Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
And here I am again with a question I tried to google and the more I do the more confused I get.

I am looking into a Wismec Dual Mod.
Is it correct these Mods take flat-top 18650 ?

It's really scary to read on all the safety features in 18650 cells and I don't understand half of it.

Some say "unprotected" - sounds dangerous.

Can you recommend the safest 18650 for the Wismec Dual with the Splinter, please ?

Sony Konion US18650VTC5 - 2600mAh, 3,6V - 3,7V Flat Top ???
any good ?
I love the LG HG2 cells and have enjoyed the one VTC6 that came with my Tinymight. I've had good Splinter results with VTC5A cells too as well as Samsung 30Q but those are my oldest and have been relegated to induction heater duty.

Liionwholesale, Illumn, and Imr are the only stores I've used since they were recommended here as I was getting going.

I don't see an incredible deal right now but I'd encourage anyone with a Splinter Z to pick up a Wismec Sinuous at some point. Mine running Red Panda was easy to dial in and is the most precise, consistent mod/Z combo I've used.
 

TastyCakeWasTasty

butter your wood
Having a great time with my Z at the moment. Wattage mode is surprisingly easy between 33-40 watts :clap:

I’ve been trying TC with Tubo firmware, but mostly just for the cruise feature as the actual TC is a little inconsistent (does anyone have good PID/TCR settings?).

Really impressed with the Z’s performance overall.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Having a great time with my Z at the moment. Wattage mode is surprisingly easy between 33-40 watts :clap:

I’ve been trying TC with Tubo firmware, but mostly just for the cruise feature as the actual TC is a little inconsistent (does anyone have good PID/TCR settings?).

Really impressed with the Z’s performance overall.
To quote Owen Wilson in every movie role he ever had, "See that's exactly what I'm talking about..." I have four Zs and I was just saying to no one in particular that the Wismec Sinuous Ravage was even more consistent than my DNA250C mods that cost twice as much. Easy config with Red Panda too.
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
To quote Owen Wilson in every movie role he ever had, "See that's exactly what I'm talking about..." I have four Zs and I was just saying to no one in particular that the Wismec Sinuous Ravage was even more consistent than my DNA250C mods that cost twice as much. Easy config with Red Panda too.
Well you have me intrigued, my Paranormal is extremely consistent but it cost MUCH more. I've looked at a Centaurus recently but again they're not cheap so I might have to give one of these a try. I need a spare mod for my spare Z1 anyways.
 
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vapviking

Old and In the Way
To quote Owen Wilson in every movie role he ever had, "See that's exactly what I'm talking about..." I have four Zs and I was just saying to no one in particular that the Wismec Sinuous Ravage was even more consistent than my DNA250C mods that cost twice as much. Easy config with Red Panda too.
My Ravage 230 (running R Panda since day 1, which was just a month or two ago) stopped working yesterday. It will power up, but upon pushing fire button it shuts down abruptly. If triple clicked, it will go to modes menu, etc., just won't fire.
I have tried different batteries and a different atty, etc.; it's a problem with this mod.
Any suggestions?
 
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vapviking

Old and In the Way
maybe the 510 connector ?

I would take the batteries out and give that 510 pin a quick ISO cleaning with a Q-tip.
Will try that, thanks.
I have just emailed support and have already been given a 'request number' as my case is reviewed.
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
My Ravage 230 (running R Panda since day 1, which was just a month or two ago) stopped working yesterday. It will power up, but upon pushing fire button it shuts down abruptly. If triple clicked, it will go to modes menu, etc., just won't fire.
I have tried different batteries and a different atty, etc.; it's a problem with this mod.
Any suggestions?
Are you certain it's not just the display that's gone dark? Mine did something similar where it'd wake up but the fire button just turned the display off right away. I noticed that my Ravage would still hit like this and instead of fixing it I left it in a drawer for a while, replaced the batteries once or twice, and it started acting normally again. Not exactly a fix and not comforting quirk obviously; I'm just sharing because the weird display behavior seems similar.

Well you have me intrigued, my Paranormal is extremely consistent but it cost MUCH more. I've looked at a Centaurus recently but again they're not cheap so I might have to give one of these a try. I need a spare mod for my spare Z1 anyways.
Yeah, my other three Zs are all on DNA250C mods and while they all heat very evenly with nary a hotspot the DNA mods are a bit more fussy overall: an occasional temp protect warning that cuts a hit off after a few seconds or some variability in performance that I'll finesse with a resistance change or battery recharge.

Contrarywise, the Ravage, while not a fancy mod with great build quality, does a great job in TC mode from 340 to maybe 410° and is the same every time. It also reaches temp faster than my rxg3d Splinters and, unlike DNA mods, displays the live temp when firing.
 

vapviking

Old and In the Way
Are you certain it's not just the display that's gone dark? Mine did something similar where it'd wake up but the fire button just turned the display off right away. I noticed that my Ravage would still hit like this and instead of fixing it I left it in a drawer for a while, replaced the batteries once or twice, and it started acting normally again. Not exactly a fix and not comforting quirk obviously; I'm just sharing because the weird display behavior seems similar.
This is indeed the case! I'm enjoying a bowl to celebrate this minor victory.
I amended my email to Wismec support to refine the description of this issue and told them I'm willing to give it a day or two to see if it "comes back".

From this episode, I came to appreciate having a second mod to fall back on. It's the Sinuous P80 that I had thought I was dedicating to the new Sai, but since I've recently learned how to program and select modes I've been able to set that up easily, just used the same settings I had in the R230, set a mode in the P80 and pop the Splinter on.

I have been a very reluctant adopter of box mod-powered vapes - because of the various learning curves, but seeing as how the Splinter and the Sai are my 2 current favs, I don't have much choice!
Thanks @bossman.

I'm developing a short list of questions about certain mod settings for the Splinter V1, hope to write them up soon.
 

Helios

Mocking the nu Abnorml
I may be in da minority, I'm not one to shy away from handling gear, nor am I clumsy however with RBT being discontinued I'm torn between shelving the Z and propping her on display admiring its glory, and ripping on her until she's dead without any confidence in an aftermarket heads up. Thoughts and critics are welcome.
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
I may be in da minority, I'm not one to shy away from handling gear, nor am I clumsy however with RBT being discontinued I'm torn between shelving the Z and propping on display and revel in its glory or ripping on it until its dead without any confidence in an aftermarket fix. Thoughts and critics are welcome.
Simple, just buy a backup, then go to town! :D

I got my ZV1 from planet vape, unfortunately it does have a slight crack in the wood, so I may need another backup for this backup! PV hooked me up with some gorgeous bubinga grain however:



Got tubo firmware on the RXgen3Dual, but I am still trying to settle in on a TCR Value (with algo disabled so I didn't have to worry about the figuring out the proper PID values, though I have then for my SplinterV2 with ArcticFox on P80) I was going back and forth between 130 and 180 even, so tricky to tell what is happening, but I think the lower value is better as it seemed to mean less wattage when in use? But not sure it was extracting as well at upper temps though it did great at 320 (maybe too well??) so then I settled into 145 but I don't know if that is right either... I thought it would be easier to only be messing with one value, to hone in on the proper temperatures, but unfortunately that doesn't seem to be the case lol My Cold resistance seemed to be .403 if I zero all in the coil settings, but right when I turn it on it seems like it should be lower .392 or .396 (and when I tried it on the G3D stock it was .39) so I did try .403 at first but then tried .398 And yeah now I am locked at .392 which is how I had it when I was testing between TCR 130 and 180 then settling at 145... So hard to decide if I should be tweaking the resistance a little bit in the range above or continue only messing with the TCR, but then how can I decide which resistance is correct proper cold resistance?? Should probably test it on another mod, but.... ehhhh
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I may be in da minority, I'm not one to shy away from handling gear, nor am I clumsy however with RBT being discontinued I'm torn between shelving the Z and propping her on display admiring its glory, and ripping on her until she's dead without any confidence in an aftermarket heads up. Thoughts and critics are welcome.
I could never put my Z down for too long, it's just one of those devices I have to use sometimes. I babied my RBT gear before but I'm extra careful now because I would be heart broken to lose a device.

I hope this is just another bump in the road for RBT and Ryan starts things up again. With RBTopensource I have my fingers crossed that at the very least the basic parts will continue to make their way into wood workers hands who can shape devices if Ryan wants out of that part of the business.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Simple, just buy a backup, then go to town! :D

I got my ZV1 from planet vape, unfortunately it does have a slight crack in the wood, so I may need another backup for this backup! PV hooked me up with some gorgeous bubinga grain however:



Got tubo firmware on the RXgen3Dual, but I am still trying to settle in on a TCR Value (with algo disabled so I didn't have to worry about the figuring out the proper PID values, though I have then for my SplinterV2 with ArcticFox on P80) I was going back and forth between 130 and 180 even, so tricky to tell what is happening, but I think the lower value is better as it seemed to mean less wattage when in use? But not sure it was extracting as well at upper temps though it did great at 320 (maybe too well??) so then I settled into 145 but I don't know if that is right either... I thought it would be easier to only be messing with one value, to hone in on the proper temperatures, but unfortunately that doesn't seem to be the case lol My Cold resistance seemed to be .403 if I zero all in the coil settings, but right when I turn it on it seems like it should be lower .392 or .396 (and when I tried it on the G3D stock it was .39) so I did try .403 at first but then tried .398 And yeah now I am locked at .392 which is how I had it when I was testing between TCR 130 and 180 then settling at 145... So hard to decide if I should be tweaking the resistance a little bit in the range above or continue only messing with the TCR, but then how can I decide which resistance is correct proper cold resistance?? Should probably test it on another mod, but.... ehhhh
I have all my rxg3d Splinters at TCR 160. I only tweak resistance on my DNA mods and as you're aware I tend to leave it unlocked.

Your resistance saga makes me think of the fine tuning I've often done on my DNA250C Splinter Zs. Cutting to the chase a bit I just picked up a second Ravage and just like the ZV2 on my first one the custom wenge Z seems to shine in TC with nothing but TCR 125 (lowered from 160 and still quick to extract at only 350°) and a 50W max in the Red Panda profile plus accepting the unlocked cold resistance. And again I'm seeing quicker heatup even from a custom Z.

The size is admittedly more awkward than the Tinymight for my j-hooks and you know I'm using them anyway.

@SquirrelMaster I forget if you've tried your Z on a Ravage. I like mine so much I got another and all of my Zs were on DNA250C already. Oh and you have a TM too so you should try a custom j-hook at some point and it can serve double duty.
IMG_20200901_161143~2.jpg

I've got a cheap Joyetech Espion en route now too since it's the only other mod that supports Red Panda. I'll let y'all know how it goes of course.
@Shit Snacks yea Im thinking along these lines.. However wifey gives me that side eye reminding me of more pressing money matters lol.. I may have to sneak one in there shhh..
As someone who currently has four Zs I can attest to the appeal of backups.
 
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jbm

Well-Known Member
I've got a cheap Joyetech Espion en route now too since it's the only other mod that supports Red Panda. I'll let y'all know how it goes of course.
I have an Espion; it was the first mod I bought. You’ll like it, it’s solid. The button is on the side of the mod, but I like it. I ordered a Ravage and when it gets here I’ll probably put a custom Z on it.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
@bossman and @Shit Snacks you two without effort influenced me in pulling trigger on a Z from planetvape.ca lol 😂 wtf.. Thank God I paid my rent yesterday.. Hahaha

Any sales on a wisemec mod?
The Ravage isn't as small as the RX Gen3 Dual but it's a great performer. Red Panda install and initial config is easy on a pc.


That site will often have deals on the RX Gen3 Dual too though depending on your preferred colorway.
 

TastyCakeWasTasty

butter your wood
Simple, just buy a backup, then go to town! :D

I got my ZV1 from planet vape, unfortunately it does have a slight crack in the wood, so I may need another backup for this backup! PV hooked me up with some gorgeous bubinga grain however:



Got tubo firmware on the RXgen3Dual, but I am still trying to settle in on a TCR Value (with algo disabled so I didn't have to worry about the figuring out the proper PID values, though I have then for my SplinterV2 with ArcticFox on P80) I was going back and forth between 130 and 180 even, so tricky to tell what is happening, but I think the lower value is better as it seemed to mean less wattage when in use? But not sure it was extracting as well at upper temps though it did great at 320 (maybe too well??) so then I settled into 145 but I don't know if that is right either... I thought it would be easier to only be messing with one value, to hone in on the proper temperatures, but unfortunately that doesn't seem to be the case lol My Cold resistance seemed to be .403 if I zero all in the coil settings, but right when I turn it on it seems like it should be lower .392 or .396 (and when I tried it on the G3D stock it was .39) so I did try .403 at first but then tried .398 And yeah now I am locked at .392 which is how I had it when I was testing between TCR 130 and 180 then settling at 145... So hard to decide if I should be tweaking the resistance a little bit in the range above or continue only messing with the TCR, but then how can I decide which resistance is correct proper cold resistance?? Should probably test it on another mod, but.... ehhhh
I gave up on trying to use the Tubo software and jumped on Arctic Fox instead.

I was desperately looking around, but I think I got my setting from Anti-spleen on YouTube in the end.

Pid enabled, but left at default values (P=1850, I=650 IIRC), TCR set to 125 and wattage at 45W. My resistance is locked to 0.458 which is what my Z measures cold.

With these settings, I get the kind of performance expected at given temperatures. I get clouds without charring and performance that even exceeds my Tubo at times. Especially at lower temps, the benefits of the Z’s relatively massive ribbon heater are becoming clearer :science:

I’d still love to get a Ravage (mostly for the extra battery power), but for now this setup with my EVic Primo SE does the job very well.
 

floribud

Well-Known Member
I've got a cheap Joyetech Espion en route now too since it's the only other mod that supports Red Panda. I'll let y'all know how it goes of course.

As someone who currently has four Zs I can attest to the appeal of backups.
Was reading your post about the Ravage. I have an Espion mated to a Splinter v2. I love the combo. It works pretty well in wattage mode. Gave up on TCR a while back, I may have to try again someday, but I got comfortable working wattage mode and I can either rip or sip with no problems...
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Was reading your post about the Ravage. I have an Espion mated to a Splinter v2. I love the combo. It works pretty well in wattage mode. Gave up on TCR a while back, I may have to try again someday, but I got comfortable working wattage mode and I can either rip or sip with no problems...
Super cool. When I get TC dialed in I'll let you know my preferred settings.
 
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Spelaeus

Well-Known Member
Anyone try to use the Mountain Glass joints for repair yet? I just ordered some for a broken Z V2 that's been sitting in a drawer for ages. I made sure to order some extras since this will be my first attempt at cutting glass... I'll follow back up with how it goes.
 

jbm

Well-Known Member
So my Ravage arrived today, and I put my purple heart Z on it. Using 175 TCR, 42w in Red Panda. Can you lock resistance in Red Panda? And are those good values? I was vaping some herb at 350F and it seemed to take a while to get the heat soak. @bossman?
 
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joner

Well-Known Member
Anyone try to use the Mountain Glass joints for repair yet? I just ordered some for a broken Z V2 that's been sitting in a drawer for ages. I made sure to order some extras since this will be my first attempt at cutting glass... I'll follow back up with how it goes.
Which joints did you buy? I'd like to try and repair my z v2 (that's the blackwood one right?) that I broke quite some time ago
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
So my Ravage arrived today, and I put my purple heart Z on it. Using 175 TCR, 42w in Red Panda. Can you lock resistance in Red Panda? And are those good values? I was vaping some herb at 350F and it seemed to take a while to get the heat soak. @bossman?
My ZV2 is TCR 165 and my wenge custom is 125 for now. Both are 50W max with whatever the unlocked cold resistance was. Solid results from both Ravage Zs although the wenge is less even.

350° is about as low as I go with my Zs and I do prefer a Z that requires zero coaxing.
 
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