Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

[Madri-Gal]

What wax do you use? Ive been using Ed's BAB but its hard to justify the expense/slow shipping times.

@khelek41girl recommend Walrus Oil (Wood Cutting Board Oil and Butcher Block Conditioner), and it works well. I've been using it on my Splinter, Milaana3, Woodscents, etc., and it does a great job. Much cheaper than the little tins of BAB. (I bought a second, larger, bottle to use on my furniture) By now my cloth is saturated, so a quick wipe is all it takes. You can pick it up on Amazon, and if I remembered how I'd include a link, apologies for not being able to do so.

 

[androponic]

What wax do you use? Ive been using Ed's BAB but its hard to justify the expense/slow shipping times.

i make my own, 5 parts mineral oil to 1 part beeswax. double pan melt the wax and add the oil. mix well, put in mason jar and you have enough for a lifetime.

 

[FearAndLawyering]

What wax do you use? Ive been using Ed's BAB but its hard to justify the expense/slow shipping times.

found a recipe online and my gf made some for me. there’s a lot of pretty similar recipes for it floating around (wood butter). pretty happy with it so far. consistency is a bit goopy, waiting to see if it thickens up anymore

 

[Shit Snacks]

For what it's worth I haven't buttered or oiled any wooden vape in many years now, have not noticed any issues at all, but more than a few have been packed away... Meh lazy lol

 

[FearAndLawyering]

For what it's worth I haven't buttered or oiled any wooden vape in many years now, have not noticed any issues at all, but more than a few have been packed away... Meh lazy lol

i thought that too. have you checked them lately? depending where you live the weather has been much more extreme :/ seen 30 degree swings several times, thats probably what did it

edit: I totally spaced on pic -

https://imgur.com/a/U7bzjcv

 

[Shit Snacks]

i thought that too. have you checked them lately? depending where you live the weather has been much more extreme :/ seen 30 degree swings several times, thats probably what did it

Ah yeah, certainly dry here in socal away from the coast, but I did check some recently that were packed away, and they were still soft! Particularly my Lily which was the one that always saw the most butter way back when... But to keep it on topic, my Milaana and Splinters all seem to be holding up fine! They were well oiled and buttered by Ryan originally so that definitely helps...

 

[bossman]

i thought that too. have you checked them lately? depending where you live the weather has been much more extreme :/ seen 30 degree swings several times, thats probably what did it

edit: I totally spaced on pic -

https://imgur.com/a/U7bzjcv

Eight Zs!!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Eight Zs!!

Thank you I had missed that edit!
Great collection @FearAndLawyering

 

[FearAndLawyering]

Eight Zs!!

there’s more not pictured lol…

my gf helped me wax them last night.
> why do you have 7 of the same thing?
because i sold 6 of them already?
> *blank stare*
ok besides they’re not the same thing. this ones a v1. this ones a v2. this one is US. this one is chinese…
> *blank stare*
fine, i’ll sell some.

i’ve been found out boys. i think i’ll be slimming down the collection a bit lol.

 

[bossman]

there’s more not pictured lol…

my gf helped me wax them last night.
> why do you have 7 of the same thing?
because i sold 6 of them already?
> *blank stare*
ok besides they’re not the same thing. this ones a v1. this ones a v2. this one is US. this one is chinese…
> *blank stare*
fine, i’ll sell some.

i’ve been found out boys. i think i’ll be slimming down the collection a bit lol.

Bravo. Well keep me in mind for that walnut custom when the time comes. I'm slumming it with only four Zs and four Vs over here

 

[Gonchin]

This may have worked. I unscrewed it all the way out, then back snug. I ran 2 loads through it last night and I did not get the error once. It was happening several times a load, so this is a good sign.

Thank you very much!

Well, this didn't work. Still getting the shorted atomizer message. I guess I'l start scouring the net for a different mod.

Does anyone have disassembly instructions for a splinter? I'd be willing to take the risk opening it up.

 

[Hippie]

Have you tried cleaning the 510 connectors with a pencil eraser and pushing centre pin connector in the mod down to test it's springyness?
Careful now you might want to take the batteries out before you go poking at the centre pin
I use a bamboo skewer to check that the centre pin moves up and down freely and true.
If that doesn't bring any joy you can try very fine sandpaper on the contacts to remove any oxides

Unscrewing the centre pin on the splinter a little will make the screw protrude further from the base and maybe make a better connection with the mod. Be careful not to unscrew it too far tho as that can cause an unreliable connection there too.

A 510 heatsink might fix the issue if it has a long enough centre pin, as another option before shopping for another mod.

 

[FearAndLawyering]

Does anyone have disassembly instructions for a splinter? I'd be willing to take the risk opening it up.

ive never taken one apart on purpose, and you may want to try it on a donor mod, but if you get the splinter body really warm and try to overtighten it on the 510 connector, the glue holding the RDA base on the bottom will fail at some point and the 2 pieces will separate.

that said, i dont think the issue is internal to the splinter - i dont think it could short out like this - shorting internally would just lower the resistance. technically the whole thing is shorted out, its just a wire. what mod are you using? some mods have a minimum resistance they need to work, like .5 ohm, which is higher than a splinter reads cold.

taking apart is kind of a nuclear option, the 510 heatsink idea is worth trying first

 

[cybrguy]

there’s more not pictured lol…

my gf helped me wax them last night.
> why do you have 7 of the same thing?
because i sold 6 of them already?
> *blank stare*
ok besides they’re not the same thing. this ones a v1. this ones a v2. this one is US. this one is chinese…
> *blank stare*
fine, i’ll sell some.

i’ve been found out boys. i think i’ll be slimming down the collection a bit lol.

Ask her why she has so many shoes? If you don't mind I will watch from a distance...

 

[Gonchin]

Have you tried cleaning the 510 connectors with a pencil eraser and pushing centre pin connector in the mod down to test it's springyness?
Careful now you might want to take the batteries out before you go poking at the centre pin
I use a bamboo skewer to check that the centre pin moves up and down freely and true.
If that doesn't bring any joy you can try very fine sandpaper on the contacts to remove any oxides

Unscrewing the centre pin on the splinter a little will make the screw protrude further from the base and maybe make a better connection with the mod. Be careful not to unscrew it too far tho as that can cause an unreliable connection there too.

A 510 heatsink might fix the issue if it has a long enough centre pin, as another option before shopping for another mod.

I have removed the center pin from the Splinter and cleaned it with alcohol. The spring action in the Mod seems to be fine.

I'll take an erasure to the pins, it certainly won't hurt anything.

I think if it was a "connection" issue, I would lost likely get an Atomizer Not Found message rather than a shorted message.

ive never taken one apart on purpose, and you may want to try it on a donor mod, but if you get the splinter body really warm and try to overtighten it on the 510 connector, the glue holding the RDA base on the bottom will fail at some point and the 2 pieces will separate.

that said, i dont think the issue is internal to the splinter - i dont think it could short out like this - shorting internally would just lower the resistance. technically the whole thing is shorted out, its just a wire. what mod are you using? some mods have a minimum resistance they need to work, like .5 ohm, which is higher than a splinter reads cold.

taking apart is kind of a nuclear option, the 510 heatsink idea is worth trying first

The issue I am having occurs mid bowl when the Splinter has warmed up. The Mod will display the Atomizer Shorted message and the resistance reading on the screen will be zero. If I remove the splinter and reinstall, the resistance resets and the message goes away. Sometimes it doesn't come right back, other times it comes back in the next couple of hits.

Since it occurs hot, it makes me think something internal, but since it resets when reinstalled, it makes me think Mod.

The only Mods I have that I can fit the splinter on are both Wismec Gen2. One I bought used with a Stempod on entexchange, and one I purchased new. This issue has occurred on both mods. I do have a heatsink I can and will try. I'm currently looking for a Joyetech Epsilon or a Wismec Ravage 230.

I completely agree, disassembly is a nuclear option and will be the last thing I try. I have worked in the electronics industry all my life including some highly intricate very delicate products. I'm pretty confidant that If I can get it apart without damaging the internals, that I can get it back together.

 

[gordontreeman]

Hey everyone,

I know this is probably a frequently discussed topic, searching this thread/forum as a whole leads to a lot of results and many of them are a bit outdated...

I'm thinking about yolo purchasing one of the last Splinter V2s that RBT is selling on insta right now (I was tempted by the milaana too, but I was able to talk myself off of that ledge by reminding myself its the same heater sans regulation and the option to set up temp control lol). I'm just curious if there are any real world differences/benefits between the 3 firmware options (Tubo, AF, Red Panda, and I guess if we say DNA its 4 but I'm not sure if I can even get my hands on one of them)? Not sure if anyone besides @bossman has tried them all? Or is it just pick the one you know and the main thing is getting the resistance, PID parameters, and whatever the m1, m2, and m3 parameters (in tubo, but I assume all of them have something similar) dialed in and they should otherwise perform the same?

Thanks to anyone who has a bit more experience with mods--I just know the high level from reading a bit after getting my Tetra P80, but those come so well dialed in that I'm not inclined to adjust it without very good reasons and a much better understanding of what the PID and M values really affect.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I have removed the center pin from the Splinter and cleaned it with alcohol. The spring action in the Mod seems to be fine.

I'll take an erasure to the pins, it certainly won't hurt anything.

I think if it was a "connection" issue, I would lost likely get an Atomizer Not Found message rather than a shorted message.



The issue I am having occurs mid bowl when the Splinter has warmed up. The Mod will display the Atomizer Shorted message and the resistance reading on the screen will be zero. If I remove the splinter and reinstall, the resistance resets and the message goes away. Sometimes it doesn't come right back, other times it comes back in the next couple of hits.

Since it occurs hot, it makes me think something internal, but since it resets when reinstalled, it makes me think Mod.

The only Mods I have that I can fit the splinter on are both Wismec Gen2. One I bought used with a Stempod on entexchange, and one I purchased new. This issue has occurred on both mods. I do have a heatsink I can and will try. I'm currently looking for a Joyetech Epsilon or a Wismec Ravage 230.

I completely agree, disassembly is a nuclear option and will be the last thing I try. I have worked in the electronics industry all my life including some highly intricate very delicate products. I'm pretty confidant that If I can get it apart without damaging the internals, that I can get it back together.

Yeah I still think it is the mods, so hopefully you can get another one to try and that solves it!

Hey everyone,

I know this is probably a frequently discussed topic, searching this thread/forum as a whole leads to a lot of results and many of them are a bit outdated...

I'm thinking about yolo purchasing one of the last Splinter V2s that RBT is selling on insta right now (I was tempted by the milaana too, but I was able to talk myself off of that ledge by reminding myself its the same heater sans regulation and the option to set up temp control lol). I'm just curious if there are any real world differences/benefits between the 3 firmware options (Tubo, AF, Red Panda, and I guess if we say DNA its 4 but I'm not sure if I can even get my hands on one of them)? Not sure if anyone besides @bossman has tried them all? Or is it just pick the one you know and the main thing is getting the resistance, PID parameters, and whatever the m1, m2, and m3 parameters (in tubo, but I assume all of them have something similar) dialed in and they should otherwise perform the same?

Thanks to anyone who has a bit more experience with mods--I just know the high level from reading a bit after getting my Tetra P80, but those come so well dialed in that I'm not inclined to adjust it without very good reasons and a much better understanding of what the PID and M values really affect.

My dude, surmyevic and tubomyevic have the same base, the difference is tubo has all the extra features specifically for vaping thanks to Ralph, sur is developed for evigs but one nice thing is that it can enter autofire with one long press instead of the others that need it to be two clicks or more...

Arctic Fox is Red Panda, The real difference is black and white and color, so they work for different mods... It's nice because you can set up on the computer as well as on the mod, on the computer you can get all your settings and save as profiles, it is e-cig oriented, but it is really useful for our needs, I like it with my Splinter V2 on P80 a lot! RP is for Ravage/Espion where my Splinter ZV's are...

My original canary splinter is still running surmyevic wattage on G3D but I haven't used that one in a long time and I'm thinking of moving it to a red panda for temp control... My other custom Z in purpleheart is set up on DNA250 which is just play (not autofire or cruise feature, larger 3batt mod that one too... My iHeat is on a DNA75C some batt mod and is solid but annoying control scheme pressing buttons to temp step...) DNA more expensive and not so worth it is more consensus now

M1 in tubo is TCR value so yeah that is the number you tweak, just called TCR in the other firmware, and best a lot cold resistance probably if you can get a good reading on it... Some people tweak that number too though, or only that number... This start is not that long, and it definitely has all the tips summed up from the original!

 

[bossman]

Hey everyone,

I know this is probably a frequently discussed topic, searching this thread/forum as a whole leads to a lot of results and many of them are a bit outdated...

I'm thinking about yolo purchasing one of the last Splinter V2s that RBT is selling on insta right now (I was tempted by the milaana too, but I was able to talk myself off of that ledge by reminding myself its the same heater sans regulation and the option to set up temp control lol). I'm just curious if there are any real world differences/benefits between the 3 firmware options (Tubo, AF, Red Panda, and I guess if we say DNA its 4 but I'm not sure if I can even get my hands on one of them)? Not sure if anyone besides @bossman has tried them all? Or is it just pick the one you know and the main thing is getting the resistance, PID parameters, and whatever the m1, m2, and m3 parameters (in tubo, but I assume all of them have something similar) dialed in and they should otherwise perform the same?

Thanks to anyone who has a bit more experience with mods--I just know the high level from reading a bit after getting my Tetra P80, but those come so well dialed in that I'm not inclined to adjust it without very good reasons and a much better understanding of what the PID and M values really affect.

@Shit Snacks breaks it all down well as usual and I too can't be bothered to use my DNAc anymore with the extra button pressing.

Everyone knows for Splinters and Zs I find Red Panda superior to the other firmware options, including Arctic Fox, though it's not apples to apples since the mods are mutually exclusive. They are scarce though and Arctic Fox/myevic mods like the Wismec rxg3d are my second favorite. That one's a tidy size for a Splinter too. I should try the iStick Rim C with a V2. I've always preferred the performance and battery life on two cell mods but it's less essential with a V2 than a Z.

Also I think it's a good justification: the V2 with its modes and mod options is more versatile than the Milaana 3 and capable of more effortlessly even extraction in TC or wattage in my experience.

 

[bossman]

Basic black

 

[floribud]

yesterday I broke my 19/19 WPA. I'm very sad. Also lost a DDave Mod Ultimate Cooling Stem in the incident. I ask for your thoughts and prayers.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Looks like August is the final month for RBT, going out in style, with one last classic contest:

First Entry for another example:

I think he is doing another live video with Lee tonight, should be more details on selling the final stock!

 

[Shit Snacks]

can no longer edit, but yeah new brand for the fall, going to be producing some glass stem designs, glass heaters, a different type of heater and cooling disc design, etc. Lee will still be helping out for distribution and sales of the new products (which I believe will all be mass-produced, outsourced?)

There are plenty of SplinterV2 now on sale 30% off for the rest of the month making them like $70 plus shipping, but Milaana3 are in short supply, still some left for around $175 with the sale... Not sure if there will ever be more of either after these? (international orders are fine btw, just have to pay more for the shipping and VAT)

Prizes for the contest will include two SplinterV2, a Milaana3, the very last SplinterZ US Custom (in a gorgeous bubinga seen in the video) aaaaand a ZionM!

There will be another ZionM auction at some point as well, no news on any Milaana2...

 

[Polyphone]

can no longer edit, but yeah new brand for the fall, going to be producing some glass stem designs, glass heaters, a different type of heater and cooling disc design, etc. Lee will still be helping out for distribution and sales of the new products (which I believe will all be mass-produced, outsourced?)

There are plenty of SplinterV2 now on sale 30% off for the rest of the month making them like $70 plus shipping, but Milaana3 are in short supply, still some left for around $175 with the sale... Not sure if there will ever be more of either after these? (international orders are fine btw, just have to pay more for the shipping and VAT)

Prizes for the contest will include two SplinterV2, a Milaana3, the very last SplinterZ US Custom (in a gorgeous bubinga seen in the video) aaaaand a ZionM!

There will be another ZionM auction at some point as well, no news on any Milaana2...

How do you make a purchase?

 

[Razhumikin]

How do you make a purchase?

email leerbtmd@gmail.com

 

[Polyphone]

email leerbtmd@gmail.com

Thank you!