Bluntcrush
Director of Vapor Research Labs™
I had to order that Aqua Vape! It looks like such a great accessory!!! Space saving and everything! Thanks Paracaps again for the info!!!
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Stu said:. . . However if you get a cheapo bong that is already fitted with a GonG adapter (many if not most have this these days), you'll get a much better idea of true vapor bonging and it makes clearing your chamber much easier by simply removing the GonG piece as a carb.
Good luck in your endeavors!!
I wonder if this 2-week Q newbie might follow-up with a similar question to Bluntcrush's? I realize this is kinda asking a lot, but I'm afraid I need the help. I've read thru this entire (enormously helpful!) thread, as well as the "custom vape setup" and related threads (whew!). But I'm asking here because from what I've learned so far, vapes vary so greatly that the nature of my question suggests it better asked specific to using the Q.
While vaping is in itself a huge improvement for me over combustion, I also need improvement specifically in re-moisturing and cooling the vapor. My bronchial passages have always been quite temperamental; very dry air and/or high heat can result in a lot of extended irritation. Having to draw hard also irritates. But so does taking numerous small hits trying to compensate for all of the above. (And, yes, I've been thoroughly checked out - nothing organically wrong - just genetically over-sensitive.)
All of which led me to deciding I needed a glass water bong. (Entertainment value: My avatar is something I rigged until I buy glass.) But, jeez, I had no idea how varied and complex (and potentially expensive) this gets! So cutting to the chase, I would greatly appreciate comments or suggestions on the conclusions I've drawn so far (btw, I'm using the 3-ft whip, and for spousal reasons will need to continue doing so). I realize I've broken this down into granular detail; did so (hopefully) to make replies easier and for less back-n-forth. And, oh, did I mention, I'm semi-retired and not rollin'-in-the-dough? Here goes:
1. Water filtration is of value, although much less so using a Q where vapor is moving through two fine-mesh screens. So while further filtration is great, my primary interest is in the moisturizing and cooling.
Conclusion: Good diffusion is important as smaller bubbles do both, but the diffusion method should not add counter-productively to the draw (e.g., beads).
Confusion: Any real value in using an attached diffusing ash catcher or the more expensive in-the-tube (or bowl) inline diffuser?
2. Ice; cold water; enough water.
Conclusion: Bubblers disqualified. Seems to me that the fancy ash catcher diffusers or inline diffusers in a straight tube, don't actually move the vapor through enough water for real moisturizing & cooling. Would then follow that a beaker or bowl style bong holding more water would be better?
Conclusion: Also use a tube large enough to allow ice-pinches for at least several cubes. Also seems to me that a beaker or bowl style bong with a good diffuser would provide a combination of small air bubbles across enough cold water to do the best moisturizing/cooling job.
3. No additional draw than necessary.
Conclusion: The bong needs to be small-to-medium, probably no less than 10" and no more than 16"? And on the smaller side if beaker or bowl because all of this adds up to size of draw?
Conclusion: Attachments or additional side chambers, etc. amplify draw requirements. Since I want full but not monster hits, not really a good idea for me.
Confusion: Very much on this one. I understand the need for a 18 female to receive the Q elbow. But some bongs describe the downstem as "14/18", which suggests to me an 18 female joint but with a smaller through diameter to support a 14 bowl, nail, etc. Is this a different diameter than an 18/18, effectively making the 14/18 a reducer? Similarly, would a 18/14 adapter on an 14/18 downstem, while receiving the Q elbow, still leave me with reduced diameter? (A heckuva lot of the glass has only the 14/18 downstem.)
Confusion: Would I really gain anything by going from Arizer's stock 5/16" to e.g., SSV's sllightly larger 3/8"? (Comment: The Tygon 1/4" recommended several times in this thread must have superior elasticity and different properties in order to handle these fittings - but I would think this would affect airflow.)
Bottom line: I've tentatively concluded that the combination of best result/least demanding for me would be about a 12" beaker with ice-pinches closely above the flair with a good diffuser (showerstem?) deep into the bowl, with a GonG 18 female for straight connect to the Q's elbow with no additional attachments. Anything more unnecessarily fancy if not counter-productive?
I realize this is the really long way around the barn, so thanks much in advance for even reading thru this all let alone responding.
Dennis
PS. An extra thx to those of you who have posted so many times, enabling us to learn through your experiences. Means a lot.
hereatlast
Well-Known Member
1.
Confusion
If you're worried about adding resistance to your hit through complex diffusion, I'd say that an ash-catcher or second chamber isn't inline with what your after. If nothing else, an ashcatcher will add more volume for you to displace. In short, there's definitely added value in an ash-catcher...that said, it just doesn't sound like an ashcatcher would necessarily be your preference.
2.
Conclusion
This is a matter of personal preference really. I think you're employing an interesting logic here, that is, and correct me if I'm wrong: "the farther and more water the vapor travels through the better." I'm not sure I agree completely but understand what you're saying. FWIW, I have an inline bong, this design like you mentioned allows for a very small amount of water, I don't notice the vapor being any warmer but the hit is completely different.
A beaker, in my experience, offers a much chuggier hit if that makes any sense. Again, the difference between the beaker and a straight bong for example is totally personal preference.
Confusion 1
A 14/18 downstem offers the following: the downstem itself will fit into a 18mm fitting, i.e. the requisite bong fitting will be 18mm. So the downstem will go into an 18mm fitting and allow a 14mm adaptor coming in. In short (and sorry for the overly verbose answer, having trouble explaining this lol), a 14/18mm downstem will need a bong listed at 18mm and you'd need an alternate H20 adaptor at 14mm (instead of using the elbow as an 18mm adaptor).
Simply put, a 14/18mm and a 18/18mm downstem would fit into the same bong, they would require distinct inputs however, 14mm and 18mm respectively. FWIW, I wouldn't corner yourself into making sure you can use an 18mm input, i.e. the elbow you already own. A 14mm H20 adaptor is very easy to find online and really not too expensive. If you're only finding 14/18mm downstems that fit your bill, I'd go with that and just grab the 14mm H20 adaptor.
Confusion 2
I'm a proponent of the Tygon 3350 you mentioned and think its a big upgrade...I also have some tubing from 7th floor. Personally I prefer the Tygon but will say that the 7th floor tubing with the wider tubing did allow for a slightly increased air-flow. Again, the following is just my personal experience and preference: I don't necessarily think this added airflow (which was really not much at all) was a good improvement, I think the Extreme is already very easy to pull through.
If your using stock tubing, in my book, an upgrade is warranted. I think the great improvement is safety and functionality but not necessarily in the airflow department. For sure either of those tubings are nicer and easier to use. All just my
Confusion
If you're worried about adding resistance to your hit through complex diffusion, I'd say that an ash-catcher or second chamber isn't inline with what your after. If nothing else, an ashcatcher will add more volume for you to displace. In short, there's definitely added value in an ash-catcher...that said, it just doesn't sound like an ashcatcher would necessarily be your preference.
2.
Conclusion
This is a matter of personal preference really. I think you're employing an interesting logic here, that is, and correct me if I'm wrong: "the farther and more water the vapor travels through the better." I'm not sure I agree completely but understand what you're saying. FWIW, I have an inline bong, this design like you mentioned allows for a very small amount of water, I don't notice the vapor being any warmer but the hit is completely different.
A beaker, in my experience, offers a much chuggier hit if that makes any sense. Again, the difference between the beaker and a straight bong for example is totally personal preference.
Confusion 1
A 14/18 downstem offers the following: the downstem itself will fit into a 18mm fitting, i.e. the requisite bong fitting will be 18mm. So the downstem will go into an 18mm fitting and allow a 14mm adaptor coming in. In short (and sorry for the overly verbose answer, having trouble explaining this lol), a 14/18mm downstem will need a bong listed at 18mm and you'd need an alternate H20 adaptor at 14mm (instead of using the elbow as an 18mm adaptor).
Simply put, a 14/18mm and a 18/18mm downstem would fit into the same bong, they would require distinct inputs however, 14mm and 18mm respectively. FWIW, I wouldn't corner yourself into making sure you can use an 18mm input, i.e. the elbow you already own. A 14mm H20 adaptor is very easy to find online and really not too expensive. If you're only finding 14/18mm downstems that fit your bill, I'd go with that and just grab the 14mm H20 adaptor.
Confusion 2
I'm a proponent of the Tygon 3350 you mentioned and think its a big upgrade...I also have some tubing from 7th floor. Personally I prefer the Tygon but will say that the 7th floor tubing with the wider tubing did allow for a slightly increased air-flow. Again, the following is just my personal experience and preference: I don't necessarily think this added airflow (which was really not much at all) was a good improvement, I think the Extreme is already very easy to pull through.
If your using stock tubing, in my book, an upgrade is warranted. I think the great improvement is safety and functionality but not necessarily in the airflow department. For sure either of those tubings are nicer and easier to use. All just my
oldiebutgoodie said:
I think you're on the right track, Oldie. The original toob bong I bought had an 18mm opening, but required a downstem that narrowed the female end to 14. I asked the owner of my LHS if he had any other downstems that didn't reduce to 14. He poked around for a minute and found one that he swapped out for me. Bottome line, they're pretty easy to find. Even if you get a piece with a 14mm downstem, you can either get a 14/18 adapter, or find a 14mm male piece that connects to your tubing. Pretty simple to find either way.
Regarding the tubing, I just went to Lowes and picked up 10 feet of 5/16 ID nylon tubing for .27 cents a foot. I have since cut off a 2-foot piece that I (quite easily) attached my 2 elbow pieces to. I now have an extra 8 feet to play with as I choose, and I was out less than 3 bucks. I know some people like to have surgical grade silicone bla bla, but I'm not overly picky and figured that nylon was pretty harmless as these low temps.
FWIW, I'm in the same boat as you regarding sensitivity in my respiratory system (I've got chronic bronchitis) and the water diffusion has made a big difference for me, so I highly recommend giving it a shot.
Good luck!
etrone said:
Is this what the Extreme-Q looks like after a few uses. The whip looks pretty dirty. What is that resin or oils like it was said to me in another thread? That brown looks like bong resin. Whatever it is, my lungs are gona look the same so how healthy is this again?
Also that seems to be a full gram of weed in the cyclone bowl, what is the minimin that could be used?
All that said - my Extreme-Q will be arreiving in the next day or 2 "HAPPY FACE"
Purpl3_Haz3
On a Permanent Vakation
warren79 said:etrone said:
Is this what the Extreme-Q looks like after a few uses. The whip looks pretty dirty. What is that resin or oils like it was said to me in another thread? That brown looks like bong resin. Whatever it is, my lungs are gona look the same so how healthy is this again?
Also that seems to be a full gram of weed in the cyclone bowl, what is the minimin that could be used?
All that said - my Extreme-Q will be arreiving in the next day or 2 "HAPPY FACE"
I am what I would consider a chronic user...and after using mine for a solid month, I cleaned the glass and tubing....but I must say it was NO where near a built up as in the pic posted.....I'll post pics soon i guess of after a week or twos use...
As far as the minimus amount usable, i don't recall reading anything specific, but I often grind up .1 or less and 'pack the elbow' which is packing the screen that is shaped like a top hat and sits in the female piece of the elbow...alternatively, you can place that same amount in the cyclone bowl, and hit it allowing it to 'dance' aroundnin the bowl....
Moe info on the above can be found in this thread, and the vaporedia page linked at the top of the fuck combustion website...
Cngrats on the purchase, and enjoy it!
Peace
hereatlast
Well-Known Member
I'd say taste and color would be the best indicators for a bag-change.
Oven bags (the kind you cook a chicken, turkey, etc. in) are consistently recommended for replacement since they offer the same functionality at a much lower price than those dedicated 'vapor bags.' I will say that changing the bags is a huge pain with this unit, a quick search will reveal good instructions on this site (or use the manual's reccs).
Oven bags (the kind you cook a chicken, turkey, etc. in) are consistently recommended for replacement since they offer the same functionality at a much lower price than those dedicated 'vapor bags.' I will say that changing the bags is a huge pain with this unit, a quick search will reveal good instructions on this site (or use the manual's reccs).
Purpl3_Haz3
On a Permanent Vakation
hereatlast said:
Speaking of the huge pain involved with changing the bags (quickly discovered when i realized the second bag included with the q was not attached to the mouthpiece yet), I have been wanting to buy a volcano mouthpiece/piece that the bag attaches to...iirc from my last cano sesh (at least a year ago) the part the bag attaches to is at least 1" diameter, being much easier to evenly place the bag around...and I don't think it would take much macguiver-ing to get the short whip on the q to attach to the cano's bag setup (which can also be used with oven bags obviously).
Maybe someone who owns both a cano and a EQ could tinker with the idea or someone with one of the two aforementioned vapes that knows someone else with the other one could mess around with it...
FLskwat
VAPOLITICS!
PH...I've earn both (I only ketp my 'Cano Digit, but that's not the subject).
Yes somewhere on the forum (probably on this thread) there is a picture of a MOD EQV that makes the 'Cano EASY VALVE (never seen nothing about the Solide Valve doe) fit on a bowl (which I believe remembering not being the Cyclone Bowl but a longer/thinner one that would fit the hole diameter of the EZ valve).
But a detailed tuto about this mod would be really appreciated as to me it was one of the little cons of the EQV (eventhough I found other caps to lock the EQV mouthpiece...the stirring tool for example!
) and am sure many of my EQV owner buddies would love to do this MOD!
Yes somewhere on the forum (probably on this thread) there is a picture of a MOD EQV that makes the 'Cano EASY VALVE (never seen nothing about the Solide Valve doe) fit on a bowl (which I believe remembering not being the Cyclone Bowl but a longer/thinner one that would fit the hole diameter of the EZ valve).
But a detailed tuto about this mod would be really appreciated as to me it was one of the little cons of the EQV (eventhough I found other caps to lock the EQV mouthpiece...the stirring tool for example!
) and am sure many of my EQV owner buddies would love to do this MOD!
Bluntcrush
Director of Vapor Research Labs™
There is a video I came across recently which modified a water bottle cap (with valve) That was attached to the EQ Bag Whip. I will locate it (because it works GREAT!) and post a link here when I find it. In the short term, You buy a $4.00 Rubbermaid water bottle with a built in folding straw (it's a valve, hello! 
) You remove the straw from the cap (save it for later bc it makes a great whip for the MFLB) once it's removed there is a little inlet where it attached you take a piece of EQ whip and cut an inch or so off. Then attach the 1" hose you just cut to the inlet on the water bottle mouthpiece. You then attach the bag whip as normal in fill it up. Remove the full bag (covering the hole to avoid vapor loss) and stick the bag's glass stem into the 1" hose part you attached to the water bottle inlet. You then unfold the straw, take a big rip. Then fold the straw. It seals the bag so well you can literally toss the filled bag to a pal (or set it down until you're ready for another hit) The vapor stays fresh tasting for at least 30 minutes IMO...
Off to look for the video link now...
* if the video doesn't work on the link below the OP is #2079 in this thread!
Less than 5:00 minutes to find it! What do I win??
thedeserttortoise wrote:
OK>>>>>Here's a really cheap method to valve your bags on the Extreme... total cost...$4.00 plus tax. This is definitely the way to impress all your friends with the Volcano bags and valve. You'll be the envy of the town..... I mean seriously... don't you just love being a little bit different? .....Tortoise
Edit...sorry...just click the picture...to get the video to start....I'm new at this!
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo210/mr_mestizo/th_extreme005.jpg
) You remove the straw from the cap (save it for later bc it makes a great whip for the MFLB) once it's removed there is a little inlet where it attached you take a piece of EQ whip and cut an inch or so off. Then attach the 1" hose you just cut to the inlet on the water bottle mouthpiece. You then attach the bag whip as normal in fill it up. Remove the full bag (covering the hole to avoid vapor loss) and stick the bag's glass stem into the 1" hose part you attached to the water bottle inlet. You then unfold the straw, take a big rip. Then fold the straw. It seals the bag so well you can literally toss the filled bag to a pal (or set it down until you're ready for another hit) The vapor stays fresh tasting for at least 30 minutes IMO...Off to look for the video link now...
* if the video doesn't work on the link below the OP is #2079 in this thread! Less than 5:00 minutes to find it! What do I win??
thedeserttortoise wrote:
OK>>>>>Here's a really cheap method to valve your bags on the Extreme... total cost...$4.00 plus tax. This is definitely the way to impress all your friends with the Volcano bags and valve. You'll be the envy of the town..... I mean seriously... don't you just love being a little bit different? .....Tortoise
Edit...sorry...just click the picture...to get the video to start....I'm new at this!
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo210/mr_mestizo/th_extreme005.jpg
Bluntcrush
Director of Vapor Research Labs™
Sorry double post...See above ^^^
Hery Vappy
Active Member
Once you've used the o-rings on the initial bag they become more forgiving and replacement bags are not nearly as difficult to get the mouthpiece on in my experience.
CutePanda
Well-Known Member
Hello fellow users: Yesterday I decided to clean both elbows, both screens, the bag mouthpiece, and couldn't figure out a way to disconnect the mouthpiece from the whip. I cranked up the temperature to 215c on fan speed 3 and held the mouthpiece over it till it was too hot to touch with my hands and then tried to disconnect it with no luck. Should I try soaking it in hot water? Thanks!
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
CutePanda said:
All of the following has worked well for me:
Placing it in boiling water for a few minutes may be sufficient, but you will probably need something to protect your hands from the heat on the glass end. Try pulling away the tubing just a wee bit at 12 o'clock and then at 6 o'clock, alternating back and forth. Be sure to not bend down with either hand, you want the tubing to be angled straight back in line with the glass piece.
You can also try using a hair dryer. Place only the area where the tubing meets the glass in the hair dryer airflow, and rotate the piece to get it hot all around. Then as above gently work the end of the tubing at opposite positions, tugging it back a little on one side and then the other. With either of the above, once the tubing is about half way off the rest will be easier.
A third method is to just cut the tubing off near the end of the glass, and use a razor blade or exacto knife to cut a slit in the ~1/2" which is over the glass, and then peel the tubing away. It's easier to get the tubing on than off, and it's trivial to lose such a small amount of tubing. To put the tubing on, heat it making sure the heat is applied to the inside diameter as well as the outside, and then nudge it on one side then the opposite; like the above pulling removal but instead pushing a little bit at a time up the glass piece, again always keeping the glass and tubing in line.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
hereatlast said:. . . .All just my
Thanks - a heckuva lot more value than just
, though!From your comments it occurred to me that my "more water to pass through" observation re a beaker or bulb style, at the same might result in more resistance. And then there is the chug factor I hadn't thought of; even with a good diffuser the bubbles might have a propensity to re-aggregate (and hence chug). For the movement, I can see why some prefer inlines or showerheads. This all gives me more to consider (obsessive that I am
)I am quite curious about your remark that the inline "hit is very different" - I wonder if you might elaborate, i.e., in what way?
Also, re the 14/18 question, I think I worded the description poorly. Here is how ALT typically phrases it:
Slide Joint: 14 mm
Slide: 14 mm Clear Martini Style Slide
Downstem: 14/18 mm Low Profile Diffused Downstem Included
I take this to mean that while the female joint on the tube is an 18, the inside diameter down through the diffuser is 14. I understand it's simple to get an adapter. My question goes to the diameter of the diffuser itself, i.e., is the vapor passing through a path into the water which is only 14 in diameter. In contrast to this:
Slide Joint: 18 mm
Slide: 18 mm CLEAR MARTINI SLIDE INCLUDED
Downstem: 18/18 mm 6 Slit Diffused Downstem Included
Which I take to mean that besides the 18 joint the diameter of the downstem itself in the water is wider than the 14 above, and hence there is greater airflow with this setup.
I hope I haven't embarrassed myself with what turns out to be a stupidly obvious answer :/
Thanks again for the reply, and any further comments.
Dennis
hereatlast
Well-Known Member
Glad to have been able to help (or tell myself I have )
I'll take a stab at your second question first, the one with reference to the difference between 14mm and 18mm adaptors. I think its important to remember that ultimately, regarding airflow, we're at the mercy of the entire path the air can take. That said, I would think (and this is just me imposing my own far from perfect or informed knowledge and logic) that the nature of the vaporizer itself and the narrow tubing (w/e the slightly varying measurements might be) is the most causally relevant issue at hand. By the time the vapor has reached the H20 adaptor, whatever size, I think the noticeable changes in airflow have already taken place; in short, pragmatically I don't think that a 14mm adaptor would inhibit airflow much more than an 18mm adaptor...sure, the 18mm adaptor will allow more vapor to pass through, I have doubts whether or not this is of pragmatic relevance (my recc. would be to go with whatever setup is more accessible with reference to availability, price, etc.).
I will say that I'm sure an 18mm slide joint would be noticeably different than a 14mm when combusting (in most cases) owing to the inherently higher airflow when using a slide (as opposed to a vaporizer/whip combo as the source of the goodies).
I'll edit this post to try and take a stab at elaborating how different types of diffusion offer different feels...I'm sure this is an area where other users would be equipped to offer their own perspectives. I'll say in advance that trying to describe such a difference is really hard, forgive what will certainly be a futile attempt.
)I'll take a stab at your second question first, the one with reference to the difference between 14mm and 18mm adaptors. I think its important to remember that ultimately, regarding airflow, we're at the mercy of the entire path the air can take. That said, I would think (and this is just me imposing my own far from perfect or informed knowledge and logic) that the nature of the vaporizer itself and the narrow tubing (w/e the slightly varying measurements might be) is the most causally relevant issue at hand. By the time the vapor has reached the H20 adaptor, whatever size, I think the noticeable changes in airflow have already taken place; in short, pragmatically I don't think that a 14mm adaptor would inhibit airflow much more than an 18mm adaptor...sure, the 18mm adaptor will allow more vapor to pass through, I have doubts whether or not this is of pragmatic relevance (my recc. would be to go with whatever setup is more accessible with reference to availability, price, etc.).
I will say that I'm sure an 18mm slide joint would be noticeably different than a 14mm when combusting (in most cases) owing to the inherently higher airflow when using a slide (as opposed to a vaporizer/whip combo as the source of the goodies).
I'll edit this post to try and take a stab at elaborating how different types of diffusion offer different feels...I'm sure this is an area where other users would be equipped to offer their own perspectives. I'll say in advance that trying to describe such a difference is really hard, forgive what will certainly be a futile attempt.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Stu said:
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
hereatlast said:. . . (or tell myself I have
Well, pls do!
I will say that I'm sure an 18mm slide joint would be noticeably different than a 14mm when combusting (in most cases) owing to the inherently higher airflow when using a slide (as opposed to a vaporizer/whip combo as the source of the goodies).
This remark is actually quite helpful. My unfamiliarity with the various equip and its different possible applications, is clearly a signif challenge. Most of the comments I find use a short-hand vernacular which assumes prior experience; while that's understandable, I'm still (embarrassingly) at the primer level. But I'm trying to come up the curve
I'll edit this post to try and take a stab at elaborating how different types of diffusion offer different feels...I'm sure this is an area where other users would be equipped to offer their own perspectives. I'll say in advance that trying to describe such a difference is really hard, forgive what will certainly be a futile attempt.
IMHO that would be enormously useful. Hard? Maybe. Futile? Not in the least.
Thanks again, and thanks in advance.
Dennis
oldiebutgoodie said:
I'm using my EQ with 2 feet of nylon tubing (5/16 I.D.) with an elbow joint on both ends. This connects my EQ to my Ben Wilson mini inline (15 slits
). (She's my avatar now)I'm thinking about your question about restricting airflow, but I really don't think the downstem diameter makes much of a difference. You're going to be restricted by the smallest portion of your vapor path, and the 2 elbow joints (in my setup at least) have a much narrower diameter than the downstem. So if the elbow joints are the narrowest portion of the vapor path, then whatever comes "downstream" really shouldn't restrict more or less. That's my thinking anyway.
Good luck!
Stu
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Stu said:I'm using my EQ with 2 feet of nylon tubing (5/16 I.D.) with an elbow joint on both ends. This connects my EQ to my Ben Wilson mini inline (15 slits
Beautiful. Is this the 11", 13", or 14"? And I take it that this works fine with your bronchial challenges? But curious, can that donut splash guard also work as a pinch of sorts so that ice can also be used in the tube?
I'm thinking about your question about restricting airflow, but I really don't think the downstem diameter makes much of a difference. You're going to be restricted by the smallest portion of your vapor path, and the 2 elbow joints (in my setup at least) have a much narrower diameter than the downstem. So if the elbow joints are the narrowest portion of the vapor path, then whatever comes "downstream" really shouldn't restrict more or less. That's my thinking anyway.
OMG, thx for this comment and boy do I feel stupidIn the first place, I hadn't realized the elbow mouth is narrower than the downstem; the mouth diameter is 1/2" which is <13mm. Furthermore, the 5/16" diameter of the tubing is <8mm. Between your comments and hereatlast's, I realize I've been going down the rabbit hole on this one. Where I can see the 18/18 still being a factor is if there is a downstem needing to be connected to the elbow (unlike your inline), but again, even if it's an adapter that would still be larger than the incoming flow.
Mea Culpa: My only defense is that engineers are hyper-obsessive by nature, and, hell, mechanical isn't even my discipline anyway. (Jeez, that sounds lame.)
You've been a huge help. Thanks again - not just for the know-how, but the patience.
Dennis
