Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

[Shit Snacks]

While I didn't get the universal adapter from Delta 3D Studios yet, it's probably your best bet right now. I have also used Oregon glass blower and like his work. I can't see why he can't make you a nice custom water pipe adapter with even a nipple screen in it, in case you like to stem pack.

WTF is a nipple screen
I think you meant "dimpled" or "indented" or "spiked" glass to hold a screen

 

[Warpdrive]

WTF is a nipple screen
I think you meant "dimpled" or "indented" or "spiked" glass to hold a screen

LOL, yes exactly

 

[Salvaged_Title_Robot]

While I didn't get the universal adapter from Delta 3D Studios yet, it's probably your best bet right now. I have also used Oregon glass blower and like his work. I can't see why he can't make you a nice custom water pipe adapter with even a nipple screen in it, in case you like to stem pack.

Thank you so much for putting me on to Oregon Glass Blower!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Oh this guy is selling some preconfigured mods, he's got a side-by-side type of design thing, not cheap, but if anyone is interested:

https://www.reddit.com/r/EntExchange/comments/mjf7uq

 

[2minTurkish]

Yeaa, not cheap at all but if you don't like playing with soldering irons the price for the modded Grus is fair since they cost $30-$40 each I guess . But if you like tinkering, all the instructions and software are throughly laid out on the NFETeam forum. I should find out from that how the Quest chip handles the Splinter TCR curves.

 

[2minTurkish]

Has anyone noticed declining performance on Splinter Zs once the battery level drops below say ~70%? Is this pretty much standard? I know the Milaana functions that way.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Has anyone noticed declining performance on Splinter Zs once the battery level drops below say ~70%? Is this pretty much standard? I know the Milaana functions that way.

No, that is likely a result of your batteries and mod combo... Mi it's unregulated, so the rate of speed to heat is dependent on the battery level is all... For splinter it depends on wattage, in power mode standard.

 

[2minTurkish]

No, that is likely a result of your batteries and mod combo... Mi it's unregulated, so the rate of speed to heat is dependent on the battery level is all... For splinter it depends on wattage, in power mode standard.

What about in TCR mode? I'm using a Molicel p45A on a DNA75C Odin Mini. It could be the mod. One of the flaws of DNA chips are their battery efficiency, but I'm not 100% sure that is what is causing the drop in power over time.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah

What about in TCR mode? I'm using a Molicel p45A on a DNA75C Odin Mini. It could be the mod. One of the flaws of DNA chips are their battery efficiency, but I'm not 100% sure that is what is causing the drop in power over time.

Sorry I don't have any experience with that mod or know anything about it, but yeah temp control setup can be tricky!

 

[bossman]

What about in TCR mode? I'm using a Molicel p45A on a DNA75C Odin Mini. It could be the mod. One of the flaws of DNA chips are their battery efficiency, but I'm not 100% sure that is what is causing the drop in power over time.

While I don't see battery level as percentage on my Red Panda mods I have a habit of swapping cells once they're drained near 3.7V because the performance trails off as the cells lose their juice.

I recall it being more noticeable still in my single cell dna mod days so I wouldn't be surprised if the 27100 Molicel is less punchy when it's not topped off.

 

[Shit Snacks]

While I don't see battery level as percentage on my Red Panda mods I have a habit of swapping cells once they're drained near 3.7V because the performance trails off as the cells lose their juice.

I recall it being more noticeable still in my single cell dna mod days so I wouldn't be surprised if the 27100 Molicel is less punchy when it's not topped off.

Yeah same, 3.7v is around 40%, at least according to the mod where I have both visible, so that is a good time to swap cells in general anyway, not taking it to 0% lol

 

[2minTurkish]

Yeah same, 3.7v is around 40%, at least according to the mod where I have both visible, so that is a good time to swap cells in general anyway, not taking it to 0% lol

Aww man say it ain't so?! No wonder some people have hella batteries. I was hoping I could run the few I have down to 0, or close to it, before charging to prolong their life.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Aww man say it ain't so?! No wonder some people have hella batteries. I was hoping I could run the few I have down to 0, or close to it, before charging to prolong their life.

It really depends on the mod, the firmware, the batteries type and age... I can get to 20%, but going to 0% is not really going to work, sorry, kind of double-edged sword of having the regulation with these mods! vs Milaana

 

[CanikUser19]

Aww man say it ain't so?! No wonder some people have hella batteries. I was hoping I could run the few I have down to 0, or close to it, before charging to prolong their life.

Yeah I know next to nothing about these batteries. My oldest are from 2015, look as good as the day I bought them, and the health according to my charger is still excellent. Never had any issue with them and they are just what the vape shop sold to the noobs like me. I didn’t know to pay attention to charge levels so I never did, and just charged when needed. Since joining this forum and buying several newer batteries, I pay closer attention to charge levels and don’t run them down too far. I wish these batteries were like my RC car lipo batteries where I can put them in a balanced storage mode when they will be sitting for an extended time, would make it easier for me.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah I know next to nothing about these batteries. My oldest are from 2015, look as good as the day I bought them, and the health according to my charger is still excellent. Never had any issue with them and they are just what the vape shop sold to the noobs like me. I didn’t know to pay attention to charge levels so I never did, and just charged when needed. Since joining this forum and buying several newer batteries, I pay closer attention to charge levels and don’t run them down too far. I wish these batteries were like my RC car lipo batteries where I can put them in a balanced storage mode when they will be sitting for an extended time, would make it easier for me.

Yeah if you do have them sitting unused for extended time, 3.7 v is the ideal resting, I prefer not to let them sit below that myself..

 

[RustyOldNail]

I consider batteries a “consumable”. 3.7-3.8, or on high end chargers, you can use a “storage” setting that will discharge a battery down to that voltage level. I used it for LONG TERM storage, in double sealed containers stored in my refrigerator. 5 years later, my Sony VTC5’s, were fine.

Not sure why anyone would be concerned about the discharge voltage of batteries that one is using in rotation. (Other then a mech mod with NO cutoff or protection, 2.5 volts is as low as most lithium batteries should be discharged) Most modern electronic devices that use lithium batteries have a safety LOW VOLTAGE CUTOFF. Usually around 3.3 volts, and when the device reaches that voltage, it shuts down. Properly made “REGULATED” devices should deliver the voltage till the cutoff.

Standard lithium charge is 4.2 volts, and the process repeats. I get the most out of my batteries, using them in the simple way they were designed for. The spent batteries, I put in a battery case, until the 4th of my five 18650’s, in my rotation gets spent. Now, I have four batteries to charge at once in my 4-bay charger.

If one is mostly concerned with long term battery life, which even with anal care is not going to last that much longer, then ignore my post. Most of the devices we use, need a fully 4.2 volt full charge, down to the devices cutoff voltage to get the best vape. At $4-$5/each, I just buy new batteries when it’s time.

 

[KeroZen]

Actually if you want better longevity, you gain more (in terms of cycle life) by charging them only to say 4.1V than by not discharging them past 20% left. Unfortunately most chargers don't offer any choice on that upper cutoff.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Actually if you want better longevity, you gain more (in terms of cycle life) by charging them only to say 4.1V than by not discharging them past 20% left. Unfortunately most chargers don't offer any choice on that upper cutoff.

Exactly Ken! That’s the science, and I know you know this battery stuff.

My point was that for the relatively low cost of batteries, that folks are chasing “fairy dust”. Even most OCD folks like myself couldn’t be bothered with monitoring their discharge voltage, and stoners and medical patients, well maybe. I advocate using the lithium’s until the device shuts down, and recharge them whenever you get around to it, no damage done, no hassle or record keeping.

The SkyRC MC3000 Charger can set any charge voltage cutoff as well as discharge final voltage, but once I determine the cells capacity, I just charge them to 4.2v., then enjoy the vape.....

 

[KeroZen]

Yes I totally agree. I discharge mine until the device says there's nothing left. It's only a problem on unregulated units with no protection as you said.

That being said, some single cell mods seem to struggle to maintain their set power (or temperature) when the charge gets low. It's quite obvious on the SmoAnt Knight v2 for instance, when there's one bar and even more when there is none, you can see the temperature drop dramatically and you have to draw slower otherwise it can't cope. Didn't have that problem with AF/my_evic on other mods tho.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Yes I totally agree. I discharge mine until the device says there's nothing left. It's only a problem on unregulated units with no protection as you said.

That being said, some single cell mods seem to struggle to maintain their set power (or temperature) when the charge gets low. It's quite obvious on the SmoAnt Knight v2 for instance, when there's one bar and even more when there is none, you can see the temperature drop dramatically and you have to draw slower otherwise it can't cope. Didn't have that problem with AF/my_evic on other mods tho.

I was never a fan of “Smoant”, perhaps it’s just that board. When I was caught on the cheap ECig device buying craze, I bought boxes now full of them. I stopped with the DNA75C, and mods with 21700 lithium’s. I use those now for 510 vapes, RBT, ModPod, DT V4, etc. Some battery indicators are off too, I never start even a 5 minute session on a Davinci Miqro, if it shows 1-LED, as that single 18350, might not have enough to finish it. On the 18650 IQ2, no problem. Most of us punish these batteries, and that’s what’s going to end their life, sooner than any babying of them is going to offset.
CONSUMABLES....

 

[2minTurkish]

Exactly Ken! That’s the science, and I know you know this battery stuff.

My point was that for the relatively low cost of batteries, that folks are chasing “fairy dust”. Even most OCD folks like myself couldn’t be bothered with monitoring their discharge voltage, and stoners and medical patients, well maybe. I advocate using the lithium’s until the device shuts down, and recharge them whenever you get around to it, no damage done, no hassle or record keeping.

The SkyRC MC3000 Charger can set any charge voltage cutoff as well as discharge final voltage, but once I determine the cells capacity, I just charge them to 4.2v., then enjoy the vape.....

Yes I totally agree. I discharge mine until the device says there's nothing left. It's only a problem on unregulated units with no protection as you said.

That being said, some single cell mods seem to struggle to maintain their set power (or temperature) when the charge gets low. It's quite obvious on the SmoAnt Knight v2 for instance, when there's one bar and even more when there is none, you can see the temperature drop dramatically and you have to draw slower otherwise it can't cope. Didn't have that problem with AF/my_evic on other mods tho.

I agree with both of y'all. I haven't been paying too much attention to voltage over time BUT I have noticed just through use that once the, relatively new, batteries dip below 70% on my single 21700 DNA75C, there is a noticeable drop heat. The same temp setting that would come close to charring after 1-2 hits at 100% battery life just browns at 60% battery life after 3-4 hits. So while while I would like to use use the batteries until they drain, chances are I will start swapping them out sooner.

 

[buckhakeesah]

Having revisited with my Z this week, I'm glad I still have this thing and didn't sell her off. A heated and warmed Z is one of the best convection portables I'd had a chance to try.

 

[canadianvapelife]

How do you get big rips on the splinter v2 without combusting?

 

[Vizyt91]

How do you get big rips on the splinter v2 without combusting?

Hi,
I’ve got the splinter Z V1 but it’s nearly the same technique I guess, I lightly tamp my load, run my mod at 35-40w , I preheat for 3 to 5 secs and then I pull slowly during 3 secs and then rip it as hard as I can until my lungs are full , that technique leads to massive clouds and no combustion , try it and let me know.

 

[canadianvapelife]

Hi,
I’ve got the splinter Z V1 but it’s nearly the same technique I guess, I lightly tamp my load, run my mod at 35-40w , I preheat for 3 to 5 secs and then I pull slowly during 3 secs and then rip it as hard as I can until my lungs are full , that technique leads to massive clouds and no combustion , try it and let me know.

Thanks I'll give it a try!