Buyer
Mech Top - this opens the 6v range for 2x CR123's, right? so you'd also need the adjustable tube to use it.
How does the SS kit help out here? Unless you come out with a 2x 18350-length SS tube
I still own one of the old style tops that can do 6v with the cr123s, and works with the adjustable stock tubing (no ss needed). That and my original double top are like antique cars taken out for a spin a couple times a year.
Iris is only useful in a 7.4 config, not much 'dialing down' from 4.2V.
Hammer top for the Bender - Gonna need 7.4V for this guy too.
Mech Top - this opens the 6v range for 2x CR123's, right? so you'd also need the adjustable tube to use it.
How does the SS kit help out here? Unless you come out with a 2x 18350-length SS tube
The Iris is useful for everyone voltage range from 3.0-7.4v this means you can run the Bender, Hercules and up and coming Triton to your needs.
The Mechanical tops will give you unrestricted power, meaning if your not careful you might vent batteries. We would recommend these on single battery setups only.
The Ss tubes help because you can use the Iris on the original tube, the ss 18650 tube can go on the mech, and the touch can go on the 18350.
As for running 6.0v on batteries we have nothing in our line up that needs 6.0v and also there are no batteries that we would recommend to run anything on 6v.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
It's some good thinking but just with the tops you have already released I already had such a desire for more 7.4 setups I had to buy 2 more full persei kits to get those tubes!!!
Maybe my brain works differently than most.
Maybe my brain works differently than most.
Hedonismbot
Well-Known Member
Hercules maintenance.
First off, I am quite lazy when it comes to vaporizer maintenance. A maintenance free vape would be ideal, of course, or a servant that would keep all my vape stuff clean!
, but barring that, low maintenance is a big plus to me.
To minimize Herc maintenance, I only use the cleanest extracts I can find commercially. For me, maintenance, while not too difficult, is still too much of a pain to try vaping anything else in the Hercules. Luckily, my favorite dispensary usually has about 10-25 clean extracts to choose from (see dispensary link in my sig – scroll down to the wax section). I also only use my Herc at 7.4v so I don’t know if a 3.7v setup would lengthen the maintenance interval.
Here is my current SR-71 maintenance ritual. (I have never used an SR-74 so I don’t know what would change.)
My approach to the Herc is to minimize how often I open it up. I never unscrew the two halves just to check to see if wax leaked into the bottom chamber. I just assume a little bit has. If any extract leaks out the side holes of the bottom chamber I clear the holes with a small wire and wipe the residue up with an iso wipe. I leave out the mouthpiece screen, too. I found that this eliminates the frequent clogged screen issue with no negative side effects for me.
When I assemble the Herc I’ve learned to torque down those parts that I don’t routinely need to disassemble. Mainly the center post assembly in the bottom chamber. Now when I unscrew the two chambers the bottom chamber stays completely intact without all those little oil covered components coming apart into a gooey mess. I scrape up reclaim from the bottom chamber, and then soak the chamber in iso for a bit, wipe it dry and I’m done with that part. Quick and easy. The only disadvantage I’ve found with this approach is that the center post that holds the heating rod gradually scrapes away the tungsten coating that is the electrical connection on the bottom of the heating rod (a SR-71 specific problem). I suspect that this is how my heating rod will eventually fail, not from burning out but from losing the bottom electrical connection.
For the top chamber I no longer disassemble it routinely either. My new maintenance shortcut for the top chamber is to leave in the heating rod, retaining collar and oil coil and just hold it upside-down with a pair of pliers and heat it with a vari-temp heat gun until the old oil drips out. I just did this with a Herc that had seen 6 grams of wax go through it. The taste had gotten pretty bad and I was debating whether to start a 7th gram or do a cleaning. I decided to try this partial cleaning idea. Kinda like changing the oil in a car. Worked great! Taste is back to the usual excellent Herc flavor. Hopefully, I can do this several times before I need to deep clean by taking the top chamber completely apart. Of course I have to rebuild the oil buffer doing this but I would have to do that anyway.
With this maintainence routine (and my status as a lightweight user – a gram every 2 weeks) I only need to clean my Herc once every 3 months or so. And then with this method the cleanup is pretty quick and easy. I consider the Hercules to be a very low maintenance vape like my Solo and eNano!
So I’d like to hear from other Hercules owners about how they maintain their Hercules. How often do you clean it? How many grams of extract do you put through before the taste deteriorates to unacceptable levels? How thoroughly do you clean you Herc? Do you clean out the reclaim chamber often? Any cleaning tips/shortcuts?
Hedo
I, for one, would like to have a tactile click feedback on each button push to confirm by touch that the Persei is on. No audible click though, please! Plus I still like it to light up when pushed.
First off, I am quite lazy when it comes to vaporizer maintenance. A maintenance free vape would be ideal, of course, or a servant that would keep all my vape stuff clean!
, but barring that, low maintenance is a big plus to me.To minimize Herc maintenance, I only use the cleanest extracts I can find commercially. For me, maintenance, while not too difficult, is still too much of a pain to try vaping anything else in the Hercules. Luckily, my favorite dispensary usually has about 10-25 clean extracts to choose from (see dispensary link in my sig – scroll down to the wax section). I also only use my Herc at 7.4v so I don’t know if a 3.7v setup would lengthen the maintenance interval.
Here is my current SR-71 maintenance ritual. (I have never used an SR-74 so I don’t know what would change.)
My approach to the Herc is to minimize how often I open it up. I never unscrew the two halves just to check to see if wax leaked into the bottom chamber. I just assume a little bit has. If any extract leaks out the side holes of the bottom chamber I clear the holes with a small wire and wipe the residue up with an iso wipe. I leave out the mouthpiece screen, too. I found that this eliminates the frequent clogged screen issue with no negative side effects for me.
When I assemble the Herc I’ve learned to torque down those parts that I don’t routinely need to disassemble. Mainly the center post assembly in the bottom chamber. Now when I unscrew the two chambers the bottom chamber stays completely intact without all those little oil covered components coming apart into a gooey mess. I scrape up reclaim from the bottom chamber, and then soak the chamber in iso for a bit, wipe it dry and I’m done with that part. Quick and easy. The only disadvantage I’ve found with this approach is that the center post that holds the heating rod gradually scrapes away the tungsten coating that is the electrical connection on the bottom of the heating rod (a SR-71 specific problem). I suspect that this is how my heating rod will eventually fail, not from burning out but from losing the bottom electrical connection.
For the top chamber I no longer disassemble it routinely either. My new maintenance shortcut for the top chamber is to leave in the heating rod, retaining collar and oil coil and just hold it upside-down with a pair of pliers and heat it with a vari-temp heat gun until the old oil drips out. I just did this with a Herc that had seen 6 grams of wax go through it. The taste had gotten pretty bad and I was debating whether to start a 7th gram or do a cleaning. I decided to try this partial cleaning idea. Kinda like changing the oil in a car. Worked great! Taste is back to the usual excellent Herc flavor. Hopefully, I can do this several times before I need to deep clean by taking the top chamber completely apart. Of course I have to rebuild the oil buffer doing this but I would have to do that anyway.
With this maintainence routine (and my status as a lightweight user – a gram every 2 weeks) I only need to clean my Herc once every 3 months or so. And then with this method the cleanup is pretty quick and easy. I consider the Hercules to be a very low maintenance vape like my Solo and eNano!
So I’d like to hear from other Hercules owners about how they maintain their Hercules. How often do you clean it? How many grams of extract do you put through before the taste deteriorates to unacceptable levels? How thoroughly do you clean you Herc? Do you clean out the reclaim chamber often? Any cleaning tips/shortcuts?
Hedo
I, for one, would like to have a tactile click feedback on each button push to confirm by touch that the Persei is on. No audible click though, please! Plus I still like it to light up when pushed.
@Hedonismbot I, too prefer low maintainence. I am using the SR-71 with "74 Essentials kit" (74 white rod, spring loaded center post eliminating that contact scraping issue, Ti coils). The center post makes it a breeze to open and check for leaks unless you have cooled oil in the threads. A quick kiss with a lighter will loosen oily threads. When I have oil in the reclaim chamber, I gently heat it and let the oil drip back into the upper chamber. A cotton swab with ISO cleans oily threads on the Herc and KISS carts as well. Sometimes I will take out the coil and soak the upper and lower chambers in ISO with the rod in place. For deep cleaning, complete disassembly, ISO soak all parts, torch rod to clean white. As far as how often, that varies on how much I use it. Or on if I handed it to someone else to hit (noob). If the flavor is off or the stickiness is just too much...time to clean.
@THC SCIENTIFIC
Will a SR-74 type rod (bottom contact) with 71 specs be available? To use with the IRIS. Like a SR-74 HOT ROD.
@THC SCIENTIFIC
Will a SR-74 type rod (bottom contact) with 71 specs be available? To use with the IRIS. Like a SR-74 HOT ROD.
Hedonismbot
Well-Known Member
Oh, I get what you mean now! You hold the bottom chamber upside down over the upper chamber while heating the bottom chamber. Great idea! At first I thought you were letting it drain back through the little holes between the chambers
. Once I got medicated it all became clear! Any idea about the average # of grams? I've never gone more than 6 grams till I have to clean.
I would like to know this too! (ie. a 1.5 ohm rod for the SR-74)
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SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Hedonismbot, thanks for such a detailed post. I'll contribute what I can, but I am not a long time Herc user or pro yet. I have just been doing what works for me for a few months with an SR-74 and have only used it at 7.4V.
Initially I was very good about cleaning the Herc every 3 grams I would pull it apart completely, ISO soak then distilled water boil everything but the coils and rod, the coils I would torch. I would air dry, reassemble without the plastic cover, and leave the top cap off- The rod self cleaned by doing dry burns to get the moisture out of all the components. After everything had cooled down quite a bit I pop the coil back in. My coils have kinda come apart and i think they work even better now than they ever have:
Stock Ti coil held an OK amount but moved up the tube causing a total loss of vapor production.
Smooshed TI coil stays at the bottom of the tube but the bottom chamber stays cleanest with .4g or less total shatter. Frequent reloading.
Smooshed Ti coil thats been removed a bunch of times and expands in the middle kinda like an accordion: Take it out gently with a warm Herc and it stays together no problem, when it's smooshed back in it takes up a bit more space and holds more oil, works freakin amazing, 2 stacked on top of each other can hold a full gram of any type of concentrate with no leaking into the bottom chamber.
I use a bit more than you, and I also used to pass the vape around a group of friends during breaks at work, some of who learned how to use it better than others during the last few months. LOL. Thus began my torture test. I left the Nibbler on the thing almost all the time and stored it about a 45 degree angle and left it in a warm car. I would have to clean the Nibbler often because of the claim buildup (I do not use a screen in the Nibbler "mouthpiece replacement piece" but I stopped deep cleaning the Herc and just kept the threads clean. I also did not even crack the two chambers apart until I noticed so much oil cooling in the bottom it came through one of the 4 lower chamber holes. At this point I pulled the chamber apart, used tools to gently wipe out 98% of the claim and put it straight back in to the top chamber. Put the thing together and keep using it. I did this for the last 9-10 grams of butane concentrates of every type over the last several months.
At one point my spring loaded center post lost its spring even when cleaned with a little ISO. Probably a lot of oil in there. Because I had followed the youtube video and had correct rod placement I never lost contact with the rod or had any loss of power. The thing worked Every Single Time the button was pressed and it was asked to make vapor, it did.
I finally cleaned the thing up properly and it has a little better flavor than when I was just swapping the coils and cleaning them (I have 4 ti coils and sometimes use 1, usually use 2). But I don't think it ever really lost much performance during the torture test. Oh yeah the spring loaded center post works as good as brand new after the deep clean (I made sure to pop the mini center pin out in the ISO)
I'm a huge Herc fan.
Could you provide any more information, a picture or better yet a link to this type of heat gun? I have been using a fairly large, unwieldly heat gun, that has a very simple "dial" shroud that you twist to cover the air inlets and this controls the heat. The fan is one speed only, too powerful, and the heat is too hot. If the thing were about 1/4 the size it would be a perfect Herc tool. I'm very curious about what you're using.
Initially I was very good about cleaning the Herc every 3 grams I would pull it apart completely, ISO soak then distilled water boil everything but the coils and rod, the coils I would torch. I would air dry, reassemble without the plastic cover, and leave the top cap off- The rod self cleaned by doing dry burns to get the moisture out of all the components. After everything had cooled down quite a bit I pop the coil back in. My coils have kinda come apart and i think they work even better now than they ever have:
Stock Ti coil held an OK amount but moved up the tube causing a total loss of vapor production.
Smooshed TI coil stays at the bottom of the tube but the bottom chamber stays cleanest with .4g or less total shatter. Frequent reloading.
Smooshed Ti coil thats been removed a bunch of times and expands in the middle kinda like an accordion: Take it out gently with a warm Herc and it stays together no problem, when it's smooshed back in it takes up a bit more space and holds more oil, works freakin amazing, 2 stacked on top of each other can hold a full gram of any type of concentrate with no leaking into the bottom chamber.
I use a bit more than you, and I also used to pass the vape around a group of friends during breaks at work, some of who learned how to use it better than others during the last few months. LOL. Thus began my torture test. I left the Nibbler on the thing almost all the time and stored it about a 45 degree angle and left it in a warm car. I would have to clean the Nibbler often because of the claim buildup (I do not use a screen in the Nibbler "mouthpiece replacement piece" but I stopped deep cleaning the Herc and just kept the threads clean. I also did not even crack the two chambers apart until I noticed so much oil cooling in the bottom it came through one of the 4 lower chamber holes. At this point I pulled the chamber apart, used tools to gently wipe out 98% of the claim and put it straight back in to the top chamber. Put the thing together and keep using it. I did this for the last 9-10 grams of butane concentrates of every type over the last several months.
At one point my spring loaded center post lost its spring even when cleaned with a little ISO. Probably a lot of oil in there. Because I had followed the youtube video and had correct rod placement I never lost contact with the rod or had any loss of power. The thing worked Every Single Time the button was pressed and it was asked to make vapor, it did.
I finally cleaned the thing up properly and it has a little better flavor than when I was just swapping the coils and cleaning them (I have 4 ti coils and sometimes use 1, usually use 2). But I don't think it ever really lost much performance during the torture test. Oh yeah the spring loaded center post works as good as brand new after the deep clean (I made sure to pop the mini center pin out in the ISO)
I'm a huge Herc fan.
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Hedonismbot
Well-Known Member
I use an earlier version of this Ryobi heat gun:
http://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-Variable-Temperature-Heat-HG600/dp/B006RMPSHA
It has a continuously variable temp setting dial but the temp display only shows 4 temps; 200, 500, 800 and 1050 degrees. So all I know is that my temp is greater than 200 degrees but less than 500. I still think it is somewhat big and unwieldly but it works well. It gently heats and drains the upper Herc chamber in a couple of minutes. I also use it to help prime my Hercs initially but this is somewhat risky. If you overheat you could cause leakage into the bottom chamber.