Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

[darkrom]

Jam do I need a thread adapter to use the TV power supply setup?

 

[darkrom]

Would it be safe to try the T1 RCR123s in the persei for the bender?

I'll just wait and order the proper batteries later tonight, but its gunna take forever before I get to try this thing :/

 

[jambandphan03]

When I talked to G about using the 6v PA, he suggested NOT trying the 3.0v batteries. I don't know why, exactly,but I have not tried it yet. Maybe they don't handle the quick drain like the IMR's can.

 

[darkrom]

So does the PA method require anything besides the evolution interface and the power supply kit? I have everything but I don't want to thread it until I confirm it doesn't need an adapter. Sadly I feel like it does

 

[OF]

I'm wondering if there is difference in the heat of the hammer for those with long heat up times. Mine (on 7.4v) heats up very fast, so much so I have combusted twice before I even knew what was going on. Could it be that some of the hammers are just not running as hot as others?

It could be, but I suspect the power from hammers is uniform within say 10%? These same heaters are used in soldering irons with excellent matches unit to unit.

As a guess, you'd need a large shift in power to see the time differences reported. My bet's on heat transfer rate changes.

Time will tell, of course. At least with any luck at all.....

Jam do I need a thread adapter to use the TV power supply setup?

So does the PA method require anything besides the evolution interface and the power supply kit? I have everything but I don't want to thread it until I confirm it doesn't need an adapter. Sadly I feel like it does

Feel any way you want, but you're right, DR. You need the 'other' thread adapter, the one neither TV nor D9 sells. This one:
http://www.tropicalvapors.com/Adapt...artomizer-Omicron-Super-Nova-Smoore_p_68.html

When I talked to G about using the 6v PA, he suggested NOT trying the 3.0v batteries. I don't know why, exactly,but I have not tried it yet. Maybe they don't handle the quick drain like the IMR's can.

I think they're OK with the high drain (T1 hammers 'em pretty hard, AFAIK even harder than Bender?). But I suspect the combination of lower heat output (longer warm up time) and low capacity team up so that you can only vape a bowl or two?

When mine gets here I'll do some measurements on it and hopefully have something more intelligent that (slightly) educated guesses to offer. G said 'it's in Camerillo' the other day, but thus far no tracking info.....I'm having to 'make do' obsessing over other deliveries (lucky for me I've got a couple to tide me over until the GD 'got to go to the PO and sign for it' slip gets left when the Postman gets past me.....).

OF

 

[kevin]

I'm wondering if there is difference in the heat of the hammer for those with long heat up times. Mine (on 7.4v) heats up very fast, so much so I have combusted twice before I even knew what was going on. Could it be that some of the hammers are just not running as hot as others?

When I burned off my Hammer you could see the tip cherry up after about 30 sec.!

Kevin

 

[Nick Again]

It could be, but I suspect the power from hammers is uniform within say 10%? These same heaters are used in soldering irons with excellent matches unit to unit.

Well i did try to combust on the hammers. Because of tolerance +/- 0.2 ohms on the hammers ranging from 1.5-1.9 ohms its a little difficult to tell.

more than 10% variance in power due to tolerances

-NDA

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

I guys we try to keep the hammer around 1.7 ohms with tolerances of +/- 0.3 ohms. So each hammer is unique to the user.

 

[OF]

I guys we try to keep the hammer around 1.7 ohms with tolerances of +/- 0.3 ohms. So each hammer is unique to the user.

more than 10% variance in power due to tolerances

-NDA

1.4 to 2.0 Ohms? Yeah, that's more than ten percent.....more like 35%? That's one big window, but I don't think even then it's enough for such a large difference in time? Easy enough to test out if you've got a couple different value hammers to use, or a VV driver and a little math..... Something else to consider when I get mine I guess. See how big a change in time happens for say 20% change in power?

For now it still seems to me more likely an insulation issue. The thickness of the pot holder is more important than how hot the pan lid is. Although a power tolerance window that wide has got me thinking....

Thanks for the additional data.

OF

 

[Aaron]

Do you guys know when your going to be expecting the 2nd shipment of benders?

 

[Nick Again]

1.4 to 2.0 Ohms? Yeah, that's more than ten percent.....more like 35%? That's one big window, but I don't think even then it's enough for such a large difference in time? Easy enough to test out if you've got a couple different value hammers to use, or a VV driver and a little math..... Something else to consider when I get mine I guess. See how big a change in time happens for say 20% change in power?

For now it still seems to me more likely an insulation issue. The thickness of the pot holder is more important than how hot the pan lid is. Although a power tolerance window that wide has got me thinking....

Thanks for the additional data.

OF

There is a large power difference, but not enough to explain a factor of three in time.

I suspect you're close with thinking about insulation, but I'd go further and consider how much of the energy is transferred by conduction, where insulation matters, and how much is transferred by IR radiation i.e. convection. Ceramic is generally the best (or nearly so) material for generating long-wave IR, which passes well through boro glass. At high temperature the efficiency of ceramic radiators can exceed 95%. However when the temperature goes down, we can't beat physics - the Stefan-Bolzmann Law says that radiation goes with the fourth power of temperature - So if a 20% power cut lowers the temp linearly, it lessens the IR radiated by >60% ! The heat must still "get out", but conduction is simply slower than radiation.

Anyway, that's my guess

-NDA

 

[jpdnkstr]

All this talk of heat up time variances....without exact temperature monitoring and time control..... I'd say pointless, not to mention exact battery types and charge levels.... we're talking about time until vapor production right?, let's not forget about product moisture content also........

 

[OF]

All this talk of heat up time variances....without exact temperature monitoring and time control..... I'd say pointless, not to mention exact battery types and charge levels.... we're talking about time until vapor production right?, let's not forget about product moisture content also........

I'm not sure I'd call it pointless. Things which concern customers are seldom pointless.

As an owner, if my unit takes two or three times longer than the next guys for whatever reason I'm not happy. Even if it's not burning up my batteries faster, which I suspect it will be.

I don't think I agree about the exact temperature monitoring or time control either. Vaping temperature hasn't changed really, we're looking to get to 390 or so degrees to make serious vapor no matter how we get there, and if someone tells me it takes them 45 seconds to do so that's plenty exact enough to me to say it's a problem with others taking 20. That's a real, repeatable, difference most won't be happy with owning the 45 second version of. Human nature kinda stuff.

I agree other factors are involved, but I think the problem is real enough to not dismiss it as pointless. You can go broke insisting the customer is wrong.....

Time will tell if we're talking about a real problem worth worrying about, but to get there we'll need to look into it once the issue is raised. At least that's how I see it.

There is a large power difference, but not enough to explain a factor of three in time.

So if a 20% power cut lowers the temp linearly, it lessens the IR radiated by >60% ! The heat must still "get out", but conduction is simply slower than radiation.

Anyway, that's my guess

Once again, excellent thoughts. I agree, the power drop will come mostly from IR, I seriously doubt the temperature on the surface of the Hammer will drop much at all, available heat inside the bowl will (as seems to be the case).

This 'plays both ways'. If we lower the ability of the Hammer to 'throw off' the heat as IR (because we put a more insulating 'blanket' around it) that heat still has to go somewhere. I think the system will compensate by increasing the conduction transfer downward to the Persei. Not only isn't our precious battery power going to the load fast enough to make us happy sooner, but it's likely to be heating up the Persei and our batteries more in the process?

Fun stuff. I'll be harder to understand since a guy won't have a couple of differently performing Benders to compare side by side which would quickly sort out JPD's concerns I think? Does keep it from getting too dull.....

Thanks guys, food for thought......one of my favorite snacks.

OF

 

[darkrom]

Just ordered 4 of the IMR 18350 800mahs. I hope these work because $41 on batteries is the last thing I needed lol.

The waiting for this vape is killing me. The thing is already packed!

 

[ataxian]

Close to that.

Seeings as you EMPHASIZE and CAP-KILL the name of the unit incorrectly every time. Persie is an 80 year old woman whos real name is Priscilla, A Persei is a a new age unit of mass vaporization. No wonder you got a lemon, youve been vaping out of a 80 year old grandma. Quality Assurance and Testing on them runs out around 50 with menopause. Sorry buddy. Your cougar isnt much more than a cough-syrup night of sleep. Kook may be correct.

Name: http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=3731711

I have a Black & a CHROME PERSEI.
THEY WORK PERFECT!

ONE OF MY SOLO'S IS A LEMON.

 

[NoddingDonkey]

I wanted to thank G for this amazing device. I was hit by a car yesterday while riding my bicycle and broke enough bones in my right hand to render it useless beyond a thumb and index finger pinch. I cannot load carts (among other things) but I can load, operate, and clean the bender. I'm so thankful for this device, as I am chasing serios pain right now.

Now to find somewhere that overnights IMR batteries in bulk or cheaper than 12/ea...any suggestions guys? I need to buy like 20 and a big table top charger. they prescribed me morphine time release caps and i already have liver and kidney diseases...so i wont be filling that script.

i find out if i need surgery on tuesday....i'll be vaping heavily for the next 10 weeks+

THANK YOU G

 

[OF]

I was hit by a car yesterday while riding my bicycle and broke enough bones in my right hand to render it useless beyond a thumb and index finger pinch. I cannot load carts (among other things) but I can load, operate, and clean the bender.

i find out if i need surgery on tuesday....i'll be vaping heavily for the next 10 weeks+

Wow, bummer. Best wishes for a speedy recovery. Pain sucks.

I'm not sure a pile of batteries is the best call. Jam reports good results using her TV PA driving her new Bender. While this means needing a cord, it also means no need to charge or change batteries.....

Just a thought. Good luck.

OF

 

[darkrom]

I wonder how long USPS will take with my batts.

I might have missed it before, but by the oring on the bottom of the bender, is that epoxy or silicone or what? I can't see it in some of the pics on FC.

 

[NoddingDonkey]

the bender has 1 stainless steel base with two o-rings; the rest is glass

 

[darkrom]

Sorry for the bad pic my phone (camera) is really acting up right now. White something.

 

[NoddingDonkey]

mine has nothing white....could be from the glasswork?

where can i buy this thermovape power adapter thing so i can hit my bender all day? or where can i buy a pile of batteries?

 

[Fully Melted]

I wonder how long USPS will take with my batts.

I might have missed it before, but by the oring on the bottom of the bender, is that epoxy or silicone or what? I can't see it in some of the pics on FC.

It's a bit of food grade silicone grease to facilitate assembly at the factory. Some have it, some others don't.

 

[darkrom]

It's a bit of food grade silicone grease to facilitate assembly at the factory. Some have it, some others don't.

Is that something I can open and remove or nope?

 

[NoddingDonkey]

yes you remove that piece after use for cleaning, at least i do. just pull it off and twist a bit

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

to remove the bottom metal piece slowly pull it out using your nail. Just go around with your nail to slowly remove it.

The white grease is food grade Mobile FM221 totally safe. This should not be on it just wash it off and its all good.