Un Prophete
Active Member
No, but could do so within a few days, unfortunately my Torx T6 (or whatever it was) was since sacrificed to my Macbook pro while I was doing some work on that machine, so I need to go out and buy a new one.
Also just remembered there was some discussion on the magnets in the device a while back. They are (just tested) powerful enough to put an Apple laptop to sleep if you put the lid in the right place. That's how the computer senses the screen is closed. If you have a solid state computer, don't worry about it besides keeping the lid away from that point. If your computer has a spinning disk, don't put the lid near the hard drive while it's running (probably fine while off, but backup your data before testing any of this).
Should be fine next to a credit card in a wallet, but don't put the card under the lid and close the device. I'm also not going to test this one.
The glow is a bit counter-intuitive. That it dims at all when air passes over it (easier to see if you inhale briskly with no material in the bowl) means the aerodynamic design is very effective at removing heat from the coil, thus into the air and through your herb. That said, a huge amount of the energy is lost(ish) to the device. The lost energy is not actually lost, the coil doesn't have to work nearly as hard when the device gets hotter.
I think most of the heat in the air is lost after it passes through your material and collides with the lid, which is somewhat thermally isolated from the bowl (good thing glass to metal is such a terrible way to transfer heat, not that the bowl gets very hot near the top anyway), and has quite a bit of thermal mass itself. I believe this is why you see the window and lid getting dirty, a few of the heavier molecules condense out of the air as it cools rapidly on contact with the lid.
In short: as the device heats, the glow will dim and move from the yellowish to the orangeish (these are highly technical terms) part of the visible spectrum, all this indicates is that it has sensed the coil is the proper temperature to heat the air to about 400 degrees. I believe at this point it is mostly variation in draw speed that will cook material different amounts, and obviously the bottom of the bowl cooks a bit faster as the air cools on its way up. I've found it to be quite effective with a moderate but consistent draw (10-20 seconds) and occasional stir, but don't really want to get into dissecting method. It's all rather intuitive for me.
You are as passionate about this stuff as I am about film. I dig it, good work. Are there like special forums dedicated to this sort of thing?