The Extreme-Q Vaporizer

[pakalolo]

I start at 160°C and step up in 10s to 190°C, and rarely go past that.

A few points on combusting: first, not all EQs are the same. Second, the digital display is the heater temperature not the herb temp, and although Arizer has made changes over the years to get a more accurate temperature display, the actual temperature can still vary. Third, the combustion temperature will vary depending on your material. A really dry, finely ground material will go up at a lot lower temperature than a coarsely ground damp load.

If Seek says he reached combustion, I have no doubt that he did.

 

[DougWilson]

Will these 7th floor tubes work with the Extreme Q?

http://silversurfervap.com/accessories/surfer-accessories/replacement-hose-3ft.html

It doesn't say what material it is, it just says it's "better than silicone." But I want material that has a higher temperature rating that's safe to vape with.

 

[pakalolo]

Will these 7th floor tubes work with the Extreme Q?

http://silversurfervap.com/accessories/surfer-accessories/replacement-hose-3ft.html

It doesn't say what material it is, it just says it's "better than silicone." But I want material that has a higher temperature rating that's safe to vape with.

If they don't say what it is then I wouldn't trust it no matter what the source.

 

[Tweak]

Will these 7th floor tubes work with the Extreme Q?

Yes it will. All it has to fit over is the elbow joint.

I still prefer silicone as its more flexible, but the SSV tube is very high quality and much better than the stock EQ tube. And as they advertise, it will not pick up half the dirt that silicone does.

 

[DougWilson]

Yes it will. All it has to fit over is the elbow joint.

I still prefer silicone as its more flexible, but the SSV tube is very high quality and much better than the stock EQ tube. And as they advertise, it will not pick up half the dirt that silicone does.

I'm mainly worried about the temperature rating though.

 

[vape4life]

Out of using the E, and EQ since they were released years ago, I only combusted just once, and that was with the newest 2012 version, while packing a shit tonne of herb in the cyclone, crank temp right up to like 240, and setting fan speed on 3 and leaving it....poof! Bag full of smoke...ruined.

 

[peterchen]

ok, so i opened my EQ and the piece of plastic touching the heater is melted.

the whole point of that plastic seems to be to just hold up the heater...a problem that could obviously be solved differently. It's beyond my understanding how a company makes the decision to use plastic that will melt at temperatures obviously reached by the heater. I literally feel sick now and will have to inform myself about legal steps, because Arizer apparently takes the risk of customers inhaling plastic.

So, I emailed Arizer and asked about this. Kevin from Arizer replied:
"After speaking with our engineers I am told that the appearance of this piece is normal -- it is a bracing part for the ceramic heater made out of a blend of ceramic and mica, it's non-toxic and safe unless exposed to open flame. Being that this part comes into direct contact to the ceramic core to brace it, after use it will appear like this because it can soften very slightly when the unit is heating, but rest-assured it is completely safe to use; it does not pose any health or safety concerns. "

So, according to the engineers the melting is normal, i.e., expected! And the piece is supposed to be mica+ceramic. Note that others have posted that they've been told it's just mica by Arizer. Anyways, from the information I can gather a mica ceramic blend should not melt at the temperatures reached by the heater.
I replied and asked for the exact material of the piece and got no answer (10 days ago)
I asked to them respond to this thread and they didnt. Not officially that is...

My conclusion: fuck them and I'll never touch my EQ again (got a LSV instead)

 

[Fully Melted]

I received an email reply from Arizer:
"The piece you are asking about is not plastic, it is Mica, and poses no risk to you." Not true.

Neither mica or ceramic should melt at all...PERIOD. If you look at the part closely, it's mica+plastic resin binder. AKA "Heat resistant plastic". I use the same material in some lighting products I manufacture. Just to be sure I had our materials engineer look at the heater support. He showed me that it is indeed a mica / plastic resin composite part.

The only part that is "melt-able" is the plastic resin binder. I just got my EQ a few days ago (!!! grrr) but it's being relegated to the closet shelf. I'm not getting the truth about the composition from Arizer. I'm pissed. Now I do not trust their products.

 

[charliedontsurf]

Well this is shitty.

I'm glad you are guys are on top of the issue though. We had to deal with flaking ceramic and possible other issues with the Solo, so I guess isn't a huge surprise. They never told us exactly what that ceramic was made of and that may be intentional. Again they seem to be dodging the guerrilla in the room.

 

[jwoody]

Does anyone know of a good way to get the Arizer Extreme Q elbow screens really clean for reuse? I can't quit seem to get them completely clean even soaking in alcohol.

 

[Tweak]

Try a toothbrush or any brush that will fit.

Also to keep them a bit cleaner, once you empty the cyclone bowl, crank the heat to 260, and turn the fan on 1. Then blow the screen out while still hot. I've found if you let them cool the resin sets and keeps all the fine plant material stuck with it.

 

[Imhi]

Earlier on I posted my 'straight up' method. I replaced the elbow adapter by a glass mouthpiece, creating a straight airflow from the bowl into the whip. (http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-extreme-q-vaporizer.1457/page-170#post-249707)
After a few weeks of intensive use I can report that so far this set-up works very well.

The glass mouthpiece does not seem to get as hot as the elbow does. I think the better airflow makes the air cool faster. I have upped my temp a bit. The best results I used to get vaping from 220 to 250, I now go 230 to 260. As has been said earlier on this forum, temperature readout may not be the same on all units. For me this works fine.

At 260 the risk of combustion is higher, as I found out a couple of times. Though I must admit I once combusted at 220.

Steve from Arizer pointed out to me that one of the reasons for the elbow adapter is "To catch fine particles and debris as it travels from the bowl to the balloon or through the whip".
I have found that, using the "straight up"-method, lots of stuff is still caught in the narrow mouthpiece and the
first few inches of the tube, making regular cleaning neccessary. This of course is an easier job than cleaning the elbow.

A small problem might be that, doing away with the elbow, the first part of the tube, once it's warmed up, tends to bend under it's own weight, thus again creating blocked airflow. I found two ways to deal with this, as shown in pics.

Have fun everyone.

 

[newVaper420]

Just want to keep you guys posted. I've found it definitely depends on strain (as everyone says). One of my strains I range from 190 - 215 around, and that's awesome. This one I'm using now gotta go to 230 to get maximumness out of it for me. Crazy.

I'm still loving my EQ. Any idea's on how to separate the glass from the tubing, and how to clean the tubing? I saw some notes on this in the thread, such as making it hot. Just want to know what other people do. Don't want to break any glass.

 

[AdmiralAlpacha]

I usually have a sesh before I plan to remove it, then when I am done I turn the heat up and turn the fan on(this gets the whip nice and warm) then I can usually get it off.

I don't know if this is the best or not though, I have always had the worry that the heat would make it weaker, but I know nothing about glass

 

[AndrewD14]

I have been hearing a lot of mixed reviews of the efficiency of this vaporizer. Does the EQ match the efficiency of the HA or any other quality desktop vapes? One thing I have been hearing is that you need to pack a lot more herb into the bowl (about .25g), but once going, it matches the efficiency of the HA. Meaning that they both could be considered the same efficiency, but the EQ requires more herb to reach its peak efficiency. Does anyone have anything to say about this and can they confirm or deny if this is correct? Thanks.

 

[AdmiralAlpacha]

As a log vape my UD is a bit more efficient, however I would not consider the EQ un-efficient, However I vape a pretty good amount so the small difference isn't as noticeable.

I think you will be pleased with the efficiency of any popular vaporizer on FC in summary.

 

[Seek]

AndrewD14: I think you got it right. EQ desn't have bowls for small loads by default. Cyclone bowl is not good for < 0.2g loads. Unless you mod it. You can grind the hole in it and replace the flat screen with domed screen. Then it can hold > 0.05g. For < 0.05g bowl you need to do this mod.
Also I've been using "screen mod" which enhances heat exchanging so that mod boosts efficiency too. Vid of screen mod.

I'm still loving my EQ. Any idea's on how to separate the glass from the tubing, and how to clean the tubing?

Run hot water over it. It should become softer and come off easily. Then clean with iso then water or just near-boiling water.

 

[newVaper420]

AndrewD14: I think you got it right. EQ desn't have bowls for small loads by default. Cyclone bowl is not good for < 0.2g loads. Unless you mod it. You can grind the hole in it and replace the flat screen with domed screen. Then it can hold > 0.05g. For < 0.05g bowl you need to do this mod.
Also I've been using "screen mod" which enhances heat exchanging so that mod boosts efficiency too. Vid of screen mod.


Run hot water over it. It should become softer and come off easily. Then clean with iso then water or just near-boiling water.

I thought ISO was bad for the tubing as it clouds it up, or something like that? So, we can do ISO for the tubing as well? That's good to know.

 

[Seek]

You can use iso on plastic, but rinse it with water immediately after. If you leave it, it will flake probably.

 

[pakalolo]

I thought ISO was bad for the tubing as it clouds it up, or something like that? So, we can do ISO for the tubing as well? That's good to know.

I wouldn't do that. Seek is right about rinsing immediately, but my experience trying that left such a bad taste of ISO in the whip I wound up throwing it out anyway.

Get yourself some silicone tubing and forget the PVC. Silicone is more flexible (I hated the PVC tubing because it had a life of its own), much easier to remove, and you can clean it with ISO without worries. PVC is not worth cleaning, in my opinion.

 

[Stu]

I have found that it's not worth it to clean the stock tubing. First of all it's quite difficult to remove from the glass pieces without much effort and/or using a razor blade.

IMO replacement tubing is the way to go. Not only does it go on and off easier, but it's pliable and fairly inexpensive. I get this stuff and it works very well.

 

[DougWilson]

My EQ should be coming in the mail any day now. When I run it initially to burn off the manufacturing oil, should I attached the bowl piece and the elbow?

 

[newVaper420]

My EQ should be coming in the mail any day now. When I run it initially to burn off the manufacturing oil, should I attached the bowl piece and the elbow?

According to the directions you don't need to. I don't think I did. I put it on the highest temp and let it run for 30 minutes. Then I went down to my desired temp, and waited 5 mins for the adjustment, and then used it. :-). Worked awesome.

 

[Kommyknocker]

It states in the EQ manual '1. First plug in the warming unit, turn "ON" via front panel or on the remote, set desired temperature and leave for 15 minutes or so to burn off any residues from packaging.

Also can I get a hell yeah as i've reached page 100 in this thread and will continue til i'm done.

 

[DougWilson]

So what the bottom line on that plastic piece mentioned above that is melting? Is the EQ safe to use? Im thinking about maybe switching to da budda if the EQ is gonna be melting plastic when I use it.