Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

ChilledAsian

Well-Known Member
one of the best options you can find today. P80 with tubomyfirmware worked great with the V2 at TCR 145 for me. but still need to try bossman configuration with my new Ravage230,
also depends if you want 1 or 2 battery mod
I was looking at either the ravage230 or espion, but it seems they won't ship to my country. And from what I read Red Panda is the way to go at least for the splinter Zs...
 
ChilledAsian,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Is the sinuous P80 the best mod for a splinter v2?

I mean that is subjective, I think it is a good option, I like it with Arctic Fox the way I have it, and I don't find two batteries necessary for the V2 personally... The ergonomics could be good or bad though depending on your preferences, since it is not the most basic simple mod mod design?
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
I was looking at either the ravage230 or espion, but it seems they won't ship to my country. And from what I read Red Panda is the way to go at least for the splinter Zs...
i have alot of experience with portables. splinter v2 with tcr 145, resistance 0.005 below what's written, locked, max 40w, has been so far one of my best portable experiences ever. it's like a TUBOx. desktop power. i suggest p80 because tubomyfirm works like a charm there **you will need to stirr sometimes..

if you choose this way, I'll help you setup everything in the menu. it's pretty easy..
I dunno which mod is better yet, if you go with the Ravage230 / any other Red Panda supported option ask for bossman's configuration ..
 
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ChilledAsian

Well-Known Member
i have alot of experience with portables. splinter v2 with tcr 145, resistance 0.005 below what's written, locked, max 40w, has been so far one of my best portable experiences ever. it's like a TUBOx. desktop power. i suggest p80 because tubomyfirm works like a charm there **you will need to stirr sometimes..

if you choose this way, I'll help you setup everything in the menu. it's pretty easy..
I dunno which mod is better yet, if you go with the Ravage230 / any other Red Panda supported option ask for bossman's configuration ..
Thanks man!! I have a v2 on the way, was a bit confused to what mod works best for the v2. Decided to order the p80 since it seems to work like a charm with the v2s on tubo. I'll PM you soon when the goods are here... thanks again!

I mean that is subjective, I think it is a good option, I like it with Arctic Fox the way I have it, and I don't find two batteries necessary for the V2 personally... The ergonomics could be good or bad though depending on your preferences, since it is not the most basic simple mod mod design?
is artic fox and sur myevic the same? sorry I'm new to the 510 mods.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
is artic fox and sur myevic the same? sorry I'm new to the 510 mods.

Nope! Tubo is actually called tubomyevic so it is technically more the same as surmyevic but better because it is designed mainly for our kind of vaping (major props to Lamart funkyjunky for designing it, and having it up available for anyone to download) It is that Arctic Fox is sort of same as Red Panda, just black and white or color screens mainly...
 

ChilledAsian

Well-Known Member
Nope! Tubo is actually called tubomyevic so it is technically more the same as surmyevic but better because it is designed mainly for our kind of vaping (major props to Lamart funkyjunky for designing it, and having it up available for anyone to download) It is that Arctic Fox is sort of same as Red Panda, just black and white or color screens mainly...
got it... I'm looking to order the p80 thru vgoodiez with the option of loading the sur myevic. Wasn't so sure about the fw but thanks for clarifying.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Just wanted to say, the splinter with red panda is not necessarily better than what you have, since as far as I know none of us have tried what you have... So how could we possibly know for sure? If you think it is working well for you now, then that's great!



Yes this is my understanding, it is basically just the same for color screens, but those are the only two mods that have that compatibility... It is not necessarily only the firmware, but also the mod, for example the RXgen3Dual may not be good for setting up temp control in my experience, while the P80 is for some reason...



If you do not like these mods, and do not want 18650 batteries, then yeah I wouldn't bother if you think you are getting good performance with what you have now...

Not sure what you mean about hanging over though, splinter z does not hangover on the Ravage or the Espion (only slightly on the front and back), it is actually a pretty perfect fit though for the sides... You can rest the mod on one of the smaller sides, to keep the splinter hovering above the table, without resting it at an angle with the mod on the table... Just like G3D and P80.



Haha yes, recognizably or noticeably works too!

So I have a Splinter V2 set up with Arctic Fox on a P80 and accurate temp control for me using TCR 125 I think with locked resistance around .25 too and 45w max. Then I have a Splinter ZV1 on a Ravage with Red Panda using TCR 160 and locked resistance at .385 (so it just rounds up to .39 but on the low side) and Splinter ZV2 on an Espion with Red Panda using TCR 160 and locked resistance at .415 (so it just rounds up to .42 but on the low side) both with max wattage of 50w...

I originally had the ZV1 on a different Ravage, same settings, but unlocked resistance, and it was working well enough. Then I got the ZV2 and swapped it onto that Ravage instead, also seemed to be working well enough I think... However in use I had accidentally set it to stealth mode somehow, so I couldn't figure out why the screen kept shutting off when I was trying to press the trigger for a hit, until I plugged it into the computer and saw the stealth box checked lol (this is a big benefit of arctic fox and red panda, being able to use the computer to set things up)

When it stopped working though, this is my original black ravage btw, I decided to set up my newer purple ravage and the blue silver espion I had just got as well with the ZV1 and ZV2 respectively. In doing so, I seemed to discover that the unlocked resistance was not really working for me anymore with these two specific mods for some reason... So I used three different mods, running tubo firmware, each one displaying different cold resistance for each Z, and then kind of averaged out to use the resistance values I mentioned above (I chose to go on the low side, rounding up, based on the different values across the different mods I was seeing, I was testing the different values at one set temperature keeping the same TCR value, just tweaking by .002 at a time, before deciding the values I mentioned above seemed to work best for me)

Long story short I think I am getting pretty good consistent performance now with both of them, but the Espion is noticeably heavier than the Ravage (double-edged sword of more metal? I do really like the look and feel of the Espion, but not the weight and modest heft compared to the Ravage) and I think just generally the ZV2 runs hotter? I mean both are working in temp control, but like the range I am using is different, I can start lower with the ZV2 and I can go higher with the ZV1... I think I may put the ZV2 back on the original black ravage, where the resistance is unlocked, and try that out again, for the ergonomics first most, then I will see if I want to tweak it to the settings I have on the Espion... (could try ZV1 on Espion too and see if maybe the mod itself is more of a factor?) Not sure when I will do that though, right now I kind of like the difference between the two for some extra variety!

Anyway I meant to post this a while ago, like a few weeks, when I set them up as I described above... Bossman's advice is truly fantastic, but it is not necessarily universal, so find what works best for you!


PXL-20210217-003438185.jpg


:cheers::spliff:

PXL-20210217-003802496.jpg


:cool:
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Reminder that in my post that I quoted above, I went into my settings on the above mods, should have cut out the beginning of it from my quote, but too late to edit now!

PXL-20210221-005251077.jpg


Thanks again to @Ripstar for this great O'Connell inception jayhook, using it with this SplinterZravage might be my favorite!
 

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
Does anyone know what the full retail price was when the US Custom Splinter Z was readily available and at it’s peak price? One of my buddies has some gambling winnings burning a hole in his pocket and is willing and able to submit to some price gouging, if I’m willing (and stupid enough) to let go of one of mine. Thanks all.
 
CanikUser19,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Does anyone know what the full retail price was when the US Custom Splinter Z was readily available and at it’s peak price? One of my buddies has some gambling winnings burning a hole in his pocket and is willing and able to submit to some price gouging, if I’m willing (and stupid enough) to let go of one of mine. Thanks all.

If it is just a Splinter Z on its own (plain stems and no mod), I don't think they were ever more than $200? But I could be wrong... When there was ZV1 and ZV2 the US custom Z may have been up to $250 at one time?
 

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
If it is just a Splinter Z on its own (plain stems and no mod), I don't think they were ever more than $200? But I could be wrong... When there was ZV1 and ZV2 the US custom Z may have been up to $250 at one time?
Yeah I was thinking $200 was the basement and around $250 the ceiling for brand new units when they were available. If I do it, I would definitely throw in a mod with RP loaded and plenty of glass stems, so out the gate we’re already north of $250. Once he sobers up tomorrow, he may not even be interested any longer. Thank you for the feedback @Shit Snacks.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah I was thinking $200 was the basement and around $250 the ceiling for brand new units when they were available. If I do it, I would definitely throw in a mod with RP loaded and plenty of glass stems, so out the gate we’re already north of $250. Once he sobers up tomorrow, he may not even be interested any longer. Thank you for the feedback @Shit Snacks.

Yeah I think 190 +10 for shipping was the predominant pricing? So yeah even then with cooling stems and a mod that easily hits 250, especially with batteries included too
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Does anyone know what the full retail price was when the US Custom Splinter Z was readily available and at it’s peak price? One of my buddies has some gambling winnings burning a hole in his pocket and is willing and able to submit to some price gouging, if I’m willing (and stupid enough) to let go of one of mine. Thanks all.
The RBT store price for a custom Z was $179 plus $10 shipping
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
The RBT store price for a custom Z was $179 plus $10 shipping

That price fluctuated though, like there was a time there when purpleheart were more expensive than bubinga for example, so OP had asked for the peak pricing which I don't think was ever above $250 at most... I think they were up to like 220 or 230 at maximum.
 
Shit Snacks,

Kinick23

Well-Known Member
@GoldenBud they have blue available but will end up being $50 plus shipping from their overseas warehouse


need to select the 2ml tank size then add the coupon code ‘CheapVapingDeals’
 

TiSteamo

VAPEnsiero... sull'ali dorate...
I may have said that before but I just don't understand the fever to perfect the TCR mode when Rastabuddhatao recommends using the Splinter in wattage mode.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I may have said that before but I just don't understand the fever to perfect the TCR mode when Rastabuddhatao recommends using the Splinter in wattage mode.
Ryan's skill is in designing and producing great vapes, his personal preference for wattage isn't a referendum on the best use of the Splinter. He doesn't fuck with TC as much as we do and is less familiar with it than many of the Z owners on this thread. I think it's also partly a support decision: he made a great 510 device but it'd be unwieldy to help everyone get settings configured across a range of mods and firmware options
 
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