The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

Finessseee

Finessseee

Well-Known Member
4-Aces King-High said:
I personally cancelled my order for the 45 watt super-charger that charges 80% In 40-45 minutes.
afaik from Reading on the subject that it degrades the life of rechargeable-batteries by charging at a higher rate of Current. Storz & Bickel Factory-Battery -Replacement would be In line imb .( in my book)
I just charge my Mighty-Plus at the normal rate,1 or 2 amp charging . Supercharger is 45 Watts .
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Damn I ended up ordering it from POTV. Should I cancel it? @condition @4-Aces King-High
 
Finessseee,
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webtroter

Well-Known Member
Finessseee said:
Two Quick questions, 1. is it safe to use an alternate third party charging cube? 2. If so, what’s the recommended wattage for the Mighty+ super charging capabilities? I have a few Anker cubes at home around 50-60Wats I believe. Wondering if it’s even worth buying the default super charger or just using my own rigged up one. Any thoughts on this?
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Any USB-C PD 45W and over should be able to supercharge.
 
vapviking

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Finessseee said:
If you submitted the S&B Warranty online they give you an extra year of warranty so it ends up being 3 years @Bazinga
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Maybe not.
I know that extra year was advertised for Crafty+.
I bought a Mighty Og less than a year ago, registered, and asked if my Mighty got the extra year and the answer was no, only the 2 years.
I assume the Mighty+ would qualify, but personally don't know for sure.
 
Bazinga

Bazinga

Well-Known Member
vapviking said:
Pose your question directly to S&B? They might at least offer you a discount on a swap for a new one...

Or, as the big trend on FC indicates, get a TinyMight2. :lol:
(disclosure, I don't have one...)
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Have 2 TMs that are working very well. Don’t feel the need to buy version 2 (at least not yet). As you and others have suggested, I sent an email to S&B support.
 
4-Aces King-High

4-Aces King-High

Well-Known Member
Finessseee said:
Damn I ended up ordering it from POTV. Should I cancel it? @condition @4-Aces King-High
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I did after reading that charging at a higher amperage/watts reduces battery lifespan.
Not sure -no fact-checking .
I mostly did it because I have been buying other products for my favorite vapes. And already covered 18650 vapes c just in case myMighty plus is charging.
 
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njcrcmcp

New Member
webtroter said:
Hi guys,

I just ordered my first S&B device, a mighty plus :) . I also picked up a few capsules.

I have a couple dynavap stem that with the mighty sometimes (a revolve and simrell MVS).

I also would like to use it through a water piece.

Would the Starry XMAX Water Pipe Adapter help me with fitting a dynavap stem? Or I need to buy the simrell adapter?

Thanks all.
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Hey where did you buy it? Any good deals?
 
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WirtDog

Well-Known Member
I have an OG Mighty that is 3 years old with 18 months as a daily driver. Very excellent condition. It has never been dropped. I became frustrated with the Mighty and not being able to go above 210 degrees F and got into DynaVap and IH units. I’ve been primarily using DV for the last 18 months.

The batteries are getting weak so I contacted S&B to ask about cost to replace the batteries? It takes roughly 105 seconds to go from room temp to 410F. Cost for S&B to replace the batteries was $ 150 plus postage and insurance.

Recently, I got the OG Mighty out and tried it with capsules? I was pleasantly surprised at how well the capsules worked.
Then, seemingly all of a sudden, the draw became much less free flowing? I have two cooling units which I alternate. I cleaned them both and replaced all the screens and o-rings. Still no improvement.

I searched here and found some instructions about how to clear the air intake on the vape. I found a perfectly sized piece of stiff metal wire that allowed me to clear both channels at the bottom of the vape. I also used a MetroVac blower to blow air backwards thru the hot air holes. Additionally, I tried to blow back through the factory cooling unit to try to dislodge any material that might be clogging the air intake.

Is there anything else that could be done to deal with this problem? It seems to be a weak point in the design and I can find nothing in the manual that addresses this issue.

I have taken very good care of this vape and I hate to just throw it out due to this issue. It does not seem worth it to send it back to the factory to replace the batteries and clean the air intake channels. I have tried with a flashlight to see where the actual holes are for the air intake but the gap is so small I just cannot see anything. I have been very hesitant to put much 91% alcohol down the heater holes.

Any other ideas or thoughts on what I might try before throwing this one out or putting it in storage?
 
vapviking

vapviking

Old & In the Way
WirtDog said:
he batteries are getting weak so I contacted S&B to ask about cost to replace the batteries? It takes roughly 105 seconds to go from room temp to 410F.
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I don't think this is too far off the normal heatup time for a Mighty.
One other indicator would be how many chambers you are able to vape on a charge. Should be at least 6, probably more, but if this is the range, you really don't need batter swap.

On cleaning the airpath, seems you have tried all but disassembly, which does reveal more to clean, at the possible expense of damaging the case in the process. I assume you cleared all the little holes just below the chamber screen?
 
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WirtDog

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your response. Yes, I removed the bottom screen and made sure the holes were clear? It was very clean in that area.

It is just weird that this seemed to occur all of a sudden.

The other thing with the batteries is once you get below half charged the batteries seem to go away more quickly than when new.

It is a frustrating dilemma because this unit has been kept very clean and has never been dropped. I bought a base for it with the vape purchase and it has really helped to protect it.

I am guessing it would cost me close to $200 to send it to Germany for battery swap and cleaning. For roughly $ 320 I could buy a Mighty+ but I have that same 410F limit that is a source of frustration.
 
Vape_Or_Die420

Vape_Or_Die420

Well-Known Member
I swear I heard either Troy or Jerry say if you plug your phone into the Mighty+ it will charge your phone. I guess Mr. Bickel gave him this pointer for dealing with TSA while flying with the Mighty+.

Can anyone confirm?

Hesitated asking this question, gonna feel super stupid and take a tolerance break if I’m wrong 😂
 
vapviking

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Would be better if the phone charged the Mighty...through some kind of cloud thingy. :tinfoil: :rolleyes:

edit- I recently bough a battery powered lawnmower. One factor helping me decide which kind was the batteries in this one have a usb port and can charge my phone -or whatever! run a light when power goes down...
 
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WirtDog

Well-Known Member
vapviking said:
@WirtDog , I'm linking to my battery replacement post -- mainly because there are two pics that show the very bottom of the airpath tube, so that you might have a better idea what is inside there.

The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

Here's what the inside of the V2 stainlesss steel cooling unit for the Crafty looks like. I imagine the Mighty is very similiar.
fuckcombustion.com
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Thanks so much!! Appreciate the help. I just watched a YouTube video on battery replacement? It really helps to understand how the case comes apart. That video did not show where the airport tube was located or how to clear it when the case is opened.

I am testing to see how my current batteries compare with new? Nothing beats a good test to establish some baseline. I think I could replace the batteries but I am still convinced the draw on the device is not right.

vapviking said:
Dis-Assembly & Battery Replacement, Mighty (#MY0234XX, circa 10/2015)
-- New batteries, internal cleaning (June 17, 2020)

As I mentioned a couple posts up, the batteries came from @JCat , though idk the spec, they are either 3,000 or maybe 3120 mAh versus 2700’s that came out. His thread for replacement battery, instructions, video, discussion etc.:
Custom Crafty Battery Packs for Easy Replacement

Separately, there’s a pretty good Youtube (below) of a battery job on a Mighty, very helpful; there don’t seem to be many around.
I cannot vouch for the safety of the soldering practices in this video (I just don’t know enough about it).
He also did not point out the bottom latch clearly.
To open the case he used a 1.5 mm hex driver. I believe the 1.5 mm is probably correct, but I could not get mine to fit. I used a 1/16” hex driver instead. It worked fine right up to the end; on re-tightening the last bit I probably did some damage to the screw. I hope I don’t need to open the case ever again.
The Youtube does show the tabs and slots at the top clearly and how to slide the case open.

I hope I’m not too imprecise or redundant in my descriptions below. I was not intending a full-blown instructional-type guide, just some of my experience.

I exposed the screw holes with a sharp knife:


View attachment 1242

The two halves of the case interlock at three points, two at the top and one at the bottom. After removing the two case screws, remove the orange poker and under it is the tab to push. It is visible in next photo. Push in on tab and pry the halves apart slightly at the bottom seam using a screwdriver or poker. This took a minute or two; stubborn parts after years together.

Do not pull the halves more than about ½” apart at bottom -- they are attached by tabs at the top that can easily break. The Youtube shows these steps clearly.
You can see the 4 top tabs hanging down from the top edge in next photo. They fit into slots on the other half.

Slide the back cover up so it’s tabs clear their matching slots on the housing front cover. This also took some gentle persuasion. I did break both slots at the top, but one end of each did not break off, so I was able to re-assemble “okay” when the time came. Phew.
I now understand the reason some Mighty's seem to "come apart at the seam" along the top. The slots are not much sturdier than the little railings that break so easily near the chamber sides. The tabs you see here are stronger than the slots into which they fit.

View attachment 1251

Next are existing internals. There is debris at the entry to the air path, seen in next two photos:

View attachment 1257

View attachment 1243

And next shows the air path entry hole, cleared but not yet cleaned. It’s the crescent shaped hole at the bottom of the plastic case that holds the heater and its' housing, the heater's temp sensor and the chamber.

View attachment 1244

The plastic housing and metal insert that holds the heater and chamber. The insert is shown again in the photo that follows this one.

View attachment 1245

Next photo is the insert assembly that houses the heater and the air path and has the chamber fastened to it.

The round hole centered at the bottom is where the heater tube inserts, and the semi-circular hole is the air intake.

The heater itself is a tube-like stick, seen on the mat in the background of the photo below. I did not get a photo of the heater’s temp sensor.

Note the black o-ring (was originally blue, silicone) around the outside of the chamber. I should have measured this, it should be s.o.p. to replace this as part of this procedure; maybe a guess of size can be made based on the chamber it encircles. The ring broke into 3 pieces and I did not have a match, but I did fashion one from some high temp silicone tubing and was able to move forward. Unfortunately, no pics of that either.

I soaked the metal insert (all aluminum?) in iso alcohol for about 90 minutes. You can’t see light through this tube; there is some sort of baffle at the top just below chamber holes, that prevents seeing anything inside the tubes. It would be fascinating to see the insides! I could not ascertain if or where the two paths might join together; didn’t spend much time exploring that.

View attachment 1247

Next are two pics of the new batteries.
@JCat soldered the leads on, added the proper plugs and wrapped all. Nicely done!
I swapped the temp. sensors on to them from the old batteries, and I also peeled/stuck some end covers from the old to the new. There was also a bumper stuck on top end of each battery, for snug fit.

View attachment 1248

View attachment 1249

All back in place in next photo. On the left-hand battery I did have to move the temp sensor a little to the right before the cover would fit on. It is a fussy fit, all the stuff in there!

View attachment 1250

As I mentioned, the two slots at top of case broke partially during opening, though they are holding well enough on assembly.
I also had to fashion an o-ring to replace the brittle one.
In the end, it all snapped together and looks just fine.
I replaced all the other seals, the chamber screen and the mouthpiece stem. I leave c/u screen off lately.

I admit that I wanted the chamber to look clean, so I used a very fine sandpaper on the aluminum chamber walls, just enough to clean it up. I’m sure this has created some fine scratches that will just trap gunk sooner, but I have been trying to use capsules a lot lately and using them keeps the bowl cleaner. I don't recommend the sandpaper treatment, btw. To the bowl, that is...

The draw is marginally better, I believe mainly due to the removal of lint/debris from the entrance to the airway. Deep cleaning (iso soaking) the air path had to help on some level as well.

The Mighty, when fully charged now heats in 1 minute, 15 seconds (29C to 180C). I believe this is faster than when new!
I've now got the "20% more battery power" Mighty.

Long may it run!
With a little luck, I won't need a Mighty+!

Thanks again @JCat for taking the initiative, and to @SquirrelMaster and @Stu for teaching me how to do photos here.
I've learned that 10 pix per post is the limit, good thing that's all I had...
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It was your video that I stumbled upon? I echo what others have said that you have done a good service for the Mighty community. Very well done and very helpful. Something as basic as how the halves come apart? I had been under the impression that they used some kind of adhesive. Nice to know that won’t be necessary if I do mine at some point.
 
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balarama

Well-Known Member
I'm a happy Mighty user for some years now, I bought used unit and now the battery life is not as it was.
So I'm thinking of options for the near future.
1. Change the batteries
2. Get a new Mighty(same old model)
3. Get a new Mighty+
4. Get something else(what is as good?)
What would you do in my situation?

Thanks for any feedback
 
F

felvapes

Well-Known Member
balarama said:
I'm a happy Mighty user for some years now, I bought used unit and now the battery life is not as it was.
So I'm thinking of options for the near future.
1. Change the batteries
2. Get a new Mighty(same old model)
3. Get a new Mighty+
4. Get something else(what is as good?)
What would you do in my situation?

Thanks for any feedback
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I can't tell what will be the best fit for you at all
But my ALP has recently retired my mighty
I've had two over the years and just sold my last one
I've heard good things about the TM2 and the Roffu also
 
Finessseee

Finessseee

Well-Known Member
balarama said:
I'm a happy Mighty user for some years now, I bought used unit and now the battery life is not as it was.
So I'm thinking of options for the near future.
1. Change the batteries
2. Get a new Mighty(same old model)
3. Get a new Mighty+
4. Get something else(what is as good?)
What would you do in my situation?

Thanks for any feedback
Click to expand...
Can’t hurt to at least try to change the batteries yourself if your Mighty is already on its last legs. Pick up an AirVapeLegacyPro at some point, they have $100~ off promos often. I’ll prob snag one during Black Friday
 
D

DadaBoo

B2, Mighty+, M/Omni, Volcano Hybrid, TM2, Anvil
WirtDog said:
Recently, I got the OG Mighty out and tried it with capsules? I was pleasantly surprised at how well the capsules worked.
Then, seemingly all of a sudden, the draw became much less free flowing?
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This could be a shot in the dark and maybe not related to the issues you are experiencing but, how tightly do you pack your capsules?

The reason I ask is because I use capsules all the time in my Mighty+ and I was experimenting the other day to see how much herb I could cram in a capsule. It's one of the things I love about the Mighty, there does not appear to be any special way to pack, it gets on with job regardless. However, when I used my ridiculously packed capsule, the air flow was very noticeably reduced.

Chances are this is not the issue you are experiencing but Its worth checking your airflow without a capsule inserted to see if it feels 'looser'.

Happy vaping.
 
D

DadaBoo

B2, Mighty+, M/Omni, Volcano Hybrid, TM2, Anvil
felvapes said:
I only used caps with my mighty
I removed the screen above the bowl as it wasn't needed with the caps
This made the airflow better and no more screen getting clogged or needing cleaning
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Ohh, I'm gonna have to try that now.

I only use capsules as well so it makes perfect sense removing that screen.

Thanks for tip mate, most appreciated.
 
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