Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

[chimpybits]

That’s also “just” a v2 (if your still talkin the $69)
xl8r are worth it.

D-oh again. I struggle reading all these Z V2 and V2 Splinters and not get them mixed up. Not so interested in this now.

@chimpybits, since you're in CA, why not order from Herb Cafe?

https://theherbcafe.com/collections/rastabuddhatao

Oh wow I thought RBT removed all resellers and allowed ordering only through RBT store. I see I'm wrong, and the Herb Cafe deal with the Z for $150 CDN with free shipping is probably the best deal. They also claim to have the XLR8R for $15.

That's obviously more than the $69, but that was my mistake, and I think I can talk myself into this.

I see the Wismec Reuleaux RX GEN3 at Planet of the Vapes Canada to be $60. Then the LG HG2 batteries are only $4 at Liion Wholesale. I would pickup 4 cells and a charger then such as the Nitecore Intellicharger i4 for 19.

I estimate this would total around $290 CDN including shipping. I should compare pricing to competitors such as the Timber and the tinymight. Certainly, shipping from only one vendor helps minimize costs, but I suspect the Splinter Z route is cheaper. Snow day here today so maybe I can complete an order today.

 

[Mr. Me2]

D-oh again. I struggle reading all these Z V2 and V2 Splinters and not get them mixed up. Not so interested in this now.

Oh wow I thought RBT removed all resellers and allowed ordering only through RBT store. I see I'm wrong and the Herb Cafe deal with the Z for $150 CDN with free shipping is probably the best deal. They also claim to have the XLR8R for $15.

That's obviously more than the $69, but that was my mistake, and I think I can talk myself into this.

I see the Wismec Reuleaux RX GEN3 at Planet of the Vapes Canada to be $60. Then the LG HG2 batteries are only $4 at Liion Wholesale. I would pickup 4 cells and a charger then such as the Nitecore Intellicharger i4 for 19.

I estimate this would total around $290 CDN including shipping. I should compare pricing to competitors such as the Timber and the tinymight. Certainly, shipping from only one vendor helps minimize costs, but I suspect the Splinter Z route is cheaper. Snow day here today so maybe I can complete an order today.

Don’t forget to reach out to @RogueGuy for the best tools for your new toy. A very minor investment and great addition!

 

[eideal852]

D-oh again. I struggle reading all these Z V2 and V2 Splinters and not get them mixed up. Not so interested in this now.

Oh wow I thought RBT removed all resellers and allowed ordering only through RBT store. I see I'm wrong, and the Herb Cafe deal with the Z for $150 CDN with free shipping is probably the best deal. They also claim to have the XLR8R for $15.

That's obviously more than the $69, but that was my mistake, and I think I can talk myself into this.

I see the Wismec Reuleaux RX GEN3 at Planet of the Vapes Canada to be $60. Then the LG HG2 batteries are only $4 at Liion Wholesale. I would pickup 4 cells and a charger then such as the Nitecore Intellicharger i4 for 19.

I estimate this would total around $290 CDN including shipping. I should compare pricing to competitors such as the Timber and the tinymight. Certainly, shipping from only one vendor helps minimize costs, but I suspect the Splinter Z route is cheaper. Snow day here today so maybe I can complete an order today.

LIION hg2s show as sold out, unless you have a "guy"?

 

[chimpybits]

LIION hg2s show as sold out, unless you have a "guy"?

Rats. More wrongness on my part. Thought that was too good to be true. I guess I would then buy them from planetofthevapes for $14ea - at least I'm not being dinged for shipping, but that totals $60 just for cells! I suspect I'm now out.

Don’t forget to reach out to @RogueGuy for the best tools for your new toy. A very minor investment and great addition!

Doubtful. I haven't looked at shipping charges, but generally I avoid buying small items when the shipping costs many times more. For instance, I just ordered a $4 concentrate pad and paid $17 shipping (which is cheaper than most).

 

[Mr. Me2]

Doubtful. I haven't looked at shipping charges, but generally I avoid buying small items when the shipping costs many times more. For instance, I just ordered a $4 concentrate pad and paid $17 shipping (which is cheaper than most).

From memory, his shipping charges are very modest. Trust me and take a look. That part is free and you won’t be sorry except maybe for the temptation.

 

[eideal852]

Rats. More wrongness on my part. Thought that was too good to be true. I guess I would then buy them from planetofthevapes for $14ea - at least I'm not being dinged for shipping, but that totals $60 just for cells! I suspect I'm now out.

Doubtful. I haven't looked at shipping charges, but generally I avoid buying small items when the shipping costs many times more. For instance, I just ordered a $4 concentrate pad and paid $17 shipping (which is cheaper than most).

illumn has em at $5

edit: U$D

 

[chimpybits]

illumn has em at $5

edit: U$D

That's pretty good. Shipping cost $18. Charger + 4xcells + shipping = $75 CDN. So, that totals around $285 CDN.

That package is now competing with the Lil Bud Elite in the Classifieds (from Canada) which comes with 2 batteries for $260CDN shipped. I would have to buy a charger (and perhaps 2 more cells) so the cost is basically equivalent.

The used route is certainly easier - 1 package shipped and firmware all setup. However, the new Splinter Z route is new. I was initially more interested in the Alan/Bravest tech, but have found many prefer the RBT tech - Splinter Z. Perhaps not as responsive as the Bravest tech, but once the Z train gets going I hear its quite something. (Not looking to re-ignite the RBT vs Bravest ethical debate).

 

[cybrguy]

So, what about the XLXR? I presume the only way I'll come across one is on the rbt store, yes? as part of a package with the jr? In which case, I should probably just spring for it. As so often happens, costs rise, then I deliberate and typically don't buy anything.

It's tough with the international shipping. One tries hard for one and done. hmm ... I do have a tall bent neck 18mm glass mouthpiece (from ogb) I could use.

xl8r are worth it.

I have 6 RBT vapes, the last 3 on 510 connections. I like to use them all on water, but with the addition of the XL8R I don't HAVE to anymore. They really do make hitting direct possible for me where the straight stems were too harsh (for me).
A bent stem can help significantly with heat reduction, but not as well as the XL8R.

but once the Z train gets going I hear its quite something

Quite...

Added: If I were a grower or just wealthy and could waste the high temp hits, I could then easily use a straight stem with my RBT stuff and be happy. But being cheap AND having to pay high prices for my goods I like to squeeze the very last bit of buzz out of my product, and that require high temps. That requires water or an XL8R for me. YMMV

 

[bossman]

That's pretty good. Shipping cost $18. Charger + 4xcells + shipping = $75 CDN. So, that totals around $285 CDN.

That package is now competing with the Lil Bud Elite in the Classifieds (from Canada) which comes with 2 batteries for $260CDN shipped. I would have to buy a charger (and perhaps 2 more cells) so the cost is basically equivalent.

The used route is certainly easier - 1 package shipped and firmware all setup. However, the new Splinter Z route is new. I was initially more interested in the Alan/Bravest tech, but have found many prefer the RBT tech - Splinter Z. Perhaps not as responsive as the Bravest tech, but once the Z train gets going I hear its quite something. (Not looking to re-ignite the RBT vs Bravest ethical debate).

Yeah, I never tried the Elite or Timber but I owned two Lil Bud unregulated vapes. I gave one away and sold the other one. I'm sure the addition of the DNA board improves the performance and consistency. I personally prefer the XL8R cooling stems and also I don't find it necessary to pay a craftsman to effectively make a wooden box mod. For me it's more economical, more flexible, and more practical to just by the Splinter heaters and put them on a range of mods that I can adjust or replace as needed. I also got on the Milaana 3 pre-order so that'll occupy the Lil Bud spot for an unregulated block of wood vape but again for less money and compatible with my glass.

 

[Easywider]

compatible with my glass

Elite/Timber actually has more glass compatibility then Splinters they can accept standard joint sizes and shorter RBT sizes. I find they look a bit out of place on an all wooden enclosure but they all fit

 

[bossman]

Elite/Timber actually has more glass compatibility then Splinters they can accept standard joint sizes and shorter RBT sizes. I find they look a bit out of place on an all wooden enclosure but they all fit

Really? I wasn't ever able to get my LBs to hit at all with my Splinter or Tubo stems. It seemed like they didn't get far enough down for the heat to be sufficient. I was content for a bit with a long glass lined cherry stem from Alan but that's it.

Anyway this is well off topic but sorry if my statement about the wooden joint in the vapwood vapes was inaccurate. It's still part of why I bailed but perhaps not a limiting factor for the Timber and Elite like I imagined.

 

[Easywider]

Really? I wasn't ever able to get my LBs to hit at all with my Splinter or Tubo stems. It seemed like they didn't get far enough down for the heat to be sufficient. I was content for a bit with a long glass lined cherry stem from Alan but that's it.

Anyway this is well off topic but sorry if my statement about the wooden joint in the vapwood vapes was inaccurate. It's still part of why I bailed but perhaps not a limiting factor for the Timber and Elite like I imagined.

Yeah I wouldn't enjoy that either, I wonder if they fixed it or if it's just part of the benefits of DNA regulation.

Back on topic though, XL8R long stem is an absolute cooling beast. I recently took my Z / XL8R stem on a 3 week vaca over the xmas holidays. I didn't think I could live that long without a water piece but it filled the void perfectly, just perfectly until I broke it.

It was a thick walled one to boot! Is there anywhere that still carries the thicker walled XL8R

 

[Jayvape]

Hi all, I've had a Z for some time but it really hasn't gotten that much love. I'm running surmyevic on a rxg3d. I tried setting up tcr mode using sneaky pete's video but it didn't really work that well. I've seen on this forum that it's better to try wattage mode first which is fine because I have a milaana II so I'm used to modulating heat. What wattages should I use, I have the xl8r stem? If i end up liking the z I may splurge on a dna mod to try tcr or tc mode, but I need to use it more first.

 

[Trackrat]

I like the taste, so I start at 32 w and slowly work my way up to 40, 42w, depending on my flower

 

[bossman]

Hi all, I've had a Z for some time but it really hasn't gotten that much love. I'm running surmyevic on a rxg3d. I tried setting up tcr mode using sneaky pete's video but it didn't really work that well. I've seen on this forum that it's better to try wattage mode first which is fine because I have a milaana II so I'm used to modulating heat. What wattages should I use, I have the xl8r stem? If i end up liking the z I may splurge on a dna mod to try tcr or tc mode, but I need to use it more first.

36 to 46W for me but I don't use wattage that much of late. Honestly with a Z on that mod in wattage you should already be getting pretty amazing performance just stepping the wattage up. What cells do you have in the Wismec and how old are they?

I can put one of my Zs on a rxg3d for a change and see what numbers it likes in myevic. Someone recently said that they experienced markedly better results after switching to the latest tubo_myevic. I don't even have sur_myevic on any of my TC mods because the old myevic.bin was the only one I could get to install using the Wismec updater and it works so well I've never looked back.

And yeah, do join the DNA club once you're sold on the Z. That rxg3d is an excellent budget TC mod though so if the wattage performance isn't cutting it I'd be suspicious of the batteries since there really aren't any settings to fuck with.

 

[jbm]

Hi all, I've had a Z for some time but it really hasn't gotten that much love. I'm running surmyevic on a rxg3d. I tried setting up tcr mode using sneaky pete's video but it didn't really work that well. I've seen on this forum that it's better to try wattage mode first which is fine because I have a milaana II so I'm used to modulating heat. What wattages should I use, I have the xl8r stem? If i end up liking the z I may splurge on a dna mod to try tcr or tc mode, but I need to use it more first.

I usually start in the low 30s and work my way up, but I seldom go over 38W. That's sort of the sweet spot for me in terms of flavor and effects. I currently have a Z set up on the same mod you're using (running Arctic Fox though,) and I have it set to pre-heat at 120% of the current wattage for 2 sec beforehand. This works well, the Z is big enough that you want to warm it up a bit. If I'm vaping right before bed I want the temp up a bit, so I'll start at 38w and just hit it a few times, with the last hits being generally the richest in flavor.

 

[Trackrat]

36 to 46W for me but I don't use wattage that much of late. Honestly with a Z on that mod in wattage you should already be getting pretty amazing performance just stepping the wattage up. What cells do you have in the Wismec and how old are they?

I can put one of my Zs on a rxg3d for a change and see what numbers it likes in myevic. Someone recently said that they experienced markedly better results after switching to the latest tubo_myevic. I don't even have sur_myevic on any of my TC mods because the old myevic.bin was the only one I could get to install using the Wismec updater and it works so well I've never looked back.

And yeah, do join the DNA club once you're sold on the Z. That rxg3d is an excellent budget TC mod though so if the wattage performance isn't cutting it I'd be suspicious of the batteries since there really aren't any settings to fuck with.

Bossman is correct, putting a Z on a dna mod is really the way to go. Took me awhile to come around. Glad I did.

 

[Jayvape]

36 to 46W for me but I don't use wattage that much of late. Honestly with a Z on that mod in wattage you should already be getting pretty amazing performance just stepping the wattage up. What cells do you have in the Wismec and how old are they?

I can put one of my Zs on a rxg3d for a change and see what numbers it likes in myevic. Someone recently said that they experienced markedly better results after switching to the latest tubo_myevic. I don't even have sur_myevic on any of my TC mods because the old myevic.bin was the only one I could get to install using the Wismec updater and it works so well I've never looked back.

And yeah, do join the DNA club once you're sold on the Z. That rxg3d is an excellent budget TC mod though so if the wattage performance isn't cutting it I'd be suspicious of the batteries since there really aren't any settings to fuck with.

I have some LG hg2's that are almost a year old in it

Thanks everyone for responding, gonna try some different wattages and see if I can find what I like. How long should I preheat for? This is kind of a big vape and I don't feel like a 5 sec preheat will work on the Z like it does the milaana

 

[jbm]

Thanks everyone for responding, gonna try some different wattages and see if I can find what I like. How long should I preheat for? This is kind of a big vape and I don't feel like a 5 sec preheat will work on the Z like it does the milaana

I use a 2 sec preheat. The first hit is sometimes not huge but it serves to warm it up and it’s still tasty.

 

[bossman]

Thanks everyone for responding, gonna try some different wattages and see if I can find what I like. How long should I preheat for? This is kind of a big vape and I don't feel like a 5 sec preheat will work on the Z like it does the milaana

The heater design is based on the Milaana so your familiarity with that should help you get your technique down.

I only consider preheating as I'm getting a Z started. Once or twice for five or ten seconds at 40+. One of the keys to getting a feel for the Z is to wait for it to get going. You can do that with just TC with a bit of patience and the main thing is to just learn what to expect. For instance even with all my Zs on DNA250C mods I'll preheat them at 420+ a few times and be slow to start my draw after hitting the fire button, especially when I can tell it's not heat soaked yet.

Depending on how many times those HG2 cells have been charged you might try some new ones. I've been shocked by how responsive and downright hot any Splinter combo is hitting with the HG2s I got most recently.

For me the handful of variables make the Splinter lineup a rewarding platform for on demand convection because I can fuck with those variables until each combo is hitting just like I want it to.

But skipping all that nonsense, if you're hitting an ice cold Z with year old batteries you should still have massive clouds by the second or third go just by picking a wattage in the 40s.

I guess I'd be remiss not to mention that both prefer and find more success with long draws at whatever speed, especially with a Z. Ten seconds or longer not including the first few seconds when I'm on the button but haven't started to draw yet.

 

[pakalolo]

The heater design is based on the Milaana so your familiarity with that should help you get your technique down.

No, it's based on the Zion, hence the Z.

One of the keys to getting a feel for the Z is to wait for it to get going.

As you say, the Splinter Z needs time before it starts to produce. This is due to the size of the heater. My mod is set for a 30 second hit, and I often pull it through my Orbiter so I can see how the vapour is forming. One of the things that influences this is whether or not I am pulling on it during the heat-up phase. I use wattage mode and a 2 second pre-heat at 60W. I tend to start drawing after about 10 seconds, and I start to see vapour at around 20-25 seconds depending on the wattage. If I wait longer to start hitting then the start of vapour production is delayed somewhat. When I start after 20 seconds, vapour barely starts. This reflects the importance of moving hot air through the load to get it up to temperature.

I should point out that I like to use low wattages, starting at 20W and stepping up to 25W or 30W by 2-3W every couple of hits. The timings above will be shorter for people who start at 30W, but the pattern will be the same: you have to get the huge heater up to temperature and then you have to heat up the load before you'll get vapour. It's a slower process than with the smaller heater of the Splinter/Splinter V2, which is based on the Milaana.

@bossman says he only pre-heats when he's starting, which is another aspect of the big heater. It takes a while to cool down so if you're doing a session, it'll stay warm between hits. Basically, the way your Z performs depends on how you use it. Experience informs your usage. If you just keep in mind the size of the heater and have patience, you'll figure it out. Once you do, you'll love it.

I always liken RBT devices to musical instruments: you need to learn to play them but once you do, the results are beautiful.

 

[jbm]

No, it's based on the Zion, hence the Z.



As you say, the Splinter Z needs time before it starts to produce. This is due to the size of the heater. My mod is set for a 30 second hit, and I often pull it through my Orbiter so I can see how the vapour is forming. One of the things that influences this is whether or not I am pulling on it during the heat-up phase. I use wattage mode and a 2 second pre-heat at 60W. I tend to start drawing after about 10 seconds, and I start to see vapour at around 20-25 seconds depending on the wattage. If I wait longer to start hitting then the start of vapour production is delayed somewhat. When I start after 20 seconds, vapour barely starts. This reflects the importance of moving hot air through the load to get it up to temperature.

I should point out that I like to use low wattages, starting at 20W and stepping up to 25W or 30W by 2-3W every couple of hits. The timings above will be shorter for people who start at 30W, but the pattern will be the same: you have to get the huge heater up to temperature and then you have to heat up the load before you'll get vapour. It's a slower process than with the smaller heater of the Splinter/Splinter V2, which is based on the Milaana.

@bossman says he only pre-heats when he's starting, which is another aspect of the big heater. It takes a while to cool down so if you're doing a session, it'll stay warm between hits. Basically, the way your Z performs depends on how you use it. Experience informs your usage. If you just keep in mind the size of the heater and have patience, you'll figure it out. Once you do, you'll love it.

I always liken RBT devices to musical instruments: you need to learn to play them but once you do, the results are beautiful.

Thanks. This was very informative and helpful and will help me to get my Z technique down. The musical instrument analogy is very apt.

 

[Easywider]

As you say, the Splinter Z needs time before it starts to produce. This is due to the size of the heater. My mod is set for a 30 second hit, and I often pull it through my Orbiter so I can see how the vapour is forming. One of the things that influences this is whether or not I am pulling on it during the heat-up phase. I use wattage mode and a 2 second pre-heat at 60W. I tend to start drawing after about 10 seconds, and I start to see vapour at around 20-25 seconds depending on the wattage. If I wait longer to start hitting then the start of vapour production is delayed somewhat. When I start after 20 seconds, vapour barely starts. This reflects the importance of moving hot air through the load to get it up to temperature.

I like to use TC but I find my experience is the same. I actually stopped pre-heating because I find the Z gets up to temp much faster if I just draw a high volume of air my first draw. I hit the thing like a vacuum cleaner for the first hit. My max wattage is also set to 65 so there's a lot of juice for a powerful first draw. I like to do 6-8 second draws. The first hit usually a full 8seconds and my power output when Im done usually reads high 53-58 in wattage and second draw it drops down to about 33-38w. Nice and preheated with no time wasted.

 

[Vision103]

@Jacer i just setup the Tubo software on a G3D as well for a custom Z. The resistance defaulted to 4.3 initially and I didn’t realize, first hit 355F and it scorched the load.. I then drastically reduced down to like 2.1 and couldn’t get anything from it, settled on 4.1 right now and it’s working well but gonna keep messing with it in a range from 4.06 to 4.12 I think will be my sweet spot

For some reason I can't change the wattage in tubo mode. What did you go into to change that. I got a wismec and p80s and the wattage is stuck at 70. Artic fox was working fine. I went through every menu. I think I entered the twilight zone. Haha I have no idea what I did. Any help would be appreciated.

Got it.. Thanks

For some reason I can't change the wattage in tubo mode. What did you go into to change that. I got a wismec and p80s and the wattage is stuck at 70. Artic fox was working fine. I went through every menu. I think I entered the twilight zone. Haha I have no idea what I did. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Consolidated21]

For some reason I can't change the wattage in tubo mode. What did you go into to change that. I got a wismec and p80s and the wattage is stuck at 70. Artic fox was working fine. I went through every menu. I think I entered the twilight zone. Haha I have no idea what I did. Any help would be appreciated.

Got it.. Thanks

In Tubo mode and when you are in edit ,navigate by left button to the desired "field" and change it...