Tetra P80

[GoldenBud]

glad you said that. it's been a while since I've used it with 395F, I use it as a 1 hitter only. so losojos probably didn't use warmup mode at all or so....

EDIT: got me some tetrohydro in the tetrap80, 395F, the taste is unreal, with the bent spiked stem. i got some vapor but not too much, the flavour is unreal.... 410F gives a lot more vapor

 

[gordontreeman]

glad you said that. it's been a while since I've used it with 395F, I use it as a 1 hitter only. so losojos probably didn't use warmup mode at all or so....

EDIT: got me some tetrohydro in the tetrap80, 395F, the taste is unreal, with the bent spiked stem. i got some vapor but not too much, the flavour is unreal.... 410F gives a lot more vapor

I am sure there are lots of factors involved—draw speed and flower quality and such. That’s weird to me though. 395F is not at all what I would consider wispy or thin vapor. In fact, I had a buddy over last night and wanted to show him lower temp hits generally taste better while still getting visible clouds. I went down to 380F and was pleasantly surprised at the size of the clouds we were getting at that temp. It took us a few more hits to finish the bowl, but we were otherwise exhaling substantial amounts of vapor, so I guess it’s surprising that you characterize 395F as not a lot of vapor.

 

[GoldenBud]

I am sure there are lots of factors involved—draw speed and flower quality and such. That’s weird to me though. 395F is not at all what I would consider wispy or thin vapor. In fact, I had a buddy over last night and wanted to show him lower temp hits generally taste better while still getting visible clouds. I went down to 380F and was pleasantly surprised at the size of the clouds we were getting at that temp. It took us a few more hits to finish the bowl, but we were otherwise exhaling substantial amounts of vapor, so I guess it’s surprising that you characterize 395F as not a lot of vapor.

So in my case after using the tetra at 500F a lot of times(concentrates) I need to raise it 0.001 maybe?

 

[Consolidated21]

HI dudes... It doesn't really matter how fast or slow you pull, in a warm P80 to see clouds at 200... it's a matter of resistance... and for me it's also psychological... when I want the peak of 235c . If 200 is like 180 and someone reaches 250 for full extraction you won't see clouds at 200 for sure.

 

[losojos]

glad you said that. it's been a while since I've used it with 395F, I use it as a 1 hitter only. so losojos probably didn't use warmup mode at all or so....

EDIT: got me some tetrohydro in the tetrap80, 395F, the taste is unreal, with the bent spiked stem. i got some vapor but not too much, the flavour is unreal.... 410F gives a lot more vapor

I always use warmup mode when starting cold. I tried setting the resistance back to 0.225 (the engraved resistance), the temp to 405F (~207C), and used warmup mode from cold. I almost always use it dry through a GRAV Upline water pipe (the skinny one). I got a little visible vapor at these settings. I finished the bowl, stepping the temp up to 410F, then 415F, with no noticeable change to the vapor or hits. I also tried using different draw speeds with no change. The experience wasn't unpleasant, just VERY light. The kind of clouds I expect to see around 355F. I have an older P80 that I need to send off for repair but is still usable (the screen covering the coils is loose. I can get it back in place, but any bump pops it off again). It has an engraved resistance of 0.236. With that P80, at 390F, I have to pay attention to my draw speed with some flower so it doesn't combust (just tiny heat pockets). I also get thick white clouds with that one. So, I don't know which experience is more in line with the expected one, but they are very different. I'm trying to get my new one dialed in so I can send the old one off for repair, but maybe the new one needs to go out first?

 

[GoldenBud]

I always use warmup mode when starting cold. I tried setting the resistance back to 0.225 (the engraved resistance), the temp to 405F (~207C), and used warmup mode from cold. I almost always use it dry through a GRAV Upline water pipe (the skinny one). I got a little visible vapor at these settings. I finished the bowl, stepping the temp up to 410F, then 415F, with no noticeable change to the vapor or hits. I also tried using different draw speeds with no change. The experience wasn't unpleasant, just VERY light. The kind of clouds I expect to see around 355F. I have an older P80 that I need to send off for repair but is still usable (the screen covering the coils is loose. I can get it back in place, but any bump pops it off again). It has an engraved resistance of 0.236. With that P80, at 390F, I have to pay attention to my draw speed with some flower so it doesn't combust (just tiny heat pockets). I also get thick white clouds with that one. So, I don't know which experience is more in line with the expected one, but they are very different. I'm trying to get my new one dialed in so I can send the old one off for repair, but maybe the new one needs to go out first?

and when you raise it 0.001 or 0.002 you get good vapor @ around 400F?
70W TCR 185 right?
resistance is LOCKED?
usually he calibrates it well and makes sure the user gets a working device
how it works with temp of 435F?

 

[losojos]

and when you raise it 0.001 or 0.002 you get good vapor @ around 400F?
70W TCR 185 right?
resistance is LOCKED?
usually he calibrates it well and makes sure the user gets a working device
how it works with temp of 435F?

I raised the resistance in 0.002 increments until I got vapor that matched my older unit. I ended up at 0.233 (0.225 is what is engraved).
yes 70W TCR (mine says Turbo here) 185
resistance is locked
I am reluctant to keep increasing the temp to fix this.

To be clear, I am not complaining about the device or the initial calibration. Something is very obviously set incorrectly. I want to fix it. My initial question was about a calibration procedure.

This slipped my mind because it hasn't happened in over a week, but for a while, every time I changed the battery or turned the device on for the first time that day, it would ask if the coil was the same or new.

 

[GoldenBud]

This slipped my mind because it hasn't happened in over a week, but for a while, every time I changed the battery or turned the device on for the first time that day, it would ask if the coil was the same or new.

change 'Check' to NO
the coils slightly slow at 0.234?! with 500F temp dark room
which batteries u use? you can get Molicel cells?

 

[losojos]

change 'Check' to NO
the coils slightly slow at 0.234?! with 500F temp dark room

If you mean to choose "same coil" instead of "new coil," that's what I've been doing.

Or is there a "coil check" option I can turn off?

I think you're talking about the "calibration procedure" I was asking about. So, is the procedure to set the temp to 500F, increase the resistance until you get a slight glow, then back off 0.001?

Also, thank you guys for your assistance. I'm always blown away at how fast this community jumps to help its members out.

 

[GoldenBud]

Or is there a "coil check" option I can turn off?

yeah, 2 lines below the coils resistance. set Check to NO please

I think you're talking about the "calibration procedure" I was asking about. So, is the procedure to set the temp to 500F, increase the resistance until you get a slight glow, then back off 0.001?

yeah, dark room, slightly glow @ 500F then reduce 0.001.. but.. usually he calibrates it well.. so try 0.225 when Check to NO
and.. it maybe.. maybe.. a matter of battery.. is your battery 20A in a fine condition? not too old 1yr+ of usage etc'?

he usually calibrates it well because he doesn't want people to get immediate support.. that's my assumption!

 

[losojos]

yeah, 2 lines below the coils resistance. set Check to NO please

yeah, dark room, slightly glow @ 500F then reduce 0.001.. but.. usually he calibrates it well.. so try 0.225 when Check to NO
and.. it maybe.. maybe.. a matter of battery.. is your battery 20A in a fine condition? not too old 1yr+ of usage etc'?

he usually calibrates it well because he doesn't want people to get immediate support.. that's my assumption!

I have about 8 Molicel P26A batteries in rotation, all less than a year old, always charged in an Opus external charger.

Interesting twist...

I did the dark room procedure on the P80 in question, and already had a slight glow at 500F/0.225.

Then, I did the same on my older unit (at its engraved resistance) and had HEAVY glow. I now have the older one set to 0.227 (slight glow, -0.001)

I'm wondering if my perception has just been off this whole time. Maybe my older unit has just been running hot since day 1 and the new one is spot on. The temps are what threw me. With my other devices, 395F dry usually produces large clouds and is at the upper limit of what is pleasant to my lungs.

I'm going to spend a few days with these settings and see how it goes.

Any other settings I should double check while I'm at it?

 

[GoldenBud]

395F dry usually produces large clouds

I knew you're a high temp guy...hehe.. yeah that's why I use 440F a lot... it's only taste for me at 395F..no you're all set...we checked everything...

 

[losojos]

I knew you're a high temp guy...hehe.. yeah that's why I use 440F a lot... it's only taste for me at 395F..no you're all set...we checked everything...

Again, thank you for all the help. I feel like I have a whole new vape to explore now that my perception has been fixed. And, just in time for Game 1 of the World Series!

 

[Shit Snacks]

There are way too many variables, it's different depending on the load and stems you are using, when I am using sock stems dry, cruising below 400, you can get great vapor, you can do it through water too, if you don't want to heat soak as long with a cruise (or warm up, especially if going to use on demand) you set the temp higher to accommodate, if I have my hit at 445F through water, then I pay attention to the vapor so I know when to stop inhaling because of course it will start to scorch after too long with a good rip... Lower settings are much more forgiving for a longer hit, you can also draw slower, etc... I don't know, all of this seems like a lot of overthinking to me, I would never mess with the resistance of my TP80, like every individual vape, I adjust my expectations based on it and adapt to whatever temperatures in a vacuum

 

[losojos]

There are way too many variables, it's different depending on the load and stems you are using, when I am using sock stems dry, cruising below 400, you can get great vapor, you can do it through water too, if you don't want to heat soak as long with a cruise (or warm up, especially if going to use on demand) you set the temp higher to accommodate, if I have my hit at 445F through water, then I pay attention to the vapor so I know when to stop inhaling because of course it will start to scorch after too long with a good rip... Lower settings are much more forgiving for a longer hit, you can also draw slower, etc... I don't know, all of this seems like a lot of overthinking to me, I would never mess with the resistance of my TP80, like every individual vape, I adjust my expectations based on it and adapt to whatever temperatures in a vacuum

I agree with everything you're saying. I never wanted to mess around with settings like resistance. However, the night and day difference between my two P80s at the same temps meant that something was wrong. For some reason, I just assumed that the colder running unit was the one with the issues. I guess because the other was the one I knew?

 

[Shit Snacks]

I agree with everything you're saying. I never wanted to mess around with settings like resistance. However, the night and day difference between my two P80s at the same temps meant that something was wrong. For some reason, I just assumed that the colder running unit was the one with the issues. I guess because the other was the one I knew?

Haha yeah it really depends on your frame of reference, I have had many of these devices now, and my expectations between them mostly holds, although there might be some slight variance it is pretty negligible to me considering all of these variables honestly... I could try to do back-to-back to back with my three TP80 (one is from the original batch drop, so you'd think it would be the most different, been a while since I've used it! I am always using my latest blue orange dyed box elder burl now as the latest and greatest, my previous custom acrylic was probably close to it, though there is a lot that feels different between them, aside from poplar plywood)

 

[GoldenBud]

Haha yeah it really depends on your frame of reference, I have had many of these devices now, and my expectations between them mostly holds, although there might be some slight variance it is pretty negligible to me considering all of these variables honestly... I could try to do back-to-back to back with my three TP80 (one is from the original batch drop, so you'd think it would be the most different, been a while since I've used it! I am always using my latest blue orange dyed box elder burl now as the latest and greatest, my previous custom acrylic was probably close to it, though there is a lot that feels different between them, aside from poplar plywood)

I just realized that TP80 is still using a power of 70W MAX, and it has 33.33% more wide-open airflow than the TUBO... so if we look at the equation Q=m(dot)*cp*dt the Q is the same as TUBO, m(dot) is bigger, 4 coils, cp is the same ss316 coils, so the temperature must be higher if you want to achieve the same performance (but more uniform i think) than the TUBO!

the resistance is not the problem if you get a device freshly new from lamart probably, just use higher temp first, i tried 430F in my TP80 as I got it and it didn't hit the spot as the TUBO did!

 

[Shit Snacks]

I just realized that TP80 is still using a power of 70W MAX, and it has 33.33% more wide-open airflow than the TUBO... so if we look at the equation Q=m(dot)*cp*dt the Q is the same as TUBO, m(dot) is bigger, 4 coils, cp is the same ss316 coils, so the temperature must be higher if you want to achieve the same performance (but more uniform i think) than the TUBO!

the resistance is not the problem if you get a device freshly new from lamart probably, just use higher temp first, i tried 430F in my TP80 as I got it and it didn't hit the spot as the TUBO did!

That actually does make sense, I do use higher temps than I used to use in the tubo (although I used to use tubo with plain long bent stem dry too) the 70 watts do seem to match the tetra heater better and you get such even extraction! Low temps still useful too, need warm up or heat soak, potentially long slow draw, as supposed to high temps that can allow for faster short quick rips...

 

[TeaCup]

Can anyone tell me how high a temp I can run this at and still be safe. I just got an RBT stem and that combo is far and away too unrestrictive for me to squeak out any kind of a hit. Packed as many cooling beads in as I could, but I still like to feel a little something on the back of my throat and the only way to do that was for me to use 460 degrees. I'd like another 4 to 6 degrees if possible too. Is 460-465 still Ok?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Can anyone tell me how high a temp I can run this at and still be safe. I just got an RBT stem and that combo is far and away too unrestrictive for me to squeak out any kind of a hit. Packed as many cooling beads in as I could, but I still like to feel a little something on the back of my throat and the only way to do that was for me to use 460 degrees. I'd like another 4 to 6 degrees if possible too. Is 460-465 still Ok?

We can't really answer that for you, you're going to have to find out for yourself, the variables are unique to you... Good luck!

 

[TeaCup]

you're going to have to find out for yourself

Ha ha, not sure I like that, lol. Concentrates need higher temps I think, right? Maybe someone who does them in theirs can say what they've used it up to. I "think" 460 would be Ok, but when I turned it up to 470 it just looked eerie seeing that number and I just couldn't do it!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Ha ha, not sure I like that, lol. Concentrates need higher temps I think, right? Maybe someone who does them in theirs can say what they've used it up to. I "think" 460 would be Ok, but when I turned it up to 470 it just looked eerie seeing that number and I just couldn't do it!

Yeah concentrates need higher, that's why I don't like to mix them with herbs, but like we've been saying the temperature can be pretty relative here depending on so many variables... For example when I use very high temps, I draw very fast, and I make sure not to take too long of a hit, its a bit of a dance! There is a line where you might not want to risk, but you could try using the 5° increments instead of by 10?

 

[GoldenBud]

Is 460-465 still Ok?

I used 500F with dabs, after long dab/iceolator session it gave me "device too hot"
and I understand people want to be careful with the P80
I'd say don't go over 480F but it can be working like a dream roller coaster dabbin convection tool at 500F fast draw too if needed (preheat well)
the problems with the P80 comes when somebody plays with his resistance...

 

[losojos]

I used 500F with dabs, after long dab/iceolator session it gave me "device too hot"
and I understand people want to be careful with the P80
I'd say don't go over 480F but it can be working like a dream roller coaster dabbin convection tool at 500F fast draw too if needed (preheat well)
the problems with the P80 comes when somebody plays with his resistance...

In my defense, adjusting the resistance is the troubleshooting method documented in the manual.

 

[GoldenBud]

In my defense, adjusting the resistance is the troubleshooting method documented in the manual.

ahh brother I forgot your case already! I'm talking about me, it happend to me! i didn't understand wth is wrong with my Tetra @ 220C not bringing the same clouds as the Tubo... i raised it +0.001 and then i figured I should have used higher temp because it's still a 70W vape but now there are 4 coils...

so if it happend to me, think how much people raised it +0.001 and kept it on, although they should have used an higher temp...
our mind thinks like if it's the "Tubo 2" we should reduce the temp, the opposite is right in this case