Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

[cybrguy]

I use my RBT vapes of all flavors mostly through water. But the long XL8R has teased me into taking a Z out and about a few times recently. It really has been doable without water on my fairly sensitive lungs. I was surprised as I rarely used the standard straight stems at all due to discomfort.

Low temp flavor hits are the exception to the above. I often take them from my M2M adapter before putting it on the glass.

 

[Hogni]

@bossman, thx for clarification!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Cross-posting from regular Splinter thread, except with details focused on the Z now:

Well I pulled the trigger on a splinter and splinter z finally! Pretty excited about it. Never had a 510 herb vape but always wanted one. Advice needed... on mod SIZE in particular. I read or saw in a review that the larger size of the z requires a larger mod so that it won’t be top heavy. Less chance of tipping over. Not concerned about the power so much but more concerned about the ergonomics. For those of you with the z, do you prefer a 3 battery mod? Would a 4 battery mod be overkill? I have a 2 battery mod for the splinter. Will likely use splinter as portable with a wooden stem and use the z with water pipe at home. Thoughts?

Here is some comparison shots with three different popular Wismec mods. On the left we have my Splinter V2 on the Sinuous P80 single battery (the button here is the entire screen, you press in near the top) then middle is my Canarywood custom Z on Reuleaux RX Gen3 Dual two battery (typically abbreviated as G3D) and on the right we have my Purpleheart custom Z on Reuleaux RX250 three battery (this one is a DNA250 chip limited edition design)

These are all great options because they allow you to set them down on their side, keeping the Splinter itself hovering above the surface. I prefer a mod that is enough clearance surrounding the Splinter to do this, to protect the 510 connection. Sometimes the P80 can roll with it attached though, not such a big deal since the diameter is almost exact fortunately. The Reuleauxs are nice with their angled edges though, ideal for setting on its side with a splinter attached.

Here is a sort of size comparison with some stems and the batteries below, these are all pretty compact mods. The bronze one is of course the heaviest however it is still ergonomic in the hand, and the G3D is surprisingly tiny no heavier than the P80 too...

So you just have to decide on a form factor along with battery life and brand style. Anything should work well enough, but DNA will give you some precision and downloadable temperature profiles. The others will give you the option to load custom firmware with various options like Cruise / Autofire and the ability to tinker setting up your own temp control.

The P80 is set up with TCR using ArcticFox firmware for the V2 (the one relevant to this thread, since it is for the regular splinter) and it is working quite well I must say. Very solid portable, got to be a little careful since it is a little more fragile than a basic metal pen is all. A worthy trade-off imo, and yes more portable than a Z, V2 more efficient with single battery mods too.

My G3D has surmyevic now, but it would work with ArcticFox and also Tubo firmware now as does the P80 work with all three. I am still using power mode with it, I often just set CanaryZ to 45watts with Autofire at 25 seconds so I don't have to hold the button during my hit (which is typically under that amount) and run it through water. I can also do convection dabbing set as high as 65watts. it is a nice setup with very decent battery life, I have a few pairs I can swap in, lasts a good while though.

The RX250 is nice with the PurpleZ thanks to herbievonvapster's temperature control profile. I get a wide range temp stepping from 320-445F and the interface is simple once for set up, nothing else to adjust ever. Since this is my only three battery mod, and I only have two dual external chargers, I just charge them in the mod by usb (I did the initial charge up externally for the new batteries though, 30Qs found on sale). Here the battery life is even longer though, but I must admit this is more of my connoisseur piece and it doesn't get as much use day to day, so I can't say for sure how good for the battery life is...

 

[jbm]

A couple weeks ago I decided to try running TCR on my purple heart custom Z. I had the TCR set way too high, to 315 (can’t remember where I got that setting) and 38w or so. I ran it for two hits. It seemed to run pretty hot. The hits each lasted maybe 15 seconds or so. I now have these three spots on the screen. Does anyone know what that is? Is the heater damaged? The ABV was brown but not black, so I don’t think I combusted. I went back to wattage mode after that.

 

[kurt6652]

A couple weeks ago I decided to try running TCR on my purple heart custom Z. I had the TCR set way too high, to 315 (can’t remember where I got that setting) and 38w or so. I ran it for two hits. It seemed to run pretty hot. The hits each lasted maybe 15 seconds or so. I now have these three spots on the screen. Does anyone know what that is? Is the heater damaged? The ABV was brown but not black, so I don’t think I combusted. I went back to wattage mode after that.

If the cold ohms reading on your mod hasn't increased the heating element should be fine. The discoloration is probably cosmetic

 

[cybrguy]

This is my Splinter family. In order its a Canary Custom Z on a VT75D, an early square edge Splinter on an RX 2/3, and a ZV2 on a Drone. All 3 are 2 battery Mods, with the VT75D and the Drone being DNA chipped. I can use 3 batteries in the RX 2/3, but I never have. The Drone looks like a 3 battery mod, but it is a Squank box so what might be a third battery is an unused ecig juice tank.

They can all be laid on their side so that the Splinters don't touch the table. I tend to leave them that way, with or without a loaded stem, to avoid any accidents. The Custom and the Splinter both have the thicker glass.
The Splinter on the RX 2/3 is the one I use in wattage mode, the others on DNAs get temp control. The Canary Z on the Hcigar (Vt75D) gets the most use. It is a very happy family.

 

[Shit Snacks]

A couple weeks ago I decided to try running TCR on my purple heart custom Z. I had the TCR set way too high, to 315 (can’t remember where I got that setting) and 38w or so. I ran it for two hits. It seemed to run pretty hot. The hits each lasted maybe 15 seconds or so. I now have these three spots on the screen. Does anyone know what that is? Is the heater damaged? The ABV was brown but not black, so I don’t think I combusted. I went back to wattage mode after that.

No reason to think the heater is affected at all, that just looks like stained screen from herbs or vapor, depending on exactly how you used it. Seems like nothing to worry about to me!

 

[jbm]

If the cold ohms reading on your mod hasn't increased the heating element should be fine. The discoloration is probably cosmetic

Ok thanks to both @Shit Snacks and @kurt6652. The cold ohm reading is unchanged, and I’ve always gotten good advice from @Shit Snacks, so maybe I’ll try cleaning the screen. But it still hits fine so I guess it’s all just wabi-sabi.

 

[Kinick23]

@jbm what mod are running your splinter on? I had the surmyevic firmware loaded for over a year and ran on wattage mode and wanted to try TCR but had it dialed in just right that I didn’t feel like messing with it. I recently switched to the Tubo firmware on a wismec G3D and after figuring out the correct coil resistance for my unit it’s performing better than ever. No hot spotting, consistent large clouds and the vapor signature feels different now. In wattage mode I got large clouds as well but the when hitting the device I could feel the vapor heat building more and it hit my lungs harder. Now it feels like I’m breathing in air not realizing how much vapor is building then blowing out big consistent cloud. Wasn’t sure if you had a mod compatible with the Tubo software but if so I’d say it’s worth a try

 

[jbm]

@jbm what mod are running your splinter on? I had the surmyevic firmware loaded for over a year and ran on wattage mode and wanted to try TCR but had it dialed in just right that I didn’t feel like messing with it. I recently switched to the Tubo firmware on a wismec G3D and after figuring out the correct coil resistance for my unit it’s performing better than ever. No hot spotting, consistent large clouds and the vapor signature feels different now. In wattage mode I got large clouds as well but the when hitting the device I could feel the vapor heat building more and it hit my lungs harder. Now it feels like I’m breathing in air not realizing how much vapor is building then blowing out big consistent cloud. Wasn’t sure if you had a mod compatible with the Tubo software but if so I’d say it’s worth a try

I’m running my Zs on a G3D with Arctic Fox and a paranormal 250c. I have a v1 on a P80 running sur_myevic, but I’m pretty happy with wattage mode. I have a FF2+, Mighty, and a Ghost MV1 if I need more precise temp control. I get what I need wattage stepping with the Splinters, and I feel like it’s more in the spirit of the device.

 

[bossman]

I’m running my Zs on a G3D with Arctic Fox and a paranormal 250c. I have a v1 on a P80 running sur_myevic, but I’m pretty happy with wattage mode. I have a FF2+, Mighty, and a Ghost MV1 if I need more precise temp control. I get what I need wattage stepping with the Splinters, and I feel like it’s more in the spirit of the device.

Fuck that you should put @HerbieVonVapster's ecigprofiles on the Paranormal and show the Z some TC!

 

[eideal852]

I’m running my Zs on a G3D with Arctic Fox and a paranormal 250c. I have a v1 on a P80 running sur_myevic, but I’m pretty happy with wattage mode. I have a FF2+, Mighty, and a Ghost MV1 if I need more precise temp control. I get what I need wattage stepping with the Splinters, and I feel like it’s more in the spirit of the device.

For a quick bowl Im having trouble getting up to steam in tc on the drone dnac-few stems in, a row and it’s the warmed up and kills it, but for a quick run and gun, it’s just too slow off the line (though maybe I need to further tweak it) BUT—-i just put away my v2 and dug out the v1 and remember why i once argued that it was fave of the lot. My v1 puffs quick. straight wattage mode, Tasty as hell. Zero issues with hotspot. If it was my only splinter i think id be fiiiine

 

[bossman]

For a quick bowl Im having trouble getting up to steam in tc on the drone dnac-few stems in, a row and it’s the warmed up and kills it, but for a quick run and gun, it’s just too slow off the line (though maybe I need to further tweak it) BUT—-i just put away my v2 and dug out the v1 and remember why i once argued that it was fave of the lot. My v1 puffs quick. straight wattage mode, Tasty as hell. Zero issues with hotspot. If it was my only splinter i think id be fiiiine

Splinter V1: the official on demand vape of dads hiding in the garage for a minute =P

@eideal852 I like the V2 and V1 for their quicker heat up too. With both of my Drone Zs I keep the resistance high enough that can do a TC preheat for five or ten seconds and even though the heater isn't really drawing much power after the first few seconds it'll get me to vapor production and true warmed up-ness more quickly. This approach is because I'm too lazy to switch to wattage on a dna-c where it takes a few extra clicks and also because most of my DNAc mods recheck the resistance once I switch back to TC so all tolled it's just more button pressing than I'm trying to fuck with.

So you'll see me start with a cold Drone/Z combo, fire it twice for more than five seconds just to sort of rev it up a bit. The other two things I'll do are 1) start my first few hits late like three seconds after hitting the fire button and 2) take my first few hits at a higher temp than I'll ultimately step up from, so I'll warm it up at 420, take an early hit there while it's still getting heat soaked, and then back up to 400 or 390 or 380 once the warmup has clearly happened. Alternately pop the resistance up another .01 and see how that fares.

Oh, and sometimes when I'm thinking "this Z should be humming by now, wtf?" it's because my batteries are on the low side. Even if they're like 75% still I'll top them off and notice warming up takes less coaxing. I don't even use my 30Q cells anymore because they seem slow and wimpy in this regard. Some of those hellcat LG HG2s from Liion would probably change your life too but yeah fifteen or twenty bucks how could you possibly!

Honestly I run all my Zs on the hot side so TC gets going more quickly and then compensate for any uneven heating by using lower displayed temps that I don't believe for a minute based on the quick extraction.

 

[Easywider]

Splinter V1: the official on demand vape of dads hiding in the garage for a minute =P

^^ Dad checking in, this is truth. My go to for speed sessions.

So you'll see me start with a cold Drone/Z combo, fire it twice for more than five seconds just to sort of rev it up a bit. The other two things I'll do are 1) start my first few hits late like three seconds after hitting the fire button and 2) take my first few hits at a higher temp than I'll ultimately step up from, so I'll warm it up at 420, take an early hit there while it's still getting heat soaked, and then back up to 400 or 390 or 380 once the warmup has clearly happened. Alternately pop the resistance up another .01 and see how that fares.

For a quick bowl Im having trouble getting up to steam in tc on the drone dnac-

This may be an unpopular suggestion as it was once said not to exceed 50w but after getting sick of slow heat up times in TC mode I upped my wattage to 65W. It's way more responsive now, my Z gives me the best first hit out of all my vapes. I find a medium/strong inhale of the first draw really gets it up to temp fast with the 65w headroom.

 

[GoldenBud]

(this one is a DNA250 chip limited edition design)

I also had a good session with the Z on some limited edition DNA250 that looked like a blue diamond from the ocean or so... I had to be careful. The owner didn't want me to use above 48W, it is so intense. like a Desktop device.

 

[eideal852]

Splinter V1: the official on demand vape of dads hiding in the garage for a minute =P

indeeeeed...
I will have to tweak up, as you describe, I had it DOWN with wattage for speedy response, 5s preheat (manual), then 42-45w for 10s ea.
bwwaaaaoooohhhhhhhhhh

This may be an unpopular suggestion as it was once said not to exceed 50w but after getting sick of slow heat up times in TC mode I upped my wattage to 65W. It's way more responsive now, my Z gives me the best first hit out of all my vapes. I find a medium/strong inhale of the first draw really gets it up to temp fast with the 65w headroom.

I wonder if w TC this is less of an issue, as once up, it no longer pulls that max wattage, no?

 

[bossman]

^^ Dad checking in, this is truth. My go to for speed sessions.


This may be an unpopular suggestion as it was once said not to exceed 50w but after getting sick of slow heat up times in TC mode I upped my wattage to 65W. It's way more responsive now, my Z gives me the best first hit out of all my vapes. I find a medium/strong inhale of the first draw really gets it up to temp fast with the 65w headroom.

indeeeeed...
I will have to tweak up, as you describe, I had it DOWN with wattage for speedy response, 5s preheat (manual), then 42-45w for 10s ea.
bwwaaaaoooohhhhhhhhhh

I wonder if w TC this is less of an issue, as once up, it no longer pulls that max wattage, no?

Yeah, I've been using the Herbie ecigprofiles since before he tweaked them down to 45W. I've had my Zs with 60W available in TC I'm pretty sure. Just checked and two are at 55, one is at 50 and the super hot custom bubinga is at 46 because I keep lowering all the specs since installing those crazy HG2s.

All this to say I like @Easywider's suggestion of bumping up the max watts in TC. I've done this incrementally with success on my rxg3d Splinters too: rather than fuck with resistance I'll leave my V2 at .24 but let it have a max of 36 or 36W instead of 33 and right away I'll see quicker clouds and faster extraction through the same temp range.

 

[chimpybits]

Hiya I'm thinking of jumping on a deal on a V2 Splinter Z, but am confused by the offerings on the rbt store. There's a Z up for $69. I want to add an XL8R so that's $30 for package of XL8R, XLjr and 3 Screens. But that's the same cost as the two Z's with XL8R package. I guess I should just go for that (better) deal and have a spare Splinter Z around. That's weirdly against my minimalist nature.

p.s. I have the opposite of VAS and my DD's mV and F2 are falling apart. So, it's time I make some sort of decision and part with my $...

 

[androponic]

Hiya I'm thinking of jumping on a deal on a V2 Splinter Z, but am confused by the offerings on the rbt store. There's a Z up for $69. I want to add an XL8R so that's $30 for package of XL8R, XLjr and 3 Screens. But that's the same cost as the two Z's with XL8R package. I guess I should just go for that (better) deal and have a spare Splinter Z around. That's weirdly against my minimalist nature.

p.s. I have the opposite of VAS and my DD's mV and F2 are falling apart. So, it's time I make some sort of decision and part with my $...

Those you are looking at are not Splinter Z’s. They are just Splinter V2’s.

 

[chimpybits]

Those you are looking at are not Splinter Z’s. They are just Splinter V2’s.

Right. Ok, great, that makes it easier. I'm in for that Z.

So, what about the XLXR? I presume the only way I'll come across one is on the rbt store, yes? as part of a package with the jr? In which case, I should probably just spring for it. As so often happens, costs rise, then I deliberate and typically don't buy anything.

It's tough with the international shipping. One tries hard for one and done. hmm ... I do have a tall bent neck 18mm glass mouthpiece (from ogb) I could use.

 

[eideal852]

Right. Ok, great, that makes it easier. I'm in for that Z.

So, what about the XLXR? I presume the only way I'll come across one is on the rbt store, yes? as part of a package with the jr? In which case, I should probably just spring for it. As so often happens, costs rise, then I deliberate and typically don't buy anything.

It's tough with the international shipping. One tries hard for one and done. hmm ... I do have a tall bent neck 18mm glass mouthpiece (from ogb) I could use.

That’s also “just” a v2 (if your still talkin the $69)
xl8r are worth it.

 

[Alex3oe]

So, what about the XLXR? I presume the only way I'll come across one is on the rbt store, yes?

vgoodiez has some short ones left on discount:

https://vgoodiez.com/collections/special-price?page=2

 

[Summer]

@chimpybits, since you're in CA, why not order from Herb Cafe?

https://theherbcafe.com/collections/rastabuddhatao

 

[sickmanfraud]

They can all be laid on their side so that the Splinters don't touch the table. I tend to leave them that way, with or without a loaded stem, to avoid any accidents. The Custom and the Splinter both have the thicker glass.
The Splinter on the RX 2/3 is the one I use in wattage mode, the others on DNAs get temp control. The Canary Z on the Hcigar (Vt75D) gets the most use. It is a very happy family.

Does anyone know if laying mods down without supporting the Splinter puts extra strain on the 510 connection?

 

[bossman]

Right. Ok, great, that makes it easier. I'm in for that Z.

So, what about the XLXR? I presume the only way I'll come across one is on the rbt store, yes? as part of a package with the jr? In which case, I should probably just spring for it. As so often happens, costs rise, then I deliberate and typically don't buy anything.

It's tough with the international shipping. One tries hard for one and done. hmm ... I do have a tall bent neck 18mm glass mouthpiece (from ogb) I could use.

The best value right now is the ZV2 and V2 combo with a single XL8R (and some short straight stems you'll never use) for $125. But yeah just a $69 V2 is a great choice. Sadly it's right around a hundred bucks with the XL8R short and long stems added. I use my long XL8R stems most.

https://www.rastabuddhatao.com/product-p/splntrpckge.htm

RBT has pretty frequent sales too if you're not in a hurry.