The only thing you didn't mention was the .15g of White Widow in the elbow (and that is really the secret sauce of the setup).
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Sheesh . . . thread lays quiet for days, then bang and a string of posts . . .
I have a ~25x400mm straight tube with a diffused downstem, and I don't like it for vaporizing. Maybe if I had lungs like SLiM, but for me too much work and I've got to prime it to get good air ratio. A shorter and slimmer tube with a small (<2oz) water chamber and a good downstem is better. But my preference is a bubbler, the Black Leaf linked above is a good example. And of course, diffusion is important and a major factor in drag and smoothness.
@harmudge, you mention an 18/19 removable bowl. Be careful. In some bongs there is a single downstem with a bowl on top. When you pull the downstem to attach your Q elbow, you lose your diffuser. My bong has a 2-piece downstem where the bowl inserts into the downstem diffuser. Or you just need a downstem which at top is itself a male/female joint, like in Stu's pic above.
Kommyknocker
Well-Known Member
It's the thread that just keeps on giving!
Obg!!
I told you he'd arise from the ashes.. or should I say abv
It was like that T Rex scene from jurassic park except it was my bong water that rippled with his approach such was the mighty vastness of his nugs of know!
So my black leaf should do the job ya? It's not here yets.
I'm in fife bud
Can you still do the accent if you want?
Sheesh . . . thread lays quiet for days, then bang and a string of posts . . .
I have a ~25x400mm straight tube with a diffused downstem, and I don't like it for vaporizing. Maybe if I had lungs like SLiM, but for me too much work and I've got to prime it to get good air ratio. A shorter and slimmer tube with a small (<2oz) water chamber and a good downstem is better. But my preference is a bubbler, the Black Leaf linked above is a good example. And of course, diffusion is important and a major factor in drag and smoothness.
@harmudge, you mention an 18/19 removable bowl. Be careful. In some bongs there is a single downstem with a bowl on top. When you pull the downstem to attach your Q elbow, you lose your diffuser. My bong has a 2-piece downstem where the bowl inserts into the downstem diffuser. Or you just need a downstem which at top is itself a male/female joint, like in Stu's pic above.
Obg!!
I told you he'd arise from the ashes.. or should I say abv
It was like that T Rex scene from jurassic park except it was my bong water that rippled with his approach such was the mighty vastness of his nugs of know!
So my black leaf should do the job ya? It's not here yets.
I'm in fife bud
Can you still do the accent if you want?
Thanks for the words of wisdom oldie.
Sure I can...these southerners still can't understand me, especially if I go off on one...lol...or if I have just had a visit home...lol.
Kommyknocker
Well-Known Member
Whats that crazy shit you say.. dinnae nae no nah????? tell me you know!!
kingofnull
ace
Vinyl tubing is less flexible and more difficult to clean than medical silicone, not to mention safer. Although some will disagree with me on this, you can soak silicone tube in an alcohol solution to clean - something you absolutely can not with PVC. And I can't tell you the amount of times I nearly toppled my EQ because the stiff stock tubing refused to flex when I picked up the mouthpiece. Because it's more flexible you can use a greater variety of mouthpieces and 18mm vaporizer whip joints than you can with the stock tubing.
I'd make sure any tubing I used is medical grade. I don't see any need to endanger my health to save a few bucks. My
.$31 isn't the best price I've ever seen for medical grade silicon tubing, but it's not bad. You'll get 8-10 whips out of that length, each of which can be cleaned as mentioned above.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Obg!!
I told you he'd arise from the ashes.. or should I say abv
It was like that T Rex scene from jurassic park except it was my bong water that rippled with his approach such was the mighty vastness of his nugs of know!
So my black leaf should do the job ya?
I'm feeling about as old as that T-Rex these days, but that's another story . . .
The Black Leaf should do the job. How much you like how it does that, that's a different question and only you can say. Let us know what you think.
I agree, but of course it depends on a person's set up and routine. The pvc is very inflexible and miserable when inserting/removing glass pieces, easy to break the attachments. The Japanese pvc which Arizer supplies conforms to international food-grade standards, but pvc at the hardware store that I've seen definitely does not. I bought 25' of silicone 2 yrs ago, still have plenty left.
I wonder if this piece is more expensive because it's made for BL by Toro. But the glass isn't very thick.
kingofnull
ace
For the price of that Blackleaf, I feel like there's a lot of better options. Nothing against Blackleaf, they make some cool looking stuff... even if they do slap their logo garishly on every piece.
There's a couple of cheap rigs in the Cheap, high-quality bubbler?? thread right now.
I'm endlessly pleased with my SSFG travel beaker for vaporizing with the Extreme Q.
There's a couple of cheap rigs in the Cheap, high-quality bubbler?? thread right now.
I'm endlessly pleased with my SSFG travel beaker for vaporizing with the Extreme Q.
Liberty
Well-Known Member
RE-POST: I have the Arizer V-Tower. I like to use it with the Whip Hit/Elbow Pack technique. I normally start on 190 C (with high quality material; 200-210 C with mids) until the vapor becomes thin and then increase the temp to 205 C, repeat, and then finally at 220 C (depending on the quality of the material, I have taken it up to 240 C). Is this similar to how others have found it most effective? Thanks.
kingofnull
ace
That's pretty much how I use mine with the whip.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Seems from posts here that yours is a fairly common routine. Many find that with higher temp comes more harshness, so the quality of the material as well as being able to moisture/cool the vapor are important factors.
m0sh
Singer Song Writer Stoner
Stop at 220C IMO, 240C is combustion already.
I just stay at 200C let it hit up 15mins and after you think is over I squash the herb a bit more and go again...
Liberty
Well-Known Member
I have never had material burn in my V-Tower. And, taking it up to 240 C seems necessary to get everything out of mids and wandhash.
kingofnull
ace
Elbow packs tend to be 10-20 degrees lower than in the cyclone bowl. 240 = 220-230 C. Lots of cannabinoids left in that temperature range.
m0sh
Singer Song Writer Stoner
Dunno...I don't agree, when you leave it inside long enough the top will be as hot as the lower part
kingofnull
ace
Agree to disagree then, because I can touch the elbow but not the cyclone. Similarly I can touch the elbow screen when it's in the elbow, but when it's fallen into the cyclone it's often too hot to touch.
I've also vaped at those high temperatures many times in the Extreme Q and I've not combusted yet.
m0sh
Singer Song Writer Stoner
Combustion starts at 236C
Liberty
Well-Known Member
My experience with the V-Tower comports with yours. And, ditto on the ability to touch the elbow while not being able to touch the cyclone bowl when being used.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
The V-Tower and the Q have different sensor designs, for that matter IIRC there have been sensor changes in subsequent Q revisions. IMO the temp readings are only a useful reference point helping the user to consistently dial in his/her sweet spot, and should not be taken as precise. Depending on variables such as airflow, air ratio, load size, density and dryness of material, the air temp entering the load is much hotter than its exit. And that doesn't allow for differences in one person's sensibilities compared to the next, i.e., what feels like too hot for me is not that hot for you. And btw, it is not absolutely necessary to go to a high temp to get the CBD's which have a higher boiling point, although more heat will extract those faster. The process is one of evaporation; sustained lower heat will extract those canniboids, too (think of simmering a pot of water; all the water can evaporate w/o ever reaching boiling point.) As far as combustion with the Q, some have had that happen at 240C while others have at 260C and yet others not at all regardless of setting; the variables easily explain the range.
kingofnull
ace
That doesn't mean it's going to burn at that temperature. I've vaporized flowers much higher than that temperature without combustion.
Aside from the excellent comments about accuracy from oldiebutgoodie, it's plant material. The temperature at which it ignites depends on the moisture content. Vaporizing removes moisture. It's possible that while your cannabis might not combust at 240°C initially, continued vaping at that temperature could reach combustion, but I'd expect it to taste so bad that you'd stop before that happens.