Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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HerbieVonVapster

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Maybe someone can shed some light on the Splinter Z profile for dna250c device that's posted in this thread. I just hooked up a Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250C to a Splinter Z Bubinga. Why is it that the preheat wattage is set to 65 Watts with a punch of 7 and the regular wattage is 55 when the manual only talks about a Max of 45 Watts? I realize that a punch of 7 means it won't get 65 watts but I can't find an exact scale for "punch". I don't get how preheat works since there isn't a time adjustment on Escribe. Do I hold the fire button ("firing") to preheat for a few seconds and then release and press again while drawing or is it all in one button press? My cut off is 10 seconds in Escribe so I imagine I should lengthen that so I don't have to re-press.

Also on the fcshare page it states to use an additional file if you have an older Splinter Z with a newer 19/19 stem. How do I tell if my stem is older stock or new?

Also I fucking love this thing.

I think RBT been using the 19/19 stems for least 6 months or longer now.

The cutoff should be 20 seconds in FCSHARE 10 second is when screen fade and sometimes get confused with fire lenght time.

There are 2 ways to adjust preheat setting in DNAc Either set a temperature you want preheat to cut power. This method find about 30 degrees lower than set temperatures works well.

Or can use punch. I decide on punch to allow larger range of temperature settings.
The preheat punch setting is how close to the set temperature when preheat wattage cuts off.

The preheat on mine hits can hit 58 watts to get to 445 when it's cold. I used 65 to cover possible variation in splinters.

It only needs that wattage to quickly get it to the pre heat temperatures and is well under a second. I wanted SplinterZ hit temperatures as quick possible. It will not exceed set preheat temperature so don't see any issue using a higher wattage for this setting.
There burned in at 60 watts for muti seconds in wattage. A split second at this wattage at much lower temperature will not damage it.
The FCSHARE files also have built in cutoff of 465 degrees and 65 watts for safety reasons.


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Easy check is to on main screen left lower corner is max watt used on the last hit. Right is average temperatures of last hit. Under setting can toggle to show puff. That will now switch main screen to show peak temperature.

Should be seeing it peaking around 5% higher than the set temperature. The average temp should be close to set temperature.

Can also check puff screen. Same info but adds a graph display. If seeing a big peak at start of the draw then adjust preheat setting down.
 
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I think messing with box mods may be more than I’m interested in doing, even though when it works well the high is fantastic. The results are just too variable for my liking.

I can see how most people would be turned off with the amount of work it is to get everything up and running. I've spent hours and hours researching box mods and I still feel very much in the dark after my first night with my setup. I love the challenge though. I want to know what every setting in Escribe is even if it doesn't pertain to my usage. That's just my personality. I installed a custom theme and was starting to design my own last night. What can I say, I like to tinker.


I'll have a look at EScribe when I'm home from work later today. Thanks for the reply. On https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/ what does the statement "If using an older SplinterZ with the newer 19/19 stems replace the material file with splinter material csv file." Which refers to the Heat.ini file.

The newer splinters are all 19/19 right? However the older versions were 19/26 or something like that? The wording is throwing me off.
 
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Every time I use this I get a different experience. Last night, using the same exact TC settings I was using before, I got a temp protect warning when trying to fire. I reduced the wattage and was able to get some thick hits but then also got some super thin ones. I switched to wattage mode and ended up with a serious hot spot. I think messing with box mods may be more than I’m interested in doing, even though when it works well the high is fantastic. The results are just too variable for my liking.

Issue normal is due to cold ohms being incorrect set did you remeasure coil when warm?


I can see how most people would be turned off with the amount of work it is to get everything up and running. I've spent hours and hours researching box mods and I still feel very much in the dark after my first night with my setup. I love the challenge though. I want to know what every setting in Escribe is even if it doesn't pertain to my usage. That's just my personality. I installed a custom theme and was starting to design my own last night. What can I say, I like to tinker.

Best way to learn this is to dive in. The files are out there get you started. Use device monitor it is a wonderful tool for tweaking things :) Backups stored in toolbar under help just in case you need them.

Thanks I missed that it wasn't there should be corrected now :)
Splinter.csv
 
HerbieVonVapster,
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Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
Issue normal is due to cold ohms being incorrect set did you remeasure coil when warm?




Best way to learn this is to dive in. The files are out there get you started. Use device monitor it is a wonderful tool for tweaking things :) Backups stored in toolbar under help just in case you need them.

Thanks I missed that it wasn't there should be corrected now :)
Splinter.csv

I’m supposed to remeasure the coil when it’s warm? I had no idea. Do I need to do that more than once per session?
 
Monk Debate,
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Every time I use this I get a different experience. Last night, using the same exact TC settings I was using before, I got a temp protect warning when trying to fire. I reduced the wattage and was able to get some thick hits but then also got some super thin ones. I switched to wattage mode and ended up with a serious hot spot. I think messing with box mods may be more than I’m interested in doing, even though when it works well the high is fantastic. The results are just too variable for my liking.

Stick to wattage mode, configuring TC yourself is more involved as you see. These were designed for watts though and work much more simply that way (sure TC is simple when set well, why most of us use DNA mods for it if so)

The newer splinters are all 19/19 right? However the older versions were 19/26 or something like that? The wording is throwing me off.

It was 19/22, standard US 18.8mm joint length (26 is ISO standard), and the Custom Zs still have 19/22 with the thick German glass now. New standard Splinters (from China) are 19/19 so the V and ZV models use nonstandard glass
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I’m supposed to remeasure the coil when it’s warm? I had no idea. Do I need to do that more than once per session?

Sorry remeasuring coil when cold. Everything with TC mod revolves around the resistance change to the coil OHMs.

If you check info screen you should see a room temperature and board temperature. Remeasure when there at ambient temperature. Board temp might be couple degrees higher due to heat from being on.

Once remeasure it shouldn't ask you to remeasure. If it does and everything working tell it no and use old settings instead.
 

TiSteamo

VAPEnsiero... sull'ali dorate...
[@TiSteamo, every vape like every cannabis strain has it's own head/high. And maybe you vaped an indica & not a sativa, that's why you got couch-locked?.Also if you get too high, just smoke less. ;)

The weed was the same one used on the Swift Pro.
But the effect was different. Can you explain to me why?


Was it you that was coming from a Swift pro? I tried to warn you that this is a much more powerful vape than that!

So is it a matter of wattage?
Lowering the watts could I get a less powerful effect?
 
TiSteamo,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
The weed was the same one used on the Swift Pro.
But the effect was different. Can you explain to me why?




So is it a matter of wattage?
Lowering the watts could I get a less powerful effect?

Yes, but also, this is purer convection so it is just stronger (swift keeps the heater running, bowl is internal, etc. there are many differences aside from just the wattage) You should try taking fewer hits, loading less, taking smaller hits, along with lower wattages. Even a hit at the same wattage as Swift (whatever that is) will still be stronger in the Splinter...
 

TiSteamo

VAPEnsiero... sull'ali dorate...
Yes, but also, this is purer convection so it is just stronger (swift keeps the heater running, bowl is internal, etc. there are many differences aside from just the wattage) You should try taking fewer hits, loading less, taking smaller hits, along with lower wattages. Even a hit at the same wattage as Swift (whatever that is) will still be stronger in the Splinter...
I'm glad I took the Splinter Z, is definitely a great buy (especially since it was on offer for 4/20) but could you recommend a device similar to Swift Pro (convection) with replaceable batteries (18650)?
 

Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
People are mentioning packing the bowl with less material to reduce hot spots, how much is a reasonable amount to pack? I’ve got the standard rimmed baskets that come packaged with the Z and I fill it loosely to the top, which feels like a lot to me as I’m used to the smaller amounts I put in my Dynavap. Would filling it up halfway be better?
 

Hammahead

Well-Known Member
Stick to wattage mode, configuring TC yourself is more involved as you see. These were designed for watts though and work much more simply that way (sure TC is simple when set well, why most of us use DNA mods for it if so)

I hear you so crystal clear man... with wattage mode it's more of an adventure but it's a lot easier to grasp and work on. It's just so tempting to really cut off at a set temperature though. In the beginning, I thought the occasional combustion incident wasn't that bad, but over the last weeks, I learned to love it when it's not happening, and if it was only for cleaning the stinky muck. The new coil material settings made it a much more reliable experience for me, so I doubt I'll ever want to go back to wattage, even when that kind of feels more natural. In TC mode as it is now, I feel the SplinterZ is pretty near to the Grasshopper experience, just way more relaxed.

how much is a reasonable amount to pack?
For me I found it's best to have just enough material in the bowl that it's barely sticking together.
 

TiSteamo

VAPEnsiero... sull'ali dorate...
No, @Summer, I don't want to start a new thread. I'll do some research, I'm not in a hurry, I just wanted to hear some of your opinions.
You know, I'm new to vaping, and I still have a lot to learn. I believe that yesterday I was too enthusiastic and therefore hasty to try it and to immediately test its power and he showed it to me! :D
I smoked twenty thousand joints in my life so I have some experience on that.
The effect of Z is very strong, but really not unpleasant! :)
I am still studying it and slowly, as with all things, I will learn to know him better, listening to your advice too …

 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I'm glad I took the Splinter Z, is definitely a great buy (especially since it was on offer for 4/20) but could you recommend a device similar to Swift Pro (convection) with replaceable batteries (18650)?

No, @Summer, I don't want to start a new thread. I'll do some research, I'm not in a hurry, I just wanted to hear some of your opinions.
You know, I'm new to vaping, and I still have a lot to learn. I believe that yesterday I was too enthusiastic and therefore hasty to try it and to immediately test its power and he showed it to me! :D
I smoked twenty thousand joints in my life so I have some experience on that.
The effect of Z is very strong, but really not unpleasant! :)
I am still studying it and slowly, as with all things, I will learn to know him better, listening to your advice too …


Summer just meant since this is the Splinter Z thread, it is off topic for us to suggest others here, so if you start a thread in Ask FC we can all have a broader discussion :spliff:

(I would definitely say no to the Ghost though, you want session convection, so thats FocusV Aero, HR Fury2/ PotV One, xvape Fog, to name a few options)
 

TiSteamo

VAPEnsiero... sull'ali dorate...
I think it's a question of "approach" rather than "wattage".
Let's say that yesterday I hit the ground running! :D

I am not against "on demand" rather than "session mode", indeed!
I was looking for an alternative with replaceable batteries in case the good Swiftie left me like any good device that has the built-in battery …
But with Z i'm fine for now! :tup:
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I think it's a question of "approach" rather than "wattage".
Let's say that yesterday I hit the ground running! :D

I am not against "on demand" rather than "session mode", indeed!
I was looking for an alternative with replaceable batteries in case the good Swiftie left me like any good device that has the built-in battery …
But with Z i'm fine for now! :tup:

Yupyup, I got you lol Fog for that, Z for everything else. Once you get the hang of it with time, you might even be surprised how versatile an RBT vape can be ;)
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Easy check is to on main screen left lower corner is max watt used on the last hit. Right is average temperatures of last hit. Under setting can toggle to show puff. That will now switch main screen to show peak temperature.

Just realized max wattage is average wattage of the last puff. Click it for a second will give give a better ideal of maxs wattage used.
 

Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
Had another session last night, packed far more loosely with less material, tried hard to modulate my draws to be not too slow, not too fast. I started at 375 at 40 watts and towards the end went up to 380 at 44 watts. I mostly got hot air. I did get a good high, just very little vapor. I’m not super concerned about clouds but I’m still not loving how variable the experience is from use to use. I may end up letting this one go and waiting for the Sprout to come out instead. Box mods don’t feel like my thing.
 
Monk Debate,

just_the_flu

they say im crazy but i have a good time
... @Monk Debate , have you tried in watt mode or only tc? just wondering if your getting same mixed results in watt mode or if its a tc thing... i have yet to try tc and prolly wont... im happy manually doing watt mode...
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Had another session last night, packed far more loosely with less material, tried hard to modulate my draws to be not too slow, not too fast. I started at 375 at 40 watts and towards the end went up to 380 at 44 watts. I mostly got hot air. I did get a good high, just very little vapor. I’m not super concerned about clouds but I’m still not loving how variable the experience is from use to use. I may end up letting this one go and waiting for the Sprout to come out instead. Box mods don’t feel like my thing.

Yeah, again I say, stop messing with TC and just try watts. Seems to explain the issue you are having to me :2c::peace:

Edit: also try raising the temp? Remember it is not measuring actual load temp so it is totally relative and those may be pretty low... Certainly a five degree increment wouldn't do much to help extract more in my experience with DNA mod FC profiles for TC
 
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Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
I have tried watt mode in previous sessions and ended up with bigger clouds but also serious hot spots.
 
Monk Debate,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I have tried watt mode in previous sessions and ended up with bigger clouds but also serious hot spots.

Keep honing your technique, I don't know how long you have had it now, but it can take a while for some, especially if used to other vapes (and still using them currently as you try to learn the new one). Good luck and enjoy the variables!
 

Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
Thank you all for the continued advice! I will keep playing with it. I’ll say that no matter what vapor results I’m getting, I still get a very pleasant and mellow body high every time I use the Z, and my plant material turns to brown, so something must be working right.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Had another session last night, packed far more loosely with less material, tried hard to modulate my draws to be not too slow, not too fast. I started at 375 at 40 watts and towards the end went up to 380 at 44 watts. I mostly got hot air. I did get a good high, just very little vapor. I’m not super concerned about clouds but I’m still not loving how variable the experience is from use to use. I may end up letting this one go and waiting for the Sprout to come out instead. Box mods don’t feel like my thing.
For me the best tweak is to set the resistance higher than my mods typically read it when cold. I run my Z at .4ohms. I don't recall where the watts were but on my dna mods it's 50W.

Also it's worth repeating that all cheap TC mods aren't created equal. I've owned three so far and the wismec rx gen3 dual was easily the most rewarding in the pursuit of big dense clouds.

On this thread and the Splinter thread we come across this same situation where a new user is understandably antsy to get the amazing performance the rest of us are familiar with. Any config hassles are worth it though. Now that I have several Splinters on appropriate mods the world of settings is just a flexibility advantage. Hope you're able to stick it out.
 
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