Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah I also posted one like this, with colored stems too, in the old splinter threads, wish it was easy to find again to share here now lol
Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
- Start date
Yeah I also posted one like this, with colored stems too, in the old splinter threads, wish it was easy to find again to share here now lol
Mr.Sifter
Well-Known Member
what I ordered is a US-Splinter .But that is already incorrect because all Splinter Z's are 19/22we'll just have to wait and see what arrives for @Mr.Sifter!
Not a Splinter Z custom.
this one
Rastabuddahtao SPLINTER vaporizer (US Version) | weedgadget
The Splinter adds voltage control to a mini convection heater giving consistent and uniform vaporization. Just thread it on to most mod boxes that produce at least 50 watts (sold separately) and you will have on-demand convection vapor, in the palm of your hand. The glass connection is a US...
www.weed-gadget.com
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
what I ordered is a US-Splinter .
Not a Splinter Z custom.
this one
Rastabuddahtao SPLINTER vaporizer (US Version) | weedgadget
The Splinter adds voltage control to a mini convection heater giving consistent and uniform vaporization. Just thread it on to most mod boxes that produce at least 50 watts (sold separately) and you will have on-demand convection vapor, in the palm of your hand. The glass connection is a US...
I am aware
I was just replying to the person who said that website listed the Z as being 19/19
I think you should expect that your Splinter will be 19/19, yes fine for xl8r regardless, but for aftermarket stems you may need to go custom order (or sand n grind down the joint) though there is a slight chance your splinter could be 19/22, which just means you will have more options for stems!
The Chemist
New member but long time lurker
Yes I made a mistake calling it a Splinter Z, it's a not a Z. And when you read the description of the vape they say it's a US 19/19 glass connection. I'm learning a lot of interesting details about the Splinter since you started with your questions @Mr.Sifter. The Splinter V1 was one of the first vape that I had at the beginning and I always loved the look and the vapor of the vape, after that the Splinter Z in purple heart was even better. I'm curious to know what your vape will have when you get it but rest assured that you wont regret your purchase.what I ordered is a US-Splinter .
Not a Splinter Z custom.
this one
Rastabuddahtao SPLINTER vaporizer (US Version) | weedgadget
The Splinter adds voltage control to a mini convection heater giving consistent and uniform vaporization. Just thread it on to most mod boxes that produce at least 50 watts (sold separately) and you will have on-demand convection vapor, in the palm of your hand. The glass connection is a US...
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
That is the LostVape Drone I believe, it is a DNA -chipped dual battery mod sized like a triple battery mod (the third battery slot is used to house a squonk ecig thing)
jbm
Well-Known Member
Even the Vs? Huh. I did not know that.But that is already incorrect because all Splinter Z's are 19/22
@jbm all Splinter Z were confirmed to be 19/22 a while ago, even the V's, hopefully mine will arrive this week and I can confirm!
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yup! Like you I also thought the ZV meant it would be 19/19 but I was disproved, discovering only the regular splinter was made in 19/19 to make it more compact, since the Z is the already not compact that wasn't a concern... if you want you can search the old thread to find the evidence lol
chaos191
Well-Known Member
So I have not had time and I'm going home to unpack my package But I bought the US custom Splinter Z That was for sale in the forum here I have no experience whatsoever can somebody advice me some quick settings for an RX Gen. 3 with sir my evic So I can at least load it up real quick when I get home and give 8A try
I don't want to screw it up as there is obviously no word G no service anymore so anybody could advise me to a good homes and I guess I should use it in wategmode for now
Krapp sorry about the double post
I don't want to screw it up as there is obviously no word G no service anymore so anybody could advise me to a good homes and I guess I should use it in wategmode for now
Krapp sorry about the double post
Mribisback_
Well-Known Member
Hello all. For anyone having trouble finding glass, I cut an EQ bowl down to length and it has been working 100%. I did have to sand the inside near the top to accommodate the wider lip on the EQ glass.
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
I used a Dremel to grind my 19/26mm wpa's and although it took a while they work pretty well. I should have pulled out my wet tile saw in hindsight but part of me was afraid it would explode the glass in my hands. What tool did you use?
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah just use wattage for starters before you dive into setting up temp control, start with 32 watts and go up to 45 watts, get a feel for it with an 8 to 15 second steady draw, medium fine consistent grind gently tamped into basket screen or sucked up like a straw (I take my first hit upside down to seat the load in the basket firmly) Hold the trigger for a few seconds before you start inhaling (to preheat), and similarly let go of it a few seconds before you are ready to stop inhaling (to clear)... If the mod still has stock from where just be mindful of the 10 or 15 second auto shut off, make sure you let go of the button and press it again before it shuts off is all (this is a way to trick it, until you can get custom from where set up where you can adjust it, unless your mod already has a custom firmware on it)
Mribisback_
Well-Known Member
I just used one of the cheap stick shaped glass cutting tools, some sandpaper to even out the cut, and a torch flame to smooth out the edges. I posted more of technique in another comment if you'd like to check my history.
Mr.Sifter
Well-Known Member
Now I am standing in the jungle of mods and 18650 batteries.
puh.
I plan on getting a cheap, used Wismec Dual.
Anything I have to conisider with the batteries?
Or can I throw in any 18650?
LG HG2 and Samsung30Q and Sony VTC5 get mentioned a lot but thats in older posts. Thats why I am asking.
puh.
I plan on getting a cheap, used Wismec Dual.
Anything I have to conisider with the batteries?
Or can I throw in any 18650?
LG HG2 and Samsung30Q and Sony VTC5 get mentioned a lot but thats in older posts. Thats why I am asking.
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Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Those are still the go to batteries, also LG HE4 Samsung 25R Sony VTC6 among others I don't know... Just be sure you buy them from a safe reliable source, I have no idea what that would be where you are...
TastyCakeWasTasty
butter your wood
I remember seeing (maybe months ago) people using some kind of spacer/extension to get around “device too hot” messages.
Any ideas what those the spacer things are called and where to get them?
Actually I think I saw people using them to fit Splinters onto smaller mods like the eLeaf too.
@jbm thanks dude
Any ideas what those the spacer things are called and where to get them?
Actually I think I saw people using them to fit Splinters onto smaller mods like the eLeaf too.
@jbm thanks dude
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jbm
Well-Known Member
It’s called a heat sink. I saw them on Amazon, most of the vape stores will carry them as well.
vapviking
Old & In the Way
I was a total noob to mods and stuff a year and a half ago.
My first mod was a (Wismec) Sinuous P80, lovely little single battery mod, inexpensive. Next one was/is a (Wismec) Ravage 230, 2 battery, and I'm loving it. It can run Red Panda firmware, which is programmable thru a PC, and a lot easier to set up that way. (The P80 can run Arctic Fox, which can also do that. These are both relatively inexpensive, good mods. The Ravage was purchased on sale recently in US for $29. The mods with DNA chip will be bigger screen (often color) and fancier on the programming, but I've personally not found need to go for that much $.
The designer, Ryan, uses basic "Wattage" mode (also called power mode) and can be run this way right out of the box. You have to learn to "pulse" the fire button, and stop heat altogether at some point, or these vapes will combust. The wattage mode is very close to what would be called an unregulated vape.
The fancier firmwares in the mods can add varying degrees of regulation to the heat. I have recently landed on a temp control setting (finally!) and it is pure pleasure, without the worry that it might all char (my wife could never get hang of it before, in wattage mode).
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
I love my Lost Vape Paranormal DNA 250C but it's overkill for most especially if you only plan to use in wattage. Great mod though, TCR is amazing on DNA mods.
Charger Reviews - If you want an external charger.
Battery Reviews - I use Molicel 26A, Samsung 30Q and Sony VTC6 but there are others that work well. In the tables in that link there is a list of recommended retailers.
chaos191
Well-Known Member
I just picked a US custom Splinter Z in bubinga and a Wismec RX gen3 with surmyevic software. I basically haven't a clue what I'm doing... My Tubo was basically set up, a few adjustments but that's it, I could really use help navigating and trying to get this beauty to work for me.... Finally I'm paralyzed and my lungs aren't that strong sort of changes the vapes that work for me or the way that I use them fyi. Thanks a lot :-)
Considering resetting to factory but hope not to have to do that.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Yeah, that's a Drone. They are scarce, expensive and bigger than needed for a two cell mod. The mods I recommend are the Wismec RX Gen3 Dual and the Sinuous Ravage230. The Ravage is the most precise and consistent of any budget TC mod I've tried, although it's a bit taller and bigger than the rxg3d so the ergos aren't as good.
Those settings look good for a Bubinga Z but the resistance looks high. I've had ZV2s that run up in the .46 range sometimes but my custom Zs are generally on the .39 to .42 range.I just picked a US custom Splinter Z in bubinga and a Wismec RX gen3 with surmyevic software. I basically haven't a clue what I'm doing... My Tubo was basically set up, a few adjustments but that's it, I could really use help navigating and trying to get this beauty to work for me.... Finally I'm paralyzed and my lungs aren't that strong sort of changes the vapes that work for me or the way that I use them fyi. Thanks a lot :-)
Considering resetting to factory but hope not to have to do that.
Accepting the cold measured resistance should work fine in any case. Most folks lock the resistance after that initial reading. You also need to be careful not to accept a recheck. If your mod measures a Z that isn't completely cold it'll suggest a new resistance way higher than normal and you risk combustion. Just something to look out for.
If you're new to Splinters you might just switch over to wattage for the first little while. Those settings still look solid apart from the high resistance setting but in wattage it's only the one setting to worry about. Like @Shit Snacks says, you can just get used to your Z in wattage from 32 to 45W. Start in the mid to high thirties maybe and be cognizant of the device warming up initially. Some people just hold the button in wattage for five seconds a few times to warm up the heater and glass a bit before their first draw. My custom Zs are a bit slower off the line than my ZV2s.
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
Personally I have good luck with TCR 160. try locking ohms closer to .40 I had better results with arctic fox than surmyevic if you do wind up resetting.I just picked a US custom Splinter Z in bubinga and a Wismec RX gen3 with surmyevic software. I basically haven't a clue what I'm doing... My Tubo was basically set up, a few adjustments but that's it, I could really use help navigating and trying to get this beauty to work for me.... Finally I'm paralyzed and my lungs aren't that strong sort of changes the vapes that work for me or the way that I use them fyi. Thanks a lot :-)
Considering resetting to factory but hope not to have to do that.
for what it's worth my GF has weak lungs and she can't get a good hit off of these. you might want to look into something forced air like a volcano. the bags can be a lot easier to use and the vape itself less finicky.
chaos191
Well-Known Member
So a few noob questions what does the resistance affect and how can I change it? Also, how do I switch to wattage mode using sur myevic... Am I correct in assuming that the mod reads and accepts the cold measured resistance when the splinter is on the mod and it is turned on?
Thanks
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
I'll go into detail about editing settings but remember that one good way to get familiar with your new Z is to just use wattage.
If you press the Up and Fire buttons at the same time you'll enter into the mod settings, called Menus on my old flavor of myevic. It's good to familiarize yourself with that whole menu but you'll never use most of it.
The resistance is set from Menus > Coils > Manage.
Menus > Vaping > Modes looks like this for me (note that everything is disabled with an N except for TC which has an A for Active and Pwr which has a Y to show that its enabled):
Menus > Interface > Clicks submenu is handy too. I have two clicks set to Edit and three clicks set to Modes. Since I only have TCR and Power (i.e. wattage) modes enabled the triple click becomes an easy way to switch between them from the main screen. And if I double click I can edit the displayed main screen stuff like max wattage, resistance, or even the TCR value.
Menus > Interface > UI can be changed from 1 to 2 if you prefer a slightly less busy main screen with larger numbers.
And of course all these things are just hassles of the initial config. You'll only need to use the up and down buttons for temp or wattage once you're dialed in.