Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

2clicker

2clicker

Observer
nopartofme said:
Got my slick pads today.

I'm going to have to do some more experimenting, because the thickness of the pads definitely changes the heat and pressure dynamics. I started out with the slick pad and the tortilla press and wasn't getting very good results… I adjusted the position of the nugs and tried to apply more pressure, which helped a bit.

I switched to the hair straightener. I used a higher heat (something like 372ºF I think) and tried to take advantage of being able to focus my pressure on a smaller surface area. That helped. The slick pads are definitely cool products with great physical properties. Be careful though, because the silicone definitely stays hot a lot longer, especially when you're taking the whole thing in and out of a tortilla maker.

This was the real kicker. Halfway through I remembered reading about RH and adding moisture, so I thought what the hell I'll give it a shot.

I took a .3 gram nug and carefully applied a few drops of water. This felt like a weeeeird thing to do, since I'm used to keeping my nugs the hell away from water! I was surprised by how hydrophobic the nug was, as the drops of water just sat there indefinitely on the surface. Then I realized that this shouldn't have surprised me; of course, it's a flower! Anyways…

I added mutliple drops to compensate for the fact that most of the water simply ran off of it, trying to get some small amount of moisture in there. I pressed it out in the hair straightener and WOW! Significantly improved yield, at least 2-3x just eyeballing. Tried it again in the tortilla maker. Boom, same deal.

So, yeah. In the realm of moisture, heat, pressure, and time… Moisture is seeming to be king??

By the way, the purity of the rosin has gone up since switching from parchment to slick pad. I think it has to do with a combination of pressure distribution changing the way the flower presses, a decreased stickiness, and eliminated melting of parchment. No screens involved.
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good shit! so just adding water helped that much eh?

think you could just give the nug a quick spray from a sprayer?
 
salivape

salivape

Well-Known Member
Really appreciate the experiments with RH. I suspect that's why I'm having issues. Yielding less than 10% atm which sucks. It's hard to throw caution to the wind when weed is so expensive here. Anyway, here's the pitiful amount I did manage to make... This is 0.09 from more than a gram, probably a 1.2 :\

jtkYi2m.jpg


Definitely gonna try adding a drop of water and also pressing for longer. It's not as easy as it looks this rosin. Either that or I just have crap weed :shrug: It's haze so it should be yielding nicely imo.
 
Jared

Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
I'm sure you guys already know this but if you want to really rehydrate your nuggs stick them all in a mason jar, wet a coffee filter and close it inside between the lid and the jar then sit it in front of a heater or somewhere very warm. Your nuggs will be like you just pulled them off the stem after ~30 min if you want them to be, or just use less time to rehydrate a little.
 
Jayou540

Jayou540

Member
Thanks man I kinda figured..

Guys on my second day of making rosin I clearly found OG#19 gave me twice as much returns.. Dense Dense nugs with incredible flavour turned into this insanity.. How potent could this be? Humour me ;) It wasn't top top shelf flower by any means but it was def grade A super pungent smell and cured very well . Tastes like candy in my solo. Now it's in this form.. I'm finding it really hard to contain my excitement
http://imgur.com/EgnXWcH
http://imgur.com/OWq9OZ4
 
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farscaper

Well-Known Member
so, for those of you wondering how much of a diffrence pre compression of the buds make.... I can vouch it helps a ton! especially in keeping the oil sublimate clean and increasing yield.

but thevmost important part... here is why.

when you simply squish the flower with fingers or even just with the hot plates what happens is that the edges get flatter and the center stays somewhat thick... so a great deal of oil never actually squeezed out past the edge if the flower matter.

so when you put a bud in a tube and compress it the flower takes on a thick coin shape... what makes the biggest diffrence IMO with pre compression is that the flower be formed into a coin or solid shape of some kind so there is no taper to the edges.

Do Not Worry! you do not need to drop a ton of money on a press to make coins for sublimation.

take a piece of 1/2" 40sch pvc and a 5/8" dowel rod of the same legnth and there you go. bud in one end of the tube and rod in the other... smack the rod with hammer while holding the tube firmly. place a piece of parchment under the end so it doesnt stick to the table.

cheap cheap cheap.
 
J

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
This guy is my new hero. From a rosin tech fb post. 5 days work though. I want to speed this process up!
Larry said:
"24x24 sq/inch 5ton press 300-325°ish..18-25g at a time 1.5lb..then put into cls and purged and got additional 56g of nice sap extract. 96g slab of rosin by Larry Sxxxxxk . SO sexy"
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10003331_1600444110172030_3546696074536885906_n.jpg
 
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weenstoned

weenstoned

Well-Known Member
Think they mean that they got that 96g slab then put did a butane run of the crushed chunks and got 56g of bho. Kind of an impressive slab, but obviously not super effective if you're getting ~60% extra return still left in the remains.
 
J

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
Bouldorado said:
sounds like he pressed the rosin out and then did a BHO run on the leftovers in a closed loop
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weenstoned said:
Think they mean that they got that 96g slab then put did a butane run of the crushed chunks and got 56g of bho. Kind of an impressive slab, but obviously not super effective if you're getting ~60% extra return still left in the remains.
Click to expand...

Correct.

Edit: My guess is even though he uses a 5 ton press with 24"x24" pressing plates, he needs more pounds per square inches of pressure to get more rosin out. just guessing tho.. This is why I think the rollers will work so well., Basically squeezing the rosin out from one end of the bud to the other with ALL the pressure on one part of the bud at a time (like the hair press). I could be wrong of course :)
 
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F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
btw... most of the pros are using 25u ir 25 micron silk screens to press their buds with too keel the plant matter out I know a few of us were concerned about heat and such... well since most are made with silk screen material most will be made of polyester which has a melting poing of 250°C or 482°F.
remember the parchment and slickpads are only good up until around 500°F so they should be ok.

im gonna order some to try out see if I caN keep the plant particles out of my rosin... then it will be photogenic!
 
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
CrazyCannuck said:
Been following the thread and I found something to produce the "coins" if you do not want to make the DIY compression tool farscaper suggested. A bit pricey but it should work pretty good:

Mini Pocket Press Hammer

http://www.wackywillysweb.com/products.php?cat=163

They have a bunch of other stuff as well, screens, pads etc.

cheers
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they have a pretty good selection of stuff for we rosin heads.

I may go with these polyester screens.
https://www.wackywillysweb.com/proddetail.php?prod=BHO-Extractor-Screens,

they will fit my 6x6" work area well.

im going to use them in sets and I may possibly try folding to see if one tech works better.....

wait... ok this tid bits gonna get annoying... so the above are solvent resistant polyester... but in their rosin tech section they sell nylon screens...
it only says nylon on the rosin tech page...
https://www.wackywillysweb.com/products.php?cat=163

if you click the screens they don't actually list that material in the full page listing...
https://www.wackywillysweb.com/proddetail.php?prod=RosinTechScreenkit

so which? polyester or nylon?

edit: fun fact... nylon is made from DMT.

The product nylon is formed by the condensation of copolymers. Equal parts of dicarboxylic acid and diamine are used for the process. There are peptide bonds on the ends of the monomers. Synthetic polyesters are made up of dimethyl ester dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) or the purified terephthalic acid (PTA).

Read more: Difference Between Nylon and Polyester | Difference Between | Nylon vs Polyester http://www.differencebetween.net/object/difference-between-nylon-and-polyester/#ixzz3WLk8cIL3
 
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smokum

smokum

I am who I am and your approval isn't needed!
I'd just contact them directly via email or phone... I've dealt with WackyWillys for a while now and they've been very helpful in communications/customer service ;)
 
J

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
Talking with Larry last night about his runs a little. He said he ends up winterizing 1/2 lb rosin every week to remove waxes, terps and any extra plant material. He said customers buying $1000 worth of rosin do not want to pay $250 for waxes. This kinda made me sad tho. I wonder if there is a way to seperate the waxes from the terps after winterizing and then remix the terps back in to the rosin for flavor?
 
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Joel W.,
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
@jdee I agree! however.... ive not had successful trials with ss 25u screens. it seems like a thermal differential issue, but im unable to test this in a truly controlled environment. when I get a more stable testing rig setup I intend to try ss again. I agree that ss is the best option for durability but some times just cause something seems a certain way... doesnt always make it so. the nylon screens may be choice over ss be cause ss tends to wick oils where as nylon is less permeable to oil. Therefore providing a slicker surface to pass through during sublimation phase.

@Joel W. if we're going to bother with winterizing just solvent wash it all...

the purpose of this tech IMO is to remove all solvent washing...

thst would be like winterizing bubble hash but still calling it bubble hash... they are not the same.

of course your not going to produce a true absolute extraction with this tech... because that requires winterization... but if your looking for shatter texture ive been producing that all along... the type of rosin product will often be a shatter to sap or somewhere inbetween I believe... that will all depend on extraction temp and cure stage of the resin before extraction.

need to sort this screen business out pronto!

the top two is of some rosin I got from those pesky purps that wouldn't produce cause they were too dry.... keep trying harder.
10012998_460726417412580_298343911_n.jpg
 
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J

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
farscaper said:
@Joel W. if we're going to bother with winterizing just solvent wash it all...
the purpose of this tech IMO is to remove all solvent washing...
thst would be like winterizing bubble hash but still calling it bubble hash... they are not the same.
of course your not going to produce a true absolute extraction with this tech... because that requires winterization..
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I totally agree with you. That is why I was sad about it. But I do understand it from a biz point of view from his position and even from the customers view. Personally I would not winterize because I like the flavor of the terps . Not so much the waxes tho.

Edit: I would not even care about small bits of plant material personally, but this is from a guy who had no issues combusting the whole plant (no stems) for 30 years. lol
 
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Bouldorado

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
farscaper said:
the top two is of some rosin I got from those pesky purps that wouldn't produce cause they were too dry.... keep trying harder.
Click to expand...

have you tried @Jared s rehydration tek? Basically nugs in a glass jar, covered with a moist coffee filter, and put somewhere warm for 20 minutes (I use my toaster set on low with the door open). I've been doing this for all my presses lately and it works great! Not only better yields but it's much cleaner too, thanks to the less-crumbly weed.
 
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
Joel W. said:
I totally agree with you. That is why I was sad about it. But I do understand it from a biz point of view from his position and even from the customers view. Personally I would not winterize because I like the flavor of the terps . Not so much the waxes tho.

Edit: I would not even care about small bits of plant material personally, but this is from a guy who had no issues combusting the whole plant (no stems) for 30 years. lol
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and with a low temp enail it doesnt "really" matter. most of the time those bits end up on the dabber still and I just wipe them clean after a dab.
Bouldorado said:
have you tried @Jared s rehydration tek? Basically nugs in a glass jar, covered with a moist coffee filter, and put somewhere warm for 20 minutes (I use my toaster set on low with the door open). I've been doing this for all my presses lately and it works great! Not only better yields but it's much cleaner too, thanks to the less-crumbly weed.
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yup thats how I got the yeild I did... I believe that was a .25g bud before I hydrated it... I used the qtip in distilled water shook it off and placed it in a sealed jar overnight. the bud never touches the qtip.

they are basically the same end result just different paths... but we have definitely proven that RH does play a huge roll in production, but also that you can rehydrate your flowers if they are to dry!

are these bits of info available elsewhere on the net?

I also smashed it in my hammer jig [the jig for turning a bud into a coin] I agree I did get a better quality oil out of it that seemed cleaner. it was very tasty... id share yield if it had lasted long enough lol that shit got tested strait away for quality! :razz:
 
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