The Bud Toaster - (currently: Model 14, version 3)

[stinkmeaner]

Just looking so much more sleek with the cube, I think it is going to achieve a higher fit & finish on this new model, I can already tell.

What is the thermal/temperature cut-off? I couldn't find it.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

ah ... you couldn't find it because i haven't put one in yet. i'm still thinking about it. i know where to put it and how to hook it in, but i haven't spec'd a part yet.

 

[stinkmeaner]

How much more complicated would it be if someone did this design and wanted to add LCD + Built In Thermometer?

 

[Hippie Dickie]

a lot more complicated ... easy enough to show the k-type thermocouple temperature on the LCD display, but the LCD display is complicated.

If the PIC drives the LCD display directly, the PIC needs another 15 pins or so (i'd have to check) and mating the LCD pins to the PIC driving pins would probably require a molded enclosure so the tolerances are within a very tight range.

If i could find an LCD display that has a serial interface, then the PIC only needs 3 more pins (if i don't share the serial i/o lines with the MAX). Definitely more doable, but all the serial LCD displays i've found so far are way too big, like >2" wide by >1" high.

In both cases, a more beefy PIC is needed to handle the extra program space required.

That design will be for a follow up vape in the Bud Toaster product line.

Bubar was going along that development path.

i am considering integrating the newest Apple Nano as the user control interface -- mainly to handle specifying different temperature profiles (over time) to handle different aroma therapy herbs (e.g. hash, honey oil, salvia, etc.).

 

[Hippie Dickie]

Yeah, baby!

i just figured out the solution to how to keep the thermometer locked into the cube ... the plastic face of the thermometer (two part plastic case - face has the pcb, back has the metal dip stick -- this is a BBQ thermometer which can read to 300C (!!!) and auto shutoff (!!!!!)) has a "lip" that normally mates to a plastic back by snapping into a groove. it finally dawned on me that i could dremel a groove in the opening in the cube, about 1/32" in from the edge:

and

Works perfectly -- the thermometer face just snaps into place and holds securely (even after a lot of ineffective trimming of the hole).

And here is how the light pipes bring the two LEDs from the pcb to the top of the cube:

Here is the bottom disc milled to hold the pcb and expose the push buttons:

and the view from the bottom:

Lousy fit and trim, i know (due to free-hand marking and drilling -- damn bits like to skew), but for the first attempt it's not too bad (if it furthers testing).



Next step ... install the stainless steel heat shield.

 

[2clicker]

great stuff dickie!

 

[stinkmeaner]

Maybe you could use a silicone button pad over your buttons to give them some height so you don't have to drill around them, they would also fill up the gap to look more OEM.

Here is a guy who cast his own from silicone
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/4123209281/

Here is a site that has an example: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=10069

 

[Hippie Dickie]

nice links, stinkm, thanks.

i can do better with the buttons ... i've just got a mental block about getting the alignment right. They must be sub-surface so they don't accidentally get pressed - either when handling the cube or setting it down on the table. Eventually i'll set up a jig so the device mounting and drilling is spot on.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

Keeping it all together ...

One of the perpetual complexities of this ongoing project is how to make an enclosure that holds itself together. That's why i particularly like the cylinder, no fasteners required. However, the cube is another matter.

So i'm really happy to have come up with a scheme to hold it together with just two 4-40 screws.

i put a grove in both the inside of the cherry wood body (i love my dremel) ...

and also in the side of the stainless steel heat shield ...

Then i cut and tapped two clips to fit into the grooves ...

and voila, just screw this kitty together ...

One nice feature of this arrangement is it allows a certain amount of slop (technical term for "loose tolerance") in the fabrication process. That's always a win.

i am really, really trying to convince myself that this is finally a manufacturable unit. i was able to make three of the cylinder that are in constant use. Now i am gonna try to make 10 cubes.

Next step ... attach the heater coil and install the custom glassware from my factory in India.

 

[The_Reckoning]

Long time lurker, reading this thread again moved me to register.

Great work Hippie, you are thorough and entertaining to read. Awesome to see your child evolve in front of us all. Keep it up. Best of luck to you.

 

[tuttle]

i put a grove in both the inside of the cherry wood body (i love my dremel) ...


and also in the side of the stainless steel heat shield ...


Then i cut and tapped two clips to fit into the grooves ...

That is a pretty nice solution, I like If you are going to do it for real (production), you are going to want to look at a slot cutting bit and arbor to mount it on (something like these guys) for the body, and probably a horizontal bandsaw for the slots in the stainless. I know you can buy the tabs already (as I have done so before) but I will have to chase down that source.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

@The_Reckoning -- thanks for your words of encouragement, they are greatly appreciated. And welcome to FC as a registered member!

Yesterday was kind of frustrating ... for some reason, once i get a few pieces of hardware fabricated (specifically, the copper clips for mounting the coil) , i have the mistaken idea that all the bits and pieces will just self-assemble and i'll be tasting vapor. Well, not yesterday.

First, soldering in the clips took far more time and effort than expected, and now i find i need to redo them to make them shorter and slimmer. The change will make the power cable exit the cube better, the coil will have more vertical adjustment, and the possibility of a short with the metal shield will be eliminated.

Not a big issue, for sure, just frustrating ... i kind of feel like i'm in a mad dash for some undefined finish line (Christmas, perhaps). That third cylinder was going to be a birthday present, then a christmas present, then a wedding present, then a christmas present (again), and finally, finally, it was the next year's birthday present.

i find it quite challenging to design in 3D (using 2D tools) and then have the device flow together. i always miss an important viewpoint -- i just have to hack something together before i can make the next leap forward. One of my (many) character flaws is that once i see the solution to a problem (i.e. the software that provides temp control), i assume implementing the solution is just a detail ... but it always turns out to be tedious, challenging, and time consuming.

@tuttle - thanks for that link - it looks to be a great woodworking resource. And recently i've been lusting after a tabletop bandsaw at Lowe's for about $150.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

thinking in Chinese ...

i've resorted to pictures and arrows and paragraphs on the back ... to communicate with my China supplier.

But i learned a useful number ... it costs $770 USD to have a custom plastic mould fabricated. i wonder if they use a 3D printer to make the new part and create the mould?

So i received the first 10 thermometers for my run of pre-production prototype Perfect Cubes. My millwright consultant doesn't have any cherry available, but does have a bit of mahogany straight from the jungle ... could be interesting.

 

[stinkmeaner]

Wow that is a good deal of money for an enclosure. Did you tell them it was a prototype? They can usually do a prototype without making a permanent mold.

I deal with foreign suppliers in my day job and I can tell you one thing about the Chinese and most Asian countries, THEY LOVE TO HAGGLE! And they are known to quote you a price then attempt to raise the cost before or even at the beginning of fabrication, the best strategy I found is just tell them what you are willing to pay and stand your ground or tell them you have another factory do it for less, chances are they will yield because there are so many factories stacked on top of each other and all are in competition.

Off topic but I have to say that these factories are not what we consider factories, most are small and dirty with safety violations galore, they will use anything from run down houses to aluminum garage structures/sheds to big warehouses. Guangzhou, Pearl River Delta, and all of the Shenzhen area seem to have almost as many factories as cars.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

And it's not even an enclosure ... just the back half of the thermometer case. i can't seem to get across the idea (even with photos) that the thermometer is embedded in the side of the cube. But i keep trying.

 

[stinkmeaner]

If it is that small they can just use a lathe & mill with or without CNC. I couldn't find the post that shows what you are looking for, could you describe what you need?

 

[Hippie Dickie]

yeah, post #625, the bottom two photos show the face of the thermometer, and with it mounted in the front side of the cube. It is a BBQ thermometer that reads up to 300C/572F -- with auto shutoff. The back of the case has a metal spike for sticking the thermometer into a side of roasting beast.

i did get them to shorten the leads on the thermocouple probe to 70mm.

 

[stinkmeaner]

I had an idea for your inside glass heater for this or future models, is it okay I email it to you?

 

[Hippie Dickie]

email is fine ... or you can post it in the thread.

 

[stinkmeaner]

I sent it over to you. The idea while nothing serious is still better than every glass vaporizer on the market. Best thing about it is you could easily have a local glass blower make it or pick one from Etsy.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

not received ... did you hit the "send" button?

 

[stinkmeaner]

Yeah I did and now my email account is suspended I was using a email account called Luxmail for my online activity like forums and such and I maybe sent like 4-5 messages and now they suspended it for no apparent reason and want a credit card payment of $24.95 to look into it. What a scamming joke.

I am going to send again from my regular email so check in like 5 min.

 

[stinkmeaner]

Okay it should really be there this time

 

[Hippie Dickie]

Model 14 Version 1 ---> First vapor @ 11:00 PM

Well, after two days of doing what felt like bit-fiddling, but with hardware instead of software, i got this model screwed together. A continuity test indicated (nothing is ever proved until power on) the heat shield wasn't shorting out the battery connections. So, i thought what the hell, and i soldered on the Deans connector and plugged this kitty into the battery pack.


And, Ta Da! Here is the Perfect Cube running in the light ...

And here is the PC being subtle in just the glow of its LEDs ...

And, yeah, the blue LED really is that bright ... drat! both the green and blue are too bright (camera must be super sensitive to blue) ... only need about 1/4 that amount of light output. i'll try a bigger current limiting resistor tomorrow -- maybe kick it up to 1K ohm from 220 ohm just to see. i might also scuff the ends of the light pipe. Lots of things to try.

But at least for one session -- the FIRST session -- The Perfect Cube produced the vapors and didn't melt.

Progress!

 

[stinkmeaner]

I really like the way the lighting came out, the color variety is great and the way the red shines through the heating chamber looks real professional.

Would the existing hardware work for a mains powered model?