Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

Status
Not open for further replies.

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
I sent cole@rbt an email yesterday, was hoping he'd get back to me early today, but no response as yet.
I just called the customer service number on the site, straight to voicemail and the inbox is full. Can't leave a message.

Leads me to believe 1.theyre busy, 2. They probably won't respond to my email if they're not checking voicemail 3. If I put in an order, will it process n get shipped? Feeling hesitant

I don't have Instagram on my phone, and I just noticed I can't start a conversation here with RBT.

Can't put in an order until I speak to a representative. A lil disappointed. Any other direct avenues yall may know of to contact RBT?

Thanks
Try to pm him at @RBTcole

I’ve found him very responsive (using pm) and helpful.
 

Chandler

Well-Known Member
Thanks @Mr. Me2. I however got anxious, and went about it a different way. First conclusion I came to was, I now want this vape, it will be added to collection regardless of bargain. Next I called my shop herb Cafe. One of the few who had the Z in stock.
https://theherbcafe.com/products/rastabuddhatao-splinter-z-vaporizer?_pos=3&_sid=d9641178c&_ss=r
Tried to price match with the US rbt sale. We concluded that after tax shipping and possible duties, the price would still be at a min. $170 CAD. His site they selling for $169CAD on sale. He reduced the price to 154.99,then with promo code Ilovethc, discount another 5 percent.so it came to about 145 before taxes. Basically $35 more than sneaky Pete's awesome deal, but still more than $40 off its retail value. And Less than the retail value of a splinter. Plus they had xl8r stems available. In a kit with a short one. Another $40 bucks. (didn't want the short one) Only thing they were out of at check out was the WPA.. That I will source directly from rbt

Thanks for the help everybody. By next week I'll be able join in on the discussion!
 
Last edited:

Summer

Long Island, NY
@EnemyLemon, I'm using stock software with plain old wattage mode. Before taking an initial hit off a newly filled herb bowl, I preheat the bowl for 10 sec at 32W. And after my draws, like @jbm, I, too, continue drawing for 2 - 3 secinds after releasing the fire button.

Here's what Arctic Fox/Red Panda (for color screens) autofire does:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Waxpen/comments/c12wh1/the_new_autofire_function_and_being_able_to/

Interpreting the nfeteam.com website makes me feel just plain stupid as I can't make hide nor tail of the versions. Are they all inclusive/comprehensive versions or supplemental? If I want to install the latest version of RP with the autofire is this the only single piece of firmware version I have to download?

https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/p2-redpanda-190602.3778/

Or do I have to install any or all of the previous versions?

https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/redpanda-releases/

And do you have to register to download? I tried to sign up to ask the above, but each time I tried it said that I didn't complete the captcha - except that the captcha isn't shown on the page. :|

Sorry for being OT, but it does relate to the autofire conversation. If no one can help me here, I'll take it to the mod firmware thread. :)
 
Last edited:

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
@EnemyLemon, I'm using stock software with plain old wattage mode. Before taking an initial hit off a newly filled herb bowl, I preheat the bowl for 10 sec at 32W. And after my draws, like @jbm, I, too, continue drawing for 2 - 3 secinds after releasing the fire button.

Here's what Arctic Fox/Red Panda (for color screens) autofire does:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Waxpen/comments/c12wh1/the_new_autofire_function_and_being_able_to/

Interpreting the nfeteam.com website makes me feel just plain stupid as I can't make hide nor tail of the versions. Are they all inclusive/comprehensive versions or supplemental? If I want to install the latest version of RP with the autofire is this the only single piece of firmware version I have to download?

https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/p2-redpanda-190602.3778/

Or do I have to install any or all of the previous versions?

https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/redpanda-releases/

And do you have to register to download? I tried to sign up to ask the above, but each time I tried it said that I didn't complete the captcha - except that the captcha isn't shown on the page. :|

Sorry for being OT, but it does relate to the autofire conversation. If no one can help me here, I'll take it to the mod firmware thread. :)

I don't recall registering for anything when I downloaded arctic fox
 
Shit Snacks,

jbm

Not a Vapman “beta tester”
@EnemyLemon, I'm using stock software with plain old wattage mode. Before taking an initial hit off a newly filled herb bowl, I preheat the bowl for 10 sec at 32W. And after my draws, like @jbm, I, too, continue drawing for 2 - 3 secinds after releasing the fire button.

Here's what Arctic Fox/Red Panda (for color screens) autofire does:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Waxpen/comments/c12wh1/the_new_autofire_function_and_being_able_to/

Interpreting the nfeteam.com website makes me feel just plain stupid as I can't make hide nor tail of the versions. Are they all inclusive/comprehensive versions or supplemental? If I want to install the latest version of RP with the autofire is this the only single piece of firmware version I have to download?

https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/p2-redpanda-190602.3778/

Or do I have to install any or all of the previous versions?

https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/redpanda-releases/

And do you have to register to download? I tried to sign up to ask the above, but each time I tried it said that I didn't complete the captcha - except that the captcha isn't shown on the page. :|

Sorry for being OT, but it does relate to the autofire conversation. If no one can help me here, I'll take it to the mod firmware thread. :)

I didn’t have to register to download it.

Each version of the firmware is complete unto itself and independent of the preceding versions. You can just install the most recent. I agree, the website is confusing.
 
jbm,
  • Like
Reactions: Summer

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
1. install nfe tools https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/af-12-rp-2-nfe-tools-v190703.3894/
2. install arctic fox through nfe tools (NToolbox.exe inside the folder of nfe after winrar's extraction, Update Firmware in the menu)
install the latest:
https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/arcticfox-releases/
3. once everything set up you'll get into the menu of the arctic fox's configuration you'll search for TC profile, then you'll have to chooose
-TCR. set it to 120.
-Watts. set it 47W / 55W (Depends: if your mod has 1 battery up to 47W, if 2 batteries 55W)
-Temperature dominant: starting from 180C-185C
 
GoldenBud,
  • Like
Reactions: Summer

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
What is winrar?

If you have a Wismec mod, can't AF be installed via the Wismec installer?
I am almost sure that it can install the arctic fox, but if you want to control the abilites of the arctic fox from PC you'll have to use nfe tools.
 
GoldenBud,
  • Like
Reactions: Summer

Summer

Long Island, NY
I am almost sure that it can install the arctic fox, but if you want to control the abilites of the arctic fox from PC you'll have to use nfe tools.

But you can also control the AF settings from the mod itself not just from the PC? What is the advantage of controlling from the PC?
 
Summer,

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
But you can also control the AF settings from the mod itself not just from the PC? What is the advantage of controlling from the PC?
I find it faster to configure everthing from a PC. much faster. I think you can control almost all the configurations also from the mod itself without a PC.
 
GoldenBud,
  • Like
Reactions: Summer

RBTcole

Company Rep
Company Rep
I sent cole@rbt an email yesterday, was hoping he'd get back to me early today, but no response as yet.
I just called the customer service number on the site, straight to voicemail and the inbox is full. Can't leave a message.

Leads me to believe 1.theyre busy, 2. They probably won't respond to my email if they're not checking voicemail 3. If I put in an order, will it process n get shipped? Feeling hesitant

I don't have Instagram on my phone, and I just noticed I can't start a conversation here with RBT.

Can't put in an order until I speak to a representative. A lil disappointed. Any other direct avenues yall may know of to contact RBT?

Thanks
Hey Chandler, emailed you back. The phone number routes to Ryan, currently working on getting a business line set up so we can get that changed to my phone.

For those who are unaware I am running the shipping, website, and instagram from now on.

Also, going to be adding both clear and smoked kooling stems to the site tomorrow now that I have the inventory all counted up.

PS.. If you are on instagram we are doing a giveaway of a Custom Z that was wood burned by an great artist. it has a compass on one side and an anchor on the other.

Hope everyone is doing well!

Cole
 

dzunk

Well-Known Member
Well the unit too hot may line is still coming up with another mod. Got another rx gen3 and its still doing it. But its different, now i can have a few bowls before having to let it cool down. so it happens less frequently. Then i changed the batteries and the device got much hotter but it kept heating And was doing it even less frequently. I am doing something wrong? I usually have coil resistance at 0.39, as i vape it raises to 0.45-should i lock it at 0.39? How long do you keep the fire button pressed when running at 50W? I have not tried to go higher so far, but at 50w i keep holding it for 9s, it seems to me that the sign unit too hot doesnt show up when i push it several times instead of just holding it. Is someone experienced willing to describe the technique? Im thinking i maybe doing something wrong.

EDIT: how warm your splinters get when in use? is it normal that its very hot to touch after around 10 minutes of use?
 
Last edited:

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Well the unit too hot may line is still coming up with another mod. Got another rx gen3 and its still doing it. But its different, now i can have a few bowls before having to let it cool down. so it happens less frequently. Then i changed the batteries and the device got much hotter but it kept heating And was doing it even less frequently. I am doing something wrong? I usually have coil resistance at 0.39, as i vape it raises to 0.45-should i lock it at 0.39? How long do you keep the fire button pressed when running at 50W? I have not tried to go higher so far, but at 50w i keep holding it for 9s, it seems to me that the sign unit too hot doesnt show up when i push it several times instead of just holding it. Is someone experienced willing to describe the technique? Im thinking i maybe doing something wrong.

EDIT: how warm your splinters get when in use? is it normal that its very hot to touch after around 10 minutes of use?

50w is to high, I would recommend starting somewhere between 35-40w

I have not needed to go above 40w to get massive hits. I think rbt recommends that you do not go above 45w
In wattage I'm like @Stonedbadger: I start in the low thirties and never need to go past 40W with my Zs. I do a manual five second preheat at forty watts so the first hit isn't weak and that's it.

In TC my use is similar but I'll often just too a TC preheat even though the wattage drops off drastically since there's no draw taking heat from the mesh heater.

Do you have TC configured on your rxg3d? Since the heater only works as hard as it has to the Z doesn't get hot like you're describing. Mine doesn't get that hot in wattage either though.
 

david8613

Well-Known Member
Well the unit too hot may line is still coming up with another mod. Got another rx gen3 and its still doing it. But its different, now i can have a few bowls before having to let it cool down. so it happens less frequently. Then i changed the batteries and the device got much hotter but it kept heating And was doing it even less frequently. I am doing something wrong? I usually have coil resistance at 0.39, as i vape it raises to 0.45-should i lock it at 0.39? How long do you keep the fire button pressed when running at 50W? I have not tried to go higher so far, but at 50w i keep holding it for 9s, it seems to me that the sign unit too hot doesnt show up when i push it several times instead of just holding it. Is someone experienced willing to describe the technique? Im thinking i maybe doing something wrong.

EDIT: how warm your splinters get when in use? is it normal that its very hot to touch after around 10 minutes of use?

yeah man, that sounds too high, I ran my splinter z again last night at 36 watts, cloud city.
 
david8613,

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
@dzunk
I did 5 back to back bowls in my Z last night at 42w and my Splinter was warm at best. Granted it was -3°C so that helped keep it cool but I haven't found it getting hot yet, just warm, at least in my experience.
 
SquirrelMaster,
  • Like
Reactions: bossman

Chandler

Well-Known Member
Cot dayum. I placed my order yesterday,, tracking says my Z is out for delivery. :rockon:looks like I'll be getting Z'd up tonight after work!!

Interesting thing is, if I hadn't seen sneaky Petes discount, I wouldn't have the Z on my radar. Might never have made it to this team!

@Summer and every one else. So without adding firmware, the Z will work fine by holding the fire button? The different firmwares are specifically to keep the device fired without holding a button? (plus other little tweaks)? I have a mod for my G43 it has evic? Can't remember, but can I use that for Z? A wismec p80? I only use G43 up to 12 watts. That mod might not be rated for 30+ watts :hmm:
 

eideal852

Well-Known Member
Cot dayum. I placed my order yesterday,, tracking says my Z is out for delivery. :rockon:looks like I'll be getting Z'd up tonight after work!!

Interesting thing is, if I hadn't seen sneaky Petes discount, I wouldn't have the Z on my radar. Might never have made it to this team!

@Summer and every one else. So without adding firmware, the Z will work fine by holding the fire button? The different firmwares are specifically to keep the device fired without holding a button? (plus other little tweaks)? I have a mod for my G43 it has evic? Can't remember, but can I use that for Z? A wismec p80? I only use G43 up to 12 watts. That mod might not be rated for 30+ watts :hmm:
yes. when in doubt, use as directed! (wattage, press while you hit, release. nedd more than 10s? press again)
 

sesh732

Imaginable
Got my splinter z v2 last Friday. Wisemec Rx gen3 dual is my first mod ever.

Day 1: Wattage mode through DDaves stem, progressing from 28-40 watts. Good vapor but not consistent, still dialing in. Switched to RBTs long cooling stem and got more feedback so got some big clouds based on slight amount of heat I could feel. Man DDaves stem does some serious cooling! Looks like it could hold water too but I haven't tried that yet.

Day 2: some really low temp wake up hits in wattage mode, I learned to spin the stem to help even out hot spots. 25ish Watts. Cranked it up to 40+ to finish the bowl.

Day 3: Decided to get geeky with Arctic Fox, an hour later tried TC mode with cruise for the first time. 55 watts max, around 330F, I pulled like 6 medium sized super tasty hits off one bowl. It was still green. Played around with different temps all day, and I think I like tc mode a lot, especially after a few bowls when my ability to feather the button and monitor the temp myself has fallen off considerably. No burning or hot spots if I turn the stem between hits, even up to 415F.

Day 4: water time, got the attachment. Put in a chunk of wax and ripped TC mode at 430+F.

I think i have found the Holy Grail of vaporizers, for me at least being a non desktop user because of kids and legality in my area. I'll keep my dynavap around for camping trips but the rest are being shelved or sold. Hats off to RBT.

Couple questions: for TC mode folks, should I (or would you) change the PI settings in Arctic Fox?

And someone please talk me into or out of a custom splinter z. Other than good looks, what advantages does the custom offer?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Cot dayum. I placed my order yesterday,, tracking says my Z is out for delivery. :rockon:looks like I'll be getting Z'd up tonight after work!!

Interesting thing is, if I hadn't seen sneaky Petes discount, I wouldn't have the Z on my radar. Might never have made it to this team!

@Summer and every one else. So without adding firmware, the Z will work fine by holding the fire button? The different firmwares are specifically to keep the device fired without holding a button? (plus other little tweaks)? I have a mod for my G43 it has evic? Can't remember, but can I use that for Z? A wismec p80? I only use G43 up to 12 watts. That mod might not be rated for 30+ watts :hmm:

P80 is fine, you just may need to swap batteries more often than you'd like with the Z, also it is much smaller than the Z itself (but can still rest on a side without the Z touching the table at an angle)

10sec stock time out can be changed to 15 seconds I believe by holding fire and up button to access a secret menu... in both P80 and G3D.

Custom firmware allows you to increase this even further, and yes allows more option for autofire/cruise and temp control configuration. Stock FW is fine to use though, simpler with watts usually.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
@Chandler, here are the following softwares:
  1. stock vendor
  2. Arctic Fox
  3. surmyevic
  4. Tubo [aka funkyjunk(y)] which is a proprietary version of surmyevic
  5. Escribe only for DNA mods
Which one used depends on which your mod accepts.

You can run the Z & your P80 (which many if us have & use this mod) in plain old wattage mode up to 50 watts. When you start playing around with tcr mode, you can probably go as high as 60 watts. There are many, many posts concerning profile values for tcr in this thread. For now, just use plain wattage. Start at 32 watts & step up wattage with each draw if you desire. I only go up to 36 watts dry. There are many posts in thread as to user preferences. You gotta read or at least peruse through the thread.

In wattage mode, set the fire time to 15 seconds. If Tubo will allow a longer fire time of 20 or 25 seconds & you can draw that long use them. I use 15 sec. Press the fire button, hold & draw, & when it times out or you release the fire button continue to draw for an add'l. 2 - 3 sec. to cool the heater off. You may want to preheat the load from 2 - 10 sec before your 1st draw. You really must read the thread as I must have said all this a dozen times before.
 
Last edited:

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
And someone please talk me into or out of a custom splinter z. Other than good looks, what advantages does the custom offer?
The female ground glass joint is thicker on the custom ones, which some attribute to better build quality since the first Chinese production run had some glass issues that got ironed out in short order.

My ZV2 and ZV1 heat a bit more evenly than either of my custom Zs. I'd recommend a backup ZV2 rather than custom Z.

The other thing to do is get your mod and config game right. Each mod will give your Z a different feel and if you're seeing any hot spotting at all you still have room to improve your mod setup.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
The female ground glass joint is thicker on the custom ones,

IIRC, the German Schlott(sp.) glass is 2 millimeters thicker.

My ZV2 and ZV1 heat a bit more evenly than either of my custom Zs. I'd recommend a backup ZV2 rather than custom Z.

I have 2 Custom Splinters & only get 1 or 2 brown flakes. Never rotate the stem & only stir on the 5th or 6th hit to finish.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom