@bossman Hahaha, I’ve own my z for a while now and I remember it hitting great the first Like 4 month or so and after I’m not sure what I did or maybe I over heated if but I have not been able to find a sweet consistent spot I keep hitting and missing. That’s why I decided to start from scratch and change mod and start over with the tcr value.
Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
- Status
entirely_foreign
Well-Known Member
Hey all. Had the Z for a few months now, along with the lost vape drone. Got the DNA250c since it's supposed to be better than sliced bread when it comes to 510 vaping. I'm still pretty unfamiliar with dna, so I'm gonna lay out the situation and what I want and hopefully somebody can help me.
I have a wismec rx 2/3 mod that I used to run the v1 and zv2 on. Had TCR figured out, tubomyevic firmware installed, cruised in TC all the time. Had some 510 pin issues with that mod, got the drone, and sold the v1. Downloaded herbie's fcshare file onto the drone (btw that page is gone now and they haven't posted in a while? hoping everything is ok), got everything updated, went to TC at 370 and got no vapor. Looked at resistance reading and it's showing .41 ohms, compared to .46 that I was getting on the rx 2/3. Looked around the software, re-measured cold a bunch of times, looks like I did everything right. So I went back to wattage for a while, and have been pretty happy. Now I'm tinkering again, and would like to figure out this DNA situation. Last night I tried increasing the resistance to .45 to closer match the reading on rx 2/3. Yes, I know DNA is supposed to be more accurate, but if I'm getting no vapor at 370F, bumping resistance is supposed to fix that. Got a temp protection warning and mod wouldn't fire. Re-measured ohms, back to .41. Instead bumped wattage to 55W and temp to 430. Around 430F is about what I would expect at 380F, getting light medium brown abv and decent vapor production. Got close to combustion around 470F with the Z very warmed up.
My questions: Am I doing anything wrong? Should DNA mods produce vapor at normal temp ranges using herbie's fcshare file? Or should I be bumping temp? Should I be messing with ohms or trust DNA? Any way to cruise? Overall, which knobs should I be fiddling with first to tune performance?
I have a wismec rx 2/3 mod that I used to run the v1 and zv2 on. Had TCR figured out, tubomyevic firmware installed, cruised in TC all the time. Had some 510 pin issues with that mod, got the drone, and sold the v1. Downloaded herbie's fcshare file onto the drone (btw that page is gone now and they haven't posted in a while? hoping everything is ok), got everything updated, went to TC at 370 and got no vapor. Looked at resistance reading and it's showing .41 ohms, compared to .46 that I was getting on the rx 2/3. Looked around the software, re-measured cold a bunch of times, looks like I did everything right. So I went back to wattage for a while, and have been pretty happy. Now I'm tinkering again, and would like to figure out this DNA situation. Last night I tried increasing the resistance to .45 to closer match the reading on rx 2/3. Yes, I know DNA is supposed to be more accurate, but if I'm getting no vapor at 370F, bumping resistance is supposed to fix that. Got a temp protection warning and mod wouldn't fire. Re-measured ohms, back to .41. Instead bumped wattage to 55W and temp to 430. Around 430F is about what I would expect at 380F, getting light medium brown abv and decent vapor production. Got close to combustion around 470F with the Z very warmed up.
My questions: Am I doing anything wrong? Should DNA mods produce vapor at normal temp ranges using herbie's fcshare file? Or should I be bumping temp? Should I be messing with ohms or trust DNA? Any way to cruise? Overall, which knobs should I be fiddling with first to tune performance?
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I don't know why you would be touching resistance at all, for temp control you should be locking the cold resistance and then only adjusting TCR value or using a profile...
entirely_foreign
Well-Known Member
No TCR values in dna and profile wasn't doing what I thought it was gonna do.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
That’s my only complaint with all my DNA based mods, you can’t directly enter TCR values, you have to use Escribe software and create a TCR file, and then sync back to the mod from the computer. So far I’m liking a custom TCR value of 265. Unfortunately, the TCR values of the popular, known presets are either too low or too high. The Titanium if I recall was 360 TCR, and way too hot.
Oh, and Shit Snacks is right about not messing with altering the resistance. While it is a hack that works, you are adding yet another element to the formula. As far as locking or not locking resistance when atomizer is cold, this has been brought up over the years. I wanted to look into it again, and researching the Evolve website basically says, you DON’T need to lock it, unless you have a problem atomizer. I leave my Lost Vape Mirage DNA75C unlocked, the resistance cold, stays the same as it’s used and heated up. If you have odd results, then try locking the resistance.
Last edited:
Summer
Long Island, NY
@entirely_foreign & @eideal852, you might find the answers in this thread:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/
... as well as doing a member search for cyberguy, bossman & Herbie. (Anybody weigh in what Herbie's handle is? -- Herbie Van Napster???)
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/
... as well as doing a member search for cyberguy, bossman & Herbie. (Anybody weigh in what Herbie's handle is? -- Herbie Van Napster???)
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
@entirely_foreign
Check out the link in my profile, I've collected the DNA and DNAc ecig profiles as well as the material files with some help from @bossman
Try switching out the material file on your mod to the Splinter Z, Warm or Hot .csv file and see how they work out for you.
Check out the link in my profile, I've collected the DNA and DNAc ecig profiles as well as the material files with some help from @bossman
Try switching out the material file on your mod to the Splinter Z, Warm or Hot .csv file and see how they work out for you.
I’m actually going to be getting the lost paranormal 250c and was wondering if you had the profile from save herbies, if so could you possibly send them to me I want the profile as back up.
I also have a question for everyone, I have a wismec p80 and a wismec rx gen 3. I have both of them with the myevic firmware, the p80 is dial in perfect in tcr but for some reason when I put the same setting in the rx gen 3 for some reason I get way less vapor and I try to adjust and I get the same thing hardly any vapor.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Yeah, the warm or hot material file is a good hack. A higher max wattage is another way to encourage a DNA to get cooking.
My DNA250C resistance hack is just to keep it locked and nudge up by .01 until I get vapor as readily as I prefer by whatever temp I want my starting point to be. My rxg3d and Ravage Splinters are all more real world with no such resistance fuckery.
Another preference is for fully charged and relatively young cells. My recent purchases have all been LG HG2 and I've been happy with them. Often when a DNA250C starts disappointing me I'll notice the battery is below 70% and I'll just charge it before I'm tempted to tweak anything.
My DNA250C resistance hack is just to keep it locked and nudge up by .01 until I get vapor as readily as I prefer by whatever temp I want my starting point to be. My rxg3d and Ravage Splinters are all more real world with no such resistance fuckery.
Another preference is for fully charged and relatively young cells. My recent purchases have all been LG HG2 and I've been happy with them. Often when a DNA250C starts disappointing me I'll notice the battery is below 70% and I'll just charge it before I'm tempted to tweak anything.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Go to the link @SquirrelMaster posted in the post directly above yours for Herbie's profiles.
@bossman, have you tried the VTC5as? That's what I've been using in the Ravage.
thanks I’m going to get them tonight I appreciate it.
Vapelung2032
Member
Hey, just got my Splinter Z today (with Wismec Sinuous P80 1 battery mod, and xl8r short cooling tube).
Used a Pax2 before but wasn't really a fan, seems like a lot of novelty tech.
So I'm totally new to anything involving mods etc.
Am a bit overwhelmed by the amount of information here, I've followed the burn off process - do I need to update firmware? Or for a rookie is it fine to just keep it simple, and set it to 40W for first pull then reduce to 20W? (I saw this recommended somewhere)
If so, do I need to hold button "preheat" for a few seconds before first draw?
But then, the mod seems to turn itself off at 10s (I noticed during burn off), is this for safety?
(PS yes I searched but as said, I'm overwhelmed)
Used a Pax2 before but wasn't really a fan, seems like a lot of novelty tech.
So I'm totally new to anything involving mods etc.
Am a bit overwhelmed by the amount of information here, I've followed the burn off process - do I need to update firmware? Or for a rookie is it fine to just keep it simple, and set it to 40W for first pull then reduce to 20W? (I saw this recommended somewhere)
If so, do I need to hold button "preheat" for a few seconds before first draw?
But then, the mod seems to turn itself off at 10s (I noticed during burn off), is this for safety?
(PS yes I searched but as said, I'm overwhelmed)
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Yeah, I'd call the Sony VTC5A my second favorite but my preference for the LG HG2 could just be that they're more newly purchased.
Yeah, just using wattage at first is a good move. Installing different firmware and doing the initial config for temp mode is the only confusing bit of getting your mod right. Since wattage is more straightforward and still offers impressive performance it helps to just start there and get used to how the Z hits.
The Z with its bigger heater is a bit slower to heat up than the V2 or V1. Try 35 to 45w depending on your draw speed and length. I seldom use wattage with my Zs so if others have recommendations try those. Also consider adding a Wismec RX Gen3 Dual or maybe a Wismec Sinuous Ravage at some point. Zs are more power hungry and those are budget TC mods that work really well and support several firmware options like your P80.
Vapelung2032
Member
Thanks! I'm going to look into other mods, as this one says the battery is in the verge of dying after one session! I got a spare battery but think a dual would definitely be better; I didn't realise one would die so quick!
I guess it dies faster up at 40W, of course.
First sitting has been interesting. I definitely like the fact it's much more "direct" in operation than the pax2 - I get better clouds with this and have no concern there's anything blocking the pipe.
As with the Pax, I don't feel partiiicularly high. Potentially this is down to portion size (I'll try packing it more tightly), as my tolerance is fairly high these days. But it definitely feels overall more consistent overall.
Got quite a few bits of herb up through the cooling tube, I'll try to fix this with gauze (same as pax)
The mod operation is a little annoying, 10s limit, clicky clickiness etc.
I don't care much about knowing what exact temperature it's at, I just want to know when it's hit its temperature.
And ofc the battery... Say, do these kind of batteries recharge like normal AAs? Or do they need to be in the mod to charge?
I guess it dies faster up at 40W, of course.
First sitting has been interesting. I definitely like the fact it's much more "direct" in operation than the pax2 - I get better clouds with this and have no concern there's anything blocking the pipe.
As with the Pax, I don't feel partiiicularly high. Potentially this is down to portion size (I'll try packing it more tightly), as my tolerance is fairly high these days. But it definitely feels overall more consistent overall.
Got quite a few bits of herb up through the cooling tube, I'll try to fix this with gauze (same as pax)
The mod operation is a little annoying, 10s limit, clicky clickiness etc.
I don't care much about knowing what exact temperature it's at, I just want to know when it's hit its temperature.
And ofc the battery... Say, do these kind of batteries recharge like normal AAs? Or do they need to be in the mod to charge?
Summer
Long Island, NY
@Vapelung2032, you have to find your own style by experimenting.
Most using wattage preheat between 2 - 10 sec before the initial draw only. (I can't speak to TCR.) Some preheat at a higher temp & then knock it down for the 1st draw.
This is what I do:
I preheat only the 1st hit for 10 sec. at 32/33 watts & then take 2 flavor hits @ this wattage & then bump up to 33-36w for a hit or two & then a final hit or 2 @ 36w. Altogether, a total of 5 hits. I let the taste & performance of the herb dictate the wattage of each hit between 32 & 36W. My draw is slow until I feel the vapor on the back of my throat at which point I speed up my draw for the last 3 -5 sec. Really, whatever feels natural to do. And after my hit, I continue drawing for 2 - 3 seconds after releasing the fire button to cool down the heater.
I never get hotspotting, never turn my stem, may or may not stir on the last hit determined by taste.
Change the firing time from 10 to 15 sec on the mod. If you take longer draws than 15 sec. Just release & repress the fire bar during your draw.
You can recharge in the mod or externally. Most use external charges.
You can check out this thread for mods as well as perusing this & the Splinter threads:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/w...ing-for-on-demand-convection-510-vapes.25465/
And here's a small thread on firmware:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/
Most using wattage preheat between 2 - 10 sec before the initial draw only. (I can't speak to TCR.) Some preheat at a higher temp & then knock it down for the 1st draw.
This is what I do:
I preheat only the 1st hit for 10 sec. at 32/33 watts & then take 2 flavor hits @ this wattage & then bump up to 33-36w for a hit or two & then a final hit or 2 @ 36w. Altogether, a total of 5 hits. I let the taste & performance of the herb dictate the wattage of each hit between 32 & 36W. My draw is slow until I feel the vapor on the back of my throat at which point I speed up my draw for the last 3 -5 sec. Really, whatever feels natural to do. And after my hit, I continue drawing for 2 - 3 seconds after releasing the fire button to cool down the heater.
I never get hotspotting, never turn my stem, may or may not stir on the last hit determined by taste.
Change the firing time from 10 to 15 sec on the mod. If you take longer draws than 15 sec. Just release & repress the fire bar during your draw.
You can recharge in the mod or externally. Most use external charges.
You can check out this thread for mods as well as perusing this & the Splinter threads:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/w...ing-for-on-demand-convection-510-vapes.25465/
And here's a small thread on firmware:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/
Last edited:
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Summer and Bossman gave you great advice, I will say that the biggest benefit to a custom firmware aside from being able to set up temp control instead of having to use wattage, is just being able to adjust that shut off so it can be much longer than 10 or 15 seconds (I prefer 25-45 myself) Keep getting a feel for it in wattage, you'll find the loading and usage style that works best for you, manual technique learning curves.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Yo...dudette....that was the best info I have read on using a splinter...helps me so much!
I thought I was going a bit to high on the power at 32 and 33w. I usually do a 3 or 4 step on off the power button.....usually about 5 seconds draw than let off the power while still drawing for a second or two then back on the power. I was experimenting on draw speed....when I can hear the air rushing into the two intake holes I do not go stronger. I am also using Ddave ultimate cooling bubble stem with water. I am not sure if a regular stems have more direct pressure with draw strength in comparison? I would guess so.
I was normally using 31w and not sure if that was a good medium...but now I shall use 33w and see if the taste changes much....I thought I could tell before when I went up to 34.....so I will try again tomorrow for my work brunch vape sesh....lol
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
It's fun to play at high wattages as well. 45w kills a bowl so quickly when you're in a rush. I still prefer lower watts for flavour but it's good to have options.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah I rip 45w through my inline honeycomb rig with my Canary Z, sometimes 43w, but even up to 65w for some convection dabs (crammed a Fierce steel concentrate pad into my RBT wpa, since it is 19/19 and Z is 19/22 I have plenty of extra space so the dabs don't touch the Z screen) Been a long time since I've gone lower than that in wattage mode, since I have a purple heart Z running in temp control on RXdna250
This thread is now closed. For an explanation why, please read http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/important-announcement.49260/.
Please try its successor at https://newfuckcombustion.com/index.php?threads/splinter-v-z.95/. Thanks for the contributions and I hope you enjoy the new home.
Please try its successor at https://newfuckcombustion.com/index.php?threads/splinter-v-z.95/. Thanks for the contributions and I hope you enjoy the new home.
Thread closed (again) to consolodate Splinter discussion in one thread:
Discontinued - RBT Splinter (All Versions)
Thanks fuckcombustion.com for providing a place to hide out and take and idea into its best possible incarnation with a group of close friends. The exert input early in the design process enabled the rapid evolution of the RBT technology and that spirit of customer involvement still exists...
fuckcombustion.com
- Status