I've had some serious trouble with well recommended taffies before. Twice I think. The best idea is to run a foil test on it (one of the major reasons I harp on foil tests.....). If it doesn't melt quickly, fully and flow freely before evaporating completely (or nearly so) it's not going to fly. Both mine got 'pasty' and failed to feed well at all.
Otherwise PR is right, the traditional problem is in loading, not getting the center hot enough first. Some of the thicker ones can 'set up fast' on the way down leaving a bubble that won't go away. Another problem here is, unfortunately, the 1.5 Ohm cart. Heat builds up fast, if you have a nearly dead battery around I'd try that for a while tying to build up enough heat in the reservoir before over heating the vaporizer part?
Good luck with it.
With you all the way, but it's a legacy issue as much as anything I think? Back when there were only a few cart values out there was no need for such hot shot performance and as always most are very subject to price pressure. Since they are mostly sold in Head Shops and other 'low education' settings, few would understand the price increase I think?
But what G takes a long lunch some day I say we dump the low end 18350s and dual top and put some real batteries in there and a couple 2.4 Ohm carts with big red 'learn to use me first' stickers all over them?
OF
100% on both points (foil/batteries).
I have always done the foil test so I have no 1st hand experience what happens if it fails so I didn't raise it high in importance, but what you say makes 100% sense and I will add that to my criteria on the foil test. Failures go to the SR-71
Easy to clean and seems flow issues are better (maybe too good
)
I believe the duals are out.
The new heads were redesigned mostly because of the newer cart requirements which were unknown at the original design.
So now the batteries should upgrade and state use only AW and the reason why. Cost isn't really that much of an issue to pay the difference.
Yes, basic unit should have 2.4 ohms and 2 18650's and no 18350's/5 ohm carts. That is a problem waiting to happen, which does. Lets face it the recomendation is learn on 2.4ohm carts with 18650 batteries, but the kit does not provide that... It has 5 ohm and 18350. The 18650 can't be used until you buy another cart.
So tailor the basic kit for 3.6V, spare battery, single top, 2 2.4 ohm carts...
Have a 7.4V option with 2 18350's, 2 5ohm carts separately for advance users... do the same with the hammer and add a hammer top.
These kits give you everything you need to setup the advanced cart. You still need everything separate for replacements stuff, but the kit gives everything w/o having to fully understand what to buy for this or that.
First load, loaded about 0.4 grams of oil, melted it down added another 0.3-4 and then topped off with herb. Took about 10 or so total decent hits but closer to the whispy side. Thought it needed to reload. So just reloaded with oil the second time. Another 0.5 melted down and then added another 0.3.
Took 2 whispy hits, then preheated until timer cut off and hit it while pressing a second time right after the timer. Got a massive rip. but then i opened it up after seeing the members leaking and noticed a ton of oil on the bottom screw plate and all the way down the rod snd center post.
So far ive loaded close to about 2 grams, and have gotten about 10 whispy hits, and 1 or 2 massive hits. but the massive hits only come by preheating until timer cuts off and then heating again and inhaling. i did one reclaim after i noticed all the oil leaked and got about 0.5 back but thats it.
When i loaded it the first time, i noticed massive vapors when initally pressing the button as i t would melt down. Now it just is melting down but not producing the same type of vapor.
Ithink my batteries may be going so that could be the issue, or i just need to put it back together again. But that means i need to clean it again!
EDIT: so i took it apart and slid the rod out a little and put it back together. Hvent loaded anymore oul, but i still coud see some on the coil and rod. Heated it up and instantly for a whisp of vapor from the rod but then it dissapeared and just seemd to be getting hot with no vapor. Timer cut off and i pressed button again could hear a sizzling after a few mor seconds so i put the stainless top cap on and just put the mouthpiece over with no heatshield. Got a good sized hit! But i just wish i didnt have to heat it for so long to get that result snd it looks like im running low on the oil in ther already
You could have flow issues or maybe the battery.
Mine heats up real hot by 10-15 seconds so 30 seconds its very hot, too hot and the oil will boil.
For the SR-71 to work, air must go through the bottom holes around the rod and pass through the coil making vape and then out through the MP. If the air travels a different path - aka the original issue the washer tried to solve allowing air to pass into the MP w/o going through the cart, around it in between the black cover and the SS tube.
In this case you get hot air only. If that is happening this could very well b the issue and my concern for me. So what happens you continue to heat the oil. So vape does happen, but only after it really boils and vapes out, but the air is not sucking it out. Since the oil is so hot, it flows into the bottom area...
So the leaking is a secondary effect, not the primary cause...
Well I haven't had to do one of these tests before, but I think the wax passed. Melted into a clear amber liquid and flowed around the foil giving off a lot of vapor. Left some black stuff behind at the very end but i may have gotten things too hot as I was holding it over a gas stove.
http://imageshack.us/a/img716/9592/nxol.jpg
What say you?
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OF
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PhotoRider
What happens after it completely vapes away - black/brown etc? the remaining stuff is important - things that don't vape away and dirty the equipment.
The flow of the oil does look good, never turns pasty/waxy like OF states?
