Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

[Joel W.]

I kinda want to rip out the temp controller and use it on my old 1" iron plates. Should I still use the irons board too, and if not what about the issue of 4 plate wires and only 2 controller wires.

I have wired these heaters to a digital temp controller from an ez type vape, Just make sure you wire both in parallel. i used them as a burner plate to warm up qwet vac.

The plate with the 4 wires is the one with the temp sensor, 2 of the wire (clear plastic) go to heater and the two colored wires (red usually) go to the temp sensor. The DTC pulses full power on and off without a temp senser, unlike the board which lowers or raises power acording to the sensor.. I think lol..

edit: I tried removing my plywood but I could not get over 200f without. I put in a layer of cardboard and that got me to 220f but I agree with @farscaper on smaller plates means less travel time/clearer rosin so time to trim some vise jaws down..

 

[herbivore21]

Thanks for the info as always!

Can't wait to see the new rosin setup!

A pleasure as always my good man! I'll be sure to report back here when I get this new rosin setup happening

 

[BoogerMan]

A pleasure as always my good man! I'll be sure to report back here when I get this new rosin setup happening

Awesome!

One last question, what is the full diameter of the SiC dish (in mm if possible please)? Just want to see if I have a carb cap that will fit it before I place my order tomorrow. Payday!!

 

[Monsoon]

I'm trying to decide if I want to wait for the new design to use with my current carb caps or if I want to fork up the extra $55 for the dnail cap+dabber

You probably just need to spend $45 for the cap, it's compatible with HE and New-Vape screw in dabbers and I bet you have at least one lying around. If you had to choose between the sapphire insert and the carb cap, I'd go with the carb cap for sure. Fits like a glove and optimizes the piece.

 

[BoogerMan]

You probably just need to spend $45 for the cap, it's compatible with HE and New-Vape screw in dabbers and I bet you have at least one lying around. If you had to choose between the sapphire insert and the carb cap, I'd go with the carb cap for sure. Fits like a glove and optimizes the piece.

Yeah seems like a solid carp cap too so I'll grab it instead of trying to get something to fit. And nice idea! I definitely do have some dabbers around that will fit it thanks!!

 

[herbivore21]

Damn it I broke my fucking flower adapter glass bowl by dropping it onto tiles whilst cleaning! I used that to consume my rosin chips after pressing. Gave serious whitewall!

How do you guys dispense with your rosin pucks?

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

I've thrown a bunch into ISO alcohol. I have a small clear top coffee grinder that has the grinding area that you can twist and remove. $13-15 at the local Walmart. Easy to turn those chips into a more even grind. You can even get it powdery to the point where when it vapes it turns into a puck and messes with airflow! I may do a full decarb on some and mix with coconut oil and cap.

 

[toolbox12]

D-Nail posted an update on the heat presses, basically another 4 weeks until they start shipping the first batch.

"Barring further delays"

 

[herbivore21]

Awesome!

One last question, what is the full diameter of the SiC dish (in mm if possible please)? Just want to see if I have a carb cap that will fit it before I place my order tomorrow. Payday!!

Sure thing my friend, the diameter is approx 14mm Sorry it took me a while, been very busy today testing my new toys amongst other things!

I've thrown a bunch into ISO alcohol. I have a small clear top coffee grinder that has the grinding area that you can twist and remove. $13-15 at the local Walmart. Easy to turn those chips into a more even grind. You can even get it powdery to the point where when it vapes it turns into a puck and messes with airflow! I may do a full decarb on some and mix with coconut oil and cap.

Nice! I think I'm gonna have a shot at some kind of tailored solvent extraction to get the best possible dabbable product out of my hash rosin pucks (I've never squished buds, it never worked for me, I need something with way more pressure).

I did a typical hair straightener squish of some THC bomb bubble, probably only .5g and it squirted insanely, almost dried out the puck in one squish.

Dark as fuck (very old but amazing spicey hash) but the flavor has preserved and dabbing it on my sapphire halo it tastes heavenly. Sapphire is so satisfying for a flavor snob like me! I encourage anyone else similarly concerned with the flavor of their dabs to get sapphire as soon as it is available to you!

Can't wait to get a new press and start making some rockin material! Tested the heater part of my apparatus today with manual pressure from a heavy kitchen implement. Lower temp than my straightener could ever go (about 170f). Couldn't get enough squish on the surface area with the implement at hand, but milked a bit. Got some incredible stuff out of that! Can't wait to drop my temps down and boost my pressure up safely and without exerting myself. More to come soon!

In the meantime I'm back to these delicious sapphire dabs. The flavor has nowhere to hide! lol

 

[THCyantist]

Just a heads up...anyone trying to buy arbor press dies through IG, USE "medisunman". He's the first guy to make them, high5vape copied his design and is using his content to promote his knockoff product without giving medisunman credit. He's basically the FatJew of rosin tech.

Also, I recently took all my rosin chips I pressed with an older press at 230 and repressed them at 275 with a newer/better clamp setup. Got some lower quality, super dark rosin, but mainly did it to further decarb the bud chips. I put them in my morning kale shake, a little extra fiber and any leftover fito-canabanoids...stoned me pretty good with 2 grams

 

[Monsoon]

Just a heads up...anyone trying to buy arbor press dies through IG, USE "medisunman". He's the first guy to make them, high5vape copied his design and is using his content to promote his knockoff product without giving medisunman credit. He's basically the FatJew of rosin tech.

I saw some of the drama that ensued from that. For me though High5Vape is promising a delivery price of $300 while Medisunman is charging $600, that's enough of a difference for me to go with the cheaper option regardless of drama.

 

[NorVape]

I throw my rosin hash chips in ethanol, with my avb, let it stay there untill the jar is full, double boil on lowheat in the end. After that I'm filtering, reducing, scraping... Then I make coconut caps with the dark gooey oil.

Very sedative.

 

[THCyantist]

Does anyone know of an inexpensive way to test how much pressure a press is putting out. I now have a few different clamp setups, and want to compare them with each other and other presses.

Like pressing something where the relationship between pressure and deformation is known.

One more thought, I've seen people making their own presses talking about how many lbs of force they are applying. But the bud doesn't feel the force directly, it feels pressure. Pressure=Force/Area. So minimize Area and maximize Force(I have been crossing my heating plates instead of parallel). that being said, the area can only get so small, and force can get as big as the materials allow.

 

[Joel W.]

Does anyone know of an inexpensive way to test how much pressure a press is putting out.

I have used torque wrenches on Kurt milling vises in the machining world to estimate clamping force applied on parts... An example would be 10ft pounds of torque on the vise handle is about 1100psi clamping force. 80 ft lbs of torque is about 8000psi. If you can figure out your ratios you may be able to rig a torque wench to your arbor press handle.

There are arbor press force guages and tools called repeaters but they are not real cheap...

 

[farscaper]

Does anyone know of an inexpensive way to test how much pressure a press is putting out. I now have a few different clamp setups, and want to compare them with each other and other presses.

Like pressing something where the relationship between pressure and deformation is known.

One more thought, I've seen people making their own presses talking about how many lbs of force they are applying. But the bud doesn't feel the force directly, it feels pressure. Pressure=Force/Area. So minimize Area and maximize Force(I have been crossing my heating plates instead of parallel). that being said, the area can only get so small, and force can get as big as the materials allow.

I have used torque wrenches on Kurt milling vises in the machining world to estimate clamping force applied on parts... An example would be 10ft pounds of torque on the vise handle is about 1100psi clamping force. 80 ft lbs of torque is about 8000psi. If you can figure out your ratios you may be able to rig a torque wench to your arbor press handle.

There are arbor press force guages and tools called repeaters but they are not real cheap...

I kinda figure if your press is forcing rosin through the backside of the parchment paper it doesnt matter how much pressure there is in numbers... cause there is more than enough to do the job.

 

[shark sandwich]

I never had that problem with my 1 ton press, but once that broke in half and I got the three ton, I ran into the issue @farscaper describes with rosin penetrating parchment. It only happened when applying at least 180 pounds of force on the bar. The press is rated for 3 tons at 60 pounds, and my presses are roughly one square inch, so that means I started seeing issues at about 9 tons per square inch, mostly at temperatures above 200 if I remember correctly.

The ideal pressure will depend on your press size, temperature, strain, and probably parchment brand. I'll give double oil slick sheets a shot, but I worry about their ability to transfer heat.

 

[THCyantist]

I have used torque wrenches on Kurt milling vises in the machining world to estimate clamping force applied on parts... An example would be 10ft pounds of torque on the vise handle is about 1100psi clamping force. 80 ft lbs of torque is about 8000psi. If you can figure out your ratios you may be able to rig a torque wench to your arbor press handle.

There are arbor press force guages and tools called repeaters but they are not real cheap...

Thanks for the info. I briefly thought of doing the force calculations for the clamps but doesn't seem worth it anymore.

I kinda figure if your press is forcing rosin through the backside of the parchment paper it doesnt matter how much pressure there is in numbers... cause there is more than enough to do the job.

YES!! as an engineer i like to quantify, but your totally right. I recently came to the realization there is only so much resin in the bud. Maximize yield VS. Minimize chemical degradation. The rest goes to edibles.

 

[farscaper]

I never had that problem with my 1 ton press, but once that broke in half and I got the three ton, I ran into the issue @farscaper describes with rosin penetrating parchment. It only happened when applying at least 180 pounds of force on the bar. The press is rated for 3 tons at 60 pounds, and my presses are roughly one square inch, so that means I started seeing issues at about 9 tons per square inch, mostly at temperatures above 200 if I remember correctly.

The ideal pressure will depend on your press size, temperature, strain, and probably parchment brand. I'll give double oil slick sheets a shot, but I worry about their ability to transfer heat.

I can achieve the bleed through effect at 120°F with my little screw bench vise... perhaps it packs more of a punch than I realized.

ive not used slick sheets with rosin but I have used it to purge solvents on. I suppose the only concern I would have is how they will handle such excessive pressure. their heat transfer ability was equal to parchment... in fact as I recall they had a tendency to retain heat slightly more than parchment but took a little longer to warm up... but this again was without pressure applied...

I also noticed that when creased there would be micro tears in the Teflon and oil would seep out. this is probably where my concerns for durability lie

 

[Joel W.]

I just made the switch from renolds brand to the cheaper essentials select brand and it seems to be thicker paper and less prone to tearing during pressings. Also collection is much easier. I can not see through it as well.

 

[Hoosier]

I have been tossing rosin chips and spent abv into a mason jar of 1/2 cup of EC. Have had this going for over a month now and though last night was the time to try. Completely level headed, I measured out 2.5ml into a shot glass and topped the shot glass off with Jaegermeister. Perfect combination. Within 1 hour, I was rocked. Couldn't sit still. Mind was racing. Didn't want to even add any extra gear by dabbing or drinking, was happy just to enjoy the ride from my new friend, RCGD.

 

[Joel W.]

Got up early and made some new thinner oak insulator blocks for my vise jaws that seem to not compress as much. Then I ground all the corner edges off my rectangular jaws at a 45 degree so they're more oval/octagon shape now (200g less metal). They heat up faster and can reach 240f max. There is less distance for the rosin to travel as well with still a large squishing area..

I squished a single bud that weighed 1.09g and I got back .21 on the first squish and .03 on the second. The second squish was a bit darker.

 

[CrazyDiamond]

Got up early and made some new thinner oak insulator blocks for my vise jaws that seem to not compress as much. Then I ground all the corner edges off my rectangular jaws at a 45 degree so they're more oval/octagon shape now (200g less metal). They heat up faster and can reach 240f max. There is less distance for the rosin to travel as well with still a large squishing area..

I squished a single bud that weighed 1.09g and I got back .21 on the first squish and .03 on the second. The second squish was a bit darker.

Could you snap some pics of what you have now sometime?

 

[Joel W.]

Could you snap some pics of what you have now sometime?

The jaws are pretty rough as I only have cut off wheels here. I take the torch to the jaws to skip the 20 min warm up time.

Here is 1.09g under pressure

The squish. I am liking the new parchment paper.

 

[PoopMachine]

Got up early and made some new thinner oak insulator blocks for my vise jaws that seem to not compress as much. Then I ground all the corner edges off my rectangular jaws at a 45 degree so they're more oval/octagon shape now (200g less metal). They heat up faster and can reach 240f max. There is less distance for the rosin to travel as well with still a large squishing area..

I squished a single bud that weighed 1.09g and I got back .21 on the first squish and .03 on the second. The second squish was a bit darker.

You should pick up some phenolic sheeting up from a local plastics supply house. I bet it would work a lot better.

Delrin might be a good choice too but Im unsure about its thermal capabilities.

 

[Joel W.]

You should pick up some phenolic sheeting up from a local plastics supply house. I bet it would work a lot better.

Delrin might be a good choice too but Im unsure about its thermal capabilities.

I will look into phenolic plastic, I have some UHMW (like delrin) and i felt it was too soft once warm. delrin may be tougher though, thanks. The wood seems to be plenty tough for now as I have noticed i get just about the same returns if I lightly tighten it by hand or if reef the holy snot out of the handle. It actually seems to flow better with less pressure at first then crank it down at the very end for the last little bit..