The Arizer Air

[Traaaaan]

Draw restriction is needed, otherwise you'll overpower the heater and get wispy baby hits.

 

[OF]

Draw restriction is needed, otherwise you'll overpower the heater and get wispy baby hits.

Restriction or self restraint.......

Yeah, I get it, self restraint isn't near as reliable.

OF

 

[F3minusD]

I have three genuine batteries and am very happy with them.
I have a PVHES straight turbo and I was very happy with it, till I dropped it (not tried it since chopping the end off, 15mm shorter now)
I have an easy flow 14mm gong (awaiting a pinnacle water tube, never tried water and fancy'd a go) and it work's well as a mouth piece.
No-one told me to buy anything, I chose to buy an Air and then made up my own mind to find out how other people used them, and had my mind blown by the freely available, concise, and completely unbiased information in these 203 pages.
Statement ends. (warm up begun)
Big up all the Air thread legends, we all know who they are.

 

[F3minusD]

I now prefer the pvhes straight turbo that got dropped, trimmed, wet and dry'd smooooth and is technically 'customized'? !

Sorry

 

[macbill]

I found that the mouthpiece on an Air makes a nice seal in a 14 mm female glass adapter. In the below case, it's an 18 M to 14 F adapter in the claisen adapter.

 

[Carl Hempel]

Dude it really tested my patience earlier lol. Even if I get it right and it wont get into the mouthpiece but I still can't get it to where water wont get trapped between the glass on the inside causing the water level to drop below the holes in the glass.
What kind of funnel you using? That's a small hole (pun intended. Hehe) whenever I put water, it just beads up in the mouthpiece and I have to shake it to drip down into the bubbler

lol yes, I get the frustration - I seem to have the filling of it down now, the funnel does help massively - stops the beading up of water in the MP. I'm using a 3cm Perfume Diffuser Funnel I found on Ebay (purchased for filling another watertool funnily enough)

 

[OF]

Have you guys tried filling it from the bottom (bowl) end? That's how I fill this one:

The trap at the top retains the right amount of water, everything else flows out. Takes a few seconds, works great.

I'd hope they tuned the trap for this (as anti spill), but if not simply adjust a bit.

OF

 

[WoodVillain]

Curious...

I know there has been several people complaining/commenting about the plastic/rubber heater cover not staying on...

Are these people with the Air that does NOT have the battery indicator? Im wondering if they fixed the issue from earlier models because mine is on there great. I can pick the Air up by the heater cover and shake it around a little and it still not coming off....

I wanted to take it off for a second just a bit ago, but it feels like id have to rip/break the rubber piece off to get it off.

 

[VANVAS]

Mine had the bat. indicator and was always with the skin and one day after a session ... Died ! I tried a soft reset but not worked. I believe the skin retains the hot too much!

 

[OF]

I believe the skin retains the hot too much!

I agree with you, but tend to think of it more in terms of 'retains more heat than necessary'. IMO heat is to be avoided if long life is the goal.

By way of support for this, it's common practice in Electronics to use 'burn in' (short runs at elevated temperatures) to weed out weak parts before shipment. It (running at intentionally higher temperatures) is also a common techniques to simulate long life. That is the stress of being XX degrees hotter for YY hours simulates ZZ years of normal service.

Many years ago I worked for an outfit that made safety related ship equipment, specifically a radar accessory that tracked other ships (and land targets) to prevent collisions. As it can take a very long time to change the course of a large ship under weigh (fractions of an hour in some cases to reverse course) this is not trivial. This sort of gear is, for instance, required to enter Prince William Sound (where Exxon Valdez had it's nasty spill). The Coast Guard boards and tests each ship, if the ARPA (Automatic Radar Plotting Aid) doesn't work, no entry. Seriously. We had 'old school skippers' who would only run them for inspections when the Pilot and Coasties showed up on entry.

To make Coast Guard certified ARPAs you need to use all Military grade components (a single commercial IC anywhere disqualifies you) for reliability. Hugely expensive if you have a few thousand components to deal with as we did. The alternative, which we did, was to do 100% function testing before, during and after a 100 hour run in a 50 degree C heat chamber (plus a 12 hour zero C 'soak' cold and off with successful cold start. Sucking in 50C 'cooling air' makes it run very hot inside and simulates many years normal service. Early failures are 'eliminated' (they break early), before too much of the normal life span is 'spent'.

I can tell you from experience that going into 'the hot box' at 50C twice (or more) per day to test each unit inside (maybe 20 or 30 minutes with brief breaks outside to cool off some) was not the best job assignment in the shop....... We all took turns, to call in sick when it was your day in the box was sure to merit notice on your return.

Long professional experience in the area has lead me to the general belief 'heat is the enemy'. I try to avoid it as a matter of principle I guess. And recommend same. It's no guarantee of early failure to run hotter, but if I did and it failed I'd be upset with myself for not avoiding the risk. IMO I know better.

OF

 

[bluenavey00]

I agree with you, but tend to think of it more in terms of 'retains more heat than necessary'. IMO heat is to be avoided if long life is the goal.

By way of support for this, it's common practice in Electronics to use 'burn in' (short runs at elevated temperatures) to weed out weak parts before shipment. It (running at intentionally higher temperatures) is also a common techniques to simulate long life. That is the stress of being XX degrees hotter for YY hours simulates ZZ years of normal service.

Many years ago I worked for an outfit that made safety related ship equipment, specifically a radar accessory that tracked other ships (and land targets) to prevent collisions. As it can take a very long time to change the course of a large ship under weigh (fractions of an hour in some cases to reverse course) this is not trivial. This sort of gear is, for instance, required to enter Prince William Sound (where Exxon Valdez had it's nasty spill). The Coast Guard boards and tests each ship, if the ARPA (Automatic Radar Plotting Aid) doesn't work, no entry. Seriously. We had 'old school skippers' who would only run them for inspections when the Pilot and Coasties showed up on entry.

To make Coast Guard certified ARPAs you need to use all Military grade components (a single commercial IC anywhere disqualifies you) for reliability. Hugely expensive if you have a few thousand components to deal with as we did. The alternative, which we did, was to do 100% function testing before, during and after a 100 hour run in a 50 degree C heat chamber (plus a 12 hour zero C 'soak' cold and off with successful cold start. Sucking in 50C 'cooling air' makes it run very hot inside and simulates many years normal service. Early failures are 'eliminated' (they break early), before too much of the normal life span is 'spent'.

I can tell you from experience that going into 'the hot box' at 50C twice (or more) per day to test each unit inside (maybe 20 or 30 minutes with brief breaks outside to cool off some) was not the best job assignment in the shop....... We all took turns, to call in sick when it was your day in the box was sure to merit notice on your return.

Long professional experience in the area has lead me to the general belief 'heat is the enemy'. I try to avoid it as a matter of principle I guess. And recommend same. It's no guarantee of early failure to run hotter, but if I did and it failed I'd be upset with myself for not avoiding the risk. IMO I know better.

OF

So @OF, is your theory basically that using the skin would strain the heater and the battery less to get up to and maintain the temp.


But the damage caused by the slow heat dissipation after the session is worse in terms of possible damage caused?

 

[OF]

So @OF, is your theory basically that using the skin would strain the heater and the battery less to get up to and maintain the temp.

But the damage caused by the slow heat dissipation after the session is worse in terms of possible damage caused?

Sort of. I'm not worried about any sort of strain on the heater (in fact there's more with the cover since the average temperature is higher, that is the hottest part is the same temperature but everything else is hotter). And I'm not worried about the battery from a power standpoint, it's well within ratings and we're only going get slightly longer battery life with the cover in terms of time between recharges but we'll also shorten the battery's lifespan (in terms of needing replacement) using the skin since the temperatures under the cover will be higher and we know that heat is very bad for Li-ions.

What I'm more concerned about is the electronics. A worn out battery is easy to replace, the heater is warrantied for life (?) and has basically zero problems reported about it, but once the electronics gives up you're in the market for a new vape.

So I see no useful 'reduction in strain' but increased risks to the battery life (no big deal, IMO, it's gonna die anyway and it's easy to change) but I see increase risk to the electronics......a risk easy to avoid.

OF

 

[UnshavenFish]

I got mine yesterday, ordered two, the glass screen was broken on one but it's still functional with the ss screen. I sent them an email,.no response yet. And I didnt get any butter lol

I seem to have difficulty with the water. I know exactly what u mean when u say the water gets trapped on the sides. Happened a few times and stopped bubbling. Accidentally took a big ass dry hit lol. Theres Definitely a learning curve. My issue with filling is that when filling, water gets caught in the mouthpiece instead of flowing down into the bubbler. And u cant blow in cuz it'll get into the bowl lol. Also with the water getting tape and sticking, you can't really get an accurate assessment of whats in there. Been getting water when taking hits lol. Definitely will continue to tinker.

First off my butter was because of the Lily i bought at the same time, it was just being added to the site and i didn't realise you got butter with it so asked for one over phone to be added and they did, so i got two, one with it and a free one (for me its the little things like this that keep me going back for more)
Also bank holiday in the UK will slow e-mail response i guess, but I've always phoned and got an answer within a few rings

Now for me the trapped water stays where it is trapped, so i just ignore this and fill to just under the fill line, the water gets trapped from just above one of the bubble holes to the top of the inner dome, so i hold the trapped water side away from me and angle it at around 45° and it works great, because the water sits above the bubble hole it splits into two bubble streams so i have one closest to me and the split into two furthest from me, the 45°angle works for me better as this keeps the distance from the bubble hole to the top of the water the same so more even bubbling, if i hold it vertical one side bubbles more than the other. This might be hard to follow as i think i got lost myself typing this

I have started using a syringe/plastic needle from a salt water test kit to fill mine as i can get it right inside to fill it (avoiding water in the top piece/mp) can also be used to empty and store the water if needed.
If you look closely at the mp the inside of the tube narrows when it gets to the bottom, this it why water gets stuck here, also IMO will help to keep water coming back up and in your mouth.

The trap at the top retains the right amount of water, everything else flows out. Takes a few seconds, works great.

I'd hope they tuned the trap for this (as anti spill), but if not simply adjust a bit.

Would be nice if they thought of that but no, i think it could be because of the size difference, holding mine upside down when at my fill level the water covers half of the trap, from what i can tell from pics the DHgate bubbler is fatter/wider so will hold more water but they seem the same length so half way to me seems to make sense.

Curious...

I know there has been several people complaining/commenting about the plastic/rubber heater cover not staying on...

Are these people with the Air that does NOT have the battery indicator? Im wondering if they fixed the issue from earlier models because mine is on there great. I can pick the Air up by the heater cover and shake it around a little and it still not coming off....

I wanted to take it off for a second just a bit ago, but it feels like id have to rip/break the rubber piece off to get it off.

My oven cover is still on also and seems quite sturdy, i don't baby it and if it does come off one day then meh i wont loose any sleep, could just be something as simple as when put together some loose some of the shape that holds it in place so come off easier than others.

Sort of. I'm not worried about any sort of strain on the heater (in fact there's more with the cover since the average temperature is higher, that is the hottest part is the same temperature but everything else is hotter). And I'm not worried about the battery from a power standpoint, it's well within ratings and we're only going get slightly longer battery life with the cover in terms of time between recharges but we'll also shorten the battery's lifespan (in terms of needing replacement) using the skin since the temperatures under the cover will be higher and we know that heat is very bad for Li-ions.

What I'm more concerned about is the electronics. A worn out battery is easy to replace, the heater is warrantied for life (?) and has basically zero problems reported about it, but once the electronics gives up you're in the market for a new vape.

So I see no useful 'reduction in strain' but increased risks to the battery life (no big deal, IMO, it's gonna die anyway and it's easy to change) but I see increase risk to the electronics......a risk easy to avoid.

OF

I have to agree heat for any electronics is in most cases a bad thing, think about things around your home, tv's, pc/laptops, games consoles all of these things have vents/fans and carry warnings not to cover/block them for this very reason, i could be wrong here but i think xbox 360's had issues with heat on the electronics even with vents and fans, causing then to fail.

IMO the only time the sleeve could be of use is if outdoors in wind/cold temps to compensate for those losses and keep things a little more 'normal' or if cut just above the button/charger port so it keeps the vents clear and used as grip/protection.

 

[OF]

Would be nice if they thought of that but no, i think it could be because of the size difference, holding mine upside down when at my fill level the water covers half of the trap, from what i can tell from pics the DHgate bubbler is fatter/wider so will hold more water but they seem the same length so half way to me seems to make sense.

That's a bummer, too bad they didn't think that part through? Sounds to me like the tube in the trap is too long (by 100%)? If they'd, instead, made it just long enough to retain the proper charge, it'd be just long enough to retain the proper charge (you'd have no trouble with overfilling as it's impossible inverted).

And no, the diameter doesn't have anything to do with it, really, if you think about it. A larger tube needs more water to fill it to the same depth, but it's bigger in diameter so it contains more water at the same depth. It's the depth (therefore the length of the upper trap) that counts.

Looked at another way, there are two traps, one lower one upper. The lower one is set lower than the high one.

IMO this oversight is a big deal, I can easily flush mine out any time I want. Nice feature, IMO, and free to put in place.

OF

 

[shawn0223]

First off my butter was because of the Lily i bought at the same time, it was just being added to the site and i didn't realise you got butter with it so asked for one over phone to be added and they did, so i got two, one with it and a free one (for me its the little things like this that keep me going back for more)
Also bank holiday in the UK will slow e-mail response i guess, but I've always phoned and got an answer within a few rings

Now for me the trapped water stays where it is trapped, so i just ignore this and fill to just under the fill line, the water gets trapped from just above one of the bubble holes to the top of the inner dome, so i hold the trapped water side away from me and angle it at around 45° and it works great, because the water sits above the bubble hole it splits into two bubble streams so i have one closest to me and the split into two furthest from me, the 45°angle works for me better as this keeps the distance from the bubble hole to the top of the water the same so more even bubbling, if i hold it vertical one side bubbles more than the other. This might be hard to follow as i think i got lost myself typing this

I have started using a syringe/plastic needle from a salt water test kit to fill mine as i can get it right inside to fill it (avoiding water in the top piece/mp) can also be used to empty and store the water if needed.
If you look closely at the mp the inside of the tube narrows when it gets to the bottom, this it why water gets stuck here, also IMO will help to keep water coming back up and in your mouth.



Would be nice if they thought of that but no, i think it could be because of the size difference, holding mine upside down when at my fill level the water covers half of the trap, from what i can tell from pics the DHgate bubbler is fatter/wider so will hold more water but they seem the same length so half way to me seems to make sense.



My oven cover is still on also and seems quite sturdy, i don't baby it and if it does come off one day then meh i wont loose any sleep, could just be something as simple as when put together some loose some of the shape that holds it in place so come off easier than others.



I have to agree heat for any electronics is in most cases a bad thing, think about things around your home, tv's, pc/laptops, games consoles all of these things have vents/fans and carry warnings not to cover/block them for this very reason, i could be wrong here but i think xbox 360's had issues with heat on the electronics even with vents and fans, causing then to fail.

IMO the only time the sleeve could be of use is if outdoors in wind/cold temps to compensate for those losses and keep things a little more 'normal' or if cut just above the button/charger port so it keeps the vents clear and used as grip/protection.

Yeah it seems like it depends on where the water gets trapped. I've been able get it working again after it gets trapped by tilting, shaking and whatnot but it's still an annoyance lol. Seems too be getting easier lol. Might have to look into the syringe or funnel @Carl Hempel was taking about. Sounds like it'll make things simpler. Lol

@OF in regards to filling from the bottom, It would be a pain in the ass to do that because theres another enclosed area or bowl between where the bud sits and where the water sits. I believe they did that part intentionally to catch any overflow in case some stupid customer fills too much and it bubbles out into the vaporizor. Could be wrong though lol. Id show u a pic so you'd understand but I don't have the stem on me atm.

I had emailed vapefiend in regards to the broken stem I got and asked them about filling and whatnot and I just got a response back. Long story short, I got another on the way. Below is the reply I got from them.

"Hi Shawn,

Thanks for the pics and your reply. Sorry about this- you do have one with a manufacturing defect. I am sending you a replacement bubbler mouthpiece today.

It is indeed tricky to fill the bubbler mouthpiece. Here’s my advice: Fill the mouthpiece with water before adding herb or attaching it to the vaporizer. Then hit it a couple of times (still without the herb or the vaporizer) to get the water level to settle. If you are getting water in your mouth, you have over-filled it, so experiment with less water. Water does sometimes collect in the bottom section, this is usually also due to over-filling. You can shake this out and use paper towels to soak it up from the bottom.

Hopefully this will help you get the hang of it, let me know if I can help further.

All the best

Vapefiend"

That part about draining from the bottom can be a bitch if water is caught in the middle bowl imo.

Also in regards to the sleeve and overheating, my air has issues keeping up with the high efficiency stems so just last week I put on the sleeve to help compensate, I have yet to have any issues besides not being able to charge and vape due to all the heat. You guys kind of have me considering taking it off with all this talk of dying electronics lol. Maybe I'll cut a few vents into it so it's not as hot or something.

 

[WoodVillain]

1. Roll a RAW organic hemp paper (or similar) into a hollow tube.
2. Slide paper tube down PVHES or similar longer stem.
3. Keep it in there until paper looks saturated.
4. Remove paper and then use paper as normal.

A bit sticky but taste excellent I seriously doubt im the first to do this though...

 

[OF]

@OF in regards to filling from the bottom, It would be a pain in the ass to do that because theres another enclosed area or bowl between where the bud sits and where the water sits. I believe they did that part intentionally to catch any overflow in case some stupid customer fills too much and it bubbles out into the vaporizor.

Thanks. This one has the same deal (of course). The thing you're not thinking of is when you flood the unit that area drains down too if it's upside down. The trap is stripped by the vacuum of draining the main chamber down. There is some 'on the outside' of the lower lock, of course, but that drains out the bottom in the normal manner when you put it upright. Think about the no spill feature. Properly set up it will intentionally spill an over fill, until it comes down to the useful range?

It's really immaterial I think, as it sounds like the top trap is not set to the 'correct' level to self regulate. Unfortunately (because the scheme does work). It's also unfortunate since as long as it's such a big deal to set the level, guys won't be keeping the water as fresh?

Thanks.

OF

 

[Mangos]

Yeah it seems like it depends on where the water gets trapped. I've been able get it working again after it gets trapped by tilting, shaking and whatnot but it's still an annoyance lol. Seems too be getting easier lol. Might have to look into the syringe or funnel @Carl Hempel was taking about. Sounds like it'll make things simpler. Lol

@OF in regards to filling from the bottom, It would be a pain in the ass to do that because theres another enclosed area or bowl between where the bud sits and where the water sits. I believe they did that part intentionally to catch any overflow in case some stupid customer fills too much and it bubbles out into the vaporizor. Could be wrong though lol. Id show u a pic so you'd understand but I don't have the stem on me atm.

I had emailed vapefiend in regards to the broken stem I got and asked them about filling and whatnot and I just got a response back. Long story short, I got another on the way. Below is the reply I got from them.

"Hi Shawn,

Thanks for the pics and your reply. Sorry about this- you do have one with a manufacturing defect. I am sending you a replacement bubbler mouthpiece today.

It is indeed tricky to fill the bubbler mouthpiece. Here’s my advice: Fill the mouthpiece with water before adding herb or attaching it to the vaporizer. Then hit it a couple of times (still without the herb or the vaporizer) to get the water level to settle. If you are getting water in your mouth, you have over-filled it, so experiment with less water. Water does sometimes collect in the bottom section, this is usually also due to over-filling. You can shake this out and use paper towels to soak it up from the bottom.

Hopefully this will help you get the hang of it, let me know if I can help further.

All the best

Vapefiend"

That part about draining from the bottom can be a bitch if water is caught in the middle bowl imo.

Also in regards to the sleeve and overheating, my air has issues keeping up with the high efficiency stems so just last week I put on the sleeve to help compensate, I have yet to have any issues besides not being able to charge and vape due to all the heat. You guys kind of have me considering taking it off with all this talk of dying electronics lol. Maybe I'll cut a few vents into it so it's not as hot or something.

Thanks for posting, will help when I have to fill up my bubbler. Always loved Vapefiend's customer service. Does the High efficiency stem allow you to draw at a more forgiving rate ? At the moment with the stock stems , I have to do slow soft long inhales for good results, will the high efficiency mouthpiece allow me to draw more freely ?

 

[shawn0223]

Thanks. This one has the same deal (of course). The thing you're not thinking of is when you flood the unit that area drains down too if it's upside down. The trap is stripped by the vacuum of draining the main chamber down. There is some 'on the outside' of the lower lock, of course, but that drains out the bottom in the normal manner when you put it upright. Think about the no spill feature. Properly set up it will intentionally spill an over fill, until it comes down to the useful range?

It's really immaterial I think, as it sounds like the top trap is not set to the 'correct' level to self regulate. Unfortunately (because the scheme does work). It's also unfortunate since as long as it's such a big deal to set the level, guys won't be keeping the water as fresh?

Thanks.

OF

You are correct, totally didn't think of that. I'm bout clean it and refill. Will try from the bottom this time and see whats up.

Thanks for posting, will help when I have to fill up my bubbler. Always loved Vapefiend's customer service. Does the High efficiency stem allow you to draw at a more forgiving rate ? At the moment with the stock stems , I have to do slow soft long inhales for good results, will the high efficiency mouthpiece allow me to draw more freely ?

Anytime man. Glad I was of some help lol. No where on the the level of @OF 's helpfulness yet lmao. I enjoy reading all ur posts man lol.

In regards to high efficiency stems, yes they do let you draw more freely as theres more airflow and less restriction. The vapefiend bubbler comes like the PVHES with the slits in the bowl and down the stem. From my experience, it does allow easy flow but I had to kinda train myself to hit it right. Because of the increased airflow, it seemed like if I pulled too much it was whispy but if regulate and control how fast/ hard I'm drawing, the stem hits like a champ. Seems like this stem, just as with any new toy, there's a learning curve

 

[Bandoo]

Thinking of getting a AA to go with my Pax1 and MFLB. Nice design, can change batteries!
But I'm pretty sensitive to any chem tastes at all from vapes.
Used to have a Solo but couldn't personally get rid of the faint plastic/rubbery taste, I think from the heated stem holding o-ring above the oven maybe.
Is the new AA completely free from this after a few good burn ins?
I think there are additional o-rings in the AA.
Maybe they changed the material?
I tried a friends a little and it seemed fine but I didn't get a lot of time with it.
Any other 'sensitives' using it ok?
Wanted to ask before pulling the trigger.
Thanks a lot.

 

[vapen00b]

Hey Bandoo,

Id call myself a sensitive- had an Ascent that almost killed anything due to that plastic flavor. The AA is perfect. You don't need additional o-rings... At least I never heard of that for the air.
Go for it and join the club!

 

[bluenavey00]

Thinking of getting a AA to go with my Pax1 and MFLB. Nice design, can change batteries!
But I'm pretty sensitive to any chem tastes at all from vapes.
Used to have a Solo but couldn't personally get rid of the faint plastic/rubbery taste, I think from the heated stem holding o-ring above the oven maybe.
Is the new AA completely free from this after a few good burn ins?
I think there are additional o-rings in the AA.
Maybe they changed the material?
I tried a friends a little and it seemed fine but I didn't get a lot of time with it.
Any other 'sensitives' using it ok?
Wanted to ask before pulling the trigger.
Thanks a lot.

First of all get an AA you won't regret it! Quite different to your other vapes so you will get a different experience.

In my opinion you can't taste anything other than sweet sweet herb with the Air.

Also I'm not entirely sure it's possible to get any bad flavour from the O rings. The O rings sit right at the top of the unit, whereas the glass pushes inside a few CM past them. When you inhale, some airflow is probably coming in though the top of the unit past the O rings but it can't be much.

I have been following this thread for a few months now and read back to the start and can't remember anyone mentioning taste problem. Someone correct me if I am wrong. So I think you are good to go

Enjoy

 

[OF]

But I'm pretty sensitive to any chem tastes at all from vapes.
Used to have a Solo but couldn't personally get rid of the faint plastic/rubbery taste, I think from the heated stem holding o-ring above the oven maybe.
Is the new AA completely free from this after a few good burn ins?

First of all get an AA you won't regret it! Quite different to your other vapes so you will get a different experience.

I disagree with that. IMO Air and Solo (which the OP objected to) are very very similar. I'd challenge anyone to pick one from the other blindfolded.

Regarding the OP's question, this is a very subjective area. IMO very few owners find fault with Solo "faint plastic/rubbery taste". Given the same material as the seal in Solo is used in Ari I suspect the same problem could carry over? More over, the seal is now much larger in bulk and contacts the stem 3 times not the once in Solo. And it's now closer the cup and under the heat shield. That's it, in the center of the right side:

It screws on the white part at 6 o'clock and has the heat shield (to the left of the main body) over it. Below it, you'll notice another 'ring like thing', sort of a black plastic washer? That's an additional seal, softer, and a new material that itself might present an issue to those very sensitive? It snaps on top of the seal above it and rests against the heat shield so it too gets quite hot and may contribute to the problem.

FWIW my opinion is there is not significant smell/taste issue with Air, but temper that with the understanding I would say the same about Solo. I found no issue there, either.

For the record, there are no o-rings in either vape. Some guys add them to Solo, but neither Air nor Solo come from the factory with one.

Tough call, like buying eye glasses for a friend. But IMO if you had issues with Solo (which is, I think, quite rare) there's probably an even bigger risk with Air. More of the same materials known to be a problem seem involved as well as a new one.

Your call, of course. Good luck with it.

OF

 

[bluenavey00]

I disagree with that. IMO Air and Solo (which the OP objected to) are very very similar. I'd challenge anyone to pick one from the other blindfolded.

Regarding the OP's question, this is a very subjective area. IMO very few owners find fault with Solo "faint plastic/rubbery taste". Given the same material as the seal in Solo is used in Ari I suspect the same problem could carry over? More over, the seal is now much larger in bulk and contacts the stem 3 times not the once in Solo. And it's now closer the cup and under the heat shield. That's it, in the center of the right side:

It screws on the white part at 6 o'clock and has the heat shield (to the left of the main body) over it. Below it, you'll notice another 'ring like thing', sort of a black plastic washer? That's an additional seal, softer, and a new material that itself might present an issue to those very sensitive? It snaps on top of the seal above it and rests against the heat shield so it too gets quite hot and may contribute to the problem.

FWIW my opinion is there is not significant smell/taste issue with Air, but temper that with the understanding I would say the same about Solo. I found no issue there, either.

For the record, there are no o-rings in either vape. Some guys add them to Solo, but neither Air nor Solo come from the factory with one.

Tough call, like buying eye glasses for a friend. But IMO if you had issues with Solo (which is, I think, quite rare) there's probably an even bigger risk with Air. More of the same materials known to be a problem seem involved as well as a new one.

Your call, of course. Good luck with it.

OF

When I said different I meant different to the vapes the OP already has, the MFLB and the pax1.

In terms of you saying neither vape contain O rings don't most people refer to the rubber bits that grip the stem as O rings?

Is there any downsides to taking the vape apart like yours? Any unnecessary stress or possibility of damaging anything?

Thanks

 

[vapen00b]

When I said different I meant different to the vapes the OP already has, the MFLB and the pax1.

In terms of you saying neither vape contain O rings don't most people refer to the rubber bits that grip the stem as O rings?

Yeah, I think its a misunderstanding..? I got both of it like you explained now - or in other words: thought the same