The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

[biohacker]

I think the muzzmod is great, and thank you for sharing. But I have a very hard time believing it makes THAT much of a difference. I mean, you're eliminating the CU sure, but I just don't see how you can have "more" vapour etc. with just the elimination of a small plastic piece. I know everyone's experience is subjective, but my SonG from @Ratchett delivers as thick as any of my previous vapes (Herbie, EVO, EQ etc). I would love to try a muzzmod, but just don't see it financially viable for myself personally, especially when my SonG delivers, just not as convenient I suppose.

Perhaps I misconstrued @BioSector but wouldn't it make sense to cache a bowl in 3 big hits at 210 if you previously were taking 4-5 at 180 and 3-4 at 195?

 

[subway13029]

The muzzmod just allows for a more open airlow..and it does produce more vapor as opposed to putting an adapter on the cooling units..I just made a few for other members and when I finally get them out..lol...we will let their opinions speak as well..I really love the muzzmod..

 

[biohacker]

I guess the muzzmod would prevent vapour condensate in the CU, but wouldn't it just end up condensing on your glass? I'm almost thinking that using the CU w/SonG would actually produce a smoother hit than the muzzmod.

 

[justcametomind]

I use a male to male adapter, some medical grade silicone tube attached to the CU.
Smooth hits heaven, the only thing I think is out of the picture without a muzzmod is that maybe it prevents the unit to go insanely hot as mine does. Almost all the times I use glass with my unit I reach overheating, does it happen using a muzzmod?
And yes, a bowl is spent with 3 or 4 hits as well. I like also to revape Abv with glass, getting vapor from already Crafty spent herb.

 

[biohacker]

Overheating? With the Mighty?? Happened all the time with my Crafty, never with Mighty.

 

[justcametomind]

Crafty

 

[Pyr0]

I find the hits are slightly smoother through the CU than the muzzmod, but that seems obvious to me as surely less of the goodies are reaching your lungs with the CU attached (collecting all that reclaim).
Unless I add keif/reclaim to a bowl, I only get 2, maybe 2.5 hits with either method as I just use 410F/210C with water.
But because of the more open airflow of the muzzmod I definitely find I have to control my draw speed as I can easily overpower the heater in my Mighty, making the temperature readout shoot down to 400 and below.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Does anyone have a dead/dying Mighty they could lend me?? I am seriously thinking about taking a crack at a second Mighty SonG designed to replace the cooling unit completely......

Anyone interested in helping me develop (and beta test) a new SonG? PM me PLEASE

- Edit -
Looks like I've got a Mighty heading my way! Time to get started on some new designs. I hear ya'll want some sort of stand to hold the Mighty upright, if there's any other 3D printed accessories I can help with, please let me know. I'd like to bust out as many accessories as possible before returning the vape

Did I ever say how much I fucking love this community - FC Rocks!

 

[BioSector]

@biohacker I don't think it's producing more vapour per se just that it is making a better seal in my case. It's been a couple months since I used the SonGs but I didn't cache a whole bowl in 3 draws using it if memory serves.

Maybe my lung capacity has improved in that time though too. Whatever the secret, I'm impressed.

Edit: I had just finished those 3 huge clouds when I wrote that last night so a slight exaggeration about how good compared to my fuzzy memory of SonG is to be expected.

edit2: Trying to figure what you mean about it making sense that 3 draws at 210 would cache a bowl when regular (non muzz, non SonG, just straight cooling unit to mouth) takes longer. Maybe you thought I was doing the 210 draws on the same bowl after the 180/195 draws?

I mean that when I use just the vape, no attachments I can get 4-5 draws (10ish seconds per draw) at 180, then 3-4 more at boost temp.

Through muzz and bong, it was 3 draws total compared to 7-9. Granted, the 3 draws were probably more like 20 seconds each since I was trying to milk the glass.

 

[VegNVape]

edit2: Trying to figure what you mean about it making sense that 3 draws at 210 would cache a bowl when regular (non muzz, non SonG, just straight cooling unit to mouth) takes longer. Maybe you thought I was doing the 210 draws on the same bowl after the 180/195 draws?

I mean that when I use just the vape, no attachments I can get 4-5 draws (10ish seconds per draw) at 180, then 3-4 more at boost temp.

Through muzz and bong, it was 3 draws total compared to 7-9. Granted, the 3 draws were probably more like 20 seconds each since I was trying to milk the glass.

Hey bud

I THINK what @biohacker was getting at was that you originally said that you cached a bowl in around 9 hits starting out at the lower temps, through the cu & SonG.

And you said you cached a bowl in 3 hits starting at a high temp through the Muzzmod.

I guess if you are attempting to compare the SonG to the Muzzmod, to be fair you should really use the same temps for both senarios as higher temps will likely cache a bowl much faster than lower temps.

Am I close biohacker?

 

[biohacker]

Thanks @VegNVape , regardless i have huge lungs, and caching a .25g (full bowl of high quality i'm assuming) in 3 hits is super impressive to me, and probably doesn't even surprise me given the videos i've viewed with the muzzmod. I can't even come close to crushing a full bowl with the SonG in 3 hits, it definitely doesnt seal as well as the muzzmod.

 

[BioSector]

Hey bud

I THINK what @biohacker was getting at was that you originally said that you cached a bowl in around 9 hits starting out at the lower temps, through the cu & SonG.

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I was comparing muzzmod to direct CU to mouth, no water. Using SonG I would start at 210 too but it would last longer, not the 7-9 but certainly not 3 like muzzmod.

Regarding the higher temperature finishing the bowl quicker though, I am not sure how that works. I would expect a higher starting temp would mean denser vapour since more was being boiled off, but not less overall?

The problem with all this discussion is it happens after sessions so I'm easily confused.

 

[VegNVape]

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I was comparing muzzmod to direct CU to mouth, no water. Using SonG I would start at 210 too but it would last longer, not the 7-9 but certainly not 3 like muzzmod.

Regarding the higher temperature finishing the bowl quicker though, I am not sure how that works. I would expect a higher starting temp would mean denser vapour since more was being boiled off, but not less overall?

The problem with all this discussion is it happens after sessions so I'm easily confused.

Ha, no worries I completely understand that.

It makes it MORE fun!

Fancy some more confusion?

How about this:
Higher temps extract more cannabinoids all together at the same time, hence the denser vapor. Additionally, there are obviously only a finite amount of canabinoids available in one bowl.

If you temp step a session, even over only a couple of temperature ranges you are going to get more hits with less dense vapor. This is because you are extracting fewer cannabinoids at each step in the temperature due to the canabinoids having different vaporization points. So, as you are extracting fewer at a time, it means that there are more left to be extracted on the next hit when compared to if you had just extracted more of the canabinoids at a higher temperature.


Make sense?

Maybe . . . . . not?

I think you should hit your Mighty until it all feels just right.






Peace bro.

 

[BioSector]

You blew my mind but when it came back it was like Neo at the end of the Matrix. I said whoa and it all became clear.

 

[VegNVape]

 

[Marky]

UPDATE on the "muzzmod".

I find the "jb weld kwik" epoxy not to be reliable to be honest. My adapter quickly came clean off the plastic piece with the jb weld still on the glass once it heated up. I normally dont vape under 390° as I go for effect and the taste is still there (many times better than combusting) and then I raise it to 410° after 3-5 draws.

The jb weld doesn't adhere well to the plastic. I decided to make the surface of my plastic piece more rough to give it more grip. I sanded it down with 80 grit sandpaper instead of using my dremel and then I moved up to 150 grit paper and left it alone after that. There is a semi smooth surface as a result.

As for the epoxy, I decided to use my tried and true loctite epoxy that I use on all my wood work and other diy's.

This stuff is no joke! I mixed some up and applied it to the seam between my adapter and plastic piece while clamped. I had to leave for work so I left the PonG adapter clamped until the morning when it should be fully dried. I will post pics of it when I get home and will put it to the test to see how it holds up. I don't see it coming off now but time will tell....

I also like that the loctite dries clear. Its a cleaner look. And again, this stuff is no joke! I have built dressers with no nails or screws before. Yea, you read that correct and I haven't had a single fail to date. This stuff is amazing. I don't see it letting me down now.

-Mark

 

[MinnBobber]

I also like that the loctite dries clear. Its a cleaner look. And again, this stuff is no joke! I have built dressers with no nails or screws before. Yea, you read that correct and I haven't had a single fail to date. This stuff is amazing. I don't see it letting me down now.

-Mark

.........................................
I'm thinking about making a few muzzmods so very interested in how the loctite epoxy works after it dries and it is subject to high temp.

How is it to work with, specifically do the two tubes stay easy to use or do the tips get clogged up with dry product? Does each tube stay squeezable after opening?
Thanks

 

[Marky]

.........................................
I'm thinking about making a few muzzmods so very interested in how the loctite epoxy works after it dries and it is subject to high temp.

How is it to work with, specifically do the two tubes stay easy to use or do the tips get clogged up with dry product? Does each tube stay squeezable after opening?
Thanks

I will give another update in a few hours after I get off work. I will even attempt to use it if I see it's cured enough. Once cured however, the loctite is harder than the jb weld. I know from my past experience with it. This epoxy is beyond strong. I wanted to use it at first but I figured I'd go with what was used in the original tutorial. But I should've went with my gut. As for the heat, that's the only thing new to me with the loctite. I hope it will cope well with the heat, we shall see....

As for the opened bottles, I use masking tape to seal the bottle and the lid as well and then put the cap on it. I found this is the best way to keep it fresh after its opened but even if you simply just keep it closed with the cap, it should stay good for a couple months before getting hard. The resin lasts the longest. The hardener will dry out first. I had this pack in the pic for months, I just never used it. I had purchased a few boxes when they were on sale less than a yr ago.

-Mark

 

[BioSector]

As for the heat, that's the only thing new to me with the loctite. I hope it will cope well with the heat, we shall see....

From the datasheet:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/EPXY_HEAVY_tds.pdf

Service Temperature:
Long Term Exposure: -9°F(-23°C) to 120°F(49°C)
Short Term Exposure: -9°F(-23°C) to 302°F(150°C)​

Kwik is rated to 300F as well, but the jb weld (non kwik) is 500F if memory serves me. (edited in facts) So far after a few sessions mine has held up. I will be honest, it will not be my primary method of vaping so my use case may be different than yours going forward.

http://www.jbweld.com/products/kwikweld-twin-tube

J-B KwikWeld cures to a dark grey color, is rated at a tensile strength of 2424 PSI and will withstand temperatures up to 300ºF.​

http://www.jbweld.com/pages/faqs

Original j-b weld can withstand a constant temperature of 500º F. The maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600º F for a short term (10 minutes). Refer to individual product packages for more temperature information.​

@biohacker I did some science for you tonight. Broke out the scale before loading up the Mighty, turns out my usual amount is .20g of this particular strain. I used stopwatch to time my tokes. The first was just shy of 30 seconds including the clearing of the chamber. Dropped the temp from 211 to about 202. It was pretty damn big but I held it in no issues. Number 2 was about 25 seconds and was noticeably less dense. Number 3 was under 20 seconds and was very little vapor.

 

[Marky]

From the datasheet:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/EPXY_HEAVY_tds.pdf

Service Temperature:
Long Term Exposure: -9°F(-23°C) to 120°F(49°C)
Short Term Exposure: -9°F(-23°C) to 302°F(150°C)​

Kwik is rated to 300F as well, but the jb weld (non kwik) is 500F if memory serves me. (edited in facts) So far after a few sessions mine has held up. I will be honest, it will not be my primary method of vaping so my use case may be different than yours going forward.

http://www.jbweld.com/products/kwikweld-twin-tube

J-B KwikWeld cures to a dark grey color, is rated at a tensile strength of 2424 PSI and will withstand temperatures up to 300ºF.​

http://www.jbweld.com/pages/faqs

Original j-b weld can withstand a constant temperature of 500º F. The maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600º F for a short term (10 minutes). Refer to individual product packages for more temperature information.​

@biohacker I did some science for you tonight. Broke out the scale before loading up the Mighty, turns out my usual amount is .20g of this particular strain. I used stopwatch to time my tokes. The first was just shy of 30 seconds including the clearing of the chamber. Dropped the temp from 211 to about 202. It was pretty damn big but I held it in no issues. Number 2 was about 25 seconds and was noticeably less dense. Number 3 was under 20 seconds and was very little vapor.

Don't forget that the epoxy is on the outside of the seam so the temps aren't the actual temps of the vape. Loctite short term as you stated says 302°f which should be adequate enough imo. A session for me lasts 8 min, sometimes 10. I will use my infared heat gun I use for my bearded dragons vivariums and point it at the epoxy itself while on the unit to see how hot it gets.

Not sure what happened with the jb weld but like I said, it came clean off the plastic part like nothing was ever there but stuck on the glass. I did have it super smooth after sanding so that could have been why, which is why I used a more coarse grit sandpaper to give the surface more texture this time around with the loctite.

The loctite bonds and basically becomes one with the material it's on. The jb weld doesn't seem to "bond" but it's more of a glue that sits ontop from my experience. I use the loctite epoxy many times and I can tell you as far as strength, this stuff is much stronger than jb weld. Jb weld may be more heat resistant (the kwik version is less heat resistant in short term exposure however) which is what's needed in this case but the strength and bonding just isn't there for me. Jb weld kwik has a tensile strength rated at 2424 psi while the loctite hd has a rating of 3597 psi after 24 hours of curing time.

And just to note, jb weld doesn't specifically say it's used for glass and plastic while loctite does.

I will let you guys know how the loctite holds up.

-Mark

 

[VegNVape]

Don't forget that the epoxy is on the outside of the seam so the temps aren't the actual temps of the vape. Loctite short term as you stated says 302°f which should be adequate enough imo. A session for me lasts 8 min, sometimes 10. I will use my infared heat gun I use for my bearded dragons vivariums and point it at the epoxy itself while on the unit to see how hot it gets.

Not sure what happened with the jb weld but like I said, it came clean off the plastic part like nothing was ever there but stuck on the glass. I did have it super smooth after sanding so that could have been why, which is why I used a more coarse grit sandpaper to give the surface more texture this time around with the loctite.

The loctite bonds and basically becomes one with the material it's on. The jb weld doesn't seem to "bond" but it's more of a glue that sits ontop from my experience. I use the loctite epoxy many times and I can tell you as far as strength, this stuff is much stronger than jb weld. Jb weld may be more heat resistant (the kwik version is less heat resistant in short term exposure however) which is what's needed in this case but the strength and bonding just isn't there for me. Jb weld kwik has a tensile strength rated at 2424 psi while the loctite hd has a rating of 3597 psi after 24 hours of curing time.

And just to note, jb weld doesn't specifically say it's used for glass and plastic while loctite does.

I will let you guys know how the loctite holds up.

-Mark

Yo yo!

I understand that it may hold better and that you think it may not reach the higher temps mentioned on it's datasheet, but I would generally have to advise that this Loctite epoxy is NOT used by FC'ers to create Muzzmods. Even if it is kept out of the air path.

I think that this line from the datasheet makes it crystal clear . . .

Not recommended for:
Applications requiring short-term heat exposure of greater than 302°F (150°C)

I think most of us use temperatures far higher than this?

If you choose vaporization as a healthier way to ingest your natural medicine, why would you take the risk, however minimal, of inhaling the off-gassing from a chemical based adhesive?

Especially when there are tried and tested safer alternatives available.

It is obviously up to you what you do but I would not advise that others follow in your footsteps.

Tried & tested JB Weld is the safer way to go for anyone looking to create their own mod.



Message Ends.

 

[Marky]

Yo yo!

I understand that it may hold better and that you think it may not reach the higher temps mentioned on it's datasheet, but I would generally have to advise that this Loctite epoxy is NOT used by FC'ers to create Muzzmods. Even if it is kept out of the air path.

I think that this line from the datasheet makes it crystal clear . . .

Not recommended for:
Applications requiring short-term heat exposure of greater than 302°F (150°C)

I think most of us use temperatures far higher than this?

If you choose vaporization as a healthier way to ingest your natural medicine, why would you take the risk, however minimal, of inhaling the off-gassing from a chemical based adhesive?

Especially when there are tried and tested safer alternatives available.

It is obviously up to you what you do but I would not advise that others follow in your footsteps.

Tried & tested JB Weld is the safer way to go for anyone looking to create their own mod.



Message Ends.

Thank you for your concern. However, I feel differently and I will update everyone on the results.

You don't like the loctite? Don't feel comfortable using it? No problem, do as you please bro. If the loctite works with no issues, I don't see what's wrong with it? Your assuming and not stating your actual experience or actual facts with it so until someone else does so and lists it here, how can you trash the use of the product? The actual temp you set your vape to and the actual temp on the outside adapter are 2 different numbers.

As I stated, I will use my heat gun to measure the real temp of the adapter where the epoxy is and I will update everyone.

As for fumes, it's not in the airpath so exactly what fumes are you talking about? Unless the outside of the adapter gets so hot that it starts vaporizing the epoxy then thats different but there's no proof yet on that.

Obviously the jb weld is not tried and proven since it failed on my mod. It failed after it got hot.

Edit: I just want to add something. The jb "kwik" is actually less heat resistant than the loctite epoxy I used by 2°. So you if you trash the loctite epoxy for not being heat resistant enough, then your trashing jb kwik as well. If you want to use jb weld, then I'd stick to the original one instead of the kwik version. It's stronger and more heat resistant. My mod could have failed because temps reached above 300° which is higher than the jb kwik is rated for as well as the loctite. If the loctite fails as well, I will try the original jb weld or even the jb high heat putty. I like experimenting and seeing what works and what doesn't. I found a loctite high heat epoxy for $24. I may even try that one. But it looks like the jb kwik weld is not reliable as I have stated.

-Mark

 

[elmomuzz]

I'd like to point out I've been using my muzzmod since last year. It's been used hundreds if not thousands of times. Ive also made 4 for 4 different friends and they've been using them as well. One has come apart like mentioned above. I assumed I didn't mix the jb weld in the proper proportion so I remade it for him. No problems since. You also have to make sure you clean both glass and plastic really well. Iso leaves a residue behind and the jb weld won't stick. Use soap and water and rinse and dry it well.

 

[Marky]

I'd like to point out I've been using my muzzmod since last year. It's been used hundreds if not thousands of times. Ive also made 4 for 4 different friends and they've been using them as well. One has come apart like mentioned above. I assumed I didn't mix the jb weld in the proper proportion so I remade it for him. No problems since. You also have to make sure you clean both glass and plastic really well. Iso leaves a residue behind and the jb weld won't stick. Use soap and water and rinse and dry it well.

I did as instructed on the epoxy and the mixture. After doing more research, I came to the conclusion that JB Kwik is not ideal for this mod although some of you may have no issues with it. I vape at 400°f so that's probably why my mod came apart. Trust me when I tell you, I did everything correctly. Im very handy and it runs in my family (long story lol).

I took snapshots of facts I read on Wikipedia. According to this info, the original jb weld is what we want to use and not jb kwik. I will see how the loctite works but if it fails I will use the original jb weld and I'm sure I won't have any issues since it's rated for 500°f (max 600°f).

-Mark

 

[elmomuzz]

JB Weld works great. But do as you wish. But please don't negate my experience when yours is somewhat limited.

To me it feels like you are somehow trying to "make it better:. Which is fine but there is nothing wrong with how I have instructed folks to make them. You just didn't quite get it right.



Just for fun a thermal image of the device after a few strong pulls through the cooling unit.

Does anyone have a dead/dying Mighty they could lend me?? I am seriously thinking about taking a crack at a second Mighty SonG designed to replace the cooling unit completely......

Anyone interested in helping me develop (and beta test) a new SonG? PM me PLEASE

- Edit -
Looks like I've got a Mighty heading my way! Time to get started on some new designs. I hear ya'll want some sort of stand to hold the Mighty upright, if there's any other 3D printed accessories I can help with, please let me know. I'd like to bust out as many accessories as possible before returning the vape

Did I ever say how much I fucking love this community - FC Rocks!

I would tread carefully here. Storz and Bickel have in the past taken legal action against companies producing accessories for their products. Search for vriptech valloon storz bickel to learn more.