Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

[Frederick McGuire]

@2clicker

I recommended 1/32 ptfe sheet because it's thick and sturdy enough to be long term reusable, which is definitely preferable to disposal and waste. I estimate oil slick sheet is about 2 mils thick, which means 1/32 sheet would be about 15 times thicker. If that's not tough enough, 1/16 or 1/8 definitely would be, but you'd start having to deal with heat transfer and retention issues with those (as mentioned above).

@farscaper I had not heard of that issue with oil slick pads, but I believe it. I've had similar durability issues, now I think thick PTFE is the way to go, at least until we find something better.

If PTFE film is ecologically irresponsible, then parchment is worse because there's no way PTFE can be recycled once it's blended with paper.

What does 1/32 refer to?
1/32 of an inch?
An inch is ~25.4mm, so 1/32 would be like ~0.8mm

I'd agree that my oil slicks look to be roughly 1-2mm thick, which is roughly 1/16 inch.
15 times thicker than that is Pretty close to a full inch.

(Not trying to be pedantic, just want to be clear on measurements )

 

[shark sandwich]

@farscaper

Thanks for correcting my error! I did some research to further educate myself and found that not only is silicone very safe and environmentally friendly like you say, but PTFE may not be as safe when pressing.

I found the following excerpt here: http://www.ewg.org/research/canaries-kitchen/teflon-offgas-studies

"Studies show that thermal degradation of Teflon leads to the slow breakdown of the fluorinated polymer and the generation of a litany of toxic fumes including TFE (tetrafluoroethylene), HFP (hexafluoropropene), OFCB (octafluorocyclobutane), PFIB (perfluoroisobutane), carbonyl fluoride, CF4 (carbon tetrafluoride), TFA (trifluoroacetic acid), trifluoroacetic acid fluoride, perfluorobutane, SiF4 (silicon tetrafluoride), HF (hydrofluoric acid), and particulate matter. At least four of these gases are extremely toxic - PFIB, which is a chemical warfare agent 10 times more toxic than phosgene (COCl2, a chemical warfare agent used during World Wars I and II), carbonyl fluoride (COF2 which is the fluorine analog of phosgene), MFA (monofluoroacetic acid) which can kill people at low doses, and HF, a highly corrosive gas."

That degradation and outgassing doesn't become significant until about 325F. So depending on what PTFE you're using and how you're using it, you may have a little outgassing happen.

Polyimide film is the most thermally stable plastic film I know of, but 5 mils is the maximum thickness available. It should still be worth a shot- it doesn't outgas until at least 750F and would offer a great view of the action.


@Frederick McGuire

No sweat! You got it right, I meant 1/32 inch, .03 inch, or .8mm thick ptfe sheet. But I was comparing that to the oil slick sheet from the roll, which is about .002 inches or 2 mils thick.

I realize now my post didn't read well, I've edited it to make it clearer.

 

[Frederick McGuire]

@Frederick McGuire

No sweat! You got it right, I meant 1/32 inch, .03 inch, or .8mm thick ptfe sheet. But I was comparing that to the oil slick sheet from the roll, which is about .002 inches or 2 mils thick.

Oh, so "mil" means 1,000th of an inch?
Here in metric we use "mil" as an abbreviation for millimeter, or roughly 1/24inch

 

[shark sandwich]

@Frederick McGuire

"mil" is a measurement used in the US to describe thickness of plastic film in thousandths of an inch.
You are correct, 1 mil = 1/1000 inch, but this terminology is only used in reference to films, as far as I know.

 

[farscaper]

@Frederick McGuire @shark sandwich
1mil is 0.0254 millimeters

for clarity sake.

 

[Frederick McGuire]

@Frederick McGuire

"mil" is a measurement used in the US to describe thickness of plastic film in thousandths of an inch.
You are correct, 1 mil = 1/1000 inch, but this terminology is only used in reference to films, as far as I know.

@Frederick McGuire @shark sandwich
1mil is 0.0254 millimeters

for clarity sake.

Awesome, TIL

 

[Joel W.]

I am glad we got the parchment deal figured out because my idea failed in the sense that rosin wrapped around the Teflon edge and just coated my jaws in gooey goodness... Only a drop made it to the bottom.

Now I know...

Edit: The puck that came out looks so strange, it looks like it's been plasticized by the rosin. so weird.. Like the rosin had a hard time getting away and re-solidified on the puck once out..

 

[farscaper]

https://instagram.com/p/78zlSbwv2z/
looks like even oil slick says its ok to press with parchment... of course they want you to use their parchment to do it lol

http://oilslickpad.com/products/slick-wrap/

 

[NorVape]

I just buy regular store brands, but have any one found good reasons to invest in more expensive parchment?

 

[farscaper]

late night compressions that had me so done I couldnt even bother to post. I just giggled and passed out for the night.

up close shot of the same

on the first press I have been trying sticking the buds right in the crease and not leaving any room below to juice through. that forces the rosin out just one side. then I fold the chip in half and rejuice it but I turn the parchment reverse from its last position and squeeze it. this causes most of the remaining rosin out the top again and it forms up a sweet looking slab like you see when people are using tbag tech. only the above was flower rosin... no teabag.

cheers.

 

[Joel W.]

then I fold the chip in half and rejuice it but I turn the parchment reverse from its last position and squeeze it.

I'm trying to understand your shaped rosin charge better. I fold mine in half with bud at bottom, then fold both sides in at an angle inwards at the top for a rosin volcano. Make sure you leave enough room at the top though or

New zombie smiley.

Edit, This all makes me want to machine some male & female die's for pressing now.

 

[farscaper]

I'm trying to understand your shaped rosin charge better. I fold mine in half with bud at bottom, then fold both sides in at an angle inwards at the top for a rosin volcano. Make sure you leave enough room at the top though or

New zombie smiley.

Edit, This all makes me want to machine some male & female die's for pressing now.

I use a bigger piece of parchment and sqeeze it out from the fold. then I turn it around so the opening is inserted first and re squeeze it from the open end towards the fold.

basically it just shoves rosin from the second press up into the first press and makes a nice big patty. both presses are at the exact same temp.

my plates are very narrow. only 1 or 1.5" wide but 4" or so long. (I should really measure them cause im just guessing) while your plates are square... my plates are aluminum plates that the hearers slipped into from the hair iron I cannabolized.

@Joel W. do you get a lot of lateral dispersal? I do not. and I think its because of the shape of my plates. it just forces it up and down and very minimal is secreated laterally. I dont fold the sided in at all I just make sure the paper wide enough it is sticking out both sides.

are you takinging rotary press or flatbed when you say male and felmale dies?

 

[Joel W.]

That clears it up for me, thanks.. The movable jaw on my vise does not move/flex up much when pressing and my jaws have almost no gaps when closed so rosin flows pretty evenly in all directions. The copper nickel spreads the heat very well so the edges are about as hot as the middle.

As for die's, I am just thinking out loud. It has the same collection issues as the dead fry pan idea and any sharp edges would tear the parchment. .

This is working for me for now... Lol... My best pic so far. The crease is at the bottom. It's pretty evenly distributed.

 

[2clicker]

wow... im glad i posted that about PTFE and got that conversation going! lol

so parchment is good to go eh? that Oil Slick "slick wrap" looks a lot like the martha stewart parchment/foil stuff available.

so is the non bleached parchment our best bet?

 

[farscaper]

ive used Reynolds and wiltons brands. just what I found locally. each is a little different. perhaps its time to get nitty gritty on what the collective opinion is on parchments and brands... but before we ask opinions lets get some facts.

There are two different ways to produce parchment paper the ideal for our purpose is coating it with silicone like reynolds and wilton brands and the other (CHEAPER) method is to spray quilon on either side.

Quilon is a chemical containing chrome – a heavy metal – which when incinerated becomes toxic and leaves trace elements. The reason for the majority of parchment paper to be quilon-coated is the cost, which is substantially lower than silicone.

the oil slick brand parchment is foil backed parchment. just like @2clicker mentioned it miraculously similar to martha wrap although it seems to be discontinued. oil slick wrap touts a "quilon free" and 100% resistance to solvents but they are very clever in calling it a foil backed "parchment paper" and "quilon free" but do not go as far as to mention if its silicone... or ptfe.

deductive reasoning suggests either they are using one of the two... but since even oil slick will not stamp platnium cured silicone as 100% solvent resistant it leads me to wonder if they have backed ptfe slick sheets with foil.

either way we know that Reynolds and wilton are silicone not quilon. who else has a recommended brand?

 

[killick]

I hate to disrupt, but I've been following this thread for quite awhile now. Has anyone put together a quick list of what eqpt actually works? Let's say someone had been following this thread for awhile and wants to squosh what is the recommended starting kit?
Ta very much

 

[MileHighLife]

ive used Reynolds and wiltons brands. just what I found locally. each is a little different. perhaps its time to get nitty gritty on what the collective opinion is on parchments and brands... but before we ask opinions lets get some facts.

There are two different ways to produce parchment paper the ideal for our purpose is coating it with silicone like reynolds and wilton brands and the other (CHEAPER) method is to spray quilon on either side.

Quilon is a chemical containing chrome – a heavy metal – which when incinerated becomes toxic and leaves trace elements. The reason for the majority of parchment paper to be quilon-coated is the cost, which is substantially lower than silicone.

the oil slick brand parchment is foil backed parchment. just like @2clicker mentioned it miraculously similar to martha wrap although it seems to be discontinued. oil slick wrap touts a "quilon free" and 100% resistance to solvents but they are very clever in calling it a foil backed "parchment paper" and "quilon free" but do not go as far as to mention if its silicone... or ptfe.

deductive reasoning suggests either they are using one of the two... but since even oil slick will not stamp platnium cured silicone as 100% solvent resistant it leads me to wonder if they have backed ptfe slick sheets with foil.

either way we know that Reynolds and wilton are silicone not quilon. who else has a recommended brand?

Beyond Gourmet is quilon free, good to 450* F and made in Sweden.

Looks to me like the oil slick paper is using bleached parchment.

 

[2clicker]

ive used Reynolds and wiltons brands. just what I found locally. each is a little different. perhaps its time to get nitty gritty on what the collective opinion is on parchments and brands... but before we ask opinions lets get some facts.

There are two different ways to produce parchment paper the ideal for our purpose is coating it with silicone like reynolds and wilton brands and the other (CHEAPER) method is to spray quilon on either side.

Quilon is a chemical containing chrome – a heavy metal – which when incinerated becomes toxic and leaves trace elements. The reason for the majority of parchment paper to be quilon-coated is the cost, which is substantially lower than silicone.

the oil slick brand parchment is foil backed parchment. just like @2clicker mentioned it miraculously similar to martha wrap although it seems to be discontinued. oil slick wrap touts a "quilon free" and 100% resistance to solvents but they are very clever in calling it a foil backed "parchment paper" and "quilon free" but do not go as far as to mention if its silicone... or ptfe.

deductive reasoning suggests either they are using one of the two... but since even oil slick will not stamp platnium cured silicone as 100% solvent resistant it leads me to wonder if they have backed ptfe slick sheets with foil.

either way we know that Reynolds and wilton are silicone not quilon. who else has a recommended brand?

nice post! when my device is ready ill start looking into this shit.

I hate to disrupt, but I've been following this thread for quite awhile now. Has anyone put together a quick list of what eqpt actually works? Let's say someone had been following this thread for awhile and wants to squosh what is the recommended starting kit?
Ta very much

so far i think the best DIY setup is a vise of some sort with heating plates attached at the jaws. the bench vise produces the pressure we need for a more efficient extraction compared to say hair straighteners and even t-shirt sublimation presses. i have a friend who wants to split a d-nail press, but im hesitant to pull the trigger if a device can be made cheaper and possibly be better at extracting.

 

[shark sandwich]

As far as unbleached parchment goes, I also prefer Beyond Gourmet brand. It's available on amazon and well reviewed. Never tried the oil slick wrap.

 

[Joel W.]

I guess I am using Albertsons essentials everyday brand. I am not having much luck figuring out what type it is but I believe Reynolds makes it. This is about the only info I have found so far. I am sure it's bleached but that is another can of worms for another day.

"There are basically two types of parchment paper, Quilon and Silicone. All Quilon type paper requires a reliable hashgacha during the year while the silicone type does not. Both require special Pesach certification.
This is not to be confused with wax paper or freezer paper which do not require any certification during the year or for Pesach.
The following brands certified by the OU do not require Passover certification:"

• Essential Everyday
• Great Value
• Kirkland
• Meijer
• Member's Mark
• Reynolds
• Roundy's

Now, I have no idea what some of the words mean but i think it's for religious purposes. If it's correct, I think I am good.

 

[shark sandwich]

I was worried because I didn't see Beyond Gourmet on that list, so I checked their website and found they are in fact 100% Quilon free.

 

[herbivore21]

https://instagram.com/p/78zlSbwv2z/
looks like even oil slick says its ok to press with parchment... of course they want you to use their parchment to do it lol

http://oilslickpad.com/products/slick-wrap/

Guys, this slick wrap looks fantastic! Teflon, as we know (especially for those of you squishing nugs pre-pressed in a pollen press) can deform, especially when used with super strong vices/presses.

This one in a video posted elsewhere on FC (maybe this thread) seems not to deform so readily. I am gonna get my hands on a bunch of this to use from now on I'll report my thoughts soon enough.

Let's be clear though, AFAIK slick wrap is not parchment. It is foil-backed teflon. Collecting off this stuff would be a dream, and as I test, I'll be sure to consider how quickly it deforms, if at all. This may actually be a much more feasible teflon solution to reuse

EDIT: OMG I FINALLY GOT A BUD TO SQUISH with nothing but a hair straightener, a pollen press and a piece of slick sheet! Took one .15-.2 size nug, pressed it tight as possible in the pollen press, then squished it in my hair straightener super hard and 20-30f hotter than I would press bubble for about 10-20 seconds. There was one solid good sized dab squished out, with no contaminant in it at all! I won't do this all the time and still much prefer squishing bubble, but this is a great option to have if I am low on bubble and have nice flowers around!

 

[Joel W.]

EDIT: OMG I FINALLY GOT A BUD TO SQUISH

Right on bro..

I think I am seeing that my oil is lighter in color when I don't presquish nugs but I am running low on good nugs now to keep testing this.

I still don't quite understand why one would spend the time and labor making yummy bubble, only to squish it later?

Just curious, not trying to be a tool.

Edit: I forgot there are several grades of bubble.

 

[farscaper]

Right on bro..

I think I am seeing that my oil is lighter in color when I don't presquish nugs but I am running low on good nugs now to keep testing this.

I still don't quite understand why one would spend the time and labor making yummy bubble, only to squish it later?

Just curious, not trying to be a tool.

Edit: I forgot there are several grades of bubble.

making bubble first would probably increase the ease with which extraction takes place because less heat and pressure are required.. but at a loss of overall weight. probably.

to me the bubble percentages are a little misleading. to say your getting x percent from bubble compared to flowers is not a good comparison... primarily because its well known that bubble hash tech often yields lower than "most" solvent based extractions. so when people say they got 70 or 80 percent from bubble.... technically that lowered the total yield. since maybe you got 15 or 18% from bubble run... then you only collected 80% of that... so your actual yield is only 14% from an 18% flower to bubble yield.

of course I must also point out for the record that yield quantity is not indicative of quality.

 

[Joel W.]

I wonder if there is less wax in bubble rosin from lower temps and less pressures. I'd like to see a pic of a bubble puck. I imagine it's all just tricome skins? Depending on grades of course.