The Magic-Flight Box
- Thread starter magicflight
- Start date
TommyDee
Vaporitor
I'm pretty sure that is a seam. Could be wrong. A tear is warranty'd.
My original... there is a hole in that screen. But the seams are clear.
No, my Walnut Launch Box doesn't look like that.
Zoned89
Active Member
Yo this looks doable! And I have access to a friends 3D printer, and I can dabble a bit in tinkercad, I like it! I’m gunna run with when it gets here, hopefully their shipping isn’t too backed up with all that’s going on. Thanks for the link!You got the skills and the means to duplicate my Ni-Mh puck. Seriously, it is written to follow instructions. There I can help.
Jump in about here... The Magic-Flight Box
A few posts below that is the 3800mah Ni-Mh mod. You can do that with ease with your drone skills.
Also below that is my take and testing of the MF cells and dealing with internal resistance. That taught me some things about cell powered devices.
The Launch Box is a 0.07 or so ohm device. it is optimum if you get 1.25V to the rails. 2V okay - 3.6V NADA! Would be nice though.
Warning; math: 2V into 0.07 ohms = 2/0.07 = 28.57 amps 3.6/0.07 = 51.4 amps. Ni-Mh -1.2V; 1.2/0.07 = 17.14 amps [v/ir]
Now mind you that the Launch Box is quite rugged by design. The PA goes up to something like 1.8V. Basically you have a 12v wall wart at 2 amps so that's the limit.
I use the LB in temperature mode and limit wattage to 18 watts. More than enough to simmer a LB to good health.
And add the fact that Ni-Mh is so much fucking safer than Li-anychem and their inherent build for power devices makes them an obvious choice for me. Palming the cell out in the yard makes the box just as stealth as before.
The take-away I got from the efforts - if you make something, make the contacts copper. Anything else will get hot. That's bad.
For posterity's sake; and instructions
I did notice in that link someone mentioned using a premade power pack and the adapter. Have you considered using a modified version of the 2, could even use a light rheostat wired in for some sort of temp control. Wouldn’t be aa small as the single cell, but could potentially print a case to fit everything in a single unit? Once those power packs are broken down you can get them into some tight spaces. Or just have several of those singles parallel wired up, sale deal with a rheostst squished in to the unit. Idk I’ve not been thinking about this for as long as you guys
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I look forward tinkering with you here on the NFC 
junny89
Well-Known Member
So watching this thread so many people back on here ! Exciting to see as I think other than the dynavap the MFLB is fantastic! Love it!
however I have realised something :
when I want to use it, either the batteries are dead or need charging. Charging then just takes ages as well. It’s like hours. To use the MFLB I have to prepare in advance and sometimes I don’t get to do that.
yes I have the plug adaptor but sometimes you don’t have the time or access to use the plug.
I love the taste and ease of the MFLB. I just wish I could get the power delivery sorted. The ease of batteries is great but the charging time!
@Stark1 is that green one actually yours? If so how did you get it customised? As far as I’m aware mf did not produce any like this.
any one here got the dry herb monocle edition ? That’s the one I went with.
question-
If I charge the batteries today, how long would they stay fully charged? Or charged at all? Thinking of I charge a few in advance and if they stay charged for some time, it could help me use it a lot more as it would already be charged.
however I have realised something :
when I want to use it, either the batteries are dead or need charging. Charging then just takes ages as well. It’s like hours. To use the MFLB I have to prepare in advance and sometimes I don’t get to do that.
yes I have the plug adaptor but sometimes you don’t have the time or access to use the plug.
I love the taste and ease of the MFLB. I just wish I could get the power delivery sorted. The ease of batteries is great but the charging time!
@Stark1 is that green one actually yours? If so how did you get it customised? As far as I’m aware mf did not produce any like this.
any one here got the dry herb monocle edition ? That’s the one I went with.
question-
If I charge the batteries today, how long would they stay fully charged? Or charged at all? Thinking of I charge a few in advance and if they stay charged for some time, it could help me use it a lot more as it would already be charged.
stark1
Lonesome Planet
OK, at any rate as long as there is continuity of the screen between the +/- rails, there should be heat generated; fine Grind loss, and less aesthetics, it should still be functional. (Don’t press your thumb nail in there hard to seat the herb, and you won’t have tearing issues. Or cut your thumb nail short.).
. .
@Junny89, no wish it were, as for batteries, they have a limit to their charge cycles, and eventually degrade. Best to get
Fresh batteries, and keep them topped up.
My collection from deep time
Fakes were clowned, but the clones put the retaining bearing on the left.
The word “WHICH” is also spelled “ WHCH” (guy should have looked for his near sighted glasses when
Fabricating the MF credo).
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FLelder ent
Well-Known Member
My first vape also......used it for years, gave it to a friend.....haven't combusted since.... 
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junny89
Well-Known Member
What works for me is, grab a q tip, dip it in some iso. While dry burning and screen is hgently wipe the q tip up and down and around. Keep altering in between and dry burn. Please please be careful as you can tear the screen if extra force is applied.
Once done the next few uses will taste a bit like iso but it will disappear.
I actually still do find it tedious using the MFLB and I do find these two issues to be annoying. But it’s like ahh who cares I still love the lil thing.
1. Power issue (batteries etc)
2. Using 2 grinders! You also may share this like me, when you need your fix it’s almost double the time! Grind a bud in a normal grinder and then use the finishing grinder.
Have to say love the finishing grinder and surprised there isn’t many more like this. I know a few shredder grinders have come out but thought would have been a lot more.
What does everyone else do?
I have used a bigger consistency (by not using the finishing grinder) and the results are poor!
stark1
Lonesome Planet
You got the skills and the means to duplicate my Ni-Mh puck. Seriously, it is written to follow instructions. There I can help.
Jump in about here... The Magic-Flight Box
A few posts below that is the 3800mah Ni-Mh mod. You can do that with ease with your drone skills.
Also below that is my take and testing of the MF cells and dealing with internal resistance. That taught me some things about cell powered devices.
The Launch Box is a 0.07 or so ohm device. it is optimum if you get 1.25V to the rails. 2V okay - 3.6V NADA! Would be nice though.
Warning; math: 2V into 0.07 ohms = 2/0.07 = 28.57 amps 3.6/0.07 = 51.4 amps. Ni-Mh -1.2V; 1.2/0.07 = 17.14 amps [v/ir]
Now mind you that the Launch Box is quite rugged by design. The PA goes up to something like 1.8V. Basically you have a 12v wall wart at 2 amps so that's the limit.
I use the LB in temperature mode and limit wattage to 18 watts. More than enough to simmer a LB to good health.
And add the fact that Ni-Mh is so much fucking safer than Li-anychem and their inherent build for power devices makes them an obvious choice for me. Palming the cell out in the yard makes the box just as stealth as before.
The take-away I got from the efforts - if you make something, make the contacts copper. Anything else will get hot. That's bad.
For posterity's sake; and instructions
Now I am wondering how you re-charge that Sub C, ‘Ton
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Something like this... @Stark1
@Junny89 - watchword for high energy Ni-Cad cells; self discharge. Ni-CAD is notorious for not holding their charge. You want fresh daily charges.
And for those on a hunt for the golden Glyphs, don't bother. I got a pair that were viable but their capacity was half the rated capacity although brand new. I broke down and used a cell analysis tool to figure out what these cells really had as far as capacity. The Glyphs are simply too old and the tech that improved self-discharge issues killed the whole high power 14500 [AA-size] Ni-Cad availability. This is the dilemma MF is currently in. They just don't have an out short of firing up a new battery factory, which ain't gonna happened.
@Junny89 - watchword for high energy Ni-Cad cells; self discharge. Ni-CAD is notorious for not holding their charge. You want fresh daily charges.
And for those on a hunt for the golden Glyphs, don't bother. I got a pair that were viable but their capacity was half the rated capacity although brand new. I broke down and used a cell analysis tool to figure out what these cells really had as far as capacity. The Glyphs are simply too old and the tech that improved self-discharge issues killed the whole high power 14500 [AA-size] Ni-Cad availability. This is the dilemma MF is currently in. They just don't have an out short of firing up a new battery factory, which ain't gonna happened.
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Zoned89
Active Member
I feel like they should just take notes from the previous forum thread on the subject, and make some sort of adapter that allowed me to plug any 510 to the device. The main issue for them is the whole earth conscious issue, which I get, but then they peddle these batteries which seem to be crap (don’t have my box yet so I’ve not used them)
I am fairly interested in something like this though, as this might be the lazy mans middle ground for mflb if it actually works
AAOTOKK Type C Power Adapter Type C USB Male to DC 5.5x2.1mm Female Connector Charge Barrel Jack Power Adapter Type C USB 5V Connector for Type C USB Charging Device (2Pack-Type c) Amazon.com: AAOTOKK Type C Power Adapter Type C USB Male to DC 5.5x2.1mm Female Connector Charge Barrel Jack Power Adapter Type C USB 5V Connector for Type C USB Charging Device (2Pack-Type c): Computers & Accessories
that and a solid power pack might be all we need, with obvious room for improvement. Diy a super short cable from pa mflb unit to the power pack. Wouldn’t exactly be small, but could potentially have on demand vape on the fly.
me and a buddy made a parallel 18650 power pack for fpv goggles, essentially the same thing, right? If it worked well everything could be broken down, condensed, and the whole setup direct wired to the pa unit (mflb side) or the unit that you used with the battery could be wired right into it as well. Rheostats are small and cheap enough as well.
Am I missing something here that would make that Not work?
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Yes, 3S 18650 will power the PA. I did this for a while. The Sub-C works. Just work out how you want to manage the wire safely. I used 22 gauge sold wire. The braid can be replaced with 4 strands of the 22 gauge solid wire.
And again, my whole reason for putting options out there is to get MF's attention. Its all I can do. This thread alone is ample evidence that the nostalgic aspects of this vape still evokes fond memories.
And again, my whole reason for putting options out there is to get MF's attention. Its all I can do. This thread alone is ample evidence that the nostalgic aspects of this vape still evokes fond memories.
Zoned89
Active Member
My knowledge with lipo is the following
Balance charge them slowly, don’t over discharge (this will damage them) and treat them properly/discard when damaged.
The biggest issue I see with lipo is making sure you don’t go below a certain voltage or they won’t charge the same again and could become volatile
junny89
Well-Known Member
Wouldn’t you need to chop that end off the PA then and solder the end to the adaptor (link you provided to amazon with the type C connector end) ?
this extremely exciting, would a ready made power bank not work?
@Vapeyvaporson I hate that about lipo’s. They ain’t cheap either!
@TommyDee totally agree with you. Shame they don’t just 3D print a small connector for ecig vapes or something else. I have the gold glyph batteries but the revised version that came out in 2017 I think. The MFLB is still fantastic and I’ll be honest very little other vapes come close in terms of flavour and highness. Besides they do look super cool.
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Zoned89
Active Member
So my thinking here is gut a rheostat ***never mind the pa has one already
* ((like 4 bucks) and chop all the wires and minimize the distance between all connections. Essentially yeah, chop the pa up, attach that micro usb (or whatever) to the adapter and into the power pack, would make it easy to break down, keep the battery
Functionality, zero physical mod to the mflb itself, and the. Print a case to hold it together.
That said, you gotta make sure the output is correct, which is where my knowledge drops off a bit lol.
but I’ve done similar things with other electronics.
Lipos are for sure expensive, dropping 15-30 bucks for a 4s for my fpv drones only for it to be trashed after a month of aggressive flying lol.
As far as printing the adapters for 510, i would be concerned about melting. Ideally pla would
Be used, but it does melt fairly easily.
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junny89
Well-Known Member
@Junny89 - I used a standard 5.5x2.1 plug straight into the PA1.0. It just gets unruly with all the wires. Works perfectly though.
[/QUOTE]
You got a pic of it by any chance ?
That’s exactly where my knowledge also drops off as I don’t know much about the battery so I don’t want to mess my MFLB up.
yes, after I wrote it I realised pla would melt. However many more materials out now. I’m having a look now
[/QUOTE]
You got a pic of it by any chance ?
That’s exactly where my knowledge also drops off as I don’t know much about the battery so I don’t want to mess my MFLB up.
yes, after I wrote it I realised pla would melt. However many more materials out now. I’m having a look now
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Oh now I got you @Vapeyvaporson . You want to consolidate the bits. Hell yea. Of course. Add a BMS and you charge directly with a 12.6V source.
The hack will give you about 1.6-1.7V to the rails. That's well over and above what proper cells will do.
Remember you're pulling nearly 15 amps through that cable at full bore. Keep the power cables hardwired or use connectors rated for 15-20 amps.
Looking forward to it. Remember the Veger episode of Star Trek? I'm imagining something like that closing scene is what your mind is doing now...
I've been real anxious to see what that circuit looks like. Since mine is the V1 oil-tanker model, it doesn't come apart. They pinned the endcaps in place.
@Junny89 - This was my test setup -
Come to think of it, you could just wire the cable to a 510 adapter
The hack will give you about 1.6-1.7V to the rails. That's well over and above what proper cells will do.
Remember you're pulling nearly 15 amps through that cable at full bore. Keep the power cables hardwired or use connectors rated for 15-20 amps.
Looking forward to it. Remember the Veger episode of Star Trek? I'm imagining something like that closing scene is what your mind is doing now...
I've been real anxious to see what that circuit looks like. Since mine is the V1 oil-tanker model, it doesn't come apart. They pinned the endcaps in place.
@Junny89 - This was my test setup -
Come to think of it, you could just wire the cable to a 510 adapter
Oh wait. I've done that.
Turns out too many things
to manage at the same time.
Big problem is maintaining
contact retention on the plus-rail.
That is an operator-required action.
And then you need to operate the MOD.
...and draw.
I didn't enjoy it on a short cord.
@Junny89 - Use of PLA where? The only heat I experienced in this entire circuit is from a nickel-plated fuse. That against stainless steel caused excessive heat and would not work. That was my brown adapter. Great idea, wrong plating. With pure copper contact to the rails, no heat. Perceptible heat that is, but touch safe none the less. That is the huge take-away from my entire venture into any adapter since day one. It was this knowledge that let me print the pucks. The yellow is ABS and the white and brown are PLA. Even the pair of 22 gauge wires don't get hot due to the low duty cycle. Now what does get hot is the head of the PA. Good that it is all metal within the LB. The PA head plating is probably the same reason for it getting hot too.Turns out too many things
to manage at the same time.
Big problem is maintaining
contact retention on the plus-rail.
That is an operator-required action.
And then you need to operate the MOD.
...and draw.
I didn't enjoy it on a short cord.
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I was thinking of 3D printing the adaptors instead of milling them. The original plan was to use ultem 9085 which won't start deforming until 300f stuff is good people use it a lot in ecigs cause it withstands high heat and low toxicity.
I can already print it too, just really need to figure out how I want to do the connections.
junny89
Well-Known Member
Oh now I got you @Vapeyvaporson . You want to consolidate the bits. Hell yea. Of course. Add a BMS and you charge directly with a 12.6V source.
The hack will give you about 1.6-1.7V to the rails. That's well over and above what proper cells will do.
Remember you're pulling nearly 15 amps through that cable at full bore. Keep the power cables hardwired or use connectors rated for 15-20 amps.
Looking forward to it. Remember the Veger episode of Star Trek? I'm imaging something like that closing scene is what your mind is doing now...
I've been real anxious to see what that circuit looks like. Since mine is the V1 oil-tanker model, it doesn't come apart. They pinned the endcaps in place.
@Junny89 - This was my test setup -
View attachment 618
Come to think of it, you could just wire the cable to a 510 adapter
Oh wait. I've done that.@Junny89 - Use of PLA where? The only heat I experienced in this entire circuit is from a nickel-plated fuse. That against stainless steel caused excessive heat and would not work. That was my brown adapter. Great idea, wrong plating. With pure copper contact to the rails, no heat. Perceptible heat that is, but touch safe none the less. That is the huge take-away from my entire venture into any adapter since day one. It was this knowledge that let me print the pucks. The yellow is ABS and the white and brown are PLA. Even the pair of 22 gauge wires don't get hot due to the low duty cycle. Now what does get hot is the head of the PA. Good that it is all metal within the LB. The PA head plating is probably the same reason for it getting hot too.
Turns out too many things
to manage at the same time.
Big problem is maintaining
contact retention on the plus-rail.
That is an operator-required action.
And then you need to operate the MOD.
...and draw.
I didn't enjoy it on a short cord.
Was thinking to 3D print the whole connector leading to some cabling or attaching a 510 so I can screw on my mod. I just spoke to some one who said pla will be fine or to use Petg. Was just discussing options with a friend who has a 3D printer. He’s making my dynavap tube for me so thought see his opinions. @ScyOne is making a 3D one. Or ultem as below
Yes ultem is fantastic, I have it in most my mods as it’s great with heat compared to the rest.
However it’s not cheap to buy.
That would be great to use, are you thinking to connect to a mod/510 or to something else?
Yes a 510 adaptor. Could probably use common components for the connections. Legit ultem from reputable sources would cost about $3 for each adaptor. Could probably release 3D files if you wanted to make your own or you can buy some from me.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
This worked but it just wasn't convenient so I abandoned it until @ScyOne had the solution for handling. It was a pure fluke to learn the adapter would also maintain pressure on the positive contact.
However, choosing a material for printing needs to be done with empirical data on the junction temperature. And I say this with all due respect as you can vape in plastics if you fuck up with a Launch Box. Remember the air path crosses over this with sufficiency to care. And vaping Ultem is a very bad idea! PLA is at least organic.
Also consider the difference in putting a puck on a 1.2V cell v. a device that can push 50 watts. Again, more heat. If you make a high power driver for the Launch Box, I implore anyone reading this to ONLY PUT METAL INTO THE BATTERY SOCKET! I've tested my junction temperatures on both adapter versions. My contacts are copper. These power levels are nothing to sneeze at and I have to say these things for your safety. Remember that I had a fuse overheat and burn me with just a 1.2V cell!
However, choosing a material for printing needs to be done with empirical data on the junction temperature. And I say this with all due respect as you can vape in plastics if you fuck up with a Launch Box. Remember the air path crosses over this with sufficiency to care. And vaping Ultem is a very bad idea! PLA is at least organic.
Also consider the difference in putting a puck on a 1.2V cell v. a device that can push 50 watts. Again, more heat. If you make a high power driver for the Launch Box, I implore anyone reading this to ONLY PUT METAL INTO THE BATTERY SOCKET! I've tested my junction temperatures on both adapter versions. My contacts are copper. These power levels are nothing to sneeze at and I have to say these things for your safety. Remember that I had a fuse overheat and burn me with just a 1.2V cell!
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Ultem 9085 is FAR 25.853 and OSU 65/65 certified for flame and smoke toxicity. Pla is not rated for anything.