The Angus Halogen Vape by YLL Vape

floribud

Well-Known Member
@floribud Disassemble while warm if already gunked. Will make the first time easier.
Yes I first tried while it was warm, but it was so jammed in there that I thought I was going to break something. Eventually I got it to lift out using a pair of bent nose jewelry pliers.

After cleaning it I put it back in with some Dynawax. I remembered that I put either Dyna or Burts Bees Wax around the edge of my Mighty cooling chamber. Hopefully that will help

Also @Zuhdj mine also powers down if I set it down with a little bump on a hard counter top
 

Zow237

Well-Known Member
Yes I first tried while it was warm, but it was so jammed in there that I thought I was going to break something. Eventually I got it to lift out using a pair of bent nose jewelry pliers.

After cleaning it I put it back in with some Dynawax. I remembered that I put either Dyna or Burts Bees Wax around the edge of my Mighty cooling chamber. Hopefully that will help

Also @Zuhdj mine also powers down if I set it down with a little bump on a hard counter top
use the tweezers upside down under the notches that show if its locked or unlocked. and wiggle it off. Yllvape has a video on instagram demonstrating this
 
Zow237,
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sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
Two quick questions for Angus users.

1. Is it worthwhile to open the cap before the first use? just to loosen?

2. How many sessions per battery swap?
 
sickmanfraud,

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
Two quick questions for Angus users.

1. Is it worthwhile to open the cap before the first use? just to loosen?

2. How many sessions per battery swap?
If you mean the cooling unit, I always clean my vapes before first use for good measure.

I had 4 sessions tonight on a pair of Molicel 26A's and when I put the cells on my charger they were reading 34%. Yesterday I had 5 sessions and my batteries went from 96% to 0%.
 

bm96

Well-Known Member
➡️⚠️ As of last night, YLLVAPE has stated they will be updating the manual with new instructions for cleaning. Do NOT use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean your cooling unit (even 91%). There was someone on discord who soaked it for a few minutes, and it discolored to a white color. This has happened on other vapes as well such as the Mighty (though this is the 1st time ever seeing it from the Mighty). I've attached pictures of both the Angus discoloration, and similar Mighty discoloration.

The CU isn't made of PEEK plastic like the other plastic components. This discoloration could possibly affect the chemical structure and longevity of the plastic.



 
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Apparently we can remove the 4 torx screws on the top plate to get access to the red oring at the top of the chamber.
I removed mine last night for a cleaning.

The black oring around the peek needs to be removed for plate to come off, and then the the peek section just lifts out with the red oring housed underneath it.

I read it on Discord (amongst other things). Troy asked if it was possible to remove and the manufacturer confirmed it.



2 of the holes had metal washers on top and 2 didn't. 1 of the 2 washers wasn't lined up with the hole and looks like it was just squashed between the top plate and wood.



I forgot to take a picture of the removed peek section.
 

Grover

Well-Known Member
Retailer
➡️⚠️ As of last night, YLLVAPE has stated they will be updating the manual with new instructions for cleaning. Do NOT use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean your cooling unit (even 91%). There was someone on discord who soaked it for a few minutes, and it discolored to a white color. This has happened on other vapes as well such as the Mighty (though this is the 1st time ever seeing it from the Mighty). I've attached pictures of both the Angus discoloration, and similar Mighty discoloration.
I recently sent a replacement CU to my only customer who had this happen, I suggest that this is an isolated/rare occurance. There have been no reports of anything like this from any of the beta testers, AFAIK...a lot of people have already been cleaning their CU's with iso to date with no ill effects. My customer went back to using the original CU in rotation as a viable spare. Personally, I will be using 70% iso for cleaning my Angus just to be on the safe side...just b/c the damage is unlikely and cosmetic does not mean that I want it happening with my Angus. BTW, the use of the word 'possibly' in a sentence make what follows pure conjecture...anything is 'possible'.
 
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floribud

Well-Known Member
➡️⚠️ As of last night, YLLVAPE has stated they will be updating the manual with new instructions for cleaning. Do NOT use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean your cooling unit (even 91%). There was someone on discord who soaked it for a few minutes, and it discolored to a white color. This has happened on other vapes as well such as the Mighty (though this is the 1st time ever seeing it from the Mighty). I've attached pictures of both the Angus discoloration, and similar Mighty discoloration.

The CU isn't made of PEEK plastic like the other plastic components. This discoloration could possibly affect the chemical structure and longevity of the plastic.


I have the same discoloration now. I cleaned mine yesterday with ISO, but I didn't soak it. I used 99.999% anhydrous ISO out of a spray bottle and then wiped the unit with a towel, then I sprayed it again and rinsed under hot water. The bottom of my CU not looks like the one in @bm96's picture.

Here is my what my unit looks like after cleaning. I probably did 2 sessions after cleaning. But I noticed as soon as I sprayed the ISO the thing in the middle started turning white


Two quick questions for Angus users.

1. Is it worthwhile to open the cap before the first use? just to loosen?

2. How many sessions per battery swap?

I didn't clean mine first and it was nearly impossible to open... and yes I watched the video on how to open it. I had to use much stronger pliers. The included tweezer we too thin and slipped straight UP whenever I tried to lift the CU. That's why I suggested Dynawax or bees wax on the o-ring when you reassemble it.

I got 9 sessions with some P28s... they were fully charged had been sitting in a drawer for about a month.
 
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
@bm96
I remember the same thing happening on my Tera V3 with the white discoloration around the bowl.

I try to play it safe with ISO and plastic as I always use 99% ISO. With my initial cleaning, the plastic parts had maybe 30 seconds max exposure before I rinsed and dried them but I'll dilute my ISO a bit next time. I haven't even looked at my cooling unit since I first cleaned it but I'll inspect for discoloration this evening.

@Zuhdj @floribud
I can get mine to shut off as well when "setting" it down but I need to use more force then I would ever normally use and it has to be set down vertically. If I apply the same level of force on its side it stays on. My guess is that the spring loaded battery terminals are disengaging when it's "slammed" down.
 

Pukka

Well-Known Member
Generally ISO (99%) only gets used on metal and glass. For plastic/rubber/silicon parts I use unscented dish soap and hellishly hot water with q-tips/ear buds to clean and the same water to rinse. A short dip in undiluted white vinegar and a final hot water wash and then drip dry.

To be honest, hellishly hot water cleans a lot better than a lot of people think. If you haven't developed heat-proof hands wear gloves 😎
 

Grover

Well-Known Member
Retailer
Generally ISO (99%) only gets used on metal and glass. For plastic/rubber/silicon parts I use unscented dish soap and hellishly hot water with q-tips/ear buds to clean and the same water to rinse. A short dip in undiluted white vinegar and a final hot water wash and then drip dry.

To be honest, hellishly hot water cleans a lot better than a lot of people think. If you haven't developed heat-proof hands wear gloves 😎
I'm going to try this...thanks for the tip...saving the environment, one vape at a time!
 

BingsBuddery

Derelict Meatsack
Back in the day, we knew not to use 99% ISO on acrylic bongs because they'd essentially fall apart. The discolouration is no surprise to me, 99% ISO is a concentrated solvent, and I have seen it strip colour from all kinds of plastics and surfaces over the years. I'd opt to submerge the CU in boiling water for 10 mins, that will get 99% of the gunk out without the use of an abrasive solvent.
 

bm96

Well-Known Member
Back in the day, we knew not to use 99% ISO on acrylic bongs because they'd essentially fall apart. The discolouration is no surprise to me, 99% ISO is a concentrated solvent, and I have seen it strip colour from all kinds of plastics and surfaces over the years. I'd opt to submerge the CU in boiling water for 10 mins, that will get 99% of the gunk out without the use of an abrasive solvent.
Yeah, that one user only used 91% though so even the weaker counterpart can cause this. I guess only time will tell if that discoloration, on a chemical level, changes the structure of the plastic and makes it weaker or more susceptible to future cracks. Just speculation. It seems YLLVAPE will be replacing the cooling unit very soon and hopefully sending them out to each and everyone who purchased one. I'm glad I let the hype cool off and settle to see what floated to the surface.
 

davesmith

Well-Known Member
Glass Blower
Ive just been sent this on IG by a friend. Havent looked into the source etc but thought id share here, please take with a pinch of salt till we know more.


F8-AF0-E27-D68-E-46-F0-B78-A-D29-CFE9-C19-F1.png


I dont own an angus but have had my finger on the trigger since the release. Just got a second hand TM1 to hold off the vas but i need a new session portable for watching telly with. My crafty is tired and old…..
 

Grover

Well-Known Member
Retailer
Ive just been sent this on IG by a friend. Havent looked into the source etc but thought id share here, please take with a pinch of salt till we know more.


F8-AF0-E27-D68-E-46-F0-B78-A-D29-CFE9-C19-F1.png


I dont own an angus but have had my finger on the trigger since the release. Just got a second hand TM1 to hold off the vas but i need a new session portable for watching telly with. My crafty is tired and old…..
Sounds to me like someone making a mountain out of a molehill...someone with something to gain from throwing shadow on the Angus...someone who doesn't own the vape and has a habit of talking out of their ass. The bleaching of plastic vape parts with high-power Iso is not an unknown phenomenon: I have photos of an Fury 2 and a Mighty with the same issue but I can't seem to get the Imgur link to load into this post. My apologies for my FC noobishness.
 

Abele Rizieri Ferrari

Well-Known Member
Sounds to me like someone making a mountain out of a molehill...someone with something to gain from throwing shadow on the Angus...someone who doesn't own the vape and has a habit of talking out of their ass. The bleaching of plastic vape parts with high-power Iso is not an unknown phenomenon: I have photos of an Fury 2 and a Mighty with the same issue but I can't seem to get the Imgur link to load into this post. My apologies for my FC noobishness.

This doesn't look bleached though?
 

davesmith

Well-Known Member
Glass Blower
Those of us whove been hanging around a while remember the issues with the crafty/mighty plastic not being able to hold the heat and cracking round the bowl and CU. Storz n bickle are huge company with decades of experience and their first portables were both massively flawed. Just look at them now though, industry leaders more or less.

Im suprised to see the unit melted though?
The language used also triggers alarm bells. Could there be people trying to discredit this manufacturer? Rivals maybe?

Im sure if CUs are melting we will hear a lot about it very soon.
 

Abele Rizieri Ferrari

Well-Known Member
Those of us whove been hanging around a while remember the issues with the crafty/mighty plastic not being able to hold the heat and cracking round the bowl and CU. Storz n bickle are huge company with decades of experience and their first portables were both massively flawed. Just look at them now though, industry leaders more or less.

Im suprised to see the unit melted though?
The language used also triggers alarm bells. Could there be people trying to discredit this manufacturer? Rivals maybe?

Im sure if CUs are melting we will hear a lot about it very soon.
Since Yllvape doesn't do the retail, the claim about not getting a refund is weird, because I'd imagine that goes through the retailer? (I'm in EU hence consumer right will differ here and there, so not sure.) Honestly the way that thing is destroyed, and the unverifiable claims that are being made, I'm more inclined to think it's some scared competitor than that the thing's legit melting tbh..
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
that IG post seems sus tot me...
what's up with marks in middle there, with small edges like if a round hot tip was pressed in a circular pattern?
herbs were fine but plastic behind them melted? how does this happen? doesn't add up ...
May well have happened but I am also having trouble seeing how a part so far from the heater could possibly melt. We will see ...
 
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