Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

[TiSteamo]

@SquirrelMaster
Yes you are right! I was wrong...

 

[SquirrelMaster]

@TiSteamo
You'll have to try pushing your wattage now for the some big clouds.

 

[bossman]

@SquirrelMaster
Yes you are right! I was wrong...

You and @SquirrelMaster solved it. It sounds like you were treating it like a V2 and not a Z with the higher max wattage for the bigger heater. Although I can get plenty of vapor in the 36W range with a Z in wattage where that amount is continuous. In TC my most recent ZV2 has a max of 45W right now and is warming up almost immediately and hitting like a champ.

 

[TiSteamo]

@bossman
I prefer a lower wattage, the taste is better ...

I am satisfied with the steam, only that to get it I have to "play" a bit with the holes ....

I was wondering if it is normal not to get big clouds without fingering the holes ...

 

[RastaBuddhaTao]

30% off code for the month of February... Only on rastabuddhatao.com (US and Canada only)

CODE: jahbless

Best Value Convection Vaporizer... while supplies last

 

[TiSteamo]

@RastaBuddhaTao
Hi, I own a Splinter Z Custom, I wanted to ask you: is it normal that in 37 W wattage mode I get steam only by covering the holes with my fingers?
Thanks and congratulations for your work!

 

[cybrguy]

Just as another data point, I usually have no reason to close either of the holes on my Zs, but if I am trying to get that last bit of vapor out of a load, closing a hole can help with that. Also sucking very hard (fast) may also help exhaust that last bit of goodness.
I tend to use temp mode with my DNA mods rather than wattage, but this applies to either. You may want to increase your coil setting slightly to get more heat.
You may be confusing some with your reference to steam. We generally refer to it as vapor in here. Like from vaporizer...

 

[TiSteamo]

Do I have to adjust the coil settings in wattage mode?
Sorry if I am redundant but I would like to avoid the doubt that it doesn't work well or if the problem is how I use it.
That said, I am very satisfied with the Z ...

 

[cybrguy]

If you are not getting enough heat I would increase your coil setting regardless of which method you are using. On my RX 2/3 where I use wattage mode I have the coil setting several hundredths up from the cold default.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

@TiSteamo
I definitely don't have to finger the holes (ha) to get good vapour production. I ran a bowl through my Z last night at 32w and there was good vapour with my long draws.

Are you covering 1 hole at a time, is that what you mean?

 

[TiSteamo]

@SquirrelMaster At the beginning I constantly cover the rear one, while on the front one I raise and lower my finger as if I were playing the flute ...
Then, at the end of the draw, I also uncover the back hole ...

In this way I get great vapor production, otherwise not.

 

[Shit Snacks]

@SquirrelMaster At the beginning I constantly cover the rear one, while on the front one I raise and lower my finger as if I were playing the flute ...
Then, at the end of the draw, I also uncover the back hole ...

In this way I get great vapor production, otherwise not.

There could be a slight opening where airflow can be lost, like a slight defect, like it you inhale with both holes covered is there still flow? Potentially could be why, as some early Zions had this issue, so you work around it the same way. More than likely it is just based on your technique, and there are so many factors and variables there, but inherently there is no problem using it the way you describe. Do whatever works for you!

 

[TiSteamo]

@Shit Snacks No, actually there is no air flow with the covered holes ...


Edit : Anyway guys, sorry ... I think I said something obvious and banal: certainly closing the air holes you get more steam.
The problem does not arise.

 

[hippogriff]

I loaned out my OG Splinter last year and it's converting some combusting friends, now I'm wanting a Splinter Z for myself, would anybody mind looking at what's available @ RBTs store and recommending something specific? I'm outta the loop about the different versions, I don't imagine there's a bad choice, but I'd appreciate an experienced opinion. Thx

 

[Mr. Me2]

I loaned out my OG Splinter last year and it's converting some combusting friends, now I'm wanting a Splinter Z for myself, would anybody mind looking at what's available @ RBTs store and recommending something specific? I'm outta the loop about the different versions, I don't imagine there's a bad choice, but I'd appreciate an experienced opinion. Thx

Don’t forget to use CODE: jahbless for 30% off, but only good in February.

I’ll trust others to guide you on the “best” Splinter.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I loaned out my OG Splinter last year and it's converting some combusting friends, now I'm wanting a Splinter Z for myself, would anybody mind looking at what's available @ RBTs store and recommending something specific? I'm outta the loop about the different versions, I don't imagine there's a bad choice, but I'd appreciate an experienced opinion. Thx

Yeah go with a Z now! Splinter V2 is new OG

ZV2 is cheaper and China made Z, smoked glass with blackwood, and ceramic insulator.

Not sure if custom Z are still available in the store, but they give you the classic handmade by Ryan appeal, along with exotic wood options, and they have mica insulator like all the previous RBT gear did (like your OG Splinter I believe)

 

[badbee]

@TiSteamo, one thing I had to get used to with the Splinter is slowing my draw. Going slow feels natural with a tight airflow like a VapCap but unnatural when the airflow is wide open. Try taking a really slow breath with no vaporizer involved, it will weird you out . With a device in wattage mode slower means hotter and more vapor. I think closing the hole is just increasing resistance and reducing overall air flow. If it works, it doesn't matter why.

One time I was confused why my Splinter wasn't working, it seemed like a malfunction but no, my fingers had slipped down and covered both holes.

 

[coldforever]

You and @SquirrelMaster solved it. It sounds like you were treating it like a V2 and not a Z with the higher max wattage for the bigger heater. Although I can get plenty of vapor in the 36W range with a Z in wattage where that amount is continuous. In TC my most recent ZV2 has a max of 45W right now and is warming up almost immediately and hitting like a champ.

hey @bossman , quick question.

I understand these are settings for the V2 and Z V2? I have been using both under wattage mode (with a different mod) and been meaning to try TC for a while. Also, how are the heaters different to those on the Z and Splinter OG?

thanks!

 

[bossman]

hey @bossman , quick question.

I understand these are settings for the V2 and Z V2? I have been using both under wattage mode (with a different mod) and been meaning to try TC for a while. Also, how are the heaters different to those on the Z and Splinter OG?

thanks!

Welcome to FC! The custom Z and og Splinter were hand assembled by Ryan the owner of RBT. They have a mica base rather than the ceramic on the Chinese manufactured ZV2 and V2.

For TC I recommend you get that wismec rx gen3 dual mod I'm always talking about and install one of the various firmware options once you get it. There are other mods compatible with the myevic, Tubo, and Arctic Fox firmwares but the rxg3d is a good size and value in a two cell plus the 510 is in a decent position for the chunky Splinter.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Welcome to FC! The custom Z and og Splinter were hand assembled by Ryan the owner of RBT. They have a mica base rather than the ceramic on the Chinese manufactured ZV2 and V2.

For TC I recommend you get that wismec rx gen3 dual mod I'm always talking about and install one of the various firmware options once you get it. There are other mods compatible with the myevic, Tubo, and Arctic Fox firmwares but the rxg3d is a good size and value in a two cell plus the 510 is in a decent position for the chunky Splinter.

To clarify, the base is ceramic in all of them, they all have the ceramic insulator within the 510 deck (an RBT special). The mica vs ceramic situation is within the heater itself, a flat panel that holds up the steel mesh heating element.

 

[coldforever]

Welcome to FC! The custom Z and og Splinter were hand assembled by Ryan the owner of RBT. They have a mica base rather than the ceramic on the Chinese manufactured ZV2 and V2.

For TC I recommend you get that wismec rx gen3 dual mod I'm always talking about and install one of the various firmware options once you get it. There are other mods compatible with the myevic, Tubo, and Arctic Fox firmwares but the rxg3d is a good size and value in a two cell plus the 510 is in a decent position for the chunky Splinter.

Thanks! had been lurking around and finally decided to create an account.

I had already placed an order for rx gen 3 mod (not dual though), and just received it today. I think i'll try the myevic software first.

As for the the difference in build, does that make a difference in terms of settings you're using in your mod? Back to my original question, are the settings in your pic for a V2 and Z V2?

Thanks again!

 

[bossman]

Thanks! had been lurking around and finally decided to create an account.

I had already placed an order for rx gen 3 mod (not dual though), and just received it today. I think i'll try the myevic software first.

As for the the difference in build, does that make a difference in terms of settings you're using in your mod? Back to my original question, are the settings in your pic for a V2 and Z V2?

Thanks again!

Yes those are the settings for the two devices shown in the pic you quoted. The mod you got is a great choice too and myevic will do just what you need. Maybe try the Tubo version from here if you have any trouble flashing the mod with regular myevic. Either will be fine though.

The difference in settings is shown in the pic: higher max wattage and higher resistance for the ZV2 in TC

 

[cybrguy]

Is Ryan still making the Custom Zs, or is Cole making them now?

 

[bossman]

Is Ryan still making the Custom Zs, or is Cole making them now?

My understanding is that the ZV2 and V2 are like the Milaana 3 insofar as they were supposed to replace the customs and then no more customs once the last ones have sold

 

[Shit Snacks]

I'm not sure if it works quite as well for big quick dab rips as the steel mesh pad I used before (pics somewhere in here), but I got a Flavor Saver ceramic concentrate pad from elev8 glass (7th floor) and it really does do just that! Very very tasty rips that keep hitting after you remove the Z (my Canary on G3D with SurMyEvic 25sec autofire at 65 watts) because of how it absorbs the heat I guess? It is like a ceramic sponge!