Alright so I made the PonG adapter aka "muzzmod" for my mighty and crafty. I took a few pics to try and simplify things since some see a torch in the original tutorial by
@elmomuzz and get scared away without getting the chance to experience another level to an already amazing device. I will try to explain things as best as I can.
I first want to note that a torch or any fire is NOT required. In fact, no modification to your glass adapter is needed unless you get some crappy glass (no offense) and it needs to be smoothed out to your liking. Chances are however, you won't need to touch your glass at all as it will already be smoothed out so don't worry until you actually get the adapter and see that it has rough edges. I got my adapters for $5 each on eBay and they came in excellent and very smooth condition. They could have been sold at $10 each easily. I guess it depends on which seller you get it from, so do your research.
The first thing you will need to do is cut down your donor cooling unit which you will be using for this mod. I already posted this a couple pages back but I will add the pics here as well. I decided to use a dremel instead of a hacksaw to make things a lot easier and faster for myself. All it took was a steady hand and then slowly cutting down into the "tabs" as much as I could (referenced in one of the pics below how to make the slice on its side) and then I slid it from left to right to make a even slice all across. I then flipped the cooling unit over and repeated the same on the other side and the piece you will use for the mod will fall off. The cutting process takes 30 seconds, if that. What is needed after the cut is to sand down the surface that has the "tabs" sticking up to give it a flat smooth surface so the glass adapter can sit flush. For this, I just swapped out the cutting wheel for a sanding wheel and used my dremel again. You can use a coarse grit sand paper instead and get the same results but with more time and effort. The final result should be a flat smooth surface where the adapter will sit.
I took an extra step and decided to widen the hole on the plastic piece to let more air/vapor through. I used a fine diamond bur bit to smoothly widen the hole with the dremel. After I felt satisfied, I stopped and threw the plastic piece in iso for 6 min and then rinsed it under hot water to clean it off.
Now that the plastic part is ready for the adapter, you can focus on the glass. Fortunately for me, the adapters I purchased were already very smooth and needed no filing whatsoever, so I skipped this step altogether. However, for some of you unfortunate ones with rough glass, I included a pic of how you can file the edges to make it smooth with diamond filers instead of needing to use a torch. The torch gives you the smoothest finish and is quite simple itself in the right conditions, but this is another good alternative which will give you a smooth finish as well and it's very simple and easy to do. You also don't need any fancy diamond filers. I got some cheap chinese filers from amazon. I have used them on my solo and air stems and they do the job well. You can even use diamond bits in your dremel if you want instead. It's up to you. After your done, throw the adapter in iso for a few minutes and then rinse it in hot water to clean it off.
Once the glass and plastic is ready, you will need to mount them together and apply the jb weld. The easiest way to do this is with a trigger clamp. I ended up using a 42" heavy duty clamp which I already had out for a wooden dresser I recently built. You want to place the glass ontop of the plastic piece and clamp them down together. Don't tighten it too much so you can shift them around a bit to line it up the way you want it to look once the epoxy is dried and cured. Once you have everything lined up, tighten the clamp until tight enough not to move. Now for the jb weld, I used a small ceramic bowl with aluminium foil covering it. Squeeze your jb weld with an even amount from each tube and mix it together. It will become an all black paste. I used 2 toothpicks together to carefully apply the epoxy but this is up to you what you want to use as an applicator. Just note that the epoxy is messy but the good thing is, it wipes clean off the glass if still fresh so you can clean up if you spill a bit or put too much around the adapter. One trick you can do which I didnt take the time to do so myself is to use masking tape to put around the base of the adapter so you have a clean line after applying the epoxy. Just make sure to remove the tape a couple minutes after you apply the weld while its still fresh. You want to make a full solid seal around the seam between the glass and plastic. Make sure you DO NOT get any jb weld inside of the airpath where the vapor will travel as you can inhale harmful fumes. Apply only on the outside. After your done applying the epoxy, let it sit clamped until it's dried. I personally left it clamped overnight.
Once the epoxy has dried and cured, unclamp the adapter and you have yourself a PonG or "muzzmod" as many call it. Enjoy!
I hope this post helps some of you intimidated to attempt this mod. It's actually really easy if you think about. Cut your cooling unit, sand it down, clamp the glass adapter to the plastic piece and apply the epoxy to it. If you by chance received rough glass, file it down a bit to smooth it up and that's it. Let the epoxy dry and your done!
-Mark
that j hook looks overkill too...hope you don't have shit to do 
