Silver Surfer Vaporizer

[Vitolo]

And since we know one another well here... and each others habits... this synchronization serves as a point of reference among us... the regular SSV fans and inhabitants of this thread!
What it serves to do is help us help newbies without each giving a variant reference point.

• go team SSV..
• Ride The wave!
• Rock On
• Weeeeee (That's what the little piggy said)

 

[tuk]

I would strongly advise against this as you will be almost certain to inhale toxic fumes along with your weed.

Instead, I've shoved a short length of whip inside my wand with a screen underneath and on top. This creates a raised platform for my load closer to the heat.

 

[ThCombustion]

It is "out for delivery." I have been standing with my nose pressed against a window that faces the road for hours. Every now and then I walk away for 10 seconds and then walk back and lean against the door with my nose again. Rinse and repeat. There are 100 little smudges on the glass. Hurry up mailman!

 

[chimpybits]

I would strongly advise against this as you will be almost certain to inhale toxic fumes along with your weed.

It did occur to me that the 7th floor vinyl may be too close to the heat source. No matter as I'll be selling my SSV soon.

 

[tuk]

The first time I tried the ssv, it was useless, even at max temp not a single cloud, in the end I tipped the wand into a bong and set it on fire, a few days later when I had more time I followed Tweak's screen mod guide:

http://imgur.com/a/z0JfT

straight off the bat at 60% heat setting I was blowing huge clouds, even seeing combustion, which is great cos it means plenty of ceiling for concentrates.

I tried everything to remove the hoop without tearing, in the end I used a pair of high quality wire snips and cut very close to the hoop which gave me a very clean, uniform cut for the screen bowl.

 

[ThCombustion]

Hey Guys. I got my surfer and love it. Working great, way better than my Vapor Genie. The quality of vapor is great, reminds me of my PD. I got the hands free metal thing. I can get it on great but I'm afraid it's going to scratch the glass of the wand. Any tips for preventing that?

Edit": I stuck the mouthpiece in and want to remove it, but I cannot, no matter how much strength I leverage against it, it will not budge a nanometer.

 

[Vitolo]

use a fingernail.
inch around and around... plucking the tube downward.
after each trip all the way around, pull a bit.
it will come.

 

[ThCombustion]

Hi, I am trying to adjust the heating element, as I don't believe it's high enough. I watched this video by SSV:

When I try to pull up on the element it comes out more, but as soon as I release it, it goes right back to the same height. How can I successfully adjust the element to be a bit higher?

~ThC

 

[ThCombustion]

Something else that I'd like to know about a lot. I was looking down in the housing while trying to get the heater to raise. It is on something that lets you pull it and lets it recede. I noticed when I pulled the heater to what felt like it's comfortable limits that it was attached to a metal base. It's not solid, but has a "slit" every now and then. I saw when I pulled it that what looks like a white material, similar to the look of plastic protruding through some of these slits. Any idea what this is. Worried, hope I didn't break anything...

 

[tuk]

Hi, I am trying to adjust the heating element, as I don't believe it's high enough.

Why don't you believe it's high enough? pics?

Bear in mind that video uses the SPHERICAL GROUND GLASS HC, which means your visual reference for gauging correct element height will be different( if using Standard Glass HC).

When I look through my Standard HC exit hole, I can't see the tip of the heating element, it too low down...however my SSV achieves combustion at only 60% power.

 

[Clunis]

It is on something that lets you pull it and lets it recede. I noticed when I pulled the heater to what felt like it's comfortable limits that it was attached to a metal base. It's not solid, but has a "slit" every now and then. I saw when I pulled it that what looks like a white material, similar to the look of plastic protruding through some of these slits. Any idea what this is. Worried, hope I didn't break anything...

The new tension clip style stands are spring loaded, that's why it's receding. The white material is in mine to and I don't believe it's anything to worry about (looks like some sort of threading to me), definitely not broken

I've been thinking... I'm not sure how important the position of the heating element would be. I've noticed that the heater cover keeps the heat inside in fairly well. Like really well, I touched test, lmao, the sweat beads on my hand sizzled when I barely made contact (don't worry I'm fine, I play guitar and have large callouses on my finger tips that provide decent heat protection ). So, with this in mind, I would think that the air gets predominantly heated by the overall heat inside the HC? This would make the heater element position minimally important, in my opinion.

[EDIT]: I just received my replacement parts in the mail, completely free of any duty charges or taxes. I also received a bonus standard HC! I'm very pleased, thanks 7th floor! Now let's get this standard wand going! Woooooooo!

[EDIT 2]: This standard wand has me chokin', hahaha so excited feeling exactly like that emoticon.

 

[Tweak]

I've been thinking... I'm not sure how important the position of the heating element would be. I've noticed that the heater cover keeps the heat inside in fairly well. Like really well, I touched test, lmao, the sweat beads on my hand sizzled when I barely made contact (don't worry I'm fine, I play guitar and have large callouses on my finger tips that provide decent heat protection ). So, with this in mind, I would think that the air gets predominantly heated by the overall heat inside the HC? This would make the heater element position minimally important, in my opinion.

My theory is the heat retained by the glass is only part of the heat source. IMO, the air coming in the intake hole has to pass over the sweet spot of the heating element to lift the heat away to be the most efficient. I can see my heater dimming while I draw.

The heated air inside the HC is displaced pretty fast when you draw, there is a large volume of air going into your lungs.

I also believe the size and shape of the HC is a big factor, along with the size of the intake and outlet holes. If the intake is bigger than the outlet, performance suffers dramatically.

 

[ThCombustion]

Why don't you believe it's high enough? pics?

Bear in mind that video uses the SPHERICAL GROUND GLASS HC, which means your visual reference for gauging correct element height will be different( if using Standard Glass HC).

When I look through my Standard HC exit hole, I can't see the tip of the heating element, it too low down...however my SSV achieves combustion at only 60% power.

I plan to get pics up as soon as I can, but it may be a few days. It's really pretty.

I have the spherical gg. I can never even get it close to the top of the heater cover no matter what; it only reaches to the top of the neck of the hc. I think I solved the problem though. At first, I was just barely touching the wand to the hc and was getting poor results. Now I am pressing firmly but gently into it. I'm noticing when I do this it actually makes the heating element go into the middle of the hc. Generally the hc sits where the heating element is close to the back wall of it. When I press the wand firmly in, it moves the heater cover up, where the element is directly in the middle and then I get great hits.

Is this how most of you guys do it?

 

[ThCombustion]

The new tension clip style stands are spring loaded, that's why it's receding. The white material is in mine to and I don't believe it's anything to worry about (looks like some sort of threading to me), definitely not broken
that emoticon.

Thank you for checking. Would anyone else check? Does anyone know enough about how they are made to speak to what this white threading is? I notice small pieces of it coming through some of slits in the metal base the heater is attached to. When I pull the heating element up gently, it forces this "white threading" out of the slits more.

I never pulled on the ceramic heater very hard at all. I'm wondering what it is (the threading), was its appearance caused by trying to increase the height of the element(I never looked before I tried to move the element so I don't know.) If anyone has never tried to move their element, I'd like to hear from you about if you can see some, not very much, threading coming through the slits. or was it already present? If it was caused by messing with the element, is it something to worry about? Is it ok to be in the heated air path.

Sorry guys, for some reason it weighs heavy on my mind, cause I don't want to have possibly damaged it or have things exposed to the air path that maybe shouldn't be.

Just a slightly paranoid stoner.

 

[Clunis]

^ You could try calling Chris about the threading, he's pretty good to talk to from my experience

 

[ThCombustion]

I'll try to call them tomorrow as I still have no idea what the white threading is.

I tried something and it worked out rather well. I can't speak to other heater covers, as I have the spherical gg, but I took my Vapor Genie, filled with bud, but without the topper on it, and bent down slightly and mated it to the heater cover, inhaled and breathed out a nice cloud. All glass air path. I feel like I have a new wand. Also, if you put the topper on but take out the ceramic disk, the tubing fits perfectly in it and you can use it that way.

Try it if you have one

 

[tuk]

Does anyone know enough about how they are made to speak to what this white threading is? I notice small pieces of it coming through some of slits in the metal base the heater is attached to. When I pull the heating element up gently, it forces this "white threading" out of the slits more.

Guessing:
I would say the white threads are from the jacket/insulation of the electrical cables attached to the ceramic heater. The white threads could be some kind sheath made from heat retardant material.

Something like this...

1100°F / 593°C Continuous Exposure: Higher Intermittent
This high temperature, heat & flame resistant knitted fiberglass sleeve is fabricated from high quality type E fiberglass that will not burn and will withstand continuous exposure to temperatures of 1100°F / 593°C. This high temperature sleeve provides protection for industrial wires, cables, hoses (hydraulics), tubing and pipes, along with providing thermal insulation and personnel protection.

 

[ThCombustion]

Guessing:
I would say the white threads are from the jacket/insulation of the electrical cables attached to the ceramic heater. The white threads could be some kind sheath made from heat retardant material.

Something like this...

1100°F / 593°C Continuous Exposure: Higher Intermittent
This high temperature, heat & flame resistant knitted fiberglass sleeve is fabricated from high quality type E fiberglass that will not burn and will withstand continuous exposure to temperatures of 1100°F / 593°C. This high temperature sleeve provides protection for industrial wires, cables, hoses (hydraulics), tubing and pipes, along with providing thermal insulation and personnel protection.

Cool man, you have certainly helped put my mind at ease. Thanks for the effort in finding the info and picture. I have been using it the whole time and am loving it. This is a great forum.

Anyway, I know people may think this is silly, but I have the spherical gg. One time when loading a bowl I was holding it close to the heater cover and thought maybe since the spherical could create a seal at angles, I might be able to use it with just the wand. I put it in and took of the tubing and was able to hit it with just the wand. After that I tried angling the SSV and now with my right hand I pull the SSV back, which makes the heater cover opening much more in line with my face , making it easier to use this way. I can even move the wand around like normal as I take the hit. I'm trying to think of something I might use as a stand to prop the SSV into this position.

I know it is kinda silly as it works great with the tubing, ect, but as it is usually sitting fairly close to my face, I have actually found it less effort to bend my head down slightly and take a hit this way; though honestly, I have been finding my Vapor Genie as my go to wand for the moment, as the way it is angle lets me mate it to the cover easily without having to manipulate the SSV at all. Using the normal wand and the VG this way, I hope to get some pretty good wand hash. They are both starting to coat nicely.

Just thought I'd share my experimens with you guys. Loving the SSV.

Once again, thank you Tuk for the information.

 

[Clunis]

The basic vaporizer check video says the heating element should be 1/8" to 1/4" from the top. When using my GG HC the heating element is just barely visible above the bottom of my HC. I'd guess it's about 3/4" from the top. The intake hole is about 1/3 to halfway up the the red glowing part of the element, so the air is hardly able to pass over the element at all I think.

Has anyone here figured out how to adjust heating element position with these new tension clip stands? And is 7th floor customer service open on weekends? My guess is no but doesn't hurt to try

 

[dutchm]

I just got my SSV and I have a question about the amount of vapor I'm getting. This is my first time using a vaporizer so I don't know what to expect. I turn it up all the way for 2 mins then back to 12 position. I got the ground glass one so my wand stays in place. The screen is just a flat one and it looks like this ) except the round part is facing up. Anyway I'm using high quality bud and put in enough to cover the screen. I draw slowly for about 8 secs and I get a decent amount but not huge clouds like I've seen in videos. If I draw for much longer then that I start coughing a lot lol.. The hit isn't harsh but I guess I'm not used to it.. Any tips or do I have wrong expectations

 

[Vitolo]

...If I draw for much longer then that I start coughing a lot lol.. The hit isn't harsh but I guess I'm not used to it.. Any tips or do I have wrong expectations

Your expectations are OK.
You need to practice with varying amounts of meds, and draw techniques....
you yourself said, if you draw much longer you cough... your ability to tolerate the hot vapor will increase, and your loads will increase, and in correlation the clouds will too.

 

[oli]

Just stepping from my home EQ thread for a quickie:

Has anyone tried the LONG VapeXale EZ load Bowls through a Silver Surfer elbow?

 

[Tweak]

Has anyone tried the LONG VapeXale EZ load Bowls through a Silver Surfer elbow?

If I recall correctly, I was using my SSV WPA to fit the ELB, to suck the material up, until I broke it.

But even then, I doubt all SSV WPA have been the same size throughout the years.

 

[Vitolo]

The EZ load fits into the 18mm SSV elbow.
It is the same size in diameter as the Extreme Q basket.

 

[oli]

The EZ load fits into the 18mm SSV elbow.
It is the same size in diameter as the Extreme Q basket.

Thanks good to hear and have you tried those long baskets, are you happy with them? Not too much assle filling them up, and do they burn evently enough, or is it a case of mixing it through now and then?