Silver Surfer Vaporizer
- Thread starter vtac
- Start date
Hot Dog Day 187
Well-Known Member
zor
Well-Known Member
Whelp, I did a quick n dirty check, learned that there is far more variability in measuring temperature than I anticipated. I think I need another pair of arms as there is a minimum distance needed for measuring accuracy plus given the small areas it's hard to be very precise. That said, here's what I got....
Started off with some ground up Kandy Kush
Baseline temp measurement. This seems a bit high to me, given that my thermostat is set at 70 and it wasn't a balmy day in the Boston area....
Checking the heating element, this is almost the highest temp I was able to read when directing the temp gun at the filament itself. My dial is set to the 12:00 position but I don't think this is very helpful info as we don't have a clear, consistent zero point on the dial given how we each can put the glass dial on at different orientations. Still, this is also a good baseline to have for the subsequent pics.
Popped my wand in and let it sit for a bit. Wanted to get a sense of the temp at the junction, this was the highest reading I was able to get. Not sure how useful this info is.
Took the wand out after about 9-10 minutes of it just sitting in the heat cover, wanted to see what the ambient temp is. This is of the glass rim of the wand, admittedly about 30-60 seconds after removing it so there was indeed heat loss and this is not quite accurate.
Checking the temp of the herb in the wand.
Next I took a nice strong pull and took the temp. Again, this is the glass rim.
And this is the loaded weed.
So I'm not sure what to make of some of these measurements, they were only taken once and I have no clue what my margin of error is, so if anything enjoy them with a chunk of salt. What I do think is valuable info is that I feel quite confident that fresh herb loaded in the chamber will not be vaporized if there is no air flow. I think we can easily confirm this visually, there is no color change in the herb, but it's nice to have some temperature reference point.
Started off with some ground up Kandy Kush
Baseline temp measurement. This seems a bit high to me, given that my thermostat is set at 70 and it wasn't a balmy day in the Boston area....
Checking the heating element, this is almost the highest temp I was able to read when directing the temp gun at the filament itself. My dial is set to the 12:00 position but I don't think this is very helpful info as we don't have a clear, consistent zero point on the dial given how we each can put the glass dial on at different orientations. Still, this is also a good baseline to have for the subsequent pics.
Popped my wand in and let it sit for a bit. Wanted to get a sense of the temp at the junction, this was the highest reading I was able to get. Not sure how useful this info is.
Took the wand out after about 9-10 minutes of it just sitting in the heat cover, wanted to see what the ambient temp is. This is of the glass rim of the wand, admittedly about 30-60 seconds after removing it so there was indeed heat loss and this is not quite accurate.
Checking the temp of the herb in the wand.
Next I took a nice strong pull and took the temp. Again, this is the glass rim.
And this is the loaded weed.
So I'm not sure what to make of some of these measurements, they were only taken once and I have no clue what my margin of error is, so if anything enjoy them with a chunk of salt. What I do think is valuable info is that I feel quite confident that fresh herb loaded in the chamber will not be vaporized if there is no air flow. I think we can easily confirm this visually, there is no color change in the herb, but it's nice to have some temperature reference point.
Hot Dog Day 187
Well-Known Member
Just to let you guys know I haven't used a whip with my SSV once since my last post, and I've used it well over a dozen times!
@zor mine stays on my preferred temp all day long because i would rather have truly immediate medication whenever i need it rather than waiting for anything to heat up!! i would rather have to replace the ceramic element than wait for it to get to my preferred temp whenever i want to hit it.
@zor mine stays on my preferred temp all day long because i would rather have truly immediate medication whenever i need it rather than waiting for anything to heat up!! i would rather have to replace the ceramic element than wait for it to get to my preferred temp whenever i want to hit it.
Tweak
T\/\/34|<
A nano GonG also works for really small loads, but it's easy to roll off the edge with the SSV in hand.
Is it getting easier to hold? I know it was super awkward for me at first, now I just grab the entire base with one hand.
I recommend snagging an LSV if you can get one cheap (Black Friday maybe), the SSV's HC fit fine and it's easier to hold.
Hot Dog Day 187
Well-Known Member
Yup I might do that with the LSV if they go on sale. It's definitely easier for me to grab the whole SSV now.
Agreed a nano gong is pretty small for this purpose - i should see about using something bigger. i was reading the HI thread and thought about getting some silicone roasting tubes to try this with.
shredder
Well-Known Member
I came home last night and saw that I had forgotten to turn my SSV off from the night before. Whoops! Immediately made a beeline to the whip and enjoyed the remainder of the loadout before starting to cook dinner
I often keep mine on all day if I know I'll be vaping throughout. I may have mentioned this before but I have a laser themometer and have used it to spot check the herb when loaded in a wand that's attached to the heat cover and the herb temp does not rise significantly, relatively speaking. The glass wand does heat up, however, when I get home I'll try to remember to take some measurements and post em here, just to allay any concerns that you're vaping precious weed while idle
My surfer has been on since last spring I think. I leave my enano on 24/7 as well.
Hot Dog Day 187
Well-Known Member
same, it also stays on 3/4 heat almost all that time too, i would just rather destroy a ceramic rod and need to buy a new one than have to wait to vape anytime i need medication...
edit: that said this is a SSV from the first year of production and is still going strong after YEARS of 24/7 use on a fairly high heat setting
edit: that said this is a SSV from the first year of production and is still going strong after YEARS of 24/7 use on a fairly high heat setting
Last edited:
TeeJay1952
Well-Known Member
Try it and tell us. That is what FC is about. Share YOUR story.
grokit
well-worn member
It's fine. You will have to clean the screen more often, and the wand/hose less often
zor
Well-Known Member
I've used a few different tpes of screens and find that the finer ones get clogged more quickly. Not a problem since they're easily replaced but I prefer free-er flowing airways as I have calibrated the dial to a certain airflow (if that makes any sense...when the air pathway is more congested the air moves more slowly at the same pull strength than what a new/clean screen provides, so i've found the weed gets vaped at a higher temp)
Tweak
T\/\/34|<
Weird, I've found the opposite, well kinda.
Really fine (EQ elbow) I need less cleaning because the dust/debris can't fit into the holes to clog them, blowing them out clears most dust. With medium fine (what I consider standard screens), they clog the worse. And my thickest coarse screens rarely get clogged but let way too much dust through where I need a second screen to filter.
I would guess that this might change depending on strain or moisture content of the material.
Paradox
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the feedback, FC rocks ! 
Drawing slowly for longer seems to increases the heat; at 1 I get the same effect as a faster/shorter draw at 2. That seems to make sense and is a real factor to me, how clogged the finer mesh gets and the amount of airflow I get from a draw. I use an mflb bristle brush to clear congestion on my screen, it does a fine job so my wands airway is mostly clear, I hope it performs as well on a finer mesh. I feel a difference in temp when it's clogged. Hot air doesn't have as much an effect on herb without airflow, it kinda just stays there not passing through. I prefer freer flow, too.
That makes sense, no unclogging required if particles don't fit and it'd be easier to clear with a blowout, a real + point for the fine mesh. Thanks for the size comparison in coarse medium fine meshes in terms of clogging, that really helps and I think that moisture/sticky is a big clogging factor.
Drawing slowly for longer seems to increases the heat; at 1 I get the same effect as a faster/shorter draw at 2. That seems to make sense and is a real factor to me, how clogged the finer mesh gets and the amount of airflow I get from a draw. I use an mflb bristle brush to clear congestion on my screen, it does a fine job so my wands airway is mostly clear, I hope it performs as well on a finer mesh. I feel a difference in temp when it's clogged. Hot air doesn't have as much an effect on herb without airflow, it kinda just stays there not passing through. I prefer freer flow, too.
That makes sense, no unclogging required if particles don't fit and it'd be easier to clear with a blowout, a real + point for the fine mesh. Thanks for the size comparison in coarse medium fine meshes in terms of clogging, that really helps and I think that moisture/sticky is a big clogging factor.
Last edited:
bluesunshine
New Member
Does anyone have any experience using the Wax Maxer? I have not been able to find out any information regarding this product other than a short description on the 7th Floor website.
http://7thfloorvapes.com/index.php/...trate-accessories/the-wax-maxer-titanium.html
http://7thfloorvapes.com/index.php/...concentrate-accessories/wax-maxer-quartz.html
http://7thfloorvapes.com/index.php/...trate-accessories/the-wax-maxer-titanium.html
http://7thfloorvapes.com/index.php/...concentrate-accessories/wax-maxer-quartz.html
grokit
well-worn member
Or even the outlet, the voltage can fluctuate on a different one or the same one at a different time.
hoptimum
Well-Known Member
I bought a new standard heater cover and noticed that it wasn't getting anywhere near as hot as my previous one. I compared them, and the air hole on the new one is significantly higher than the older one. I'm pretty sure this is making a difference, since the lower air hole seems to allow incoming air to have more contact with the ceramic rod. Has anyone else noticed this?
shredder
Well-Known Member
Makes sense. I know it can be touchy.
I bought my ssv used and the heater was low in the cover, but it moved up easy, and now I don't have to crank up the heat like I used to.
hoptimum
Well-Known Member
I was really surprised to notice there was so much variation in the placement of the air intake hole.
Taproots
Member
It's all (the covers and stuff) hand blown so that's where the hole variation comes from, but the effect it can exert still surprises me, even moving the angle of the element can change the way it behaves.
When I first got my SSV it required the slowest draws and the highest heat setting to get even light vapor, once I got comfortable enough to properly readjust the heating element (pull it up, orient it straight) it became the monster we know and love.
There's actually a couple youtube reviews saying it's worse than the DBV and doesn't produce vapor, I'm pretty confident that they probably have a too low or weirdly placed heating element out of the box.
grokit
well-worn member
Interesting, I always thought that temperature variation due to hc's was more about the size of the hole.
hoptimum
Well-Known Member
same here, but this hole is way the hell up there, almost to the 90 degree bend