Anyone know of a cheap way i may repair my neo on my own,i really want to keep using this vape well into the future and my chimney is currently broke as am i.
Thanks
thanks i really appreciate your response, with the glass issue out of the way i imagine this vape will last me quite a long while.If you know of someone who works with borosilicate glass, you could have them cut and polish you a 20mm length of 19mm diameter (OD) tubing. Then, after cleaning out all of the old chimney and ceramic adhesive, just wedge three thin strips of bamboo or balsa between the new glass tubing and the Neo's head to keep it in place. Strips of clarinet reeds work pretty well for that.
The baffle is very helpful to create an "oven" so that the air mixes and flows around the heating element when you inhale. So, if the wall thickness of the tubing is 1.2mm or greater, you may be able to force-fit one of the titanium screens inside the tubing BEFORE installing. But, be careful not to have it touch the coil when you install.
This solution is a total hack but it should work okay. It's how we made the initial prototypes of the Ember.
I can't express to you how impressive your customer service is even post e-commerce closure. Your pride in your products shows down to the tiniest detail. Thanks for everything @Black_Prrl, I know we will see you around in the future!Hey, all! Here are a couple of 5-min video hacks for anyone needing to replace their chimney or their coil (in the event of a "no atomizer" issue). Neither of these repairs require the high-temp bonding ceramic that we used.
Replacing the chimney:
Replacing the coil:
If you do not have an official replacement coil, you can make your own. We assume you know what you're doing and understand the risks. The coil is made from 120mm of 24 gauge Renee-41 wire, which you can get from Jacobs Online (https://jacobs-online.biz/rene_wire.htm). This is a special "super alloy" used in some rocket engines and in the foam cutting industry. It has the highest durability and oxidation resistance of any other wire we were able to source commercially. If I have time, I will make a video on how to wind a replacement using a simple jig.
I hope that this is helpful!
-Mark
I can't express to you how impressive your customer service is even post e-commerce closure. Your pride in your products shows down to the tiniest detail. Thanks for everything @Black_Prrl, I know we will see you around in the future!
Hey, all! Here are a couple of 5-min video hacks for anyone needing to replace their chimney or their coil (in the event of a "no atomizer" issue). Neither of these repairs require the high-temp bonding ceramic that we used.
Replacing the chimney:
Replacing the coil:
If you do not have an official replacement coil, you can make your own. We assume you know what you're doing and understand the risks. The coil is made from 120mm of 24 gauge Renee-41 wire, which you can get from Jacobs Online (https://jacobs-online.biz/rene_wire.htm). This is a special "super alloy" used in some rocket engines and in the foam cutting industry. It has the highest durability and oxidation resistance of any other wire we were able to source commercially. If I have time, I will make a video on how to wind a replacement using a simple jig.
I hope that this is helpful!
-Mark
This is answered a few posts up.@Black_Prrl would we be able to purchase the wire to make a coil anywhere? If so, would their be a tutorial on how to wrap it?
Thanks for everything!
My bad, thank you for pointing that out!This is answered a few posts up.
Hello Mark.Hey, all! Here are a couple of 5-min video hacks for anyone needing to replace their chimney or their coil (in the event of a "no atomizer" issue). Neither of these repairs require the high-temp bonding ceramic that we used.
Replacing the chimney:
Replacing the coil:
If you do not have an official replacement coil, you can make your own. We assume you know what you're doing and understand the risks. The coil is made from 120mm of 24 gauge Renee-41 wire, which you can get from Jacobs Online (https://jacobs-online.biz/rene_wire.htm). This is a special "super alloy" used in some rocket engines and in the foam cutting industry. It has the highest durability and oxidation resistance of any other wire we were able to source commercially. If I have time, I will make a video on how to wind a replacement using a simple jig.
I hope that this is helpful!
-Mark
Hello Mark.
Is Neo thread lock removable?(Apologise if this question was answered).
Idk if This is the best way to ask but I just saw your message on the website and I was just about to finally get a neo haha is there anywhere your aware of that sells them still? It's been on my bucket list of must haves for awhile now but lost my job a year ago due to ongoing medical issues and just now got the money's. If not it's completely okay and understandable I appreciate your time either wayThe cooling fins have a standard 510 connection with the battery module. It can be removed, though it may mean using a wrench on the fins themselves. You should wrap the fins in cloth, tape, or several layers of plastic wrap to protect them from being damaged by the wrench. We use thread locker so it may take a bit of force to unscrew at first.
Here you go, or I'll probably be putting mine up with a tarp surfer soon...Idk if This is the best way to ask but I just saw your message on the website and I was just about to finally get a neo haha is there anywhere your aware of that sells them still? It's been on my bucket list of must haves for awhile now but lost my job a year ago due to ongoing medical issues and just now got the money's. If not it's completely okay and understandable I appreciate your time either way
Probably worth pointing out USA only and no 18650 battery included.
I have not, but please report back if it works on either? I'm digging the WizardStix.Stoked that the closeout stock is available from VGEZ! I just picked one up, and have a question for y'all – has anyone used a Neo with a WizardStix or WitchStix from Dangle Supply?
I reached out to Dangle Supply via email and they let me know the WizardStix bowl is 11mm and the WitchStix bowl is 15mm, both of which are too small for the Neo, sadly.I have not, but please report back if it works on either? I'm digging the WizardStix.
ahhh. Thank you for checking that out! You will still get a lot of great use with the Neo. The silicone adaptor may also work.I reached out to Dangle Supply via email and they let me know the WizardStix bowl is 11mm and the WitchStix bowl is 15mm, both of which are too small for the Neo, sadly.
Awesome, man!I convinced my Aunt in Florida to order this from VgoodieZ and forward it to me up in Canada. It'll be a while, but looks like I should get to join the Neo family after all!
Those won't work very well, tbh. The chimney is just the same diameter and you'd never get a seal that way; the sleeve is too large to fit into the bowl; the sleeve turned inside out would conceivably work, but it would be stretched to the limit.I don't think I'll have great bowl options in house, but will try what I have before buying much else.
Anyone with experience with either of these and the Neo? They're so cheap I'm tempted to just order them to try out.
Thanks. Could the sleeve work around the outside of the bowl or does that require too exact of a fit to make sense? That's actually how I assumed it needed to be where it sort of wrapped around the bowl.Awesome, man!
Those won't work very well, tbh. The chimney is just the same diameter and you'd never get a seal that way; the sleeve is too large to fit into the bowl; the sleeve turned inside out would conceivably work, but it would be stretched to the limit.
Quick and dirty, try one of these, the 18mm female adapter with a screen high in the grind and the lower joint of your choice. You may find one that mates cleanly with the Neo, but it will certainly work with the sleeve in any case.
Usually the sleeve fits inside the bowl, and it works pretty well over a range of diameters, but if the bowl's ID is smaller that the cone of the sleeve, you can turn it inside-out and the cone spreads outward like a bell allowing it to mate usually with the top surface of the bowl. In this case there's not enough room for that (to be clear, I am using one of iDB's diffuser bowls as my standard) and while it will fit around the outer edge, it's just barely. I feel like it's way too close in a sketchy situation to be reliable.Thanks. Could the sleeve work around the outside of the bowl or does that require too exact of a fit to make sense? That's actually how I assumed it needed to be where it sort of wrapped around the bowl.
Ah gotcha. Okay, this makes more sense now. I perused this thread more and see what you mean. This whole time I'd been assuming the sleeve had to go around the bowl to seal.Usually the sleeve fits inside the bowl, and it works pretty well over a range of diameters, but if the bowl's ID is smaller that the cone of the sleeve, you can turn it inside-out and the cone spreads outward like a bell allowing it to mate usually with the top surface of the bowl. In this case there's not enough room for that (to be clear, I am using one of iDB's diffuser bowls as my standard) and while it will fit around the outer edge, it's just barely. I feel like it's way too close in a sketchy situation to be reliable.
If you were in a jam and it was all that was available to you, it would work. For the price I'd try it at least.
Edit: you could also try a Sticky Brick injector bowl, it'll work great with the sleeve, and also with other injectors you may use.