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RBT Milaana 1, 2, 3

4everpushingaboulder

Smoker of Meat, Vaper of Weed
I'm having the same issue as you. The button started going warm and now it doesn't work. I'm gonna open it up and see what I can do. Does anyone here know if KGWoodcrafts is still doing repair work?
There’s a YouTube video with Ryan doing a complete tear down of the MI3. May give you enough to pull the button and check connections.
Also somewhere earlier in this thread there is a link to the button on Amazon if you need to replace. I’d bet it’s a loose connection.
 

VapePerson

Well-Known Member
Something's fucky with my M3. Bought new batteries--GREAT! Fantastic! Holy shit, why didn't I do this before!? They were molycel p26as from 18650batterystore.com. Then, I wake up, and shit's not working. It's taking too long to get a hit, the batteries won't go below 4V. Things do not get better from there.

I cleaned the brass plate and nut with iso. Meh results. Tried baking soda, vinegar, and salt, meh results and scratched it. IDK if that affects things. Then, when putting things back on, I lost that thiiiiiin ass washer between the guitar pick and the plate. Oof. Is that necessary?

Then, I discovered I might've turned the long screw in, and pulled it out, and things are slightly better but I know that's higher than it was before and it's still not perfect. I put it roughly where it was before and it's spotty. oof.

What did I do? Just got my vigurex and with the new batteries I was finally enjoying efficiency. Still, it wasn't the 7 second wonder everyone else said it was; more like 15 even at its best before...

What did I break? :lol:
Edit: the washer makes contact, where can I get a new one of those? Also, it was in the wrong place on my Mi3.
 
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VapePerson,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Are you talking about the long screw that goes through all the device and acts as a post for the upper battery terminal? It's been an issue since day one in this design. I don't know why Ryan did not at least put a crimped ring terminal down below on the heater wire, that would at least have prevented it from getting loose and moving out of the way.

But as it, when that long screw unwinds, the heater wire which is just sandwiched between the screw flat head and the wood will get loose and make a poor connection, lowering drastically your power output. So you need to screw it back counter-clockwise from the top as much as you can, in order to restore that connection. But if in the mean time part of the heater wire moved out of the way, then you won't be able to bite as many metal strands as it was originally, unless you open your device bottom.

There were pictures of the Milaana guts somewhere in this thread, if they are gone I could send you some. But I hope just screwing it tight again will get you back on track, as on early models opening the bottom and putting it back cleanly was a bit involved.
 

VapePerson

Well-Known Member
Are you talking about the long screw that goes through all the device and acts as a post for the upper battery terminal? It's been an issue since day one in this design. I don't know why Ryan did not at least put a crimped ring terminal down below on the heater wire, that would at least have prevented it from getting loose and moving out of the way.

But as it, when that long screw unwinds, the heater wire which is just sandwiched between the screw flat head and the wood will get loose and make a poor connection, lowering drastically your power output. So you need to screw it back counter-clockwise from the top as much as you can, in order to restore that connection. But if in the mean time part of the heater wire moved out of the way, then you won't be able to bite as many metal strands as it was originally, unless you open your device bottom.

There were pictures of the Milaana guts somewhere in this thread, if they are gone I could send you some. But I hope just screwing it tight again will get you back on track, as on early models opening the bottom and putting it back cleanly was a bit involved.
Well it's one of the original 100 MI3s, so I might have to get a bit... involved. If someone had a link to those instructions, that would be great.
 

VapePerson

Well-Known Member
Just try first counter clockwise from the top until it can't go further, might be enough.
I mentioned having tried that but it didn't really work, unless that ultra flat washer was absolutely necessary (but the issues started before I lost that, and it was in the wrong place from the time I recieved my unit) :(

Edit: popped her open, nope, making full contact at the base with that screw. Actually a really cool looking phillips head, instead of the usual JIS-looking-screws you often see on things. Made sure the long brass screw was making contact, it was. Battery at 4.20. 🔥-material. Somehow it's just under burning the material yet not giving a hit at all no matter my draw. Got out my old battery, couldn't get anything past ~4.00V, same as with the 2 new ones.

WTF?
 
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VapePerson,

VapePerson

Well-Known Member
maybe your button failed. try shorting the posts together
If the button failed wouldn't I not get any hits at all? I'll try it, no problem, but what is explicitly meant by short the posts with a screwdriver? I see this tip earlier in the thread as well:
"take off the bottom plate and on the back of the button, the wires attach via screw terminals. you can short them with a screwdriver to test to see if the button is bad or not. if its bad you should have heat when this is done, wear some gloves if you are not the careful type."
 
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4everpushingaboulder

Smoker of Meat, Vaper of Weed
If the button failed wouldn't I not get any hits at all? I'll try it, no problem, but what is explicitly meant by short the posts with a screwdriver? I see this tip earlier in the thread as well:
"take off the bottom plate and on the back of the button, the wires attach via screw terminals. you can short them with a screwdriver to test to see if the button is bad or not. if its bad you should have heat when this is done, wear some gloves if you are not the careful type."
Shorting posts means taking a metal object like a screwdriver and touching both the posts on the bottom of the button. That completes a circuit, bypassing the button function itself as the current is now carried by the screwdriver.
 

VapePerson

Well-Known Member
Shorting posts means taking a metal object like a screwdriver and touching both the posts on the bottom of the button. That completes a circuit, bypassing the button function itself as the current is now carried by the screwdriver.
Thanks fren, let me go out and buy some gloves and I'll edit this with the results. :)
 
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VapePerson

Well-Known Member
Just use a test light or volt meter
Sorry, tower--unable. Don't have either.

It’s only 4v. Enough to tickle a little. Not enough to hurt.
There were sparks when I shorted the post but IDK about heat. However, that battery got drained below 4V! :rockon: Now, here's what's confusing me: I reassembled everything swapped batteries again, and took a killer hit; I'm not understanding why it decided to work then after 2 days of not working. I've had this thing for a couple months now, I know how it should work and it's still working... differently than it was a couple days ago, you feel me? I had to draw for a solid 17 seconds and it didn't build heat like it used to.

What gives? I still feel like there's something wrong with it. I'm charging up that battery to full to do another test.
Isn't it also a pretty easy job to just replace the questionable switch?
Looks like it would be super easy, nothing is even soldered down. Anyone know of different switch suggestions from the stock? I know you can get the OG here, dirt cheap, but I've always kind of hated the feel and want more of a tactile response to *know* it's on.
 
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Trackrat

Well-Known Member
Sorry, tower--unable. Don't have either.


There were sparks when I shorted the post but IDK about heat. However, that battery got drained below 4V! :rockon: Now, here's what's confusing me: I reassembled everything swapped batteries again, and took a killer hit; I'm not understanding why it decided to work then after 2 days of not working. I've had this thing for a couple months now, I know how it should work and it's still working... differently than it was a couple days ago, you feel me? I had to draw for a solid 17 seconds and it didn't build heat like it used to.

What gives? I still feel like there's something wrong with it. I'm charging up that battery to full to do another test.

Looks like it would be super easy, nothing is even soldered down. Anyone know of different switch suggestions from the stock? I know you can get the OG here, dirt cheap, but I've always kind of hated the feel and want more of a tactile response to *know* it's on.
If you tightened the wires then I feel the switch is starting to fail. My switch failed. It started to lose power. Worked great sometimes, then suddenly quit. Test light confirmed it shorted out. Ryan sent me another one.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
The switching should ideally have been MOSFET based, as those small switches are not rated for that much current. But the most important is that you are careful to always make either full contact or no contact. No half-pushing or what not. Aim for a firm click and hold steady until you release. Should help reduce arcing and make the contacts last longer.

@VapePerson: since you opened it, you could put a dab of glue on that screw head once you're sure it's fully tightened. Ryan started doing that at some point, it's even surprising yours got loose in the first place.
 

Kudzu407

Para-Vaper
The Nunchuck rocks! I agree @Kudzu407 the form factor is great, feels very natural in the hand even upside down with a hook.

It's crazy how much the flash (2nd pic) changes the color of the purpleheart!
Nice man ! Yeah that’s one hell of a difference in photo colors but I like em both. Nice matching set for sure.If you don’t have one of the V3 vapor lighters he makes check em out as they are one of my favorites.
 
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