dusdat
Member
I tried drawing faster & slower, but still not that nice thickness that I saw on the yt video,
I tried vaporizing 10 degrees more than I usually do:
normally I go from 186 C to 200 C, with the bong I tried up to 210 C.
Didn't make that much of a difference regarding the vape thickness...
I tried vaporizing 10 degrees more than I usually do:
normally I go from 186 C to 200 C, with the bong I tried up to 210 C.
Didn't make that much of a difference regarding the vape thickness...
CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Still consider myself a new user as far as using a water pipe with vapor and can understand your skepticism. Some users are running their EQ at a higher temp which I avoid for my own reasons. Others do actually have a good extraction method/setup. I'm still not convinced whether thick clouds necessarily means good extraction though. I sense that some users are approaching near combustion temperatures or able to concentrate the heat with some sort of modification.
Other factors like how well the pieces are preheated, The type of grind of the herbs, How dry, and the type of pack also factor into this.
But I would like to hear a few expert opinions as to how to achieve thick clouds.
My setup couldn't be much more basic and scale-able. I did test my water piece to see if there was enough fan power from the EQ to cause it to bubble on it's own. I also tried to keep the pathway wide from bowl to bong. The water piece I own is essentially a small kettle with a straight stem built in. The chamber that the vapor fills in, can be cleared much like a bong. It works great dry and is easy to use one handed. I can slide a smaller silicone tube into the stem If I wanted to narrow the path. Can add glass stones into the base, if I want to use even less water. Which I might do at some point. Much like the versatility an old school bong.
dusdat
Member
I always assumed this, because first two bags on a fresh filled up cyclone bowl are always thick and cloudy.
Best extraction from the freshest herb, right?
Nugg
Well-Known Member
Try 230c with the ddave mod or 250c on the stock set up. It might sound high but because you are pulling the air in a bit faster it doesn't get as much time to heat up. Make sure all the glass pieces are warmed up and let the load heat soak for a couple minutes before you hit it.
I like a medium grind. Decent amount of surface area and keeps air flow good.
I pack I vacuum load a full elbow pack and then tamp it down. Sometimes I make 4 indents around the edge of the load and one in the middle. Increased surface area and more heat penitration is my thinking.
I like a medium grind. Decent amount of surface area and keeps air flow good.
I pack I vacuum load a full elbow pack and then tamp it down. Sometimes I make 4 indents around the edge of the load and one in the middle. Increased surface area and more heat penitration is my thinking.
elastic.plastic
Looking for interesting people and vapes
CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
@Nugg Nice gifs! 
Like that you have that red carburetor in all your setups. The bottom gif tells a story on it's own. I will refer to these gif's as to 'How it's done, son."
Been studying the different actions of the 3 setups. Thanks for posting.
Also took your advice and cranked the heat up to 230C and drew fast right away, to prevent any scorching or clogging of the screen. Got the thick clouds, much like the ones in your images, as soon as I turned on the fan.
But almost no popcorn kernal/burnt taste/metal screen taste at the end, which is the downside that I've been trying to avoid.
I have been getting consistent vapor at lower temps, but after perfecting my setup over time and then 'going for it' made for some thick syrupy-terpy vapor. BTW, Does anybody ever get salty vapor? I still refer to the chart below and only want to extract everything at 392F(200C) range and below and try to offset any extra heat from the EQ with the fan running and subsequently, get nearly full convection heat working on releasing the green goodness. Which is my aim is at extraction. Glad I can now achieve this without accidentally combusting. I'm going to try to get that same cloud effect at 220C and lower if possible with smaller amounts. But I feel like I'm getting more of a knack for this and not depending on high temps alone to get results. Plus I have F/F bowl and wand that retains heat fairly well. Which adds a little chimney heat effect.
Like that you have that red carburetor in all your setups. The bottom gif tells a story on it's own. I will refer to these gif's as to 'How it's done, son."Been studying the different actions of the 3 setups. Thanks for posting.
Also took your advice and cranked the heat up to 230C and drew fast right away, to prevent any scorching or clogging of the screen. Got the thick clouds, much like the ones in your images, as soon as I turned on the fan.
But almost no popcorn kernal/burnt taste/metal screen taste at the end, which is the downside that I've been trying to avoid. I have been getting consistent vapor at lower temps, but after perfecting my setup over time and then 'going for it' made for some thick syrupy-terpy vapor. BTW, Does anybody ever get salty vapor? I still refer to the chart below and only want to extract everything at 392F(200C) range and below and try to offset any extra heat from the EQ with the fan running and subsequently, get nearly full convection heat working on releasing the green goodness. Which is my aim is at extraction. Glad I can now achieve this without accidentally combusting. I'm going to try to get that same cloud effect at 220C and lower if possible with smaller amounts. But I feel like I'm getting more of a knack for this and not depending on high temps alone to get results. Plus I have F/F bowl and wand that retains heat fairly well. Which adds a little chimney heat effect.
kellya86
Herb gardener...
The lcd display is not the temperature of your herb. It's the temperature of the sensor located inside the heater cover.
So just because the dial says 250, doesn't mean your weed will be combusting. It may only realistically be at 230
Edit:
I have been meaning to get round to putting a thermocouple inside the adapter and make a scale of true temps for wand pack, adapter, and stock elbow. Can't believe this hasn't been done by someone already? That was kind of a question.
So just because the dial says 250, doesn't mean your weed will be combusting. It may only realistically be at 230
Edit:
I have been meaning to get round to putting a thermocouple inside the adapter and make a scale of true temps for wand pack, adapter, and stock elbow. Can't believe this hasn't been done by someone already? That was kind of a question.
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AJS
Calm Consistency
My friend has had an EQ for some time now. While I never used it while it was performing at it's best, I used it for the first time the other day and it wasn't very satisfying. He said it has fallen off performance wise and isn't even close to what it used to be. He isn't an FC member and hasn't done any research on his vape, he is just sorta slowly accepting that it's dying. I've spent some time on this forum, but don't know the ins and outs of the vape. I know of DDaves mod and that's about it when it comes to new attachments. Is there anything to be done to restore his vape?! He says it was treated well.
CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Sometimes a simple cleaning has been enough to get mine to work well again. I have cleaned the heater glass with Q-tips dipped in ISO or clean the loose particles out of the fan. A few times, I have run the heater and fan on F3 full blast for a few seconds. To allow it to 'self clean'. Don't know of anything directly that would cause a unit to slowly die over time. Is the display working O.K?
AJS
Calm Consistency
@CuckFumbustion Pretty sure it's working, if by that you mean it digitally shows the temperature. If you mean if it's accurate, I don't know. I'm really interested in getting this thing to vape at tip top performance! When I used it, I had to pack a pretty decent amount (I'm use to the E-Nano, so that was a struggle)...I got some nice tasty hits, but nothing that was thick...and it took way too long to get the hit, super long draw.
kellya86
Herb gardener...
I have had my eq in many pieces, many times, over the last week. Had it apart tonight.
Anyway, the first time I took it apart and put it back together, (only a few days ago), I was blown away when I turned it back on. Its now much, much, better.
I can't fully explain this yet. But my heater cover was never quite in the middle from new. It is now.
Just take it apart, clean, and reassemble. Might work.
Anyway, the first time I took it apart and put it back together, (only a few days ago), I was blown away when I turned it back on. Its now much, much, better.
I can't fully explain this yet. But my heater cover was never quite in the middle from new. It is now.
Just take it apart, clean, and reassemble. Might work.
There are a lot of factors that can attribute to a decline in performance of a heating device.
The most common for the EQ is the dreaded "heater cover crack"...
Other possibility:
Take the power brick for example. Still getting warm to the touch. Green light remain stable? Any chance of borrowing another power brick to test?
When the unit is on highest heat setting, and cyclone bowl on unit... after 15 minutes is the cyclone bowl hot to the touch? *Don't burn yourself!*
The temperature display and lights, are they stable or do they flicker?
AJS
Calm Consistency
@kellya86
@DDave
Thank you for the tips for checking if everything is working properly! When I visit my friend or if I can contact him soon I will have him check everything mentioned so far. When I go over there I will attempt to disassemble it assuming it doesn't void warranty and is simple enough (I will watch videos/look it up on how to do it).
I am determined to make this a power ripper!
@DDave
Thank you for the tips for checking if everything is working properly! When I visit my friend or if I can contact him soon I will have him check everything mentioned so far. When I go over there I will attempt to disassemble it assuming it doesn't void warranty and is simple enough (I will watch videos/look it up on how to do it).
I am determined to make this a power ripper!
No sweat, glad to help.
Good video, the music will drive you insane though!
Good luck and let us know what's discovered!
AJS
Calm Consistency
Thank you man, will let you know when everything goes down.
Anyone who has anything else to add, I'll be watching the thread
kellya86
Herb gardener...
All this disassembly and reassembly got me thinking,
Can you tell if the heater cover is cracked without taking the machine apart?
If not, then do you ever know if it's cracked. I mean, when you put it back together all can be fine, but then when you heat it for the first time it could fracture and unless you heard it, you would not know.
So you could take it apart and check again, and it could be fine. But you only know it's fine at that moment you see it before you reassemble. Is this making sense?
Can you tell if the heater cover is cracked without taking the machine apart?
If not, then do you ever know if it's cracked. I mean, when you put it back together all can be fine, but then when you heat it for the first time it could fracture and unless you heard it, you would not know.
So you could take it apart and check again, and it could be fine. But you only know it's fine at that moment you see it before you reassemble. Is this making sense?
From what I've heard, performance drops to unacceptable levels.
Viewing angle is quite prohibitive. Now thinking on the subject, a cheap dental mirror...the one that the dentist puts in your mouth to get a look at the sides of your teeth.... that may work....
kellya86
Herb gardener...
The dental mirror would only help to see the ground glass section. If the break was lower down, within the plastic housing, you would not see it. And could be inadvertently inhaling microscopic glass shards as they are drawn up through the air path.
For my peace of mind I put and extra sleeve on it and left the screws a little looser.
Edit: Tip, when you are reassembling the eq, do it in silence so you can here and fracture or crack. And do first warm up in silence too.
For my peace of mind I put and extra sleeve on it and left the screws a little looser.
Edit: Tip, when you are reassembling the eq, do it in silence so you can here and fracture or crack. And do first warm up in silence too.
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CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Nice general repair tip!
I tend to do all my repairs and testing in silence, including my PC and other hardware. Also I listen for 'electronic' sounding noises or if the fan sounds like it is working harder than needed.Like ALL THE TIPS EVERYBODY is giving each other regarding internal repairs.
I am scared to venture out there alone, If there was ever a need or I caved in and upgraded my heater glass. I do need to get around to opening it up and do a proper cleaning. The fan in my previous one was blade less. If that is at all helpful.Whether cleaning,inspecting and/or repairing, I would avoid putting any unnecessary pressure on the cap end. They can form stress cracks. My replacement has been great so far, but the one I sent back for RMA had the stress cracks and then the stress breaks. When I was inspecting the fan vent, pieces fell off. But the replacement has been feeno-fino.
It is a conundrum of a situation. (There is/was better glass replacements out there.BTW) But yea, you won't really know until you have it put back together. Then the audio inspection when you turn on the power, then the heat.
As far as the possible glass shards. Understand your concerns and the type of hidden problems that could be there. Especially for a first time repair.
After reassembling the EQ. Maybe do a test dry run with just the bowl, wand or elbow, some hose and a catcher of some sort, like say a coffee filter and a rubber band. No inhaling. 
Just MAX run the fan with the bowl screenless. Then inspect the catcher. Any other ideas to test for this?@ajsitkowski Yes, you might want to know what your friends warranty situation is before getting your hands in. I don't know what the retailer considers voidable circumstances. But Arizer does have cleaning instructions and heater glass replacement instructions. I would try all my cleaning options first. Then consider repair/no repair.
With mine, I got with the retailer directly and then told him my intentions of cleaning and inspecting the unit to figure what was wrong. But after all that and some time later, we discovered it was a semi-typical PCB problem, it went back to him, then Arizer. Replacement had been all good.
Good Luck!
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Treeburner
Well-Known Member
Having only recently started vaporizing again after purchasing a Davinci Ascent (and then a 2nd), I decided I wanted a desktop unit as well, so after comparing features and reviews on different models I settled on the Extreme Q. I also invested in a 2 chamber, 500ml bong with a 14mm slide to use with it, and have a 14mm whip adapter on the way. For now I've been pushing the standard whip and mouthpiece down into the slide, where the silicone is sealing against the inside of the slide to make an airtight connection. Not as friendly or pretty as a GonG joint, but once my adapter arrives that's the next step. That will also allow the use of the 14mm hydrotube I bought for the portable.
Have been switching between packing the cyclone bowl and packing the elbow, and after some experimentation I have come to the same conclusion that is the consensus here, which is that packing the elbow is more efficient and produces better vapor. Eventually I may try to expand the elbow packing area, but for now it seems to be perfect size for one person (so I pack two since I vape with my fiancee).
If there was one thing I would change about the Extreme Q, it would simply be to add a 14mm and 18mm GonG whip adapter to the package, even if it added a few bucks to the price. This would allow the use of water devices with the Extreme Q, which is a logical addition to the whip and bag options included.
Anyway, thank you all for your suggestions and input - have not been able to read through the entire thread, but with all the tips here I'm confident I'm making good use of the device pre-heating and packing the elbow.
-Treeburner
Have been switching between packing the cyclone bowl and packing the elbow, and after some experimentation I have come to the same conclusion that is the consensus here, which is that packing the elbow is more efficient and produces better vapor. Eventually I may try to expand the elbow packing area, but for now it seems to be perfect size for one person (so I pack two since I vape with my fiancee).
If there was one thing I would change about the Extreme Q, it would simply be to add a 14mm and 18mm GonG whip adapter to the package, even if it added a few bucks to the price. This would allow the use of water devices with the Extreme Q, which is a logical addition to the whip and bag options included.
Anyway, thank you all for your suggestions and input - have not been able to read through the entire thread, but with all the tips here I'm confident I'm making good use of the device pre-heating and packing the elbow.
-Treeburner
jojo0420
Cloud Chaser
Have you tried warm/hot water in your piece?
Vapor is different than smoke, cold water will cause some to condense in the water and on the glass.
Personally I use water filtration when ever possible, I typically run full on hot water through my bubbler for a minute or so then dump it and fill with warm water. Much better performance and taste.