Porquiplane
Look Into My Eyes
So G, whats the words on the 1706s? Any more info to give on em?
Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
not at this point.
jambandphan03
in flavor country
I see the black SS tube end cap on the D-9 site, any chance there will be other color caps going up for the other SS tubes?
Working on the caps mam. Give us some time.
jambandphan03
in flavor country
okily dokily G!
you are welcome mrs Jam. on a side note everyone the Universe starts testing next week.
tharealmclovin
Well-Known Member
Hopefully I can sell my 2 omicrons to some friends so I can get a colored persei.
bluesurfboy
Member
No selling or soliciting items on the forum. The only exception is the Classifieds section, which is the only place on the forum you may mention items you may have for sale or trade. This includes messages in profiles, signatures, etc.
haha nice, doing something similar, just posted a persei in the classifieds for sale, get it before its gone.
Porquiplane
Look Into My Eyes
OF, could you provide info on how to disassemble carts?
OF
Well-Known Member
There are several ways, some easier than others. I recommend sort of the reverse of how it's built. First pull the center contact tube out. I use a jeweler's screwdriver or scribe to work it backwards in it's seal/insulator enough to grab with long nose pliers and pull out. Then cut the wire soldered to the top end of it. Then pry out the rubber bushing under it (the seal/insulator), giving you a larger hole to work through. Then use a rod of some sort (I've used a bit of coat hanger, but now use a bamboo skewer) up the hole in the bottom to push the inner parts out of the tube. If your rod is skinny, you have to push a bit to one side to be sure to catch the seal under the furnace and use it like a piston to scrub the walls on the way up. All your retained concentrate should come out so push it out over a dinner plate or piece of glass to make recovery easier. This should strip the whole assembly (furnace, flue, seals, wick and bridge) out and leave the tube empty and basically clean.
If the concentrate is thick, I usually warm it up before the final push.
OF
Porquiplane
Look Into My Eyes
Ahhh. May have found the issue with the 2.4 cart. The contact tube wasnt soldered. It came through the seal with no resistance. It was an old blank 2.4.
So the contact tube is out as well as the rubber piece above it. Trying to push the remaining rubber or plastic seal out the top isnt working. Can see the wire up above the rubber seal/bushing. Should the bottom thread piece be removed? Seems like thatd make it a bit easier to remove the rest out the bottom. Want to do this so things can be reclaimed and examined. Know the insides better.
And how would it be able to push out past the "air hole" piece in the top of the cart?
Just looked at three carts side by side. The blank 2.4 has the "air hole" piece at the top of the cart is almost flush with upper rim. Same with a 5 ohm vertical label. Then a third 5 ohm vertical label has a deep recessed "air hole" portion. This deep recessed was a bad leaker. The blank 2.4 ohm didnt work from get go. The vertical 5 ohm with the almost flush "air hole" has worked well, except clogs. Regardless they are the 3 victims of this experiment. 2.4 is first.
So the contact tube is out as well as the rubber piece above it. Trying to push the remaining rubber or plastic seal out the top isnt working. Can see the wire up above the rubber seal/bushing. Should the bottom thread piece be removed? Seems like thatd make it a bit easier to remove the rest out the bottom. Want to do this so things can be reclaimed and examined. Know the insides better.
And how would it be able to push out past the "air hole" piece in the top of the cart?
Just looked at three carts side by side. The blank 2.4 has the "air hole" piece at the top of the cart is almost flush with upper rim. Same with a 5 ohm vertical label. Then a third 5 ohm vertical label has a deep recessed "air hole" portion. This deep recessed was a bad leaker. The blank 2.4 ohm didnt work from get go. The vertical 5 ohm with the almost flush "air hole" has worked well, except clogs. Regardless they are the 3 victims of this experiment. 2.4 is first.
OF
Well-Known Member
No. It's pressed into the tube anyway, I seriously doubt you can get it out anyway. Guys lever on it pretty hard in service. The fitting itself breaks first. That's one of the other, less desirable IMO ways to go, use a Crescent Wrench to snap the threaded part off the upper half of the fitting giving you a bigger hole to use a larger punch through. Not needed, IMO.
It takes a fair bit of force to shift the seal, it's glued in with hardened concentrate after all. But it was pushed down to make it. Lean on it if you have to, support the tube (I use the jaws of the same Crescent Wrench opened to 1/8 to 3/16 inch to support the mouth (so the flue has room to shift out the mouth) and PUSH. Once it's moving it's easier to push out.
I'm not sure what you mean by air hole piece. There's a flue tube from the furnace where the vapor comes up and a bridge that goes over it and makes contact with the walls but neither of them have anything to do with air. And they both come out with the rest as I said (flue riding on top of the furnace body, bridge still on top of the flue).
The only air holes in the system are in the connector bushing. There are two, one on either side just above the threads. Air goes in those holes, up the draft tube into the furnace body (through the seals) to sweep the vapor up the flue and out to you and me.
OF
Guys update on the Bender. Production has started on the bender, but since packaging wont be ready un time for shipping for the bender IE the foam insert we have opted to do it another way.
So your accessories will come inside the package, but your bender will not have a package it will be bubbled wrapped, until we can make the packaging that will include the bender in it this is the only way we can ship.
We will guarantee all bender's coming to you safe and sound, and you will have 1 day from the day you receive it to submit a ticket if its broken.
So your accessories will come inside the package, but your bender will not have a package it will be bubbled wrapped, until we can make the packaging that will include the bender in it this is the only way we can ship.
We will guarantee all bender's coming to you safe and sound, and you will have 1 day from the day you receive it to submit a ticket if its broken.
Sinclue
OK disagree with me, I can't force you to be right
Porquiplane
Look Into My Eyes
Got it all. Meant the bridge? The upper most metal piece in the cart. Where youd stick the needle to unclog a cart. Just put pressure on bushing as you said and it came right out. Gonna link up some images in next post. Damn tapatalk isnt as easy as a computer. Thanks OF.
not a one day warranty, you have one day after you receive it to tell us if its broken when we shipped it. So that we can replace the bender.
We are only doing this to make sure that people will report it if its broken during shipping.
OF
Well-Known Member
While it's not the upper most (the tube itself is longer if you check carefully) it sits on top of the flue and can sometimes be plucked out without pulling the flue with it. There's some heat shrink on the assembly lower down that makes pulling the flue up fatal. Best plan is to just push the lot up from below as I said.
You're welcome.
OF
Porquiplane
Look Into My Eyes
This is the 5 ohm vs the blank 2.4 ohm cart bottom contact tubing. One is slotted (the 5 ohmer) and the other is solid (except a hole from top to bottom). The slotted 5 ohmer was the leaker.
Looking down in the two carts with the tubing removed. One has a narrow hole (2.4 ohmer) and the other a larger hole (5 ohmer, leaker)
Again the slotted bottom from the 5 ohm leaker and the solid bottom from the 2.4 ohmer.
Recessed portion comparison of the vertical labeled 5 ohm leaker, and the blank 2.4. The 5 is the labeled one on the right.
Opened 5 ohm leaker with slotted bottom.
Better view of the slotted bottom 5 ohm leaker.
2.4 ohmer disassembled, see the smaller non-slotted bottom. Also the narrower rubber bushing to the right of it. The wire wasnt attached to the non-slotted bottom. Cart was dead from day 1. No idea why the oil is Green. Been in there a longgggg time.
Finally, the comparison. The top half is the 5 ohm leaker, the bottom is the DOA 2.4 ohmer. Nearly every piece is opposite of its comparison. See the narrow bushing/insulator on the bottom right with the solid/smaller bottom. Then the top right is the slotted bottom with a larger holed bushing/insulator. The 2.4 ohmer had one extra rubbed piece (obviously still attached to the wiring on the bottom half of image). Bottom cart had a longer mid section than the top 5 ohmer. You can see the size comparison.
Now... Assuming fully... Did the 5 ohmer leak due to the slotted bottom piece??? Given the 5 ohmer had puregold and the 2.4 had homebrew oil. And given the 2.4 never worked. The 5 ohmer was used until it leaked (about .3 was used before leaking began, given only .5 was ever loaded in it).
***NOW, everyone skip this untruth below*** security measures
all these images are images of images for people and things and not real or representative of anything anyone anywhere does on any basis. No responsibility for the images. Links of fake images from fake accounts with fake links, fake fake FuckTheCombustion5-0
OF
Well-Known Member
Ironically, I think the five Ohm is one of the famous 'unapproved leakproof update' carts G told us about (the one's the ex engineer approved on his own....). Two changes are evident. First is the longer tube with the cover. As I understand it it was to allow a minor leak to collect and not drain down and foul out the connector. I guess it works for a while, then the puddle gets too deep?.
The second change is the shorter flue and lowered bridge, to allow the new style internal mouthpieces to fit IIRC. I think G said something about a new gauge fixture for this, not sure if it came at the same time as the 'improved' vent tube.
My guess is the leak had to do with material and the fact it's a hotter cart? For sure neither of those changes would make it leak that I see.
OF
jambandphan03
in flavor country
Is there any way to clean the end of the hammer or is it permanently stained once used?
the ceramic will stain but you can try iso, but thats about all that can be done.
One to two minutes in chromerge (if you don't already know how to use it, don't try!).
-NDA
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
you can also torch it a bit and it will clean up some
Porquiplane
Look Into My Eyes
The 5 ohmer had a good size puddle in the bottom. think in part that the bushing/insulator had a wider bore than the 2.4 ohmer that had a tight bushing/insulator. And the improved vent in the bottom had nearly a direct route to the bottom of the cart (great idea for keeping airflow going, but bad idea cause it will surely still leak). So yes, definitely if it had pooled up enough itd pour out the bottom, given enough time and a steady enough heat.
Definitely material (puregold) played a large factor, but it was used at 3.7 volts, so not that hot. Run all the carts at 3.7 volts. Just prefer light vapor, lung issues.
jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
Will first time buyers eventually received the updated packaging?