Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

Spelaeus

Well-Known Member
Which joints did you buy? I'd like to try and repair my z v2 (that's the blackwood one right?) that I broke quite some time ago
I wasn't entirely sure which to grab, but Chinese 19/22mm glass seemed the best bet. I grabbed these for a colored option (at my gf's request since this will be going to her if I get it fixed), and this just in case that doesn't work out. They're cheap enough that I didn't mind grabbing a few of each for some trial and error.

Edit: Yup, the Z V2 is the one in blackwood with Chinese glass.
 
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MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
I've done the glass repair with the mountian glass replacements. They've changed the item description since I last ordered them but I think it's the same.

I'm sure they're probably wondering why all of a sudden they are selling way more. Message me if you need any help with the repair. I have a good 7 or so under my belt.
 
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joner

Well-Known Member
I wasn't entirely sure which to grab, but Chinese 19/22mm glass seemed the best bet. I grabbed these for a colored option (at my gf's request since this will be going to her if I get it fixed), and this just in case that doesn't work out. They're cheap enough that I didn't mind grabbing a few of each for some trial and error.

Edit: Yup, the Z V2 is the one in blackwood with Chinese glass.
Thanks yea I was quite sure I had read they were 19/22, and had already filled up my cart...was just waiting to hear back in case! What are you going to use for adhesive/sealant?
 
joner,
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MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I have all my rxg3d Splinters at TCR 160. I only tweak resistance on my DNA mods and as you're aware I tend to leave it unlocked.

Your resistance saga makes me think of the fine tuning I've often done on my DNA250C Splinter Zs. Cutting to the chase a bit I just picked up a second Ravage and just like the ZV2 on my first one the custom wenge Z seems to shine in TC with nothing but TCR 125 (lowered from 160 and still quick to extract at only 350°) and a 50W max in the Red Panda profile plus accepting the unlocked cold resistance. And again I'm seeing quicker heatup even from a custom Z.

The size is admittedly more awkward than the Tinymight for my j-hooks and you know I'm using them anyway.

@SquirrelMaster I forget if you've tried your Z on a Ravage. I like mine so much I got another and all of my Zs were on DNA250C already. Oh and you have a TM too so you should try a custom j-hook at some point and it can serve double duty.
View attachment 2172

I've got a cheap Joyetech Espion en route now too since it's the only other mod that supports Red Panda. I'll let y'all know how it goes of course.

As someone who currently has four Zs I can attest to the appeal of backups.

Whoops, missed your post. I have only used my ZV1 and US Custom Z on my Lost Vape Paranormal DNA 250C, I haven't tried any other mods... yet ;). For that price I'll have to try one eventually. I've been considering a Lost Vape Centaurus but that's a lot of money that I don't need to spend. The Ravage on the other hand, that's easy to sweep under the rug.

I really like those OGB j-hooks and I need another j-hook after smashing mine last week. You keep tempting me with the pretty pics :lol:.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Whoops, missed your post. I have only used my ZV1 and US Custom Z on my Lost Vape Paranormal DNA 250C, I haven't tried any other mods... yet ;). For that price I'll have to try one eventually. I've been considering a Lost Vape Centaurus but that's a lot of money that I don't need to spend. The Ravage on the other hand, that's easy to sweep under the rug.

I really like those OGB j-hooks and I need another j-hook after smashing mine last week. You keep tempting me with the pretty pics :lol:.
Yeah fuck the Centaurus. The DNA250C board is a proven performer and is super smooth in both wattage and TC but the ergos with a Z are kinda bullshit it'd really just be another hundred dollar Paranormal with all the same quirks like the awkward 510 placement, unnecessary weight, and extra clicks to adjust temp.

I'll update this thread next week when the Espion arrives. I'm curious how much of the Ravage performance is the mod and how much is Red Panda.

And yeah, sorry for sounding like such a shill for the OGB. As everyone knows by now it's @Shit Snacks' fault for directing me to him. Even my cheap China glass j-hook was becoming a mainstay over the TM short stem, it's just that I tend to take every hit like I'm about to face a firing squad so I'll take all the cooling I can get.
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
@bossman
I forgot to mention, if you want live temps on a DNA mod you need a theme that supports it. I have the pip boy theme for specifically that reason as I watch the temperature climb before I hit it, it's really handy.

Yeah i was thinking a Centaurus would end up being the same with a facelift. Plus I just love being able to compare different devices, it's fun to test :science:.

I'm glad you and @Shit Snacks vouch for OGB, there is a surprisingly small number of places to find a j-hook, let alone a good one. Not enough people know how amazing they are!
 

jbm

Well-Known Member
I'm glad you and @Shit Snacks vouch for OGB, there is a surprisingly small number of places to find a j-hook, let alone a good one. Not enough people know how amazing they are!
I'm probably going to have to spring for that dimpled Sherlock of @bossman 's eventually: I have Lamart and GRAV j-hooks but I like the looks of that one. A lot. How would I go about ordering one?
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I'm probably going to have to spring for that dimpled Sherlock of @bossman 's eventually: I have Lamart and GRAV j-hooks but I like the looks of that one. A lot. How would I go about ordering one?

@SquirrelMaster thanks for that tip about the theme. I'll try that one on one of my Z mods. Wish we could get around the extra clicking. I temp step so it's always more fiddly than the Ravage or a rxg3d.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA

@SquirrelMaster thanks for that tip about the theme. I'll try that one on one of my Z mods. Wish we could get around the extra clicking. I temp step so it's always more fiddly than the Ravage or a rxg3d.
Yeah I really want to figure out how to crack the settings for my ZV1 on the tubo firmware G3D, so I can use the t-step feature like a boss, man :tup:

So I say “how do I get an exact copy of @bossman’s dimpled Sherlock?”
Send him the photo in the email, he should recognize the piece, it uses 15 mm tubing (my customs are 12 mm and shorter too) if you want to make any changes yourself, it helps to show him a drawing of what you want exactly (it can get more expensive depending how involved, and apparently it can be too complicated, judging by one that someone made in the tetra thread!)
 

Kinick23

Active Member
Happy Sunday All,

Thought I'd throw this post up in honor of RBT Open Source. First a shout out to @Unklmark68 for his creativity in putting this together. You did an awesome job! As many of you know and perhaps some that don't he's been making modified splinter and splinter Z's called the Vapor Lighter / Vapor Lighter Z. What's so different about it? The main thing that drew me in was the smaller form factor; being able to get a Z heater in a unit the size of the splinter had me interested to say the least! You can't use a traditional stem like the XL8R's so that is something to consider, but if you have a J Hook or water piece that takes an 18MM adapter you'll be set. In terms of the performance I'm really diggin it; with my traditional custom splinter Z it works best for me with a nice slow draw speed. With the Vapor Lighter Z I'm ripping this thing hard and fast and it just keeps up with me, similar to Lamart's tetra heaters where it's hard to overwhelm no matter how much/fast the air is being pulled through. So far my preferred way to use is on the J Hook; I like that I can keep the base secured in the joint for the duration of the sesh and just pull the heater off and on which makes checking and stirring the ABV super convenient. The base and unit are not that pressure fitted so doesn't "lock" securely into place when connected together (giggles a bit). This was originally one of the cons I had noted yet once you use it you can understand why its not a tighter fit (i.e. would make pulling the heater on and off more of a pain). Only other suggestion would be to stick an O-Ring in the base around the glass. Unless you have a scooper or shovel, loading perfectly into the middle without dropping specs around the side is a small challenge. Al that aside, I'm super happy with it and find it offers me a different experience that my OG Z so from that perspective it feels like a new and different vape!

PS - Watch out for Unklmark's Instagram auctions if your interested in one of these - not sure how many parts he has left to make them.

Cheers :cheers:

African Blackwood X Redheart Wood with black glass









 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Happy Sunday All,

Thought I'd throw this post up in honor of RBT Open Source. First a shout out to @Unklmark68 for his creativity in putting this together. You did an awesome job! As many of you know and perhaps some that don't he's been making modified splinter and splinter Z's called the Vapor Lighter / Vapor Lighter Z. What's so different about it? The main thing that drew me in was the smaller form factor; being able to get a Z heater in a unit the size of the splinter had me interested to say the least! You can't use a traditional stem like the XL8R's so that is something to consider, but if you have a J Hook or water piece that takes an 18MM adapter you'll be set. In terms of the performance I'm really diggin it; with my traditional custom splinter Z it works best for me with a nice slow draw speed. With the Vapor Lighter Z I'm ripping this thing hard and fast and it just keeps up with me, similar to Lamart's tetra heaters where it's hard to overwhelm no matter how much/fast the air is being pulled through. So far my preferred way to use is on the J Hook; I like that I can keep the base secured in the joint for the duration of the sesh and just pull the heater off and on which makes checking and stirring the ABV super convenient. The base and unit are not that pressure fitted so doesn't "lock" securely into place when connected together (giggles a bit). This was originally one of the cons I had noted yet once you use it you can understand why its not a tighter fit (i.e. would make pulling the heater on and off more of a pain). Only other suggestion would be to stick an O-Ring in the base around the glass. Unless you have a scooper or shovel, loading perfectly into the middle without dropping specs around the side is a small challenge. Al that aside, I'm super happy with it and find it offers me a different experience that my OG Z so from that perspective it feels like a new and different vape!

PS - Watch out for Unklmark's Instagram auctions if your interested in one of these - not sure how many parts he has left to make them.

Cheers :cheers:

African Blackwood X Redheart Wood with black glass
What a good looking custom 510 device, thanks for sharing.

While I don't fuck with Instagram, I appreciate your early review. I recently got two nice j-hooks and have been using my Zs with an 18mm WPA. I love everything about this setup except for the tall, awkward total size of mod, Z, and WPA, especially since the WPA can fall out.

About how much does the Vapor Lighter Z cost on the IG auction? Gawd, I do hate that name though even though it makes sense ritual-wise.

Cool project either way.
IMG_20200906_131528~2.jpg
 
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Kinick23

Active Member
@bossman I saw an auction about a month back that had a 200 bid at one point but not sure where it closed out, mine ended at 235.

I wish there was a mod in production with the 510 connection on the side of the device to cut down that verticality that would fit the Z frame.
 
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@bossman I saw an auction about a month back that had a 200 bid at one point but not sure where it closed out, mine ended at 235.

I wish there was a mod in production with the 510 connection on the side of the device to cut down that verticality that would fit the Z frame.
I've been working on a concept adapter for modifying the form factor of these setups -
 
That looks pretty slick! Nice work man :clap:

Does using the adaptor have any effect on your settings (tcr, cold resistance)?
yeah it's basically just a solid 510 extension cable. it adds about .02. I use TCR 160 and then each splinter has a different sweet spot resistance anyway so it doesn't feel much different having to play around with it. .400 to .46 depending on which version splinter
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
The Joyetech Espion arrived and gets a thumbs up for its nice build, nice button, and excellent Red Panda performance. It's also a bit cheaper than the Ravage. The two are nearly identical in size. I was hoping the Espion would be a bit smaller or at least shorter.
IMG_20200909_095311~2.jpg
 

vapviking

Old and In the Way
I have an update to a quick Ravage 230 story.
Picked it up a couple of months ago, love using it with RPanda and a Splinter v1+ and finally getting the hang of TC.

I told you guys the screen went blank, @bossman said it happened to him but his still produced heat.
I had already contaced Wismec with my issue, then told them I was willing to wait a bit to see if the screen 'came back' as bossman's had. Turned out mine was also still making heat, just no screen showing.

A couple of weeks later, support contacted me and said I'd be be sent a new one, just send a video showing the issue (so I wouldn't have to return to old one).
I admitted to installing 3rd party firmware and thanked them, but said, no thanks; this is the user's fault.

At that point I decided to see if I had done something wrong in settings.
Re-flashed the standard Wismec f/w and the mod was completely functional.
Re-flashed the RPanda and still, the screen would go blank on hitting fire button.

This is the D'oh! moment. In the settings, I finally saw that at some point I must have (inadvertantly) activated "Stealth Mode". Un-checked that box...
All is well, working fine, nevermind!
 

vapviking

Old and In the Way
I'm looking to basically dispose of my (all older) 18650's and replace with a new batch of 4, maybe 6 at most.
Use is in that Ravage 230 for Splinter v1, but also for Mi3, and a Sinuous P80 with a Sai (for wax) on it.

Been happy with LG HG2, I like the capacity of those. Would these still be a good choice? (I have seen them still available) for all these uses?
And, does the "INR" make a difference? I see them with and without that designation.

Lastly, a trusted US source?
tia.

Our village has a pretty robust recycling program for the usual suspects (plastics, glass, paper, metal). But I called Public Works about Li-ion battery recycling. "We don't take them, talk to the County."
The County website lists one building north of a nearby small city, and tells you to call ahead to arrange for someone to be there to receive your stuff. That was all prior to pandemic, so even that procedure may not be in place these days...
At the time I had about 5 Grasshopper batteries to recycle. The went, unfortunately, into the trash.
What do folks do with all the batteries going past their useful life all around us? Power tools, roombas, phones, the list goes on and on.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I'm looking to basically dispose of my (all older) 18650's and replace with a new batch of 4, maybe 6 at most.
Use is in that Ravage 230 for Splinter v1, but also for Mi3, and a Sinuous P80 with a Sai (for wax) on it.

Been happy with LG HG2, I like the capacity of those. Would these still be a good choice? (I have seen them still available) for all these uses?
And, does the "INR" make a difference? I see them with and without that designation.

Lastly, a trusted US source?
tia.

There's a link to recommended cells not far from the top. Scroll to the bottom for a list of retailers. I'm a big fan of the Molicel 26A especially for unregulated devices like the Mi3.
I agree with @SquirrelMaster that the 26A is the move. I have a mess of HG2s as well but was considering grabbing some for my Milaanas and maybe relegating some of the HG2s to my Flux Deluxe.

The HG2 cells have been great for me but alas they are apparently discontinued. Liionwholesale.com was where I spotted the 26As in stock. They're a legit seller, as are Illumn.com and imrbatteries.com

Edit: maybe I had the 26A confused with the VTC6, which is the same cell if I'm not mistaken. Anyway the VTC6 is at Liionwholesale and is a great choice for Milaana use. Six VTC6 cells should be just under $40.
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I have an update to a quick Ravage 230 story.
Picked it up a couple of months ago, love using it with RPanda and a Splinter v1+ and finally getting the hang of TC.

I told you guys the screen went blank, @bossman said it happened to him but his still produced heat.
I had already contaced Wismec with my issue, then told them I was willing to wait a bit to see if the screen 'came back' as bossman's had. Turned out mine was also still making heat, just no screen showing.

A couple of weeks later, support contacted me and said I'd be be sent a new one, just send a video showing the issue (so I wouldn't have to return to old one).
I admitted to installing 3rd party firmware and thanked them, but said, no thanks; this is the user's fault.

At that point I decided to see if I had done something wrong in settings.
Re-flashed the standard Wismec f/w and the mod was completely functional.
Re-flashed the RPanda and still, the screen would go blank on hitting fire button.

This is the D'oh! moment. In the settings, I finally saw that at some point I must have (inadvertantly) activated "Stealth Mode". Un-checked that box...
All is well, working fine, nevermind!
Perhaps adding a closing chapter to this epic saga: I think it's that little fourth button that's fucking us up. If you hold it down it enables/disables stealth mode and my guess is that we each managed to long press that button by accident at some point.

The Espion has that relatively useless extra button on the front. Speaking of the Espion, I've charged the cells in the mod twice now (a laziness habit carried over from my DNA250C mods) and it gets hotter than I'm comfortable with and hotter than the Ravage. Not sure if I should keep doing that if it's gonna feel like an electric hand warmer when I'm done.

IMG_20200920_090350~2.jpg
 
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