Megaton
Well-Known Member
Love it @blokenoname ! What's the heat up time like on that bad boy?
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SCAM WARNING! See how this scam works in Classifieds.
'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer
- Thread starter blokenoname
- Start date
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Still 40 secs, mate
Same kind of 50w cartridge, as in the other Mist2Go. We'll see, if I can combine this kind of small chamber/stem approach with a mesh heater RDA base. 
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Added another hole for the air intake (2 now) and also made a 10mm stainless steel stem (uses the Vapcap 'big mouthpiece').
Eagerly waiting for the postman, to bring me more new toys
Eagerly waiting for the postman, to bring me more new toys
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Yeah. Ran it the whole evening yesterday, and it worked reasonable well with the glass stems.
Still not completley how I envision it to work, though. That's why I increased air flow and added a ss stem. Works quite fine now with me pipe tobacco, but have to give it another round with the real deal tonight, to see how it performes there now
ETA: and... the new toys arrived
Still not completley how I envision it to work, though. That's why I increased air flow and added a ss stem. Works quite fine now with me pipe tobacco, but have to give it another round with the real deal tonight, to see how it performes there now
ETA: and... the new toys arrived
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Stems... stems... stems
And 7mm sized basket screens for the steel tips!
And 7mm sized basket screens for the steel tips!
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Express maple glass core Misyty
... or how to do a complete Misty in just under an hour
Ran the extended Forstner bit through the whole blank, until I had what is basically just a wooden tube. Bevel the top a bit. Heater cover is supported by the cork only. Another hole for the plug. Sand down and drill out corks; cut and taper glass heater cover; push the hc through the cork; push the cork into the heater well; screw in plug... and solder in the heater. 2nd cork to seal the bottom. Done
... or how to do a complete Misty in just under an hour
Ran the extended Forstner bit through the whole blank, until I had what is basically just a wooden tube. Bevel the top a bit. Heater cover is supported by the cork only. Another hole for the plug. Sand down and drill out corks; cut and taper glass heater cover; push the hc through the cork; push the cork into the heater well; screw in plug... and solder in the heater. 2nd cork to seal the bottom. Done
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
ETA: 
note to self...
Beware of tolerances in resistance with the cartridge heaters!
Got me ten of those 24v/30w heaters... five of which turned out to be 19ohm, while the other five were all 20ohm.
20ohm cartridge might need up to +1,0v, to achieve an equal heat output, as the 19ohm one. This 'problem' is more visible in a glass core unit, than in the steel core ones, where you have hot.. and well: hotter
New gc Misty above was a bit lacking on 12v straight at first, compared to his twin, I made some days ago... so I checked the current and compared resistances between cartridge heaters
Cranking up your vvps another notch, solved this little hiccup fast 
But if you value constant performance, check out the live resistance beforehand. Just sayin
ETA2: regarding the insulation of the cartridge leads (when going for insulated wiring), the two big red silicone sleeves covering the metal clamps that connect the leads to the wiring, have to be removed. They'd block the air flow and I doubt their heat resistance. Some cartridges have those clamps insulated with shrink tubing, when you pull of those big sleeves; some haven't. If they're blank, best get some shrink tubing and wrap them up yourself. Otherwise you've to take care, to keep those metal clamps apart within the hc, to prevent a short. Not exactly, why we'd use insulation in the first place
note to self...Beware of tolerances in resistance with the cartridge heaters!
Got me ten of those 24v/30w heaters... five of which turned out to be 19ohm, while the other five were all 20ohm.
20ohm cartridge might need up to +1,0v, to achieve an equal heat output, as the 19ohm one. This 'problem' is more visible in a glass core unit, than in the steel core ones, where you have hot.. and well: hotter
New gc Misty above was a bit lacking on 12v straight at first, compared to his twin, I made some days ago... so I checked the current and compared resistances between cartridge heaters
Cranking up your vvps another notch, solved this little hiccup fast But if you value constant performance, check out the live resistance beforehand. Just sayin
ETA2: regarding the insulation of the cartridge leads (when going for insulated wiring), the two big red silicone sleeves covering the metal clamps that connect the leads to the wiring, have to be removed. They'd block the air flow and I doubt their heat resistance. Some cartridges have those clamps insulated with shrink tubing, when you pull of those big sleeves; some haven't. If they're blank, best get some shrink tubing and wrap them up yourself. Otherwise you've to take care, to keep those metal clamps apart within the hc, to prevent a short. Not exactly, why we'd use insulation in the first place
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Case of 'bad eyeballing day'... 
ubardog
Well-Known Member
Case of 'bad eyeballing day'...
If you have making a few maybe you should get a holesaw a mm bigger than your stock "handRail?"
Like grab a 52mm for 2 inch rail . Then take the pilot/mandrill and cut it down. So you can slide holesaw over the top and find perfect center each time. I also though about this when finding the center of main hole.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
@blokenoname: is that some kind of marrow bone log concept?
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Hehehe... I suppose, you could call it that@blokenoname: is that some kind of marrow bone log concept?
@ubardog
Good idea
But the problem wasn't so much in finding the center, than rather in my attempt to drill through the whole blank from one side in one go. Even the extended bit wasn't long enough for that and after a certain depth, my vacuum cleaner can no longer suck up the sawdust out of the hole. So I had to readjust and everything got totally off, when I finally reached the other end.Will drill from both sides again, next time
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Had another ruined maple blank, that I stopped working on a few month ago already when I realized, the bore had gotten too much off center.
Before discarding it completely, I decided to use it for another 'proof of concept Misty' today, to see if I could also make a steel core work now, set on a cork base, like Alan does sometimes in his bamboo HIs.
So I cut the ss heater cover a good 2 cm longer, than my standard ss cores, to minimize conduction to the cork. It's got also a smaller washer at its base and I forwent the bigger top washer and clip-ring, that served only cosmetically purposes anyway, for the same reason.
Also created an insulated resistor heater this time, to check, if the insulation could stand the heat, if such an insulation was wished for. Have a ton of insulated wiring left, cut from the cartridge heaters, and also covered the soldered connections with simple shrink tubing (up to 200°C).
Long things short: worked out fine! Ran the new ss/cork-base unit for 12 hours straight now, and everything's ok! No stink or bad taste from melting insulation or charring cork
On the other hand, it's no real improvement in my workflow. As I have to drill out the blank from both ends anyway (see the cluster f*ck further up the thread), it's simpler to just leave a wooden step inside the body, onto which the ss core gets screwed then.
For a glass core unit, it's also simpler then, to just set the cork base on-top that wooden step
But... if you want to build a very lightweight unit, this is surely the way to go
Also made a cute little combo slide in stem from some glass & bamboo offcuts. Goes nicely with yesterday's glass core Misty
Before discarding it completely, I decided to use it for another 'proof of concept Misty' today, to see if I could also make a steel core work now, set on a cork base, like Alan does sometimes in his bamboo HIs.
So I cut the ss heater cover a good 2 cm longer, than my standard ss cores, to minimize conduction to the cork. It's got also a smaller washer at its base and I forwent the bigger top washer and clip-ring, that served only cosmetically purposes anyway, for the same reason.
Also created an insulated resistor heater this time, to check, if the insulation could stand the heat, if such an insulation was wished for. Have a ton of insulated wiring left, cut from the cartridge heaters, and also covered the soldered connections with simple shrink tubing (up to 200°C).
Long things short: worked out fine! Ran the new ss/cork-base unit for 12 hours straight now, and everything's ok!
No stink or bad taste from melting insulation or charring cork
On the other hand, it's no real improvement in my workflow. As I have to drill out the blank from both ends anyway (see the cluster f*ck further up the thread), it's simpler to just leave a wooden step inside the body, onto which the ss core gets screwed then.
For a glass core unit, it's also simpler then, to just set the cork base on-top that wooden step
But... if you want to build a very lightweight unit, this is surely the way to go
Also made a cute little combo slide in stem from some glass & bamboo offcuts. Goes nicely with yesterday's glass core Misty
Tranquility
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. I've always wanted to work towards a project and seeing your process really gives me confidence I could do it without getting an engineering degree first. Very cool.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Ok... Stainless Steel Heater Cover Upgrade
Kudos to the Master JedHI @Alan again, who explained this procedure a few pages back in this thread
Taking the 9mm OD ss tubing with the 0,5mm wall thickness this time (I usually only use 0,3mm wall thickness), I was able to machine down (or taper) the back end of the heater cover sufficiently with the Dremel and a diamond cutter disk, so that it could be pushed a few millimeters through the 8mm hole of the 25mm ss washer, I use as a base for the cover.
For that, I simply turned the cover's back end on the flat surface of the rotating diamond cutter disk, like I'd do with the glass heater covers, until it fitted through the hole in the washer. Then just take a hammer to the back end and give the millimeter or two, sticking out of the washer a few careful blows, till it's hammered flat!
Voila... solid mechanical connection between washer and tube established! You won't be able to rattle or even pry this apart apart again accidentally and there is no longer the necessity, to widen the hole in the washer itself! The given 8mm hole is ideal for the 9mm OD tubing, when tapered down
Kudos to the Master JedHI @Alan again, who explained this procedure a few pages back in this thread
Taking the 9mm OD ss tubing with the 0,5mm wall thickness this time (I usually only use 0,3mm wall thickness), I was able to machine down (or taper) the back end of the heater cover sufficiently with the Dremel and a diamond cutter disk, so that it could be pushed a few millimeters through the 8mm hole of the 25mm ss washer, I use as a base for the cover.
For that, I simply turned the cover's back end on the flat surface of the rotating diamond cutter disk, like I'd do with the glass heater covers, until it fitted through the hole in the washer. Then just take a hammer to the back end and give the millimeter or two, sticking out of the washer a few careful blows, till it's hammered flat!
Voila... solid mechanical connection between washer and tube established! You won't be able to rattle or even pry this apart apart again accidentally and there is no longer the necessity, to widen the hole in the washer itself! The given 8mm hole is ideal for the 9mm OD tubing, when tapered down
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Megaton
Well-Known Member
Ahhh the good old mechanical connection! Love this method @blokenoname , so simple and straightforward!
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Yup! Worked out very well
Still... I could do with a thinner washer of the same diameter. Will hunt for that next
ETA:
The hunt for the thinner washer ended right at the tools cabinet, where a still unopened box of flatter 25mm x 8,4mm washers materialized itself... and I can now confirm, that this method of mechanical fastening also works for the 0,3mm wall thickness ss tubing
Just be very careful there with the hammering down part Otherwise you'll ruin that super thin walled tube in no time
Still... I could do with a thinner washer of the same diameter. Will hunt for that next
ETA:
The hunt for the thinner washer ended right at the tools cabinet, where a still unopened box of flatter 25mm x 8,4mm washers materialized itself... and I can now confirm, that this method of mechanical fastening also works for the 0,3mm wall thickness ss tubing
Just be very careful there with the hammering down part
Otherwise you'll ruin that super thin walled tube in no time
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Between the 0,5mm and 0,3mm tubes? Don't think, there might be a noticeable effect, especially with the cartridge heater.
With the double sleeved core, total wall thickness approached nearly 0,8-1,0mm, which was more noticeable.
But I've set the 0,5mm core into a mahogany unit now, just to make sure.
Still love, how easyly the units with the user replaceable heater are serviced and parts exchanged. BTW... this is how the cartridge heater looks after several month of use! Still fresh as on the first day
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Shite! 
Means most of the images in this thread will somewhen vanish in to smoke
Means most of the images in this thread will somewhen vanish in to smoke
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Vapor! Up into vapor, of course... into vapour FFS!!! Not into smoke!!!
I stand corrected!Sacrilege!
On a brighter note... they had nice wooden stems at the Action market today (one of those € 1,- shops). Just € 0,79 for 4 pieces!
Ok... originally, this were the handles of BBQ skewers
Megaton
Well-Known Member
Vapor! Up into vapor, of course
Sacrilege!
On a brighter note... they had nice wooden stems at the Action market today (one of those € 1,- shops). Just € 0,79 for 4 pieces!
Ok... originally, this were the handles of BBQ skewers
Another great find! That looks really good!
And boooo to more disappearing pictures!
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
So... a bit more not so serious going on right here at Noname Labs... and another funny one shot monster Log being born
There was Alan, experimenting with a new 7/16" ss heater cover, for which I suggested the use of Arizer glass stems, as they're a perfect fit
Seeing, that he made it work, I upended the tool & vape stuff cabinet, till I found the remaining length of 11mm OD ss tubing, left from my very first attempts at doing steel cores, that I tried months ago. Back then, the classic 5mm OD resistor heater felt a bit cold and forlorn, within that more spacious 11mm heater cover and due to too much airflow, vapor production was suboptimal.
Now I took a 19ohm cartridge heater and wound a piece of 1,2mm ss wire around it (like we'd do with one leg of the resistor), to help centering the heater within the wider heater cover and also, to create turbulences in the airflow.
I also sat the heater high up within the heater cover, directly beneath its front end, to optimize the unit for use with Arizer glass stems, to slide over the cover. There is a small recess left though, between the debris screen and the edge of the tube, to allow connecting of a VapCap for use as a stem, or whatever has a 10mm OD tip for a bowl. Two handed affair then, though.
Managed to put all this into another recycled mahogany body (11mm heater cover is just clamped down with a clipring in this one) and gave it a bottom cap, made from ash, that I had still lying around. Simply glued on this time.
Result: Hits like a truck
You get nice, evenly (coffee browned) dead flower from this, with the Arizer stems. Dead, as can be
@brainiac
Coming back to our discussion of how to do WonGs, this here would be the most simple method I can think of, apart from the disk sander thingie
Only caveat: blade's bloody angle is wrong! Set that knife to about 5° somehow, and you've the world's finest WonG 'sharpener'
going on right here at Noname Labs... and another funny one shot monster Log being born There was Alan, experimenting with a new 7/16" ss heater cover, for which I suggested the use of Arizer glass stems, as they're a perfect fit
Seeing, that he made it work, I upended the tool & vape stuff cabinet, till I found the remaining length of 11mm OD ss tubing, left from my very first attempts at doing steel cores, that I tried months ago. Back then, the classic 5mm OD resistor heater felt a bit cold and forlorn, within that more spacious 11mm heater cover and due to too much airflow, vapor production was suboptimal.
Now I took a 19ohm cartridge heater and wound a piece of 1,2mm ss wire around it (like we'd do with one leg of the resistor), to help centering the heater within the wider heater cover and also, to create turbulences in the airflow.
I also sat the heater high up within the heater cover, directly beneath its front end, to optimize the unit for use with Arizer glass stems, to slide over the cover. There is a small recess left though, between the debris screen and the edge of the tube, to allow connecting of a VapCap for use as a stem, or whatever has a 10mm OD tip for a bowl. Two handed affair then, though.
Managed to put all this into another recycled mahogany body (11mm heater cover is just clamped down with a clipring in this one) and gave it a bottom cap, made from ash, that I had still lying around. Simply glued on this time.
Result: Hits like a truck
You get nice, evenly (coffee browned) dead flower from this, with the Arizer stems. Dead, as can be
@brainiac
Coming back to our discussion of how to do WonGs, this here would be the most simple method I can think of, apart from the disk sander thingie
Only caveat: blade's bloody angle is wrong! Set that knife to about 5° somehow, and you've the world's finest WonG 'sharpener'
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brainiac
log wrangler
You could call it The Misty Monster
Tagline: Watch out for the truck!!
Seriously though, that's a great new build option
.The spiral ss wire is a clever idea. How is it held in place? Just friction?
And what's the ID of the heater cover?
It's Wong WeeK here at Brainiac Towers so advice on all matters WonGish is welcome.
The 'WonG sharpener' would work if scaled up a bit. Or just used as-is for mouthpieces.
To make mine I've been paring away some of the excess with a chisel then using a disc sander
on the drill press (not ideal as you can't see what you're doing) to shape the blank into a 'roughout',
finally it goes into the drill press and gets sanded at 5 degrees.
I'll get round to posting a pic of that last bit.
As a matter of interest does anyone know the exact angle of taper used on glass adapters?
I'm using 5 degrees which works well but it's not a perfect fit.