Phase3 Vaporizers

[dimmusp]

I also started using a cup screen to hold my balls

 

[invertedisdead]

Well I must admit that i had pretty even abv with the short Simax 14 to 19 adapter but this makes the 95 to 99% .
Yeah i have also 14/10 designs,but it is easier for me to cut 14/23 to size,cause also saw them sold at couple of places,but shipping to my country is unreasonably expensive,i would have to look up for some in the US to resend them to me,cause i dont feel like paying 80 bucks for shipping alone.
It doesnt wobble even one bit comapared to full length joints.
I also started using a cup screen to hold my balls,it really made the previous one obsolete. You just gotta make sure to squeeze them a bit so they can hold tight. There is a company that makes customs ones around he ,but are like 2 euro a piece,i am think of ordering a batch with coarser mesh,the arizer cup screens are bit too weak for me.I am thinking 17mm will be ideal, compared to 16mm for the arizer as OD.That cup narrows the airflow a bit compared to a standart round screen.You can see on the PV stem hot there is place for a larger rim.

Nice, I ordered some Simax adapters a while ago to try but they never showed up, I just assumed it was due to COVID stuff so I haven't reached out yet to check the status. They look like they would work better than the one I'm currently using since they don't seem to flare out below the grind.

That makes sense about the shipping costs, I understand how that would be cost prohibitive. That's really great to hear that the cut down joints don't wobble at all, could be a good option then!

What do you like about the rimmed screen over a standard screen for retaining the beads? I was thinking of seeing if my glassblower could put a little lip on the heater shell right where its fused to the the male joint, that way the screen could "sit" on that edge, and the weight of the beads on top should lock the screen into place.

 

[MileHighHuman]

Just my

I had the ELEV8R with shorter joint. It worked / sealed, and would be fine, but the normal length joints do feel more secure and prevent any possible paranoia of it falling out.

I prefer the normal size joints better, but i'd try if it does extract better being closer to the heater. I'd personally probably try the ELB before the shorter joint, but all people have different preferences

Off topic questions:

- Have you tried topping any bowls with concentrates?

- Which size 710 coil clip are you using? Does even it matter which size is used?

 

[invertedisdead]

Just my

I had the ELEV8R with shorter joint. It worked / sealed, and would be fine, but the normal length joints do feel more secure and prevent any possible paranoia of it falling out.

I prefer the normal size joints better, but i'd try if it does extract better being closer to the heater. I'd personally probably try the ELB before the shorter joint, but all people have different preferences

Off topic questions:

- Have you tried topping any bowls with concentrates?

- Which size 710 coil clip are you using? Does even it matter which size is used?

I'm definitely liking the idea of cutting the joint down and being able to convert the actual female joint of an 18F adapter into the bowl like @Abysmal Vapor mentioned - that sounds really easy to load/unload, and then the herb isn't so deep when loading like my current adapter-bowl where the screen sits under the female joint; I really like the idea of that, seems like it would feel a lot more like a regular bowl, and not so much like a jerry-rigged female-to-male adapter. Plus it would keep everything affordable/modular which I like the idea of.

The ELB would put the load the closest to the heater, but it would be a lot easier to stir or change the load with a proper bowl versus loading the stem.

I actually haven't tried any concentrate toppers, the flavors been so lively with this vape I haven't really felt bothered to press any rosin (plus to conserve the stash) but I might press a little bit of this Wet Paint and give it a try

I'm not sure off the top of my head what size clip I'm actually using because I have a few different sets of his, but I'll probably just include a few with the heater shell since they go together.

 

[MileHighHuman]

I'm definitely liking the idea of cutting the joint down and being able to convert the actual female joint of an 18F adapter into the bowl like @Abysmal Vapor mentioned - that sounds really easy to load/unload, and then the herb isn't so deep when loading like my current adapter-bowl where the screen sits under the female joint; I really like the idea of that, seems like it would feel a lot more like a regular bowl, and not so much like a jerry-rigged female-to-male adapter. Plus it would keep everything affordable/modular which I like the idea of.

The ELB would put the load the closest to the heater, but it would be a lot easier to stir or change the load with a proper bowl versus loading the stem.

I actually haven't tried any concentrate toppers, the flavors been so lively with this vape I haven't really felt bothered to press any rosin (plus to conserve the stash) but I might press a little bit of this Wet Paint and give it a try

I'm not sure off the top of my head what size clip I'm actually using because I have a few different sets of his, but I'll probably just include a few with the heater shell since they go together.

So y'all are talking about cutting the joint in half on the bowl (adapter) ?

I agree, that does sound like it would make for easy loading / unloading. Keep me updated!

( I was confused thinking y'all were cutting the joint in half thats with the heater, like the ELEV8R )

 

[invertedisdead]

So y'all are talking about cutting the joint in half on the bowl (adapter) ?

I agree, that does sound like it would make for easy loading / unloading. Keep me updated!

( I was confused thinking y'all were cutting the joint in half thats with the heater, like the ELEV8R )

We're talking about cutting the joint on the heater, and then making the female joint the bowl, with a screen at the end of the grind. But it's all just ideas for right now.

@nonamekevin hola amigo what do you think about the cut joint, is it stable? Do you know how long the male joint is on your elev8r heater?

Loaded some Platinum OG in the InV, blacked out for a few hours, woke up and just drew out a pretty unique way of holding beads without using metal screens... could have potential - time for another pondering session... seems to help the ideas start flowing

 

[nonamekevin]

@nonamekevin hola amigo what do you think about the cut joint, is it stable? Do you know how long the male joint is on your elev8r heater?

Hello friend! Took a quick measurement, and the elev8r male joint is between 8mm - 8.5mm. Also, it's an unground joint.

I wish it was a tad longer. Another 1.5mm isn't a lot, but if it was a full 10mm, it would feel more stable for sure. I've seen 14/10 taper male joints before but not 19/10. I think 19/26 is standard.

 

[invertedisdead]

Hello friend! Took a quick measurement, and the elev8r male joint is between 8mm - 8.5mm. Also, it's an unground joint.

I wish it was a tad longer. Another 1.5mm isn't a lot, but if it was a full 10mm, it would feel more stable for sure. I've seen 14/10 taper male joints before but not 19/10. I think 19/26 is standard.

Thank you for that! I can definitely understand an extra 1.5mm being more stable, that's almost 20% more contact

My joint is 19/22 - I was thinking perhaps cut it in half right at 11mm.

I found 19/10 in size charts, but I wasn't able to find anybody actually selling them. The idea of cutting the joint down and using the standard female joint as the bowl is clever, I'm interested to try that!

 

[nonamekevin]

Thank you for that! I can definitely understand an extra 1.5mm being more stable, that's almost 20% more contact

My joint is 19/22 - I was thinking perhaps cut it in half right at 11mm.

I found 19/10 in size charts, but I wasn't able to find anybody actually selling them. The idea of cutting the joint down and using the standard female joint as the bowl is clever, I'm interested to try that!

I was thinking about this as well.

This might not be the best idea, but I was thinking, if you cut down the 19/22 joint, the part that you cut off could be used as the foundation for the new bowl. I'd imagine that you'd want to put a little glass rim or shelf on the bottom of the joint so a screen could be placed in there, and once you drop the cutoff male joint into the female joint, it's pretty much stuck there. So it would turn into a dedicated bowl for the vape. Also, the capacity of the joint would be on the smaller side. But, it would get the herb as close to the heater as possible, and there wouldn't be any scrap or waste glass pieces.

Here's the quickest/dirtiest drawing of what I'm talking about. The two pieces wouldn't fit together exactly due to the blade kerf.

 

[lazylathe]

Another idea could be this

I use an 18mm to 14mm adapter, drop one of the above screens in and then a nice fine mesh regular screen is placed over the basket.
The raises the herb, is easy to use, clean and load and empty.

I know it is metal...just an idea and it has worked well for years for me!

 

[invertedisdead]

I was thinking about this as well.

This might not be the best idea, but I was thinking, if you cut down the 19/22 joint, the part that you cut off could be used as the foundation for the new bowl. I'd imagine that you'd want to put a little glass rim or shelf on the bottom of the joint so a screen could be placed in there, and once you drop the cutoff male joint into the female joint, it's pretty much stuck there. So it would turn into a dedicated bowl for the vape. Also, the capacity of the joint would be on the smaller side. But, it would get the herb as close to the heater as possible, and there wouldn't be any scrap or waste glass pieces.

Here's the quickest/dirtiest drawing of what I'm talking about. The two pieces wouldn't fit together exactly due to the blade kerf.

I like that resourcefulness!
Could probably then use a rimmed basket screen like @Abysmal Vapor was talking about since it would already fit the end of the joint, and then the screen would be sandwiched between the two pieces of glass

Another idea could be this

I use an 18mm to 14mm adapter, drop one of the above screens in and then a nice fine mesh regular screen is placed over the basket.
The raises the herb, is easy to use, clean and load and empty.

I know it is metal...just an idea and it has worked well for years for me!

That sounds like another effective method!

I agree though, it would be cool if it wasn't metal

I was thinking last night that I 100% still want to do the all glass bowl. Did some tests just inhaling off the end of the bowl with the heater attached - with and without the screen in the bowl. Could be placebo, but to me the screen added an overall bitter taste and maybe a little harshness.

When inhaling from an empty bowl with the heater attached, the screen tastes and smells like some of my wax pen where concentrates are vaporized directly off a stainless steel coil. What I think happens is when you pull hot air over dried plant material, some of the oil melts down onto the screen and that oil gets polymerized onto the metal mesh.

Taking things back to the old school days of FC, in this thread critical discussion of any and all materials used to construct this vaporizer is encouraged

 

[MileHighHuman]

I like that resourcefulness!
Could probably then use a rimmed basket screen like @Abysmal Vapor was talking about since it would already fit the end of the joint, and then the screen would be sandwiched between the two pieces of glass



That sounds like another effective method!

I agree though, it would be cool if it wasn't metal

I was thinking last night that I 100% still want to do the all glass bowl. Did some tests just inhaling off the end of the bowl with the heater attached - with and without the screen in the bowl. Could be placebo, but to me the screen added an overall bitter taste and maybe a little harshness.

When inhaling from an empty bowl with the heater attached, the screen tastes and smells like some of my wax pen where concentrates are vaporized directly off a stainless steel coil. What I think happens is when you pull hot air over dried plant material, some of the oil melts down onto the screen and that oil gets polymerized onto the metal mesh.

Taking things back to the old school days of FC, in this thread critical discussion of any and all materials used to construct this vaporizer is encouraged

I do agree the glass bowl would technically taste more pure, but the difficult part is finding a design for the glass bowl that doesn't restrict the airflow/vaporization. Not trying to hate, but the GS glass bowl just was not for me in general (especially compared to funnel with ss screen) the airflow was bad, the hits were not big/potent, and you had to use chunks of flower, since it would fall thru if grinded up.

I totally agree with what an all glass bowl would add, but lets not forget the negatives it brings, until someone discovers a design that performs like a regular bowl with ss screen

Im not downing the idea of the glass bowl, im just suggesting a lot of thought go into the design before trying to produce it. The performance is what has us all here in this thread, and the bowl could effect that if the design isn't good enough.

I feel like the glass bowl would be good for v2 of this vape.

But that's just my opinion!

 

[Vaporooni]

https://sipipes.com/product/glass-carbon-filter-adapter-honeycomb/

These glass screens are built in. Just an idea that might work.

Put the heater around the glass that is laying down filled with quartz terp pearls and the herb in the glass that is standing up.

 

[nonamekevin]

I've not been the biggest fan of basket screens or ELBs. If there is a screen of sorts, nice and flat is how I prefer it for easy stirring.

How about this idea, which is a combination of the screens with the previous idea I mentioned. Once you cut down the 19mm male joint, you will have a little piece left over. This leftover piece could be cut along the same plane, orthogonal to the joint axis, at any increment you desire. Drop whichever piece you want into your joint (piece 1,2,3 from the picture) and then follow that with a flat ss screen. The cut piece will act as a ledge for a flat screen, and the different pieces will allow the user to determine how far away the material is to their heater. If piece 1 goes in, it will allow you the most material in the joint, but the trade off is you might have to turn the PID temps up. If you went with piece 3, you could get away with a lower temp, but you'd be limited to how much herb you placed in.

I think this may warrant some further thought, as this hits your goal of being modular. Bonus points, all glass pieces serve a purpose and are note wasted. Again, I would still use a 18mm-f to 14mm-m, because if you drop a piece (1,2,3) into a joint that you can't easily remove (e.g. directly into a bong downstem) it would be very difficult to remove with damage to something.

 

[invertedisdead]

I do agree the glass bowl would technically taste more pure, but the difficult part is finding a design for the glass bowl that doesn't restrict the airflow/vaporization. Not trying to hate, but the Glass Symphony just was not for me in general (especially compared to funnel with ss screen) the airflow was bad, the hits were not big/potent, and you had to use chunks of flower, since it would fall thru if grinded up.

I totally agree with what an all glass bowl would add, but lets not forget the negatives it brings, until someone discovers a design that performs like a regular bowl with ss screen

Im not downing the idea of the glass bowl, im just suggesting a lot of thought go into the design before trying to produce it. The performance is what has us all here in this thread, and the bowl could effect that if the design isn't good enough.

I feel like the glass bowl would be good for v2 of this vape.

But that's just my opinion!

I definitely appreciate your perspective, @MileHighHuman

I'm going to make sure the regular SS screened bowl is perfect first, but then I'm definitely going to experiment with my glass screen design, it's different from any that have ever been done. It wouldn't be as open as woven metal, but more than any other glass screen. It would be expensive to make, probably more than the whole vape as I've said a few times.

Going in on some low temp, but lung-dense rips of KushWreck at 600F on the PID, that's with the coil that's barely hanging on and still pumping pleasing clouds

My theory is the glass bowl has potential to actually improve extraction over a metal mesh; by forcing hot air directly through the plant material and having to channel that air through a number of restrictions, you're increasing the contact time of hot air with the plant material for greater extraction potential with less air dilution (i.e. deeper lung hits, more actives per draw) IMO the pearls basically do the same thing with air, it's not so much their mass but that they virtually extend the heating path by increasing the contact time the air spends passing through it. IMO this restriction to increase contact time is comparable to carb capping a flowerpot. Yes there is boiling point manipulation from the pressure change caused by the draw restriction but I think there's more to it. Depending on proximity of the load I believe that pressure can also be used to facilitate deeper extraction - think of a garden hose versus a pressure washer. I think this is why some vapes just perform better with more herb, yeah of course there's more actives to extract to begin with, but it also adds a level of restriction where the air is forced through more plant material instead of leaving through a wide open screen empty handed.

Of course you wouldn't want to use too small of a pearl up top with the glass screen bowl because nobody wants too much draw restriction, but I did a lot of experimenting with the empty heater shell simulating some ideas and I do think a certain amount of "healthy" draw restriction could be advantageous, especially for "pressure extraction" - nonpolar solvent gases are under pressure, co2 is pressure, rosin uses pressure - all to assist in the extraction process.

https://sipipes.com/product/glass-carbon-filter-adapter-honeycomb/

These glass screens are built in. Just an idea that might work.

Put the heater around the glass that is laying down filled with quartz terp pearls and the herb in the glass that is standing up.

That was actually where this started was the idea to fill an ashcatcher with beads and attach a coil to it. On page 1 I have some of my vape sketches where you can see at one point this vape was very much an ashcatcher. That drifted for a few reasons -

- I wanted to make the vape as compact as possible, I like to keep a pretty compact vape station and I wanted something that would fit in with my e-nail setup and be powered off the same controller.

- I wanted a way to reduce the airflow and get more of a "carbed banger" effect then just using an open joint. Originally I was going to just use a glass adapter from Ddave's "concentration chamber" and use it to load the female joint of the ash catcher and attach it with a keck clip. That would also function to retain the pearls - I actually have one drawing designed around using one of those glass reducers as the bowl too for 100% all glass path. -But I'm into minimalist design, less is always more, etc. and wanted to simplify that, which is what the current InVerzion vaporizer embodies. That bowl is much more coarse than the all glass bowl I want to build, although now I'm gonna side rant because I do feel deep down the hallmark of a great vape would be for it to extract from unground nug, or as coarse as possible. IMO grinders are too hard on bud and the flavor changes rapidly, probably oxidizes like a cut apple quickly does.

- I knew I wanted a way to fasten the coil after dealing with cracked bangers and it just made more sense at that point for me to come up with a new design if I could simplify things. A previous prototype used a glass "turbine" as a screen to retain the beads which was inspired by the ashcatcher. I liked the all glass design of that but IMO those push indents affected the structural integrity of the part as it cracked right above the indents, it also made the price 50% more expensive due to the time involved to make sure a tiny bead doesn't actually fall through; different than just making an ice pinch or bowl push. I'm not opposed to the price if it means all glass purity, but I don't think that was the ideal design.

I've not been the biggest fan of basket screens or ELBs. If there is a screen of sorts, nice and flat is how I prefer it for easy stirring.

How about this idea, which is a combination of the screens with the previous idea I mentioned. Once you cut down the 19mm male joint, you will have a little piece left over. This leftover piece could be cut along the same plane, orthogonal to the joint axis, at any increment you desire. Drop whichever piece you want into your joint (piece 1,2,3 from the picture) and then follow that with a flat ss screen. The cut piece will act as a ledge for a flat screen, and the different pieces will allow the user to determine how far away the material is to their heater. If piece 1 goes in, it will allow you the most material in the joint, but the trade off is you might have to turn the PID temps up. If you went with piece 3, you could get away with a lower temp, but you'd be limited to how much herb you placed in.

I think this may warrant some further thought, as this hits your goal of being modular. Bonus points, all glass pieces serve a purpose and are note wasted. Again, I would still use a 18mm-f to 14mm-m, because if you drop a piece (1,2,3) into a joint that you can't easily remove (e.g. directly into a bong downstem) it would be very difficult to remove with damage to something.

Very creative dude

I like the sort of Dynavap esque screen positions and using the slope to adjust the bowl size; and I like the idea of having a way to wedge down the screen, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to take the cut-off end of the joint and then cut that down into smaller pieces by hand.

I think if half the joint is cut off, it should be roasting everything even enough to not need much more tinkering. IMO the vape has plenty of power so the distance away from the heat isn't as much of an issue as the way the male joint is concentrating the heat due to the taper.

 

[nonamekevin]

I definitely appreciate your perspective, @MileHighHuman

I'm going to make sure the regular SS screened bowl is perfect first, but then I'm definitely going to experiment with my glass screen design, it's different from any that have ever been done. It wouldn't be as open as woven metal, but more than any other glass screen. It would be expensive to make, probably more than the whole vape as I've said a few times.

Going in on some low temp, but lung-dense rips of KushWreck at 600F on the PID, that's with the coil that's barely hanging on and still pumping pleasing clouds

My theory is the glass bowl has potential to actually improve extraction over a metal mesh; by forcing hot air directly through the plant material and having to channel that air through a number of restrictions, you're increasing the contact time of hot air with the plant material for greater extraction potential with less air dilution (i.e. deeper lung hits, more actives per draw) IMO the pearls basically do the same thing with air, it's not so much their mass but that they virtually extend the heating path by increasing the contact time the air spends passing through it. IMO this restriction to increase contact time is comparable to carb capping a flowerpot. Yes there is boiling point manipulation from the pressure change caused by the draw restriction but I think there's more to it. Depending on proximity of the load I believe that pressure can also be used to facilitate deeper extraction - think of a garden hose versus a pressure washer. I think this is why some vapes just perform better with more herb, yeah of course there's more actives to extract to begin with, but it also adds a level of restriction where the air is forced through more plant material instead of leaving through a wide open screen empty handed.

Of course you wouldn't want to use too small of a pearl up top with the glass screen bowl because nobody wants too much draw restriction, but I did a lot of experimenting with the empty heater shell simulating some ideas and I do think a certain amount of "healthy" draw restriction could be advantageous, especially for "pressure extraction" - nonpolar solvent gases are under pressure, co2 is pressure, rosin uses pressure - all to assist in the extraction process.



That was actually where this started was the idea to fill an ashcatcher with beads and attach a coil to it. On page 1 I have some of my vape sketches where you can see at one point this vape was very much an ashcatcher. That drifted for a few reasons -

- I wanted to make the vape as compact as possible, I like to keep a pretty compact vape station and I wanted something that would fit in with my e-nail setup and be powered off the same controller.

- I wanted a way to reduce the airflow and get more of a "carbed banger" effect then just using an open joint. Originally I was going to just use a glass adapter from Ddave's "concentration chamber" and use it to load the female joint of the ash catcher and attach it with a keck clip. That would also function to retain the pearls - I actually have one drawing designed around using one of those glass reducers as the bowl too for 100% all glass path. -But I'm into minimalist design, less is always more, etc. and wanted to simplify that, which is what the current InVerzion vaporizer embodies. That bowl is much more coarse than the all glass bowl I want to build, although now I'm gonna side rant because I do feel deep down the hallmark of a great vape would be for it to extract from unground nug, or as coarse as possible. IMO grinders are too hard on bud and the flavor changes rapidly, probably oxidizes like a cut apple quickly does.

- I knew I wanted a way to fasten the coil after dealing with cracked bangers and it just made more sense at that point for me to come up with a new design if I could simplify things. A previous prototype used a glass "turbine" as a screen to retain the beads which was inspired by the ashcatcher. I liked the all glass design of that but IMO those push indents affected the structural integrity of the part as it cracked right above the indents, it also made the price 50% more expensive due to the time involved to make sure a tiny bead doesn't actually fall through; different than just making an ice pinch or bowl push. I'm not opposed to the price if it means all glass purity, but I don't think that was the ideal design.



Very creative dude

I like the sort of Dynavap esque screen positions and using the slope to adjust the bowl size; and I like the idea of having a way to wedge down the screen, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to take the cut-off end of the joint and then cut that down into smaller pieces by hand.

I think if half the joint is cut off, it should be roasting everything even enough to not need much more tinkering. IMO the vape has plenty of power so the distance away from the heat isn't as much of an issue as the way the male joint is concentrating the heat due to the taper.

You are right my friend, once you cut off the end of the joint, additional cuts would be more difficult. A dremel diamond cutoff wheel is 0.6m thick, so with a good method to clamp the piece down, you could take several cuts. Two cuts on a 11mm glass joint would leave you with 9.8mm left of joints over three pieces, or 3.2mm depth per piece. Not a lot, so maybe one cut would be better.

You already mentioned, the heater has plenty of power, so all the talk about the bowl doesn't really play a part unless the goal is to drop temps down further.

 

[bizwaxzion]

What if you were to reverse the gender on the heater and use a male to male adapter as the bowl?

 

[invertedisdead]

You already mentioned, the heater has plenty of power, so all the talk about the bowl doesn't really play a part unless the goal is to drop temps down further.

I want to get another 20mm prototype and configure it the same as my current setup and see where the controller temps end up at. The numbers are kinda arbitrary, but I feel like it at least proves the efficiency of the heater design. Many vaporizers on the market are so inefficient they have to heat to well over a thousand degrees with glowing hot heaters to make convection vapor. If this vape makes great vapor in the 500-600F range on the controller - and that's the coil temperature, so that should be the hottest part of the whole vape, then I'll feel pretty stoked/stoned

What if you were to reverse the gender on the heater and use a male to male adapter as the bowl?

I have considered that, would have to adjust the design a bit as the 20mm coil doesn't fit over the female joint, but it could be done - I just wonder if the load would be too close to the heater in that configuration like some stem based convection portables.



Damn... Earthquake just hit SoCal right now, surprised the shit out of me, thought I was really high for a second...






(...I probably was)

 

[Dubmonkey]

I have considered that, would have to adjust the design a bit as the 20mm coil doesn't fit over the female joint, but it could be done - I just wonder if the load would be too close to the heater in that configuration like some stem based convection portables.

I think you could turn down the heat if the bowl was closer maybe ?

 

[Stu]

Damn... Earthquake just hit SoCal right now, surprised the shit out of me, thought I was really high for a second...

I didn't feel anything here, so I'm pretty sure you're just really high.

 

[invertedisdead]

I think you could turn down the heat if the bowl was closer maybe ?

Probably; but I like how the female jointed bowl looks and feels more like a traditional pipe bowl.

I didn't feel anything here, so I'm pretty sure you're just really high.

It was like a 4.6 but I never, ever feel them so it tripped me out

It is Friday though...



... I'm social distancing my vape hits 6 minutes apart

 

[Sick Vape]

Female on top has something to it.

 

[Vaporooni]

Screen type, Glass or steel.

 

[nonamekevin]

Screen type, Glass or steel.

That one pictured is the steel screen version.

 

[invertedisdead]

Been doing a lot of reading and vapor geeking; found this pretty interesting.


"An electronic cigarette can be used to simulate and substitute for tobacco smoking. However, electronic cigarettes can create aerosol particles in a size range too small to gravitationally settle in the alveoli of the deep lung. As a result, little or no nicotine delivered by an electronic cigarette can enter the circulatory system. Some nicotine delivered by an electronic cigarette can be slowly absorbed through the gastrointestinal (GI) tract and the buccal tissues of mouth and throat. The pharmacokinetics of nicotine delivered via electronic cigarettes can be much slower than the pharmacokinetics of nicotine delivered by smoked cigarettes; as such, electronic cigarettes can be ineffective in treating acute nicotine cravings."

"The aerosol generating devices provided herein can generate aerosol particles with sizes optimal for deep lung delivery by controlling the linear flow rate for a carrier gas (e.g., air) over a heater element within a device provided herein, wherein a substrate (e.g., liquid nicotine solution) is vaporized upon delivery to or onto the heater element. The linear flow rate for a carrier gas (e.g., air) over the heater upon vaporization of the substrate (e.g., liquid nicotine solution) affects the particle size of the aerosol particles produced by vapor condensation, with more rapid flow rates dilute the vapor such that it condenses into smaller particles. In other words the particle size distribution of the aerosol can be determined by the concentration of the substrate vapor during condensation. This vapor concentration can, in turn, be determined by the extent to which flow of carrier gas (e.g., air) over the surface of the heater element dilutes the vaporized substrate (e.g. liquid nicotine solution). To achieve smaller or larger particles, the flow rate of a carrier gas (e.g., air) through an aerosol generation region of the device comprising the heater element can be altered by (i) modifying (increase or decrease) flow rate through the use of a valve, and/or (ii) modifying the cross-sectional area of the region of the device comprising the heater element (e.g., aerosol generation region) to increase or decrease linear carrier gas (e.g., air) velocity for a given volumetric flow rate."

This is what adjusting the pearl size does, it modifies the flow rate.