Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

[Pablito2502]

Hello everybody...I´m new to this forum and wanted to ask, if any form of "presentation" is wished here, before I may start with first questions in threads?
And further: I´m quite sure, that I would find answers to my question, if I read all the pages in this thread......which to be honest, seems to end up very tedious. Is it okay here at FC, if I post a question without checking all previous posts for a possible answer?

I am very happy to have found this forum and send warm greetings to all of you from Germany ;-)

 

[Summer]

Hello everybody...I´m new to this forum and wanted to ask, if any form of "presentation" is wished here, before I may start with first questions in threads?
And further: I´m quite sure, that I would find answers to my question, if I read all the pages in this thread......which to be honest, seems to end up very tedious. Is it okay here at FC, if I post a question without checking all previous posts for a possible answer?

I am very happy to have found this forum and send warm greetings to all of you from Germany ;-)

Welcome! No formal presentation is required to join the thread & ask a question. Even though it 's prefereable to try to read through the thread or use the search feature in the upper left corner, especially when it's a small thread, by all means feel free to post questions.

 

[Pablito2502]

thx for the quick reply, Summer! :-)

I own a Splinter Z for quite a while but until now, I only used it in wattage mode....now I want to start using it in TCR-mode, but am a bit unsure about the correct settings (never used TCR and find myself a little confused, understanding the "functions" of all the adjustable values).

Just to start understanding "the basics" of TCR-values:
- TCR: temperature-coefficient; has to "fit" to the material of the coil
- temperature: the temp I wish my Splinter to heat up to
- watt: is this value "only" to adjust, how fast my mod works in delivering the aimed temperature?
- ohm / resistance: if I didn´t get something wrong, this value is not manually adjustable. Does my mod "read" the restistance automatically?

At first I would be very thankful, if someone could tell me, if those thoughts are right or if I got something generally wrong ;-)

This question solved, I would afterwards love to step into:
- what values should I set my mod, to run the Splinter on it?
- is it a big advantage to use other "themes" (dunno if correct word) like arctic fox etc or do those change much in my mod and I should perhaps run the "regular" TCR-mode of the pre-installed theme of my mod?

Thank you for taking a newbie at hand, wich obviously has no clue of understanding and running TCR :-D

edit: is it okay to post these questions here or should they be moved because they are OT in a thread about the Splinter?

 

[Summer]

Relevant - What mod are you using?

 

[Pablito2502]

I would like to use my Dovpo Odin 200.
But could switch to another if it´d be better^^

 

[Shit Snacks]

I would like to use my Dovpo Odin 200.
But could switch to another if it´d be better^^

I do not know anything about that mod, but the benefits to installing one of the other firmware's like Arctic Fox is because it opens up a lot more for you to adjust in the settings to set up a proper temp control (and also adjust the auto shut-off timer so you can hold the trigger for longer than 10 or 15 seconds, and even use an auto fire cruise where you do not have to hold the button down) These firmwares only work on certain mods so yours may not be supported and I have no idea how good it would be to set up temp control TCR with its stock firmware...

 

[Pablito2502]

Thank you for that reply...I will check if my mod can be updated with arctic fox. Perhaps I will try the stock TCR-mode before....but before trying such, I would like to know, if the general things I hope to have understood about TC are right.
First I´ll look that up.....then I would love to know, which TCR-value I have to set for the Splinter ;-)

 

[Shit Snacks]

Thank you for that reply...I will check if my mod can be updated with arctic fox. Perhaps I will try the stock TCR-mode before....but before trying such, I would like to know, if the general things I hope to have understood about TC are right.
First I´ll look that up.....then I would love to know, which TCR-value I have to set for the Splinter ;-)

Sorry I don't really know all the technicalities, but TCR uses a value to give you an accurate temp control based off resistance. So you would use the cold resistance and you can lock that, but then you will want to tweak the TCR value up or down until you feel like you are getting accurate temp control... I think for a regular splinter, the TCR value should be around 125, but play around raising and/or lowering it by two or three at a time, testing at one set temperature like 380 with consistent same herbs grind load stem etc.

 

[Pablito2502]

Thank you :-)
Alright.....I think I will start playing with that.
One more question on "the basics": did I get it right that I should set the wattage at about the value, that I am used to from using the VW-mode?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Thank you :-)
Alright.....I think I will start playing with that.
One more question on "the basics": did I get it right that I should set the wattage at about the value, that I am used to from using the VW-mode?

Oh yeah I forgot about that question, so the wattage you are setting a max wattage, which can be 45 watts for a regular splinter, it will not need to use that much in normal use unless you really rip on it with low temps, it is just a maximum as it fluctuates to maintain temps while you draw...

 

[Summer]

@Pablito2502, I'm 99.9% certain that your mod is not upgradeable so you would need to use stock software. I would start off with not locking the resistance.

 

[Pablito2502]

Perfect! Thank you very much...I think, now I can give it a try after having checked for the possibility of changing the firmware ;-)

edit: just have read the post of Summer.....okay. I´ll double-check and if not possible start it with stock...

 

[Pablito2502]

Yeeeeeah.....what a satisfying experience! :-)
Had my first session in TCR-mode and it was very(!) nice....when vaping liquids, I´m used to take very long hits, which f.e. in topcoil-atomizers, gets a little too hot. Same problem (even a little bit more) with vaping of herbs. Yesterday I had none of those issues, because of using TCR.
The standard-firmware of my mod is not the best possible, but for the near future it will be absolutely sufficient^^
Thank you both, @Summer and @Shit Snacks for helping me out with my "beginner-questions"....I´m grateful for that! :-D

 

[bossman]

I'm about to try the Ravage230 bossman configuration with the Splinter V2. Up to which temp can I go without hotspots? with tubofirm, it's limited to 205C Imho, without any hotspots. but the hit is purely like a desktop tho. at 210C it's super strong but i could detect an hotspot there

with Red Panda I can go even 215C~? same TCR 145 **locked resistance 0.005 below the original detection**

I've never locked resistance on any of my Red Panda Splinter mods. There's still a bit of variance to the rate of extraction and performance at various temps depending on how charged the cells are. I tend to swap out or charge the cells as soon as they go below 3.7.

I recently switched all my Zs to Celsius and I now temp step from 180 to around 205° but haven't found it necessary to higher to extract as fully as I like.

I almost never start at high temps so I'm not the best person to weigh in on hot spots with a Red Panda Z in a speed bowl use case.

thx for the quick reply, Summer! :-)

I own a Splinter Z for quite a while but until now, I only used it in wattage mode....now I want to start using it in TCR-mode, but am a bit unsure about the correct settings (never used TCR and find myself a little confused, understanding the "functions" of all the adjustable values).

Just to start understanding "the basics" of TCR-values:
- TCR: temperature-coefficient; has to "fit" to the material of the coil
- temperature: the temp I wish my Splinter to heat up to
- watt: is this value "only" to adjust, how fast my mod works in delivering the aimed temperature?
- ohm / resistance: if I didn´t get something wrong, this value is not manually adjustable. Does my mod "read" the restistance automatically?

At first I would be very thankful, if someone could tell me, if those thoughts are right or if I got something generally wrong ;-)

This question solved, I would afterwards love to step into:
- what values should I set my mod, to run the Splinter on it?
- is it a big advantage to use other "themes" (dunno if correct word) like arctic fox etc or do those change much in my mod and I should perhaps run the "regular" TCR-mode of the pre-installed theme of my mod?

Thank you for taking a newbie at hand, wich obviously has no clue of understanding and running TCR :-D

edit: is it okay to post these questions here or should they be moved because they are OT in a thread about the Splinter?

Glad you're getting good TC results with your Odin. I'd recommend getting one of the two mods compatible with the Red Panda firmware: the Joyetech Espion or the Wismec Ravage230.

We discovered this was the best performing Splinter Z mod and firmware combo for TC. Since then I've sold off DNA250C mods that cost four times as much and have all four of my Zs on Red Panda mods now.

You can pm me if and when you get one and I'll share my Red Panda config file for easy setup. The one caveat is you need a windows computer to install Red Panda.

Joyetech Espion 200W Box Mod Kit $32.40

Check out these cheap deals for the Joyetech Espion Box Mod. If applicable, use discount coupon codes to get the best price or receive free shipping.

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Wismec Sinuous Ravage230 200W Kit $31.99

Here's a few cheap deals and discounts for the Wismec Sinuous Ravage230 Box Mod. If available use coupon code at checkout to get the best price.

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[Pablito2502]

To prevent this thread from being fed by me with too much OT stuff, I´m gonna write you a PM with some questions on Red Panda, compatibility, differences to the "regular" AF ;-)
Thank you for that hint for an affordable new mod with better TC-performance :-)

 

[jbm]

To prevent this thread from being fed by me with too much OT stuff, I´m gonna write you a PM with some questions on Red Panda, compatibility, differences to the "regular" AF ;-)

I for one would be fine with your asking those things here; it’s fairly relevant in terms of getting the best performance out of your Splinters, and @bossman is an excellent source of knowledge on this subject. It’s not like you’re asking how to change the battery in a Mighty.

 

[Pablito2502]

Hello @jbm ....nice, okay: so I´m gonna copy the questions out of my PM here for everybody ;-)

thank you for replying to my posts and hinting me on possible alternative mods to make my TC-experience even better.

I just looked for both mods and have read a little bit on NFE-sites about Red Panda, which has left a few questions:
- do I get it right, that RP is not different from the "regular" AF, but only the FW for mods with color-display? Or are there differences in how the RP-FW makes the mod work?
- obviously RP only seems to be compatible with those two mods, you have shared....none more? Didn´t find any other after having searched a bit...

Reasons for my questions:
- I don´t really like both mods (18650 battery, still too "small" to fit the Splinter Z without it "hanging over")
- so if RP wouldn´t be much different from reg. AF, I would look for a new mod that is compatible to reg. AF and would have a much bigger choice of mods available
- if PR is recognizably (does this word exist? sry->german dude^^) better than reg. AF, I´d decide which one of those two pleases me better and get that one...but until having that clear, I´m still hoping that there are other mods, with which I could perform compareably good ;-)

Thanks for having me here. FC contains really a bunch of information, that I don´t get in the forums I´m used to.
Greetings from Germany...Pablo

 

[Pablito2502]

Bossman answered on my PM:
- regular AF and RP don´t seem do be "same thing for different screens" -> RP performs better
- RP is actually only compatible to the two mods mentioned by him

Result:
I´ll look for sources to order one of those two mods here in Germany and am very grateful, that I then may come back to bossman, who will share his settings with me.

Thanks to everybody who helped me so far!
Greetings from abroad...Pablo

 

[jbm]

- I don´t really like both mods (18650 battery, still too "small" to fit the Splinter Z without it "hanging over")
- so if RP wouldn´t be much different from reg. AF, I would look for a new mod that is compatible to reg. AF and would have a much bigger choice of mods available
- if PR is recognizably (does this word exist? sry->german dude^^) better than reg. AF, I´d decide which one of those two pleases me better and get that one...but until having that clear, I´m still hoping that there are other mods, with which I could perform compareably good ;-)

Before the Ravage many of us were running Arctic Fox on the Wismec Reuleaux Gen3 Dual, which solves the overhang problem and is still a solid mod. The Reuleaux has a black and white screen, so it will only run AF, but the 510 attachment hole is plumb in the middle of the mod, so Splinters don’t overhang. But as @bossman says, it doesn’t perform as well as RP does.

 

[Shit Snacks]

thank you for replying to my posts and hinting me on possible alternative mods to make my TC-experience even better.

Just wanted to say, the splinter with red panda is not necessarily better than what you have, since as far as I know none of us have tried what you have... So how could we possibly know for sure? If you think it is working well for you now, then that's great!

I just looked for both mods and have read a little bit on NFE-sites about Red Panda, which has left a few questions:
- do I get it right, that RP is not different from the "regular" AF, but only the FW for mods with color-display? Or are there differences in how the RP-FW makes the mod work?
- obviously RP only seems to be compatible with those two mods, you have shared....none more? Didn´t find any other after having searched a bit...

Yes this is my understanding, it is basically just the same for color screens, but those are the only two mods that have that compatibility... It is not necessarily only the firmware, but also the mod, for example the RXgen3Dual may not be good for setting up temp control in my experience, while the P80 is for some reason...

Reasons for my questions:
- I don´t really like both mods (18650 battery, still too "small" to fit the Splinter Z without it "hanging over")
- so if RP wouldn´t be much different from reg. AF, I would look for a new mod that is compatible to reg. AF and would have a much bigger choice of mods available

If you do not like these mods, and do not want 18650 batteries, then yeah I wouldn't bother if you think you are getting good performance with what you have now...

Not sure what you mean about hanging over though, splinter z does not hangover on the Ravage or the Espion (only slightly on the front and back), it is actually a pretty perfect fit though for the sides... You can rest the mod on one of the smaller sides, to keep the splinter hovering above the table, without resting it at an angle with the mod on the table... Just like G3D and P80.

- if RP is recognizably (does this word exist? sry->german dude^^) better than reg. AF, I´d decide which one of those two pleases me better and get that one...but until having that clear, I´m still hoping that there are other mods, with which I could perform compareably good ;-)

Haha yes, recognizably or noticeably works too!

So I have a Splinter V2 set up with Arctic Fox on a P80 and accurate temp control for me using TCR 125 I think with locked resistance around .25 too and 45w max. Then I have a Splinter ZV1 on a Ravage with Red Panda using TCR 160 and locked resistance at .385 (so it just rounds up to .39 but on the low side) and Splinter ZV2 on an Espion with Red Panda using TCR 160 and locked resistance at .415 (so it just rounds up to .42 but on the low side) both with max wattage of 50w...

I originally had the ZV1 on a different Ravage, same settings, but unlocked resistance, and it was working well enough. Then I got the ZV2 and swapped it onto that Ravage instead, also seemed to be working well enough I think... However in use I had accidentally set it to stealth mode somehow, so I couldn't figure out why the screen kept shutting off when I was trying to press the trigger for a hit, until I plugged it into the computer and saw the stealth box checked lol (this is a big benefit of arctic fox and red panda, being able to use the computer to set things up)

When it stopped working though, this is my original black ravage btw, I decided to set up my newer purple ravage and the blue silver espion I had just got as well with the ZV1 and ZV2 respectively. In doing so, I seemed to discover that the unlocked resistance was not really working for me anymore with these two specific mods for some reason... So I used three different mods, running tubo firmware, each one displaying different cold resistance for each Z, and then kind of averaged out to use the resistance values I mentioned above (I chose to go on the low side, rounding up, based on the different values across the different mods I was seeing, I was testing the different values at one set temperature keeping the same TCR value, just tweaking by .002 at a time, before deciding the values I mentioned above seemed to work best for me)

Long story short I think I am getting pretty good consistent performance now with both of them, but the Espion is noticeably heavier than the Ravage (double-edged sword of more metal? I do really like the look and feel of the Espion, but not the weight and modest heft compared to the Ravage) and I think just generally the ZV2 runs hotter? I mean both are working in temp control, but like the range I am using is different, I can start lower with the ZV2 and I can go higher with the ZV1... I think I may put the ZV2 back on the original black ravage, where the resistance is unlocked, and try that out again, for the ergonomics first most, then I will see if I want to tweak it to the settings I have on the Espion... (could try ZV1 on Espion too and see if maybe the mod itself is more of a factor?) Not sure when I will do that though, right now I kind of like the difference between the two for some extra variety!

Anyway I meant to post this a while ago, like a few weeks, when I set them up as I described above... Bossman's advice is truly fantastic, but it is not necessarily universal, so find what works best for you!

 

[jbm]

You can rest the mod on one of the smaller sides, to keep the splinter hovering above the table, without resting it at an angle with the mod on the table... Just like G3D and P80.

I try not to rest it on the side that is a button, though. That might just be my OCD.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I try not to rest it on the side that is a button, though. That might just be my OCD.

Same! Although sometimes I do, and it is totally fine, for the Ravage and P80 at least

 

[bossman]

 

[ChilledAsian]

Just wanted to say, the splinter with red panda is not necessarily better than what you have, since as far as I know none of us have tried what you have... So how could we possibly know for sure? If you think it is working well for you now, then that's great!



Yes this is my understanding, it is basically just the same for color screens, but those are the only two mods that have that compatibility... It is not necessarily only the firmware, but also the mod, for example the RXgen3Dual may not be good for setting up temp control in my experience, while the P80 is for some reason...



If you do not like these mods, and do not want 18650 batteries, then yeah I wouldn't bother if you think you are getting good performance with what you have now...

Not sure what you mean about hanging over though, splinter z does not hangover on the Ravage or the Espion (only slightly on the front and back), it is actually a pretty perfect fit though for the sides... You can rest the mod on one of the smaller sides, to keep the splinter hovering above the table, without resting it at an angle with the mod on the table... Just like G3D and P80.



Haha yes, recognizably or noticeably works too!

So I have a Splinter V2 set up with Arctic Fox on a P80 and accurate temp control for me using TCR 125 I think with locked resistance around .25 too and 45w max. Then I have a Splinter ZV1 on a Ravage with Red Panda using TCR 160 and locked resistance at .385 (so it just rounds up to .39 but on the low side) and Splinter ZV2 on an Espion with Red Panda using TCR 160 and locked resistance at .415 (so it just rounds up to .42 but on the low side) both with max wattage of 50w...

I originally had the ZV1 on a different Ravage, same settings, but unlocked resistance, and it was working well enough. Then I got the ZV2 and swapped it onto that Ravage instead, also seemed to be working well enough I think... However in use I had accidentally set it to stealth mode somehow, so I couldn't figure out why the screen kept shutting off when I was trying to press the trigger for a hit, until I plugged it into the computer and saw the stealth box checked lol (this is a big benefit of arctic fox and red panda, being able to use the computer to set things up)

When it stopped working though, this is my original black ravage btw, I decided to set up my newer purple ravage and the blue silver espion I had just got as well with the ZV1 and ZV2 respectively. In doing so, I seemed to discover that the unlocked resistance was not really working for me anymore with these two specific mods for some reason... So I used three different mods, running tubo firmware, each one displaying different cold resistance for each Z, and then kind of averaged out to use the resistance values I mentioned above (I chose to go on the low side, rounding up, based on the different values across the different mods I was seeing, I was testing the different values at one set temperature keeping the same TCR value, just tweaking by .002 at a time, before deciding the values I mentioned above seemed to work best for me)

Long story short I think I am getting pretty good consistent performance now with both of them, but the Espion is noticeably heavier than the Ravage (double-edged sword of more metal? I do really like the look and feel of the Espion, but not the weight and modest heft compared to the Ravage) and I think just generally the ZV2 runs hotter? I mean both are working in temp control, but like the range I am using is different, I can start lower with the ZV2 and I can go higher with the ZV1... I think I may put the ZV2 back on the original black ravage, where the resistance is unlocked, and try that out again, for the ergonomics first most, then I will see if I want to tweak it to the settings I have on the Espion... (could try ZV1 on Espion too and see if maybe the mod itself is more of a factor?) Not sure when I will do that though, right now I kind of like the difference between the two for some extra variety!

Anyway I meant to post this a while ago, like a few weeks, when I set them up as I described above... Bossman's advice is truly fantastic, but it is not necessarily universal, so find what works best for you!

Is the sinuous P80 the best mod for a splinter v2?

 

[GoldenBud]

Is the sinuous P80 the best mod for a splinter v2?

one of the best options you can find today. P80 with tubomyfirmware worked great with the V2 at TCR 145 for me. but still need to try bossman configuration with my new Ravage230,
also depends if you want 1 or 2 battery mod